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widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Reposted from the end of the last thread.

Two questions...

1.) Contemplating a dedicated setup for my Ceiner 1911 .22lr conversion kit. Am I better off building from a bare frame or buying a cheap 1911 and discarding/selling/stashing slide/barrel? I'm leaning towards building since it could be cheaper than buying a whole extra 1911. Not like I need high-end parts for what will be a plinker.

2.) Where in the US might a man be able to take his dad to fire an M79 grenade launcher? My dad carried one in Vietnam, and to this day one of his big wants is to fire one again. He'd be happy with chalk rounds, he just wants to fire one again. I'm trying to convince him to spend some of my inheritance on an actual M79, but no luck with that. Yet.

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widefault
Mar 16, 2009


TheStig posted:

There was a company making 37mm M79 Flare launchers a bit ago, if that would float his boat.

I've seen some of those, but they're more like an M203 with a pistol grip. There is a 40mm airsoft-like version that shoots plastic and foam rounds propelled by gas, but I don't know if that would be acceptable.

My dad has apparently done some checking and was told Knob Creek was a no, but I don't know who told him that. He still wants to go, so who knows.

We're in Wisconsin, so Vegas might be a bit far just for that. It's a start, though.

I still think he should just buy one. Who doesn't need a grenade launcher?

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


I've used Ballistol on my nickel plated RIA 1911, doesn't seem to be eating away on anything. My skin oils, though, have created a nice patina on the front and back straps.

Ballistol was originally designed for cleaning black powder guns, and has done a good job so far. It's also non-toxic. To me it smells like licorice, although a lot of people find it to be closer to fermented rear end.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


infrared35 posted:

If you're researching Wisconsin, picture California. With cheese.

As a resident of the great cheesemaking state of Wisconsin, not even close. Other than lack of CCW, Wisconsin is pretty good for gun owners. And none of that permit stuff for buying a pistol like a certain neighboring state to the north and east. The 48 hour waiting period sucks. I'm angry now, dammit!!!

And I'm pretty cure CCW will be coming after the fall. Jim Doyle won't be around to veto it for a third time.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Secret Ooze posted:

It seems that I could put in an order for a threaded barrel and suppressor for my M9 if this move happens...

Whereabouts in Wisconsin, if I might ask?

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


My WalMart had full shelves one weekend, then three boxes of Remington 9mm the next week. Every other bit of pistol ammo was gone, even the .25 acp. Plenty of shotgun shells and "huntin'" calibres, though.

Local Fleet Farm is well stocked, but they keep their pistol ammo locked up.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


IuniusBrutus posted:

What's the TFR hivemind opinion on the GSG-1911 pistols? I've heard the Chiappa ones are pretty awful...but internet reviewers seem to like them. What's the scoop on them? It's going to be entirely a cheap plinker, not a target or hunting pistol of any kind.

The GSGs are basically conversion kits on a semi-standard 1911 frame. Something like 88% of the parts are the same, but while the slide and barrell can be put on a regular 1911 frame, you can't put a .45 barrel and slide on the GSG frame.

I don't think anyone here has actually shot one, but I know I'd like to give one a try.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


According to ATI, these are the parts that are interchangeable on the GSG 1911.

quote:

Barrel Bushing
Front & Rear Site
Hammer
Trigger
Grip Safety
the Whole Main Spring Housing
Thumb Safety
Sear
Disconnector
Sear Spring
Grip Panels (but not the screws because they're in metric)
Mag Release
Sear Pin
Hammer Pin
Plunger Tube
Plunger Spring

Now if there was a list of what the main differences are.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


1919 Nagant Revolver - $100

Deal, no deal? I currently have a 1945 dated one.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Illegal Clown posted:

I service a couple plasma donating places and I always wondered how much they get. The first time I went into one was on the bad side of town and it looked like a mad scientist's lab. It was like they kidnapped homeless people and hooked them up to machines to harvest valuable minerals. The one I go to in another city is nicer, and yeah, it's just people reading, listening to music, or watching the TV. Yeah, I would do that for $200.

I have a BioLife literally a block from my apartment. I should really go in and see what it takes to start donating.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


How much should I be paying for a fairly clean Ithaca 37, 20" barrel, 7+1 magazine, bead site? No idea on age, unfortunately.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Boner Wad posted:

I agree, they are awesome but overkill.

As funny and awesome as the Zero Halliburton attaché cases would be, they look almost perfect except the price.

Zeros are excellent, you just have to look in the right places to get them cheap. Hint: Allen Bradley data recorders used to come in those cases.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Not really, anything under $100 shipped is a decent deal to me. I paid under $50 each for mine, but I also watched for them religiously.

