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Just for curiosity's sake, how willing are VAG and dealers to assist in pairing parts that can work together, but may not have shipped together in this market or anywhere? For example, I was recently reading the build log of someone who took a 323i sedan and swapped in the engine, SMG, and ECU from a M3 of the same generation to build the E46 M3 sedan that BMW never bothered to. He was able to take the car to his local BMW dealer and have them flip the necessary software switches in the ECU to have it acknowledge it was now in a sedan and should look for the modules found in a sedan without trouble, even though that particular engine+body combination never officially existed. I've heard enough about various part swaps with other VWs and Audis from my GTI-owning friend to assume VAG does something similar with their computers, so that got me thinking. If someone had the money, could they pick up an A6 Avant, trans/AWD from a S6, and import the twin-turbo V10, put it all together, haul it to the dealer (or even hook up to a VAG-COM system maybe?) for programming, and drive out with what is effectively a RS6 Avant (ignoring the other more minor differences for sake of not listing them)? Obviously this is hypothetical and would require a lot of time/money, but it's the VAG car I lust over most so it was the first to come to mind. I'm sure some less extreme combos could be thought of, maybe GTI chassis with the TDI motor to give us the GTD model the Europeans get. wolrah fucked around with this message at 23:43 on May 10, 2010 |
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May 10, 2010 23:41
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Blocko posted:Also, got a link for that build log? I'd like to read it. I was reading it on a friend's computer, so I can't find some of the various forum threads related to the build, but the guy's main site is here: http://e46.mit.edu/ It's a great read.
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May 11, 2010 00:37
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Have you heard of clunking noises from the front of Mk5 GTIs when turning? My roommate's car started doing that recently and he mentioned it when bringing it in to have another rear wing put on (seems like a design flaw when two in a row get moisture in the 3rd brake light. From what the dealer's told him, it's due to some subframe bolts having excessive play even when tightened properly and they've installed some shims to clean up the slop. Apparently Mk6s are either shipping shimmed from the factory or with slightly modified parts, he wasn't clear on that. Do you have any details you can share? I'm curious exactly what parts were shifting around. The symptoms were two light clunks while steering which would recur when you steered back the other direction.
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Jun 4, 2010 01:15
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Will do when he gets the car back. Apparently the wing was on backorder, it came in yesterday, and they screwed up and painted it red (his car is the nifty looking but I bet hell to repair scratches on metallic black) so a new one is expected to arrive tomorrow and he'll have the car back Monday.
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Jun 4, 2010 03:50
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my1999gsr posted:We have a customer that refuses to have this problem fixed on his Golf for the exact same reason. It's a common unfixed item. A friend of mine had a Mk3 Golf he left like that also for the same reason. It was a lot of fun.
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Jun 5, 2010 23:11
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my1999gsr posted:It's becoming common in all the Mk5 Golf/Rabbit/GTI. The first one I had drove me crazy trying to figure it out but it turned out to be the right upper strut bearing. When the bearing starts to seize up it makes a clunking noise when you turn the wheels past a certain point. After that first one, I've done 3 or 4 for the same complaint. There IS a TSB about one of the lower engine mounts having poor bolts that are replaced under warranty, but it didn't fix any of the clunking during turning. FYI on this one, it ended up being in the subframe. He got the full paperwork in the mail today and it listed them first checking torque on all suspension bolts with no change, then installing four subframe bushings after which the problem went away. I can confirm that the problem is solved for now, though I'm now trying to figure out where exactly in the subframe the problematic bushings were. On another topic related to the same car, I helped him install a dogbone bushing insert the other day and found it to be surprisingly beneficial given the simple installation and low price. It causes a lot more vibration on startup and when in reverse, but the wheelhop on hard launches is gone.
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Jun 17, 2010 23:44
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King-Kong posted:Is it just me or does this last photo really look like a rendering from a video game? That car is in amazingly good condition, it just looks so shiny.
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Jun 26, 2010 03:39
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The tricky thing with USB-Serial adapters is voltage. USB provides 5 volts, RS232 serial is 12 volts. A lot of adapters just use the RS232 protocol at 5 volts rather than including the hardware to step up the voltage, resulting in the equipment at the other end not listening to the signals. It's always a crapshoot as to whether a given adapter will work with a piece of hardware, your best bet is to look for user experiences and get exact models.
