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As already recommended, get an occluder for your off eye so you can keep it open (practice with it!) to prevent strain on your eyes and facial muscles, and hydrate, hydrate, hydrate.
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Mar 26, 2021 21:34
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That's something I should look into. I just bought an eyepatch from Walmart (ugh, couldn't find one anywhere else) for tomorrow. It starts at 8:30am so I won't have time to get anything delivered to me. I think this might help. Unfortunately I'm left eye dominant and it can focus better than my right eye but I shoot right handed.
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Mar 26, 2021 23:15
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I got my rifleman badge! It was cold and rainy and super muddy today but at the very end of the day I got it. First target is standing, next row is sitting (my favorite), third row is transition from standing to shooting in prone, last row is prone... for the left target. 
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Mar 27, 2021 23:17
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Pennywise the Frown posted:I got my rifleman badge! Heck ya man. Good job!
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Mar 28, 2021 00:59
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Pennywise the Frown posted:I got my rifleman badge! 500 yards with *iron sights?* Hot drat that's good.
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Mar 28, 2021 02:22
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lite_sleepr posted:500 yards with *iron sights?* Hot drat that's good. The targets are at 25 meters and scaled to represent the size of the targets at the various distances. This allows appleseeds to be held at any range that has at least 25 meters and allows .22lr to make it cheap and easy to get more shooters in the program. They do organize known distance shoots where they use full size targets at the various distances but they require you pass a local appleseed iirc and obviously add the element of adjusting your sights for the distance of each target and require something with a bit better ballistics than .22lr.
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Mar 28, 2021 04:31
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^^^ This.lite_sleepr posted:500 yards with *iron sights?* Hot drat that's good. I used a scope. The first time I went I brought an AR with iron sights and literally everyone else (maybe 15+ people) had a .22LR with a scope. I assumed scopes weren't allowed.  So last time and this time I brought my 10/22 with some accessory upgrades. I used a cheaper Simmons Truplex .22 Mag scope. Apparently that's one of the most common for 10/22s which is why I got it I'm guessing. I think I might want to upgrade.
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Mar 28, 2021 14:58
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Just loving great. One of the torx screws holding the optics mount on my FNX Tac completely stripped using the supplied tool and now I have to drill it out. The other one came out without any difficulty is why it pisses me off. gently caress TORX.
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Mar 30, 2021 23:09
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Torx would be ok if gun companies didn't use the softest screws possible 
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Mar 31, 2021 03:14
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Having helped build decks with Phillips and Torx screws, I gotta agree with the Beeb. Torx ain't your problem. Soft-rear end screws and assholes with impact drivers are the problem.
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Mar 31, 2021 03:22
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Gun ID request: from the protests in Myanmar Some sort of air rifle? Considering you can see through it all the way under the barrel, it looks like it has very little in the way of an action.
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Mar 31, 2021 05:01
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Definitely an air rifle of sorts, crude like a potato gun. Or maybe a pipe shotgun.
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Mar 31, 2021 05:38
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Capn Beeb posted:Torx would be ok if gun companies didn't use the softest screws possible I have a Grey Ghost glock slide that has a screw broken off in it because the head of one of the included screws just snapped right off when I was mounting an RMR to it. Extremely jazzed about that. And of course the other screw is stripping so I’ve just left it alone until I can afford somebody to fix it.
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Mar 31, 2021 13:46
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I've built wooden fences using torx screws and they are great for putting in a ton of screws really fast and not slipping. But even in that application, the shits just fall apart as soon as you try to reverse them for any reason. It makes no sense because there isn't a logical reason for them to be weaker than other screw designs, but I've heard tons of anecdotes from others working with wood that say the same thing.
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Mar 31, 2021 14:14
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Sounds like torx screws should be single-use items. Which means they should be replaced with nails or rivets. 
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Mar 31, 2021 14:16
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I don't know if this is the case, but I would assume either the screw was weakened by being over torqued when it was put in, or else there's thread locker involved (maybe both). For something like a fence, there's also the added issue of being out in the elements for a while.
