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Holy crap Slung Blade, I'm sooooo jealous of the awesome iron at that show. You are so lucky. If its at all possible Id like to see more pictures of that chain-drive IH, especially the engine.
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Aug 7, 2010 06:37
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Pipkin posted:Holy crap Slung Blade, I'm sooooo jealous of the awesome iron at that show. You are so lucky. If its at all possible Id like to see more pictures of that chain-drive IH, especially the engine. I'll see what I can do. 
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Aug 7, 2010 06:59
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Anything awesomely complicated will do for me, I love seeing how old machinery did so much with only one power source. Everything is just linked together mechanically with clutches. How was shifting etc. done on that 3tractor? edit: I too am awesomely jealous.
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Aug 7, 2010 09:44
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Slung Blade posted:Today was the annual show at Pioneer Acres. I was attending as one of the blacksmiths, but I was able to sneak away for a bit to snap some pictures. Jesus fuckin poo poo, I was born too late. But I don't think I'm nearly man enough to drive that poo poo. gently caress, why am I such a fuckin pussy? quote:They even run. This was an awesome sight, using a little tractor to start a bigger one. Reminds me of the guys that say poo poo like "hurr we use your goddam four bangers for starter motors". quote:Pony with cool attachments. This is as awesome as the giant circular saw blade of death on wheels that pipkin's grandfather owned. Once again I think that no one in this forum, especially me is man enough to use something like that quote:I have no idea what this is, but it is ratty as gently caress. Possibly some sort of old school drilling support truck, those things on the back of the truck are Tri-cone bits used in the oil and gas drilling industry.
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Aug 8, 2010 03:32
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Best I could do Pipkin, sorry man.  I took a look into some of the buildings today.  I think this one was made by Renault.     Holy crap a 4x4.    An ancient Leyland, in western Canada? Whoa.   Another military truck.  1905 Cadillac.    Oooh, a Willys.  Another Willys!  drat, I didn't know Studebaker even made trucks.     Sweet old Fargo.     How... homoerotic.   Horseplowing!  
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Aug 8, 2010 03:48
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scapulataf posted:This is as awesome as the giant circular saw blade of death on wheels that pipkin's grandfather owned. Once again I think that no one in this forum, especially me is man enough to use something like that The big blade drops down and you use it to cut hay/grass. They're actually pretty common even today. Lots of farmer types still use them. The drilling bits were only there for weight, there were a couple other rustheaps with solid wheels that had more bits strapped to the back. Keep in mind there were no shock absorbers, and zero give in the tires, so there would be almost no traction unloaded, especially on the old tires.
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Aug 8, 2010 03:52
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Went to a car show tonight - dude, I didn't know Studebaker made a truck either, but it looked sweet! Me and my friend Donnie saw a bunch of sweet cars. I saw a '67 Mustang, there were like 5 or 6 Bel Air's of different years, the latest being a '66, a bunch of other stuff. There was a Willys, an old IH truck, saw a nice AMC Javelin, a '56 Jag - all kinds of kick-rear end poo poo. I love old cars!
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Aug 8, 2010 04:10
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Slung Blade posted:Today was the annual show at Pioneer Acres. I was attending as one of the blacksmiths, but I was able to sneak away for a bit to snap some pictures. Oh god there is a lot of cool poo poo at that show. I have always loved the Rumley Oil Pulls for some reason, that and the old chain drive Macks seem so  . Thats one of the best gathering of old equipment I have ever seen, and thats coming from someone who has been attending New England antique power shows for the past 20 years. Thanks for the awesome pics.
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Aug 11, 2010 07:01
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I believe this video belongs in this thread: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBBiSzV8YEM
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Aug 11, 2010 16:40
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This flying lawnmower should be here too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_3vLmm5tC8
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Aug 11, 2010 19:58
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I've got a few issues with my new (to me) lawnmower (and I hope this is the right place to ask for help). Click here for the full 800x600 image. The throttle/valve (center of the picture, throttle cable is fully off and the valve is almost fully open) doesn't return to fully closed on its own, so once I start the mower it's going balls to the wall until I shut it off myself. What do I need to do to fix it? I'm thinking I need to find a spring that will force it closed, but trying to find one strong enough that isn't too strong is probably going to take a while. And when it is running it appears to vibrate a fair bit. What should I try adjust to help balance it?
