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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Gtab posted:

it should not be remotely surprising to you that a branch of the US government which deals with firearms, explosives, AVGAS, radioactive material, giant loving turbines, and god knows what else, also wants to protect its interests from frivolous lawsuits or claims against it by providing a modicum of supervisory safety guidelines and documentation.

You forgot the part where they're not big on discretionary management and that its easier to make and enforce a blanket rule about these kind of things.

This isn't even all that uncommon in larger and non-government office buildings, enforced by the property management as a function of the occupant's lease.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

iyaayas01 posted:

Completely random gun cleaning related question...does Break Free or Hoppe's have the possibility of setting off a Carbon Monoxide detector?

CO2 detecters don't actually measure CO2 levels - that's too expensive. They measure O2 percentage. In new houses (sealed up tight) with fire places, we often get called out when people have been burning a good sized fire for many hours without opening a door or window because of a CO2 alarm activation. We never find anything wrong, because people leave the house and/or open windows. It had me confused, so I did some investigating. I actually left a 4-gas meter with one of the homeowners this was happening to frequently. Within a week it happened again, and they turned on the meter. 18% O2 (should be around 21%). The house was so well sealed up that they literally burnt up all that oxygen and the vacuum wasn't enough to overcome the seals on the doors/windows to drag in any make-up air.

So, unless you displaced that much oxygen, no, it's not the chemicals.

If its a gas vapor detector, I've had everything from diesel exhaust to cat piss set those off. Hoppes and CLP wouldn't surprise me in the least bit.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

nnnnghhhhgnnngh posted:

I thought spin was the entire idea, so what are the slugs rifled for?

I can't dig up the source right now, but supposedly the guy who first came up with a rifled slug thought that the rifling would act like and air foil and impart spin to it after it left the barrel. This has been shown to be totally wrong.

Now the rifling serves to allow compression or the projectile so you can blow the slug through various choke sizes without harming the barrel or yourself.

Fake edit: here. Not the source I was thinking of, and not really cited at all, but its the info I was thinking of.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Pitch posted:

I think the lacquer actually caught a lot of blame for what was fundamentally caused by chambers simply getting extremely dirty from a steel case's poor sealing. Realistically their cases weren't really coated in a material that would start melting at chamber temperature like so many Arfcom posters claimed.

Please don't presume. Because you're 100% wrong. <----IM A HORRIBLE JERK WITH BAD READING COMPREHENSION SKILLS

While I've never had a problem firing Brown Bear (polymer coated, not lacquer) out of my AR, the stuff on the casing absolutely can and will melt at chamber temperatures, depending on just how hot you get things. Its totally plausable on a semi auto without doing anything retarded like bump firing a couple of mags off first.

So how do I know this if my rifle fires it fine? Easy enough: I stupidly put in my .22lr conversion after firing several hundred rounds of the stuff without cleaning the chamber first. Everything was fine until I tried to remove said conversion bolt. It was fairly difficult to remove, and when it did get it out it had round gobs of the polymer stuck to the portion that sits in the chamber. I was able to take this off with some steel wool, but its effects are still obvious, several months and a thousand rounds later:



Posting crap list this makes you no better than the arfcommers you are putting down. <---STILL BEING AN rear end in a top hat With a tighter chamber, and letting this goo cool and harden between firings, there is no doubt in my mind it will cause problems.

Edit: Also, you can see pieces of the polymer missing on many of the cases that were fired in a hot chamber, especially if they were left in a hot chamber for a bit before firing.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Aug 8, 2010

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Pitch posted:

:raise:

Aside from the fact that I only said anything about the lacquer. Polymer casings remain a problem that the US government's put no small amount of money into solving without progress.

Sorry, I obviously misread your lacquer/polymer.

That being said, I've experienced WORSE chamber fouling with lacquer (some old wolf junk I got my hands on) and it was primarily something other than powder fouling. That something else pretty much has to be lacquer. I just wasn't stupid enough to put the 22lr bolt back in after that batch. I would start having issues at round counts near 100 and would have to clean the chamber. With polymer, I've yet to experience a failure with round counts up to 400 or so.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Independence posted:

I might have to send her to a class that deals with self defense with legal ramifications.