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Mar 31, 2021 14:18
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I've removed screws in decks, and again, Torx is king. If you have cheap and lovely screws, you'll have a cheap and lovely time dealing with them. And if someone over-torqued them on the way in, you'll have a lovely time getting them out. I've worked with both Phillips and Torx a lot in construction involving dense wood, and it's made me a Torx believer. Your bits last longer, the screw heads get wallowed out less, there is a lot less slippage, and because there's more surface area contact with the Torx shape, less force is required to prevent slipping. I only like Phillips for aesthetic reasons (and I prefer slotted screws if I'm putting something together that has to look nice with exposed screws), and in drywall screws. And honestly, the thing about drywall screws is mostly due to the fact that those are the perfect fastener for general home use: they bite quick, they go in fast, they'll work on nearly anything in your house, and they're strong. Their practical use advantages far outweigh the disadvantages of their head type.
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Mar 31, 2021 14:29
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I've had the worst luck with torx screws on Surefire lights, mainly the ones that hold the Scout mounts. Guess Surefire cheaped out in that section.
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Mar 31, 2021 14:38
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Dip Viscous posted:I've built wooden fences using torx screws and they are great for putting in a ton of screws really fast and not slipping. But even in that application, the shits just fall apart as soon as you try to reverse them for any reason. It makes no sense because there isn't a logical reason for them to be weaker than other screw designs, but I've heard tons of anecdotes from others working with wood that say the same thing. Dad's a general contractor and he tends to use Robertson screws for decks and such up here, but this is  and all that.
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Mar 31, 2021 20:12
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I bought some heavy treated pine screws to put together a retaining wall and was very impressed to see that they came with a 3/8" drive Robertson head drill bit. Wasn't the best material; by the time I had finished it was mostly fuckered, but it was fantastic while it lasted.
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Mar 31, 2021 22:41
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Fearless posted:Dad's a general contractor and he tends to use Robertson screws for decks and such up here, but this is I sincerely wish Robertson screws were widely available down here.
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Mar 31, 2021 23:05
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infrared35 posted:I sincerely wish Robertson screws were widely available down here. Of all the oddball (in the US) fasteners I see used on cargo trailers, Robertson is the least PIA to deal with. I especially like it when all the screws are Robertson, securing both the wood floor and the metal skin. I've used the same cheap Robertson drivers for about four years and never had a problem stripping screws, breaking heads off, or rounding the bit. The same can not be said for torx, star, or allen fasteners. It's very much appreciated when repairs have to be done quickly and/or on the road.
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Mar 31, 2021 23:20
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madeintaipei posted:Of all the oddball (in the US) fasteners I see used on cargo trailers, Robertson is the least PIA to deal with. I especially like it when all the screws are Robertson, securing both the wood floor and the metal skin. I've used the same cheap Robertson drivers for about four years and never had a problem stripping screws, breaking heads off, or rounding the bit. The same can not be said for torx, star, or allen fasteners. It's very much appreciated when repairs have to be done quickly and/or on the road. Yep, and they're great when you have to take apart a wooden shipping crate, and then (usually) put it back together again.
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Mar 31, 2021 23:28
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infrared35 posted:Yep, and they're great when you have to take apart a wooden shipping crate, and then (usually) put it back together again. Things that only concern customs and thieves.
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Apr 1, 2021 02:56
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Things that only concern customs and thieves. And the clients that purchase large, delicate architectural models and have them shipped across the country.
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Apr 1, 2021 03:06
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I was more thinking of the putting it back together again, but maybe you have to ship those back?
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Apr 1, 2021 03:31
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I was more thinking of the putting it back together again, but maybe you have to ship those back? Usually no, it is considered to be part and parcel of the model cost but the firm I worked for had a couple of massive crates we shipped a model to Hong Kong in get returned to us. Those had to be disassembled to properly extract the model inside. We had them listed on Kijiji for months as shipping crates with zero interest, but when I switched the description to "Post-Industrial furniture, with authentic shipping labels and travel scuffs" we had like six calls about the two of them in a single day. East Vancouver hipsters gotta hip, I guess. Fearless fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Apr 1, 2021 |
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Apr 1, 2021 03:48
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Fearless posted:We had them listed on Kijiji for months as shipping crates with zero interest, but when I switched the description to "Post-Industrial furniture, with authentic shipping labels and travel scuffs" we had like six calls about the two of them in a single day. East Vancouver hipsters gotta hip, I guess.  There's a local coffee shop where the tables are made to look like old shipping crates. The customs stamps are bogus but they have what appear to be legit IPPC markings. 