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Aug 17, 2010 01:18
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My phone more or less fails at in phone YouTube posting. Look what happens when you mow in the rain!
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Aug 17, 2010 02:08
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Skyssx posted:My phone more or less fails at in phone YouTube posting. Water is heavier than gas, so that's more like 10-20% water by volume.
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Aug 17, 2010 18:44
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oxbrain posted:Water is heavier than gas, so that's more like 10-20% water by volume. ~90% by molar mass. Regardless, it's still 100% hosed.
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Aug 17, 2010 18:53
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Ephphatha posted:The throttle/valve (center of the picture, throttle cable is fully off and the valve is almost fully open) doesn't return to fully closed on its own, so once I start the mower it's going balls to the wall until I shut it off myself. What do I need to do to fix it? Recently fixed this exact problem for my dad. Credit goes to Parker ball pen springs.
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Aug 17, 2010 19:11
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Blaster of Justice posted:Recently fixed this exact problem for my dad. Credit goes to Parker ball pen springs. I got a few springs and dicked around for about half an hour today, but I can't find anywhere that looks suitable to attach it to pull the valve shut. The only two spots I can think of fixing it are back toward the throttle cable, or there's a flat plate that comes down at an angle from the ripcord. Both would require some string or wire to give the spring enough length. I haven't been able to take the cover off yet, but is it likely that theres a point on the inside of the cover that a spring would be attached to?
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Aug 29, 2010 14:20
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I have this Craftsman lawn mower that is about ten years old. It starts up easily, runs like a champ. The self-propelled feature doesn't work quite right. If I pull the lever to activate the SP feature the lawn mower will go and then after some random interval of time it will stop propelling itself. If I pull harder on the lever it starts going again. If I pull on the lever all the time it works just like it is supposed to. Does this mean the cable is stretched out and needs replacement? If that's all it is I will fix it.
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Sep 7, 2010 23:37
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PBCrunch posted:I have this Craftsman lawn mower that is about ten years old. It starts up easily, runs like a champ. The self-propelled feature doesn't work quite right. Crapsman mowers are all very simple in the drive section. When you pull the bail, it rotates the transaxle about its axis, pulling the drive pulley into the belt. If your belt was worn away, it would cause the symptoms you describe. Neither belts or cables stretch. Lawn mower belts are made with a band of Kevlar along their back (not stretchy at all) and braided steel cables don't elongate either. Cable housings do compress, and belts do wear, increasing their effective length, both causing the illusion of stretch. If your belt is 10 years old, it is very likely rubber band width at this point with chunks missing. Other stuff to look out for; the pinions on the end of the drive shaft are large, made of steel and are clutched through a fragile washer. The large steel pinions engage the inside of the wheel and mesh with teeth molded from the same plastic as the wheel itself. As you can imagine, this results in a lot of ground up wheels. Luckily they're like  from https://www.searspartsdirect.com Coincidentally, you can view full sized exploded diagrams and IPLs at that site with just your model number.I recommend just taking off whatever piece of plastic covers up the belt and transmission. If the failure isn't immediately obvious, pull the wheels off and compare the washer stack behind the pinions to SPD.
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Sep 8, 2010 01:26
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I am debating between a Stihl MS-290 and the Husky 450, both are similarly priced. It would be used for maintenance around the property (5.5 acres). Trees are not real thick, it is very dense woods that don't seem to allow them to grow very thick. Which would be the best option here, or are those two choices overkill?