Independence posted:

we don't have a peephole and the wife isn't interested in getting a new door.

You might want to look into this magical spinning device called a drill. With one of those, you can install your very own peep hole in under 5 minutes.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Cyrano4747 posted:

IF you've got a foam case or something just lay them down next to each other.

The best part is that it will rust so badly it will be totally safe (inoperable) in short order.

Repeat after me: Foam cases are not for storage.

Most of them even have stickers/tags on or in them now that say this because of how many people ruin weapons leaving them in there.

If the OP must put this in a foam case, at least get a storage/anti corrosion sock to put it in first. It would be a shame to see a nice new rifle get hosed inside of 2 months while in storage.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Plasma1010 posted:

The sound of a Shotgun would generally scare any animal away, which is really the purpose of the gun.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Anjow posted:

My problem is I don't know where to start. I can't get my head around the calculations to figure it out for myself, despite trying. Also, unfortunately I only have a maximum of 35y to work with when pinning things up to look at, since that's the largest range we have at the airgun club and I don't have any land of my own.

1 MOA at 100 yards is 1.0471996". At 35 yards its .3665" (1.0471996 x .35).

Make lines on paper that far apart. Put it at 35 yards.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

dhrusis posted:

I would be using it for long range practice, etc. Kind of like a wanna be sniper would. Also, hunting. Would prefer this thing be real accurate without being multiiple thoudands of dollars.


I would prefer a more common cartridge I think, in case I got tired of handloading and wanted to buy some match grade stuff straightaway... think this would still suffice?

This has mostly been covered, but your price range will not buy much more than the optic you would need for this setup. If you already figured that in and your price was just for the rifle, you're basically buying a Rem 700 or a Savage bolt action. Not sure why you want semi so much, but it's not happening at that price.

My FAL is freakishly accurate (for a FAL), and my 1/2 of the price used Rem 700 outshoots it easily. FYI, $600-ish FAL, 2 MOA, maybe less if all is going well, on Federal Gold Match. 1964 Rem 700, $325, 1 MOA or less all day long on the same thing.

2 MOA is pretty drat sad looking at 800 yards.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

dhrusis posted:

Thanks for this.

What about a 2010 Rem 700 in .30-06. Are these safe for consumption or do I need to get an older one (1964, etc).

Other than likely paying more for it, I'm not aware of any problems with newer Remington 700s, other than possibly not having quite as good aesthetics (I think the wood was better on the older ones). Since you'll likely want to put another stock on it to play sniper anyway, who cares?

If you find a used one in good shape for less, go for it. They're tanks.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Cyrano4747 posted:

Alternatively, you can always just buy an aftermarket glock barrel for shooting lead out of. They're widely available and fairly inexpensive.

...and will quickly pay for themselves (about $100) with the reduced cost of ammo you can now safely run.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

bunnielab posted:

Honestly, cutting the handles off and sticking 4 50lb weights in the bottom will render them more or less imposable to move.

But don't most serious thieves roll with handles, a drill, and a pop rivets for just such a situation?

I may have just paged someone in my ignore list.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Chantilly Say posted:

I'm told there's a trick to this, and I'm working on it in my backyard with airsoft (I can't close only one eye). Something about simply ignoring the input from your non-dominant eye.

In any event, as people have said, you always focus on the front sight.

Something that worked for me and some other people, but not for everyone: Put a small piece of tape on your shooting glasses that covers your front sight from your non-dominant eye. This ie easier said than done, so it will take some time to find the right spot and size (small!). Shoot like that for a while and it will help you learn how the proper focus feels with both of your eyes.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Ygolonac posted:

Hmm, are they capable of behind-the-head wear? Like this:

Protip: put your hat on first, then your earpro. Problem solved.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

DkHelmet posted:

What's the hivemind on shooting sunglasses that also have clear lenses? I'm rocking some new contacts that don't feel like linoleum and I'd like to keep my eyeballs in my head while shooting, both outdoors and in. I require something awesome.

I've been rocking these and they're pretty awesome (if you can get through all of the lame rear end Oakley markethype/stupid product names). The persimmon lenses they come with are really nice for outdoors on overcast days.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Sylink posted:

Is it easy enough to reblue something yourself or does it take a professional?

