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Ohio State BOOniversity
Mar 3, 2008



the last time I bought ammo online was 10 years ago. what kind of 30-06 should I be using in a Garand, and what's a retailer (online or brick) you prefer for ammo. I grasp deals will be limited at this time.

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my kinda ape
Sep 15, 2008

Everything's gonna be A-OK


Hair Elf

Ohio State BOOniversity posted:

the last time I bought ammo online was 10 years ago. what kind of 30-06 should I be using in a Garand, and what's a retailer (online or brick) you prefer for ammo. I grasp deals will be limited at this time.

SGAmmo, Sportsman's Guide, and Outdoor Limited all have good prices and come recommended from goons. Lately Cabela's/Bass Pro have been good about keeping a continuous supply of ammo without price gouging although in better times their prices weren't nearly as competitive. I had a very good experience buying from Velocity Ammunition Sales recently.

For a Garand you want 30-06 that's listed as mil spec because the newer hunting loads are much stronger and can damage your op rod unless you've adjusted your gas system to take it. I think PPU 30-06 is supposed to be decent? Although I've never used it myself as I don't own a 30-06 of any sort.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


Hornady makes ammo specifically for Garands, but it's pricey.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018232078

Not sure if anyone is still selling surplus M2 ball.

Coxswain Balls
Jun 3, 2001

I'm not looking for your validation through this telescope, just planets boobies bullets


College Slice

Is Strelok still the go-to app for reticles and ballistics data? I've been using the free app for a while with my precision .22 and like it enough to consider one of the paid versions, but I'm not sure if I should go with the Plus or Pro version.

The only thing I'd really like that Strelok doesn't have is a PC program that links up with the mobile app so I don't have to fidget with a mobile interface when I'm messing around with custom load data and seeing holdover info for SFP ballistic reticles at different magnifications. If there are other apps I should be looking into I'm all ears. Right now I'm pretty happy with making my own dope cards in Excel that fit into a little windowed slot in my shooting mat, but the extra features like using your phone's barometric and weather sensors to update data in real time seem really cool to me, on top of the additional reticle data at different zoom levels.



And my little cheatsheet I have folded in half and laminated into a card.

Kramjacks
Jul 5, 2007



Ohio State BOOniversity posted:

the last time I bought ammo online was 10 years ago. what kind of 30-06 should I be using in a Garand, and what's a retailer (online or brick) you prefer for ammo. I grasp deals will be limited at this time.

Prvi Partizan also makes 30-06 for M1s.

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009


Coxswain Balls posted:

Is Strelok still the go-to app for reticles and ballistics data? I've been using the free app for a while with my precision .22 and like it enough to consider one of the paid versions, but I'm not sure if I should go with the Plus or Pro version.

I use Plus, I don't remember why I chose it over Pro, I think the extra features weren't ones I saw myself using regularly. I don't use it for much other than modeling what a trajectory should look like, expected holdovers etc, before verifying it at the range. I like that it has I think all my optics reticles programmed in.

Mambo No. 5
Feb 24, 2009

Admiral Parry "Terror" Sornis,
Dead Birds Society


S&B .30-06 for M1 Garands is what I run. It's a little more than PPU. I used Sportsman's Guide until my sub ran out, then SG Ammo and Surplus Ammo.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005

border patrol qt


Plaster Town Cop

Okay, I tried the bolt action .22 today and did reasonably well with it from a bench, untimed. But I have no way to attach a sling.

I'm planning on running the 20" AR for the event. So the question becomes: do I run work ammo, which is essentially free? Or do I run this shitload of M855 that is taking up space and doing me very little good because it's not good defensive ammo and I can't use it for competitions or in classes that use steel targets?

The Rat
Aug 29, 2004

You will find no one to help you here. Beth DuClare has been dissected and placed in cryonic storage.


If it were me I'd run the work ammo and then sell the M855 to all the panicking Cletuses out there if you're not gonna shoot it anyways.

Loan Dusty Road
Feb 27, 2007


The Rat posted:

If it were me I'd run the work ammo and then sell the M855 to all the panicking Cletuses out there if you're not gonna shoot it anyways.

Sage advice.

Chillbro Baggins
Oct 8, 2004
Bad Angus! Bad!


One time, long ago, before I ended up buying my Remington 870, I considered but didn't have the money for, a Norinco clone of the Ithaca 37. It'd have been good, since I shoot lefty and my SO at the time (and most people I'd lend it to) shoot righty.

How does the Ithaca 37 work, feeding like a regular shotgun but somehow ejecting spent hulls through the loading hole in the bottom?

kupachek
Aug 5, 2015

We both like to hang out in public bathrooms?!