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Aug 25, 2010 14:39
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Losing both the alternator and power steering at the same time is 100% certainly a belt snapping. It's probably completely unrelated to your other problem. I don't know how the Jetta's belts are laid out, but on many vehicles if you lose the belt with the PS and alt you've also lost the water pump, so do not drive the vehicle until you replace the belt unless you're absolutely certain the water pump is still being driven. Overheating will become very expensive very fast. e: If you're lucky the belt's just old and worn. If not, one of the devices driven by the belt is frozen up or putting a lot more drag on the belt than intended and will also need to be repaired or replaced. I know on E36 and E46 BMWs the most common cause of losing the alt/PS/water pump belt is the water pump deciding to commit suicide, in which case one has only seconds to get the car off the road and shut down to avoid major engine damage. wolrah fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Sep 17, 2010 |
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Sep 17, 2010 15:10
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Update.... Bearing in the pulley tensioner went bad. Parts and labor $432.00 and they should be done in a couple of hours. Parts are probably a fraction of that, no more than $100 unless VW managed to invent some strange unobtainium tensioner design, but doing belts on a FWD (particularly a 6 cylinder) tends to involve cramped areas and sometimes undoing engine mounts, so most of that cost will be labor. The cost sounds reasonable to me.
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Sep 17, 2010 21:24
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Autism Sundae posted:Anyone? CEL and battery lights being on at that point is pretty standard for every car I've ever driven (since the engine is not running and the alternator is not charging the battery). EPC seems to be a limp-home mode indicator and would typically be associated with the CEL, so I'd bet that's normal, and as for the airbag light as long as it's not on when the engine's running it's not a big deal.
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Oct 9, 2010 02:17
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primitive posted:clutch dumps or 1 -> 2 shifts? seems like 1 -> 2 at 5k RPM shouldn't be that stressful... Yea, I was going to say the same thing. I tend to run through at least 3/4 of the rev range or so in first no matter what I'm driving or how hard I'm driving it, which in anything with a 6000+ redline means I'm right there, so the idea of a few 5000 RPM 1-2 shifts voiding a warranty seems absurd. 5000 RPM clutch drop launches, sure, but 1-2 in an S4 any time you're driving it remotely hard should be there or higher. Hell, especially an S car, since they're intended to be driven harder. e: speaking of shifting, is it normal for a DSG to seem to hesitate a bit before it decides to shift at WOT? My roommate has let me drive his GTI on the local drag strip a few times and it seems when I stick it in "S" and just go for a launch control point-and-shoot drag race it'll get just short of redline, back off the throttle slightly, then shift and go on like normal. If I run it in manual mode or just flip the paddle it'll shift instantly when asked, but the S program seems to hold the gear for a bit before upshifting. I can consistently get 2-3 tenths better ETs just by shifting manually at the exact same RPM. e2: vvv I should note this car has APR Stage 1, though that should not affect the DSG program to my knowledge. wolrah fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Oct 11, 2010 |
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Oct 11, 2010 17:45
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teh jhey posted:My first ever CEL It's a valve in the intake manifold that lets the ECU change the intake geometry under different conditions to provide optimum power. There should be no harm from driving it like that, just reduced power somewhere in the rev range. minivanmegafun posted:If it's the same iPod adapter they've been using since '08, it's not iPhone Compatible anyhow. It won't charge your phone, even if it will play music off of it. It'd be pretty silly for them to still be selling cars with firewire charging only, since no iPhone from the 3G on out plus none of the new iPods would be charge compatible. That said, if for some reason they are that stupid there are dirt cheap adapters which sit in between the iDevice and the car which move the power over to the USB pins on the dock where the new devices expect it. Most aftermarket adapters have new cables available which fix it as well, so I wouldn't be surprised to find older VW cables can be replaced to update compatibility. e: Something like this, though I'm pretty sure you can get them cheaper and smaller. A friend gave me one to get my iPhone 3G charging off my DICE HD adapter and it works great. wolrah fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Oct 19, 2010 |
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Oct 19, 2010 17:43
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Neon Machete posted:Also, which piston is up (firing) at TDC in the 2.7T? I've heard it's 3, and it's not actually totally completely up at TDC. Is this right, cause it sounds weird to me... TDC means top dead center, which could apply to any piston and just means the piston is as far away from the crank as it gets (and obviously on the compression stroke in a four stroke engine). In the context of timing TDC almost always refers to the #1 cylinder.