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Apr 1, 2021 15:19
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So this is a strange problem to have, but: I need a piece of shot or ball bearing smaller than an eighth of an inch to (hopefully) bolster my '97's extraction. Where do I go to find shot for sale and listed by size? Or is #8 birdshot smaller than an eight of an inch?
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Apr 2, 2021 05:26
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Capn Beeb posted:So this is a strange problem to have, but: Not sure why you would want a ball for this but any shot under #6 would qualify. If you want it to stay round probably don't want lead shot. You can buy bearing type steel balls from McMaster or other supply shops: https://www.mcmaster.com/steel-balls/diameter~0-101/ . Or just buy a shotgun shell from somebody if you don't have one.
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Apr 2, 2021 12:26
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Any recommendations for a 10/22 rotary loader? Are they all pretty much the same? I’m looking at this Caldwell https://smile.amazon.com/Caldwell-Magazine-Reloading-Calibers-Construction/dp/B07KT9NYGV/ if so.
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Apr 2, 2021 15:12
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They are all pretty much the same. Will save your thumbs and be a lot cleaner than manually loading. Require some finesse to make it work well and they can have challenges with off-brand and larger magazines. I use this one now https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CXN9UA
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Apr 2, 2021 15:18
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Gracias
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Apr 2, 2021 15:26
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Styles Bitchley posted:Not sure why you would want a ball for this but any shot under #6 would qualify. If you want it to stay round probably don't want lead shot. You can buy bearing type steel balls from McMaster or other supply shops: https://www.mcmaster.com/steel-balls/diameter~0-101/ . Or just buy a shotgun shell from somebody if you don't have one. Because Winchester 1897s are weird https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-bbh1HVPCk#t=558s 
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Apr 2, 2021 20:14
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Re: stuck screw chat I don’t know if they make them small enough for the little 6-32 screws they use for RMRs, but with some effort I’ve had good success with using EZ outs, which are basically super hard left handed threaded screws you can screw into the stuck screw, and since their threads are opposite, when you crank down on them the drive the stuck thread out. Not the easiest thing to get it bedded properly but it’s always a relief to get a stuck screw out.
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Apr 2, 2021 21:39
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Capn Beeb posted:So this is a strange problem to have, but: Rotometals but usually has it by the 25 lb bag, if you not in a rush i can send you some #9 and #8 when i get back home in two weeks.
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Apr 2, 2021 22:07
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Rodenthar Drothman posted:Re: stuck screw chat BURN THE WITCH!!!
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Apr 2, 2021 22:17
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Git gud. It helps that I have access to actual vises, mills, etc.
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Apr 2, 2021 22:34
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Part 1 of a 2 part Question. The sequel is going in the NFA thread Part 1. I have been looking for a 16" complete upper in 300 blk, but I have noticed like 80% of them still have a pistol-length gas system. Very few run carbine length. Any thoughts or info on why the shorter pistol-length gasser is used, despite 16" Barrel? To be continued...
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Apr 3, 2021 14:15
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The Bananana posted:Part 1 of a 2 part Question. The sequel is going in the NFA thread .300blk was created and intended to be run in short barrels with minimal failures in either subsonic or supersonic ammunition. The optimum length is 9” if I remember correctly. Since it was intended for short barrels there really isn’t anything to gain from longer gas systems. The shorter pistol gas system works well with subsonic ammo (most subs use pistol powders for quick burns). You might be slightly overgassed if all you do is run supersonic ammo with a suppressor, but that wasn’t really what it was made for.
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Apr 3, 2021 15:14
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