Chillbro Baggins posted:

One time, long ago, before I ended up buying my Remington 870, I considered but didn't have the money for, a Norinco clone of the Ithaca 37. It'd have been good, since I shoot lefty and my SO at the time (and most people I'd lend it to) shoot righty.

How does the Ithaca 37 work, feeding like a regular shotgun but somehow ejecting spent hulls through the loading hole in the bottom?

The extractor is at the 12 o'clock position on the bolt and as the bolt retracts it kicks the empty hull down. When the bolt reaches the rear of the receiver the shell lifter arms drop to position and depress the cartridge stop, which allows the next shell to plop into position and then be raised up and chambered.

The machining and finish on the Norinco clones are shite, but they are built solid.

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009


The Rat posted:

If it were me I'd run the work ammo and then sell the M855 to all the panicking Cletuses out there if you're not gonna shoot it anyways.

Same, I have so much m855 and nowhere to shoot it these days

flightless greeb
Jan 28, 2016



You can get old actually nice Ithaca 37s on gunbroker all day for like 350 or less also. I scored a cut down one for 250 a few years back that was C&R and quite nice. They can be a bit particular about extraction however so I wouldn't want to rely on one for HD or anything like that.

If you're interested in cheap bottom ejectors you could also look at the Remington Model 10. They're cheap as heck as well and most are nearly a century old. Be warned, parts are no longer available as a result.

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005

border patrol qt


Plaster Town Cop

I took the Remington 513T out today and shot at the Appleseed promo target which sort of lets you get a taste for your abilities before you show up. You shoot three rounds standing, three rounds kneeling/sitting, and three rounds prone on progressively smaller targets. I got 40 points out of 45, which they say is a decent score. I was pretty happy with my accuracy considering how bad my eyesight is and how impossible it was for me to get a good sight picture on the smallest prone targets. I almost felt like I was getting a headache from squinting or something after that nine-round course of fire. I'm not sure I would want to shoot it all day, just from that perspective.

The other issue I had was with ejection. Toward the end of my range time today, after about 40 rounds fired, I was extracting the empties while pulling the bolt back but they weren't ejecting. They were staying stuck on the bolt face, and I'd have to manually pick the casing out with my fingers. Gun probably just needs some cleaning, but it wasn't very encouraging.

As such, I'm planning on just running my 20" AR both days. That's a fair amount of ammo, but I've got it to burn and I don't have any more rifle classes planned this year.

infrared35 fucked around with this message at 02:32 on May 25, 2020

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

A garden full of trees, and a pocket full of cheese.

I just picked up a savage Axis in 6.5mm creedmoor. Haven't had a chance to fire it yet, but have been playing around with snapcaps and whatnot.

I know its not a fancy Holland and Holland gun, or Weatherby or whatever and this is also my first rifle that doesn't use air as the propellant, first bolt action etc. etc. etc. but I've noticed that the bolt feels kinda clunky and rattley and its a bit difficult to lift the bolt up in order to pull it back and load another round. Lifting up the bolt cocks the gun, so that might be part of the reason why. I'm wondering if this will smooth out over time, like it'll get a bit easier to lift up the bolt/work the action after I've put a few dozen rounds through it.

Also, on the bolt, just behind the...... Head(?) there is a piece that turns freely WRT the rest of the bolt. That wouldn't bug me so much, but its got two nubs one of which is shorter than the other. The bolt seems to work fine regardless of which way this piece is oriented but I figure if one nub is a bit shorter than the other there must be a certain way in which its supposed to sit.

The part circled.
At the top of the circle shows the piece thats slightly shorter than the one on the bottom.
In case it matters, mine is the left handed version.



E: Also, whats this I hear about breaking in a barrel? Is that an actual thing? How is that done?

Flatland Crusoe
Jan 12, 2011

Great White Hunter
Master Race

Let me explain why I'm better than you


wesleywillis posted:

I just picked up a savage Axis in 6.5mm creedmoor. Haven't had a chance to fire it yet, but have been playing around with snapcaps and whatnot.

I know its not a fancy Holland and Holland gun, or Weatherby or whatever and this is also my first rifle that doesn't use air as the propellant, first bolt action etc. etc. etc. but I've noticed that the bolt feels kinda clunky and rattley and its a bit difficult to lift the bolt up in order to pull it back and load another round. Lifting up the bolt cocks the gun, so that might be part of the reason why. I'm wondering if this will smooth out over time, like it'll get a bit easier to lift up the bolt/work the action after I've put a few dozen rounds through it.