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Oct 28, 2010 06:52
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McDeth posted:One thing right off the bat that is sort of annoying (and I am going to take the car in to the dealership this Thursday to have them take a look at it) is that for FM Stations that also have an HD signal, the MMI system switches back and forth between the FM and HD sources and causes an annoying echo every 10-20 seconds. It doesn't happen for any other audio sources and I can see the signal switch from 89.9 to 89.9 HD every time it echos. I had that a lot when I first got my HD Radio setup. It's actually a problem with the station's broadcast. They're supposed to delay the analog signal so it matches up with the HD signal, but sometimes this is not set up properly. When it's all working right you'll notice it fading between HD and analog signals, but the timing will be matched up. It's nothing in your car and there's nothing your dealer can do about it. Your station of choice just needs their staff to actually test the HD signal.
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Jan 19, 2011 18:49
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veedubfreak posted:Here's one thing to sway you, the 08 r32 came ONLY in automatic, and thus was tragic. The new Golf R comes ONLY in 6 speed manual, and will have 260 hp vs the 200 of the 08 R32. The automatic was a DSG though, calling it "tragic" implies you're thinking of it as a slushbox, and it was 250 HP, not 200. The GTI is around 200 HP. I don't know why they aren't offering the R in DSG form in the US. Just like with the MkV R32 they offer it with both everywhere else, they just decided to switch the US offering for some reason.
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May 6, 2011 22:40
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Timmy Cruise posted:Has anyone had luck with logging boost via the inlet pressure sensor on Torque? I have not found a PID that works. Car in question is a 2000 A4 1.8T. As far as I've found you can only get that via OBD2 on the TDIs. No idea what may be exposed via VAG-COM though.
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Jun 23, 2011 06:07
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I was just skimming the press release on the US market Golf R and something stood out to me:quote:The Golf R is fitted with the most powerful Golf production engine ever seen in the U.S. The car uses an updated version of the EA113 2.0-liter turbocharged inline four-cylinder engine, rather than the EA888 engine used in the current GTI. If I'm not mistaken, as far as US models are concerned the EA113 is the one commonly referred to as the "2.0 FSI" and the EA888 is the "2.0 TSI" seen in the late Mk5 and up GTIs. Everything I had heard about these seemed to be in favor of the newer one, particularly due to the use of a timing chain rather than a belt. Can anyone tell me why they'd want to use an older, apparently worse engine as the basis for their new performance model? Is it just that they never bothered to update the S3 variant when the normal model was changed? edit: And no mention of the magnetic shocks? I thought that was confirmed as coming standard on US models...wtf? wolrah fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Oct 5, 2011 |
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Oct 5, 2011 19:51
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Bovril Delight posted:And those people will regret buying it when the Mk8 comes out. There is always going to be something "better" right around the corner. Except in this case, a late Mk5 is the same car mechanically as a Mk6. It even has more standard features, at least in the GTI (HIDs are optional on Mk6, were standard on Mk5, among other things). The facelift is a subjective thing (personally I like the new tail lights, but prefer the Mk5 from the front) so the only objective advantage I'm aware of to the Mk6 is the updated "XDS" traction control software. As I see it, knowing that Mk7 is bringing significant changes, why buy the new one that's soon to be the old one when you can just buy the current old one and get practically the same exact car but with the discount of having the older body style? Unless you have to have a new car, buying a late Mk5 with an extended warranty seems to make a lot more sense than buying a Mk6 right now. wolrah fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Mar 19, 2012 |
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Mar 19, 2012 18:28
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Residency Evil posted:I've heard that ECU tuned GTIs run through clutches significantly more quickly. Is that true? I may be wrong, but to my knowledge unless you're exceeding the power handling capacity of the clutch the same driving in an otherwise same vehicle should produce the same wear. I'd imagine though that an ECU tuned vehicle is much more likely to be driven hard and particularly launched hard, resulting in increased wear.
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Apr 9, 2012 03:50
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krooj posted:Not disagreeing with you, but I tend to think that your typical VW buyer is willing to pay slightly more if they feel the quality is there. The sales of the cheapened Jetta seem to disagree, unfortunately.
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Apr 20, 2012 15:49
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Residency Evil posted:The mk5 Jetta is a great car, but I had no idea that the 6th gen Jetta was even available in Europe. Is the interior better than it is here? The US GLI is supposedly a lot closer to representative of the RoW version. Proper rear suspension, better interior materials, proper trunk hinge, etc.
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Apr 20, 2012 22:34
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