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Sep 10, 2010 16:06
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I can't speak to the Husqvarna, but the 290 is right about what you need. Stihl's product line isn't linear, a bigger number doesn't mean it's a better saw. The handles are color coded to give you an idea what you're getting. Black - Homeowner Orange/Black - Low midrange White - High midrange White/Black - Pro or Semi-Pro The MS 290 is in a value/power slot. It's heavy as hell and a very old design. It does have horsepower to swing a 20" bar, but a lot of the features are just "ancient". Other than the weight, my particular sticking point with the 029/290 is the control lever design being weak. On the old 029, you would see them pop out at the slightest provocation. The 290 addressed this issue by having a finger on the air filter cover hold the MCL in more securely. At some point, the MCL is still going to quit staying in place. You can fix it in 10 seconds with a stick or screwdriver, but the more it happens, the more it *will* happen. When the MCL pops out, you won't be able to shut the saw off, or start it if it's cold. Almost all of the homeowner/midrange saws have a configuration like this. The MCLs on the MS 270/280 and 311/391/362 are of a different and MUCH more robust design. The 270/280 are expensive, light weight and the techiest saws in the line up. The 280 has a microprocessor controlled carburetor with a magnetically controlled fuel metering valve that can open and close up to 33 times a second. This allows it to adjust fuel ratio automatically for restricted air flow or fuel flow. The 270/280 can swing up to a 20" bar, but their soft anti-vibe system will let you know it's there. Very comfortable saws to use. The 311/391/362 are brand new this spring. They use stratified scavenging technology to reduce emissions and allow increased horsepower. The 311/391 are high power midrange and not out of the question for use on 5.5 acres. The 362 shares some design features with the other two but is a full pro saw. It's the kind of saw you could easily expect to keep for 25-30 years for home use. You can attach a 25" bar to these saws. Don't get a 250 or lower, you'll want more saw. The exception being the 192 and 200, which are both pro saws for either in-tree or on the ground limbing. e: Just to add, at least 50% of the 290s I see come across my desk have people who know nothing about outdoor power equipment using them. Run on straight gas, run with the chain brake on, bar oil in the gas tank/gas in the bar oil tank, cut into dirt repeatedly, loaned out to friends and had barns dropped on them... you name it. Skyssx fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Sep 10, 2010 |
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Sep 10, 2010 19:54
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No worries about running the saw, I am used to two stroke MX engines and what they require. Looks like the 290 is going to be the go to saw. Thanks!
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Sep 10, 2010 20:24
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mAlfunkti0n posted:No worries about running the saw, I am used to two stroke MX engines and what they require. Looks like the 290 is going to be the go to saw. Thanks! At least check out the 311. It's only $100 more and has a lot more to it.
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Sep 11, 2010 03:10
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I know we've got a couple small engine guys here, so I'll toss this out there. My folks have a couple of lawnmowers - they're a fairly unique design that was invented and patented by a guy who's shop is not too far from where they live. The mower in discussion is powered by an 18HP Briggs Vanguard motor (they have a newer one with a 21HP Vanguard). I helped my Dad mow on Saturday and when we were done, he stopped his mower to clean it off and it would not restart. The motor acts like it's seized up - he can turn the shaft with a pair of pliers but it's difficult (on the working mower, the shaft is easily turned by hand). Battery tests good and there's plenty of oil in it. Is that a pretty safe assumption? Looks like I can buy another 18HP Vanguard from Amazon for about $1200 (or upgrade to the 23HP for $300 more). It looks fairly straightforward to replace it, the worst part will be pulling the motor out of the mower.
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Sep 20, 2010 00:35
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Is that with the plugs in? Any accessories attached? https://www.smallenginewarehouse.com Could be one of the magnets came off the inside of the flywheel and is jammed against the stator.