Also, on the bolt, just behind the...... Head(?) there is a piece that turns freely WRT the rest of the bolt. That wouldn't bug me so much, but its got two nubs one of which is shorter than the other. The bolt seems to work fine regardless of which way this piece is oriented but I figure if one nub is a bit shorter than the other there must be a certain way in which its supposed to sit.

The part circled.
At the top of the circle shows the piece thats slightly shorter than the one on the bottom.
In case it matters, mine is the left handed version.



E: Also, whats this I hear about breaking in a barrel? Is that an actual thing? How is that done?

You circled the locking lugs that lock into the receiver and hold the pressure generated by the round going off. I donít fully understand what you are asking but my guess is one locking lug is shorter to get the orientation of the locking lugs correct since they spin relative to the bolt face and getting 1/2 turn out of battery would disrupt the headspace. The locking lugs on a lot of actions are fixed to the bolt body.

Barrel break in on a cheap rifle just means that you should clean it a few times in the first 50 rounds or so and expect that accuracy should improve over that time as the rifling gets cleaned up by bullets and the hot gases.

CainFortea
Oct 15, 2004



wesleywillis posted:

this is also my first rifle that doesn't use air as the propellant

This rifle uses air as the propellant. It's just spicy air.

Wa11y
Jul 23, 2002

Did I say "cookies?" I meant, "Fire in your face!"

wesleywillis posted:

Also, on the bolt, just behind the...... Head(?) there is a piece that turns freely WRT the rest of the bolt. That wouldn't bug me so much, but its got two nubs one of which is shorter than the other. The bolt seems to work fine regardless of which way this piece is oriented but I figure if one nub is a bit shorter than the other there must be a certain way in which its supposed to sit.

The part circled.
At the top of the circle shows the piece thats slightly shorter than the one on the bottom.
In case it matters, mine is the left handed version.



That is the bolt baffle, it's used to stop the rearward travel of the bolt depending on the cartridge length. There's a longer one for .223 length cartridges, and the shorter one for .308 length cartridges, since they both use the same action.

Not sure how that specific model works, but on the Model 10, both sides of the .308 baffle are the same. So I can't help with the orientation on your model. Maybe check the manual and see if it shows? What side is the bolt release on, internally (not just the external button/lever, but the actual piece that stops the bolt and moves out of the way when the button/lever is used)? That's probably where it's supposed to face.

Somebody Awful
Nov 27, 2011

Don't let Lowtax go down with the ship. Do your part for these dead gay forums.


The Axis manual, which is freely available from Savage's website, indicates that the shorter lug should be on the same side as the extractor. The one in the picture appears to be backwards.

Kramjacks
Jul 5, 2007



So I'm looking at getting a bolt action in .223 for target shooting at 200 yards. Two that have caught my eye are a Howa mini-action package, and a used Savage 25 with a thumbhole stock and scope installed. Anyone have an opinion on either of these, or other suggestions? My budget is up to $1000 Canadollars total for a rifle and scope.

darnon
Nov 8, 2009


The Model 25 is kind of a red headed step child with no aftermarket attention due to its more popular common platform siblings. The stock magazines particularly suck: made out of fairly soft plastic that bulges when loaded and the follower can tilt pretty easily. I ended up doing some frankenstein work to install a Howa mini magwell onto mine so I had decent one (and 10 rounds to play with).

The Ruger American is pretty popular especially if you already have AR mags.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

I FUCKING LOVE COCAINE



Now that I have a house it's time to get a safe. There are only 2 long guns in the house at the moment, and I think a safe with space for ~6 scoped long guns + a shelf for bits and pieces will be fine for the foreseeable future.

I'd prefer mechanical but electronic with a mechanical backup would be fine probably.

The real wrinkle is the basement stairs in this house are ancient crap, and I'm not sure a 300# item + delivery people could get down them safely.

I saw Agile recommended someplace, e.g., https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/...light-gun-safe/ but I'm not real fond of making that big of a purchase just based on professional reviewers.

Any suggestions?

Edit: Budget! Ideally 5-600? I could stretch that if I'm being naive about quality at that price, or maybe for something that could also serve as a document/valuables safe (but I gather gun safes aren't usually fireproof enough for that?)

the yeti fucked around with this message at 15:34 on May 29, 2020

Loan Dusty Road
Feb 27, 2007


You can generally remove the door on a safe to spilt some weight if that helps. Like my 400lb safe has a 150lb door or something.

I really need to get around to replacing my electric keypad with the S&G dial I bought a long time ago.