The pain in my butt was finding foam. The precut inserts are ridiculously expensive for what they are. I ended up finding a place selling packages of 1" foam and cutting them to fit with a steak knife. I also had some eggshell pieces pulled from a realy crappy plastic pistol case that fit the lids perfectly.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Propagandalf posted:

Soooo I have more money than sense and picked up a Zero Halliburton case. It still has the briefcase liner and document foldout thing, but it's missing a retainer screw for one of the lid arms. I'd like to get some foam inserts for range duty, this thing should hold 3-4 pistols.

1) Am I doing A Bad Thing by tearing out the liner?
2) Are there any recommendations for foam inserts that are easily trimmable, don't cost as much as the case, and are possibly moisture resistant?

1. Do you ever intend to use it as briefcase again? That's about the only reason I wouldn't strip the insides. I got lucky, mine all came empty. Well, they had a data recorder installed, but it's only 4 screws to remove that.

2. You can buy pick-n-pluck inserts from a few places that are cut to fit. Probably cost you $60, though. For mine, I went on ebay looking for closed cell foam and happened to find some that was oil and moisture resistant. Got something like 20 pieces of 1" thick for about $25.

As for trimming, all you need is a decent serrated knife. Cheap steak knives are good for this. That's how I did these.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


The Pelicans are nice, and show up on ebay used for about half the normal price. Just have to make sure it has the foam insert, since buying those separate can be a good half of what the case itself costs.

For a few bucks more, you can find used Haliburton Zeros. Allen Bradley and a few others used them for housing data recorders and those show up on ebay for about half what the actual cases sell for used. I've got three right now, and managed to squeeze four full-size 1911s into one. For reference, it's a bit bigger than the 1500, 17.25" x 12.5" vs. 16.75" x 11.25".

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


I think the only questionable ones are the FEGs without the crossbar. There may be external visual differences(1911-style slide on the FM), but I think as long as it has the crossbar it's compatible.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Browning Hi-Power or one of the clones(Kareen/FM/FEG)

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


As TFR posters get older, they have more money, and people are more willing to spend on higher quality than looking for bang-for-the-buck. That said, I'm happy with the two I have, but will admit the fit and finish aren't the best. At the time I bought them, there really wasn't a "budget" option that seemed that much better for the increase in price.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Harbor Freight and Lowes both carry "aluminum" briefcases around $30. They're basically foil-covered plywood with aluminum corners and edges, but sturdy enough.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Bought a Remington Model 8 in .35 Remington this weekend. Dates to around 1908 or so. Good condition, everything seems functionally fine. Am I going to blow it up with the .35 Remington I can get at local sporting goods stores, or should I be looking for something else?

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Surplus 5.45x39 is still pretty cheap.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Good to know. Now I need to hit a few places and seee if anyone has anything in stock.

Serial on this is 79xx, and it was tagged as a Browning 79xx at the pawn shop. I get the 79xx, but no idea why they'd list Browning when it clearly has Remington on the barrel. It's something I didn't know I wanted until I picked it up. Now I need to get an Auto 5.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


They'll pop like popcorn in a fire. You're more likey to be injured by the brass shrapnel it creates.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Western Field was the Montgomery Wards house brand. Early ones were made by Stevens/Savage/Springfield, later ones were made by Mossberg. I have a couple of the Steven's made shotguns, and they're very nice.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Propagandalf posted:

You'll also need ambi cuts if your gun has an ambidextrous safety. They don't hurt if it doesn't.

The RIA Tactical ambi-safety(at least the one on mine) doesn't need the grip cutout. The sear pin has a notch that the edge of the safety rides in instead. It works nice, but can be a pain when putting things back together.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Safe should be when the lever is towards the back, and it should say "SUR" Fire is forwards, with "FEU"

The safety lever might function as a hold open, it does on the FN 1900 and the Bayard uses some of the design. It will not hold open after the last shot or on an empty magazine.

Lots of good stuff on those here, http://unblinkingeye.com/Guns/Bayard/bayard.html

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


I've had glasses since 6th grade, so like 26 years(christ, how old am I now?). Everytime I get a new pair I walk around for a day or so feeling disoriented, usually tripping over my feet because it seems like the ground is curved up at me.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Local Feet Farm has original VZ.61 Skorpion shoulder holsters in their milsurp section. Gave me a bunch of bad ideas for a concealed carry weapon.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


I use Ballistol, and I'm one of the rare few that likes the smell. Works fine as a general lube and cleaner, but I still break out the Hoppes for certain things as Ballistol doesn't do much(if anything) against copper or lead buildup.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Marlin 336 RC .30-30, dates to 1949. Overall good physical condition with minor wear on the stock and a bit faded bluing. Mechanically looks very good, shiny in the right spots and the action is smooth. Has had a section of rail added to the top of the receiver and comes with an older Bushnell scope. I can pick it up for well under $250, which seems okay to me when looking at Gunbroker and what I normally see them for around here(Green Bay, WI).