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Sep 20, 2010 01:12
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I did some mowing yesterday with the lovely Tecumseh I got in exchange for fixing a notebook. Unbelievable piece of poo poo. Recently I welded up the back flap, and found evidence it had been welded elsewhere. I finally managed to get the height adjuster working after a lot of prying with a big fuckoff screwdriver. I need to soak its foam air filter with something flammable, which it runs off like a primitive atomiser setup for the first few minutes. It blew the air filter cover off today by pushing the foam filter out for the crankcase. I think more exhaust comes out via blowby than from the exhaust. Every so often it bogs right down and makes an awful grinding noise, accompanied by more smoke than normal coming out of the crankcase. Sometimes it recovers, sometimes it doesn't. It's not an easy start but it is easy to start because it has no compression. I had to fix a sagging and bent rear wheel recently. I just grabbed it and bent. Such soft metal. Unfortunately while I was doing this, a fair bit of oil ran out from somewhere on the crankcase. Somehow that giant turd of a mower still runs. A couple of odd things about it are that it is 4 stroke but has a primer bulb. It also has an oil pump. While I'm here, does anybody know of a flat twin based push mower? I used one a few times when I was much younger. It was a 2 stroke I think. Thing tried to kill me once. It ground to a halt. Seemed like something got caught up in the blades. Must have been at least a minute before I decided to tip it up to have a look. As soon as I tipped it up it burst to life, flat out! Wasn't expecting that.
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Sep 20, 2010 01:50
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No one makes opposed cylinder engines of any stripe any more. They couldn't meet EPA regulations. The old Lawn Boy two cycles looked like an O-2, but were just a single cylinder with a shroud that mirrored the piston and had the gas tank in it. Notorious for chopping fingers off, too.
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Sep 20, 2010 07:38
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Stumbled across partial IPLs for what are probably next spring's new saws. Series 1141, the MS 271 and MS 291. No idea if they'll continue the 1133 saws (270, 280), but the 290 is probably going to be replaced at long last.
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Sep 21, 2010 00:06
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Skyssx posted:Is that with the plugs in? Any accessories attached? Haven't pulled the plugs, the belt that powers the mower is attached, but like I said we've got an identical (except for a 21hp motor) mower that we can easily turn over by rotating the pulley on the main shaft by hand. My Dad called up the guy who makes the mower yesterday to give him a rundown of what's going on and see what it'd cost to put in a new engine if we need it. He seemed to think it might be the starter, so we'll start there. Probably won't get to it for the next week or so since we're taking out the crops now. Have you delt with that Small Engine Warehouse before? Are they reputable? Prices sure seem good.
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Sep 21, 2010 11:39
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The shop I work at orders from them occasionally. We just replace a guy's pressure washer pump with an AR model from that site. Usually, we get our engines through one of our distributors, though, so I wouldn't say there's more than a casual relationship. I need one of their repower kits. They offer a 23hp BV and they used to offer a Honda GX670. I am still bugging them to put their kit on a new GX690 before I buy. It's bolt compatible with the 670, so if they made one fit... Call them on the phone, they're hit and miss with returning e-mails.
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Sep 21, 2010 12:43
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Well, it rained today, so no combining (although if I hadn't at work all day I probably could have convinced Dad to get out there). Dad decided to take a stab at fixing the mower since he had a spare starter laying around. Turns out that was it and he got it running again. Replacement starter sure beats a $1200 engine.
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Sep 22, 2010 22:28
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Slung Blade posted:Today was the annual show at Pioneer Acres. I was attending as one of the blacksmiths, but I was able to sneak away for a bit to snap some pictures. Holy poo poo, thanks for that. These two have color schemes that I think wold work awesome on a rat/hot rod of some sort:   Also this truck is pimp as all gently caress: Also the noses of those old trucks remind me of stylized cartoon duck beaks. 
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Sep 23, 2010 01:03
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Boat posted:Holy poo poo, thanks for that. You're most welcome, I'm glad you liked them. And gently caress yeah, that diamond T was incredibly cool. So my mom's uncle apparently had a hand in that Linn halftrack. He's got some friends or used to work for an industrial tractor shop a while back. He sent me this picture:  #1, I've never seen a tractor like this before, #2, holy poo poo, I think those gears above the tracks are the differential, #3 god drat that engine is fuckin huge.