Flatland Crusoe
Jan 12, 2011

Great White Hunter
Master Race

Let me explain why I'm better than you


the yeti posted:

Now that I have a house it's time to get a safe. There are only 2 long guns in the house at the moment, and I think a safe with space for ~6 scoped long guns + a shelf for bits and pieces will be fine for the foreseeable future.

I'd prefer mechanical but electronic with a mechanical backup would be fine probably.

The real wrinkle is the basement stairs in this house are ancient crap, and I'm not sure a 300# item + delivery people could get down them safely.

I saw Agile recommended someplace, e.g., https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/...light-gun-safe/ but I'm not real fond of making that big of a purchase just based on professional reviewers.

Any suggestions?

Edit: Budget! Ideally 5-600? I could stretch that if I'm being naive about quality at that price, or maybe for something that could also serve as a document/valuables safe (but I gather gun safes aren't usually fireproof enough for that?)

In my opinion those SecureIt series cabinets are probably the best for Under $1k you will find. Liberty Centurions are another good option in that $600 price range especially if you want the option for a mechanical lock a manageable weight with the door removed.

flightless greeb
Jan 28, 2016



There's also the long wait time Zanotti safes that come apart into component pieces which would definitely help reduce the likelihood of falling down the stairs like a cartoon character. They're expensive though.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

I FUCKING LOVE COCAINE



Flatland Crusoe posted:

In my opinion those SecureIt series cabinets are probably the best for Under $1k you will find. Liberty Centurions are another good option in that $600 price range especially if you want the option for a mechanical lock a manageable weight with the door removed.

flightless greeb posted:

There's also the long wait time Zanotti safes that come apart into component pieces which would definitely help reduce the likelihood of falling down the stairs like a cartoon character. They're expensive though.

Thanks y'all---riddle me this then, is it foolish to try to get a safe for under a grand even though my aim is housing a relatively small collection?

I like turtles
Aug 6, 2009



the yeti posted:

Thanks y'all---riddle me this then, is it foolish to try to get a safe for under a grand even though my aim is housing a relatively small collection?

Anything is better than nothing. Know that the average door buster Costco/Bass Pro/Cabelas/whatever safe provides little to no protection against concerted effort by real thieves, but it should deter smash and grab and the honest. Similarly, don't count on the fire rating being worth jack poo poo.
My recommendation in the newbie thread OP was look to spend at least 10% of your collection's value on a safe. Get the biggest safe you can, either that you can afford or that you can fit, whichever is least. IMO, it should be a somewhat painful (wallet wise) purchase. If you're sticking thousands to tens of thousands of dollars of stuff in a box, I think it's worth making sure it's a box that actually protects the things inside to the best your budget can afford.
The specific details, model and brand of the mass market safes you find at the stores above honestly doesn't really matter. Find a lock you like/trust. Something big. Something heavy.

Bolt the thing down to the floor. Put it somewhere awkward to maneuver large tools.

I like turtles fucked around with this message at 16:25 on May 29, 2020

CainFortea
Oct 15, 2004



the yeti posted:

Thanks y'all---riddle me this then, is it foolish to try to get a safe for under a grand even though my aim is housing a relatively small collection?

Personally my thinking on safes is, if you're going to get a safe don't get a cheap one. The fire ratings on cheap safes is a joke, and you'll still spend the a lot of effort and money moving a cheap safe as an expensive safe. In my mind, if you're not going to get a good one, just spend more effort on getting a decent cabinet and hiding it better and either put away the money saved towards a future safe purchase or more gun stuff.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"

A cheap safe or security cabinet is certainly way better than nothing if that's what fits your budget and logistics. A Stack On security cabinet kept my guns out of the hands of the rear end in a top hat kid across the street and his shitstain friend when they broke into my old rental house looking for guns while we were out. As soon as I bought my own home I upgraded big time, but that's what I could manage to buy and move around at the time and I was sure glad I had it.

Ceros_X
Aug 6, 2006

U.S. Marine


You can also find sometimes find a pretty decent deal on used safes on Craigslist/Armslist/Facebook Marketplace - you'll just have to be able to move them or pay a safe moving company.

I picked up a pretty massive safe for $400 used - I had a buddy help tip it into the bed of my truck, ratchet strapped it in and then had to buy a hand cart with solid core tires to be able to move it (with two people, and that's empty). If you try a regular hand cart the tires go flat. Usually I've been able to manage with a few friends and a hand cart but this last move I had to hire a safe moving company to get it down into the basement (no garage access).

Once it is loaded up with guns and ammo it is super hard to move unless you come prepared and I've been happy with it. For fire protection just look into good insurance (a separate policy or a rider to your existing, a lot of time there are caps on normal home owner policies).