What sayeth TFR? I was looking for one in .35 Remington, but this one is calling to me pretty hard.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Not Nipsy Russell posted:

Good deal lots of fun, especially if you reload. Watch for a bent forearm screw, though. The single screw will often bend or even break under recoil. Makes for a loose forearm,. Also, if you plan ok shooting it a lot, the little pencil barrel gets hot, and can start stringing shots.

Edit: Found my video of .30-30 fireballs.

Well, $50 down and I'll go pick it up once my tax refund comes in(along with a Remington 81). I don't reload, but probably need to start since the 81 and my current Remington Model 8 are both in .35 Remington and over $1 a trigger pull. I had hoped to not add another caliber, but .30-30 is a bit easier on the wallet so I can't complain.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


So I know what the general opinion is on refinishing milsurp stocks, but what about a couple of non-milsurp-but-old grandpa guns? Picked up a 1949 Marlin 336RC and a 1937 Remington Model 81, and both have quite a bit of flaking of the finish. Wasn't helped by the pawn shop putting sticky tags directly onto them, either.

I don't want to completely refinish anything, since both guns have a fair amount of wear on the metal parts and a brand new finish on the stock would look wrong. So what are my options to maintain what is left and halt any more damage?

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Unless maybe they were warm blooded.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


ZenMastaT posted:

I don't have a lot of hope for anyone being able to help out here but I've about run out of options. I'm looking for a particular scope mount for a Remington Model 81 I picked up at a gunshow about a month ago. The mount in question is a side mount made by Williams, possibly called the "Williams-SM" and has probably been out of production for 20 years or so.

Here is the pattern drilled into the gun I bought:



And here is a picture of what the appropriate mount looks like:



I've checked midway, brownells, numrich, Williams themselves, Hoosier Gunworks and at least a couple other websites with no luck. Posted a help ad on the Remington Model 8 forums and was told gunbroker and ebay are probably the only places left which I've been checking regularly with no luck.

If you look through Williams catalog they make a side mount for the Model 81 called the "SM-KRAG" which is apparently not the right one. Anybody have any old gun stores nearby that might have something like this?

First, welcome to the club, the 8 and 81 are awesome.

Second, I'd have to say ebay and gunbroker are your best bet, but I'm going to guess you won't find one without it already being attached to a rifle. I'd say get some screws to plug the holes and call it good.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


#1 thing to check is that no one messed with the sear. Cock the gun, and without holding in the grip safety, give the trigger a good pull and release. Now push in the grip safety. If the hammer drops, it needs a new sear. I have seen a few with "trigger jobs" where a good chunk of the engagement surface of the sear has been chewed or filed away.

Honestly at that price I'd buy unless the bore is shot. Try to talk him down, of course, but unless it is truly beat it's worth that price.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Doc_Awesome posted:

Thanks guys. It doesn't look terrible looking at the pictures and he said the bore looked good and was shiny. Here are the pics I have of it.





I can't tell if this one shows more pitting or just some blemishes.


I'm not looking for a collectors piece, just something that I can not feel bad about shooting but still in decent shape.

That's pitting in front of the ejection port, but the rest appears to be rust spots that have been cleaned up. It's still a good buy at that price. I just wish .32acp was cheaper, they're such fun to shoot.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Gtab posted:

Surprisingly no one was an rear end in a top hat in last night's photo thread game.

Starting out with a Glisenti was a hell of an opening, though. Really, once the game starts it's difficult to derail it since you could always go back to the gun posted before the stopper.

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


Howard Leight, specifically this model

http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-R-01526-Electronic-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O

widefault
Mar 16, 2009


What sayeth TFR? Should I buy a barrel and receiver from a modern production .30-30 Winchester 1894 that was in a fire? Literally just receiver, barrel, and mag tube. Lever and internals are missing, finish is mostly rust, and the bore is of unknown condition because it was made into a really crappy wall hanger and I can't see to check. Price is $35.

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widefault
Mar 16, 2009


I have, which is why I was thinking about it. Just worried about finding the correct parts, which could be difficult since it is a post-64 and there are several variations.

Ah, I should just buy it anyway and if it's too big a basket case make a better wall hanger than it currently is.

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