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Sep 27, 2010 02:47
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Forgive me for bringing back an old post, but I was a good goon and skimmed through the thread looking for things on riding mowers here instead of starting a new thread - When I stumbled upon this awesome mix of sarcasm/fact.Skyssx posted:Work today presented me with a perfect opportunity to show you how a top tier lawn tractor is constructed. Some sort of new Cub Cadet 1000 series, belt drive, single cylinder. It is getting a new short block because there was a 1" hole in the side of the block. My problem is I'm trying to gauge how heavy the sarcasm really was and not really succeeding. Short short version - before glancing through this thread I'm in active search of a riding mower. Property is 2.5 acres (of which between 1.5-2 is actively mowed), lots of roots sticking up, and crazy undulations for a largely flat piece of land. It boils down to nasty obstacles. My short list was down to the Cub's entry level (1000 series with a CVT?!?!), or a JD - but a friend warned of the JD hydro-tranny blowing up after xxx hours and being an $800 replacement - so that made me gun-shy. I'm trying to do a little more research before pulling the trigger, so here I am. Either, I need a clarification on the quality of the cub above - or some really solid used options that can be had for under $1500. The catch - No truck, and no trailer (They're on the wish list for later - like a year or two), though I can probably borrow one for a single time use kind of thing. Suggestions?
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Sep 28, 2010 00:26
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Fully assembled you can grab any lawn tractor by the front and lift it up until its sitting on its back. If you lack a lift or a jack, it's the easiest way to gain access to the blades. There's just nothing there.
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You could probably pick up a used Toro Timecutter ZTR for that price range. If you have a lot of obstacles on your property then a zero-turn will make life a hell of a lot easier. I don't really have a lot of experience with their homeowner grade but I've logged a lot of hours on a 36" Toro Proline with no hangups. As for Deere, I've logged 60-70+ hours on a 455 lawn tractor this year, the only problem being a fuse that blew out and was easily replaced by the headlight fuse as a temp-fix. It has has a suspension so taking turns quickly can result in scalping or cause the anti-scalp wheels to dig into the turf if you're not careful. It is probably well out of your price range, though. Never heard about problems with the hydros blowing out, and the ones on the mower I use seem to be holding up quite well with hundreds of hours on them. They may be different than the ones on smaller or homeowner grade models though. One thing that is a pain in the rear end with the Deere: you have to have the go pedal down all the way to engage the PTO, and you can't engage it in reverse. If you don't need tractor capabilities, a zero-turn might be your best bet. The big Husqvarna ZTR I use (MSRP is like $9,000) has a 61" deck and is rated from the manufacturer for over 4 acres per hour as far as productivity is concerned. On a given property, I can shave 15-30 minutes off my mowing time with the ZTR versus the tractor because I can mow in any direction including reverse. I can also move around objects faster. There is also a lot of time spent turning around on a tractor, you have to do a 3 point turn, which involves killing the blade. On the Z, I can just make a pass, bust a 180 and make another pass etc. It saves on trimming a lot, once you get good with one you can fit into some TIGHT spaces. My helper really only has to trim 3 or 4" out from trees and stuff, since I can swing the edge of the deck right up to the object. They're also really fun, so if you can help it, find a zero-turn As for the cub, it looks like a cheap piece of junk honestly. My view might be a bit skewed though, since I log more time on a mower in a month than a lot of people do all year so we use some heavy duty stuff. It might be perfectly fine for a homeowner. DELETED fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Sep 28, 2010 |
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Sep 28, 2010 02:41
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ssjonizuka posted:My problem is I'm trying to gauge how heavy the sarcasm really was and not really succeeding. I wasn't being too sarcastic. My point was that manufacturers find one little thing they can tout that makes it seem like their product is durable, but really means nothing. Lawn tractors of the past decade can't stand up to hitting anything. How far are your roots sticking up? Can you mow at four inches right now without hitting stuff? If the answer is no, then don't get a residential mower. The Cub 1040 has a CVT type drive. The drive belt goes to a jackshaft, which runs another belt into the actual F/N/R transmission. The input pulley to the transmission is made of two conical discs that move in and out to change the diameter in a CVT like fashion. It's all outside the transmission, though. The 1042 and up have a hydrostatic unit. I wouldn't worry about the drive going out on a Cub. They're fine until you weld on a plate that accepts a 1 7/8" ball hitch and you tow around 3000 pounds