For small collections it may seem a little overboard but it's guaranteed that in a few years you'll probably need a bigger one. Guns multiplying and all that.

Loan Dusty Road
Feb 27, 2007


Definitely consider your needs. I donít have anything in my safe that I canít replace, so my only concern is keeping the kids out and stopping smash and grab. If someone really wants in or my house burns up, whatever, I have insurance.

Flatland Crusoe
Jan 12, 2011

Great White Hunter
Master Race

Let me explain why I'm better than you


the yeti posted:

Thanks y'all---riddle me this then, is it foolish to try to get a safe for under a grand even though my aim is housing a relatively small collection?

To me thatís what the SecureIt system does well. Only focus on a security and organization for 1/2 dozen long guns (actual capacity not 1/2 or less the rated capacity). If you get something better you can configure the cabinet for ammunition or accessories only. If you buy more guns you lock together another 6 gun section. Itís also pretty mobile.

I personally have a skewed view on gun security cabinets because Iíve lived in 6 different places in the last decade and know I have another 1-2 moves imminent within another 4 years so mobility is a priority. My experience with theft has always been very opportunistic and low effort stuff thatís best solved by bothering to lock your car and house doors.

Im sure you will hear different reasoning for different levels of security based on varied experiences.

Nitrousoxide
May 30, 2011

do not buy a oneplus phone




Is a small handheld locker or safe for your bedroom a good option? It's obviously able to be carted away and opened at someone's leisure but it should prevent someone from opening the safe inside of your house right?


If you're going to have several guns in a cabinet you're probably not going to have all of them in your bedroom. Which is I expect the place you are most likely to need them in the event of a home invasion. So is a secondary small safe for a handgun in your bedroom a good option?

Nitrousoxide fucked around with this message at 17:38 on May 29, 2020

my kinda ape
Sep 15, 2008

Everything's gonna be A-OK


Hair Elf

People always talk about cheap safes not holding up to determined burglars, which I'm sure is completely true and does happen but I'd be really interested in seeing how often. I bet it's like <1% of break-ins to homes with an actual large safe (even a cheap one) even have a substantial attempt made at opening the safe, much less an actual breach of the safe. Unless I'm securing my collection of priceless antique guns or registered MGs then it seems like a lot of worry over a pretty unlikely event. Although I guess that applies to a lot of gun related stuff...

my kinda ape fucked around with this message at 17:40 on May 29, 2020

Loan Dusty Road
Feb 27, 2007


Nitrousoxide posted:

Is a small handheld locker or safe for your bedroom a good option? It's obviously able to be carted away and opened at someone's leisure but it should prevent someone from opening the safe inside of your house right?


If you're going to have several guns in a cabinet you're probably not going to have all of them in your bedroom. Which is I expect the place you are most likely to need them in the event of a home invasion. So is a secondary small safe for a handgun in your bedroom a good option?

This is what I do. My large safe is in the garage. Hereís what I have in the bedroom. I can fit 2 pistols in it and you can mount it as well. I need to not be lazy and bolt it to my end table (and then bolt the table to the wall) but right now itís just keeping my toddlers safe. https://www.amazon.com/Fort-Knox-Ha...l/dp/B00V6TDX4E

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

A garden full of trees, and a pocket full of cheese.

Flatland Crusoe posted:

You circled the locking lugs that lock into the receiver and hold the pressure generated by the round going off. I donít fully understand what you are asking but my guess is one locking lug is shorter to get the orientation of the locking lugs correct since they spin relative to the bolt face and getting 1/2 turn out of battery would disrupt the headspace. The locking lugs on a lot of actions are fixed to the bolt body.

Barrel break in on a cheap rifle just means that you should clean it a few times in the first 50 rounds or so and expect that accuracy should improve over that time as the rifling gets cleaned up by bullets and the hot gases.

Thanks for the reply, I was wondering how it was supposed to be oriented, which was explained a couple posts down. Thanks to the other goons too.

As for break in, are you saying (for example) shoot like 5 rounds, then run a bore snake/cleaning brush through it a few times, then ~5 more rounds, bore snake and so on?
Is there a particular solvent or other bore cleaner I should put in the snake/brush? Should I do it dry? What about oiling the barrel after each cleaning?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Break in is basically voodoo. Just shoot your gun. Itíll be fine.

Craptacular
Jul 11, 2004



Cyrano4747 posted:

Break in is basically voodoo. Just shoot your gun. Itíll be fine.
So you're telling me that sacrificing a chicken and then lubing a patch with its entrails doesn't do anything for accuracy? I don't believe you.

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Loan Dusty Road
Feb 27, 2007


Just use the entrails as bore snake.

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