in a utility trailer. The deck and engines on any LT are where you're really losing out. Modern value engines are made without bearings. Just aluminum on steel with oil injected between. They are all made to produce a large HP number for the sticker on top, and that's it. The pistons have gently caress all skirt to prevent slap and there's only an oil filter if you get a "really good" engine. Carburetors on a value engine are actually bullet proof anymore. So there's one thing, I guess. Going by the pictures I posted. The plate the engine sits on is one stamped piece of steel. A cast iron axle doesn't mean dick when it's bolted with one pin to that "frame". See the three fingers that protrude downward from the hole the crankshaft goes through? You need to either loosen the engine or drop the PTO to change your drive belt. That's a job you will end up doing every 3-4 years. We charge 1 hour labor ($78) plus the belt, which is about $30. And then, if you're like one of my customers, you DIY and forget the PTO stop bolt when reassembling, trashing a $300 clutch. I was able to get him some warranty coverage, though, so he's ok now. DELETED is right about a zero turn being a far better mower. There's a few things I don't like about the consumer models. The drives are OK, but the Cub RZT transmissions have a problem where its brakes go out of adjustment. Then you end up with one side being less and less responsive until you spin in a circle. Toro probably is getting their drives from Hydro-Gear as well, so i'd expect similar issues. Not sure about the Toro, but on all residential mowers, the PTO clutch shuts off if you move in reverse. Not so much a problem on a LT, but on a Z, you're reversing all the time. Someone backed over their kid, now we all must pay. The cub RZT decks are very similar in construction to their LT series, not durable. If you hit something with one, it will cause damage. If you go with Cub, the first mower you're going to get that can sustain impacts is the Z-Force, which is a semi-pro mower. It has much stouter blades and spindles. They're still cartridge bearings, just bigger. The deck is fabricated instead of stamped, and you'll get a Kawasaki engine. Kawasaki doesn't make non-pro engines, but they're stone cold bitches for warranty work. You should be able to find a used Z-Force for $1500, but it will have issues.
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Sep 28, 2010 03:07
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Thanks guys! It's a toss-up on the cadet 1040/1042. I can get a good deal and some 0-financing for the first year, so I'd likely upgrade to the slightly bigger deck and pay off the extra hundred bucks or two over the next couple of months. Another equipment shop does have a used toro ZTR (42 inch deck if memory serves) with a new short block - but no financing options for around $1600. You've definitely given me some things to think about. Much appreciated! \/\/\/ You are of course correct, For some reason I was associating the last 2 #s in model with the size of the deck. That'll learn me. \/\/\/ Beverly Cleavage fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Sep 28, 2010 |
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Sep 28, 2010 12:26
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The 1040,42 and 46 all have a 42 inch timed deck. 1050 has a 50".
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Sep 28, 2010 12:51
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I guess it begs the question, is there any real reason to choose the 42 over the 40 if I just wanted to go new?
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Sep 28, 2010 13:03
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Looks like I need to hit up the Janesville, WI Thresharee (sp?) next summer for all of AI. Drove past that place when it was going on - could not believe all of the equipment there.
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Sep 28, 2010 20:36
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Well I finally got my newest free riding mower, a Simplicity 4011H. Good timing as last week my last free riding mower (rear engined ariens) decided to stop running for no good reason. Of course we picked the day we get 4" of rain to go get it, but I can't complain about a free riding mower. I wasn't expecting much, but aside from it being incredibly gross, it looks pretty sound. I haven't had it started yet, the battery was completely flat (no help from sitting for ~4 months) but after a little while on the battery tender (my charger broke) the lights came on and it did turn over - briefly. Hopefully I won't have to get a new battery, but we'll see. Is purple power or simple green safe to use in your driveway? We have well water so I obviously need to be careful about runoff. This thing is completely filthy all over, the underside is especially gross. A good spraydown would work wonders, I think. I didn't get much done other than some minor cleaning up, taking the deck off (holy entire field of grass/straw embedded in it), and adjusted the clutch/brake so the pedal actually works (who knows if it actually did anything, though, I adjusted it as far as I could). I need to get a new belt for the deck but otherwise should be ready to mow. Anyway, some pics of this hot beast!     
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Oct 1, 2010 18:28
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