Did you even bother to search for how to blue something? Doing it right takes enough equipment and time that a one-off in your garage isn't feasible.

If you really want to re-blue something, it's probably not worth it as 1.) you're destroying the value of an old firearm to make it looks better to you or 2.) its such a common firearm that it would be cheaper to just buy another one that isn't beat to hell.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Black Stormy posted:



I know this is a dead issue now, but that is a loving b-square rail on top. Every last one of those pieces of poo poo should be collected, melted down and reformed into something to stab the people who made them.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Gray Stormy posted:

Try it with pistol powder for even better results!

Dont ever do this please God dont

There are valid compressed loads for pistol rounds using pistol powder. I've never made one, but there are many listed in the latest Lyman's book.

That being said, the measurement used is not "fill the case".

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Itchy_Grundle posted:

Price check: used Century FAL (NY legal) with 8 mags for $799. Good or bad deal?

Seems to be in good shape but I'm not an expert on this rifle. On consignment at a local shop.

That might be OK. Be sure whether its commonwealth or metric. Commonwealth (inch) mags are more expensive and more difficult to find.

And because its a Century, you're going to want to test fire it/get a money back guarantee or something. Mine is a Century and it runs great, and is quite accurate for what it is. I've fire another one from Century that appeared to be the same thing and it was a short-stroking, jamtastic disaster. Century had some problems with getting the gas block lined up with the barrel port supposedly, and if you have a short stroker/one that only works when the gas it dialed all the way up, you likely have that problem. Its not insurmountable, but for that price the thing out to work properly without giving you any bs.

Also know that the bolt won't hold open on the last round because of some bone headed "design" decision Century made, but you can lock it open by operating the manual actuator behind the mag well.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

I can't find a whole lot of current pricing info, but am looking at a Beretta BL-3 26" O/U in 12 gauge. Looks to be in immaculate shape. Anyone know what something like that might be worth?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Give me Flibbity posted:

Every time I hook up with a girl who's hotter than me I always have this irrational fear in the back of my mind that's like "this probably isn't for real and she's luring me somewhere so her and her boyfriend can rob me." That's why I always keep a .22 short clenched between my balls and my rear end.

Do you use an adhesive taint holster, or did you get the piercing?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Bummey posted:

Wouldn't the longer barrel increase the amount of spin the rifling imparts on the bullets, thereby increasing its stability and accuracy?

Stabilized is stabilized. If its spinning fast enough for the weight and profile, making it spin faster just fragments the projectile.

And if you needed to make it spin faster in a shorter barrel, you just change the twist rate of the rifling.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

thermobollocks posted:

but once you get "enough" it's not like it'll spin faster or slower based on barrel length.

Actually, it will, assuming there is enough powder/pressure that the longer barrel increases the projectile velocity and given the same twist rate between the two barrels.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Cyrano4747 posted:

If the scope is anything like the other scopes from that era I've seen it won't be that impressive compared to anything modern. They're 4x, I know that much. They're also ginormous, seriously, look at it in comparison to the size of the loving rifle. It looks like they're selling online right now for between $250 and $350 just based on being old and having some collectors looking for them.

The SUIT is a hell of a nice scope for the price, especially considering its age. I'd suggest you use one before (understandably) lumping it into the category of other scopes of that era. Good examples rival modern optics at the same price point and higher.

Yes, it's big and heavy. So is a FAL. And it BELONGS on there, for those who are into that kind of thing.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Frankie posted:

If I get free transfers, and don't ever plan on carrying a pistol concealed, is the glock 19 worth the extra money as opposed to this? http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F1Glk17&name=Glock+17+9mm+Handgun&groupid=3

I only plan on using it at the range shooting steel, and would like an inexpensive, decent modern pistol with inexpensive magazines.

You need to borrow/rent both if you haven't fired them. For me, I shoot better with a 17/34 (full sized) and its more comfortable in my hand. Plenty of other people's hands fit the 19s grip better. It's really entirely dependent on you.

If carrying isn't a concern (not that its difficult to carry a 17, just not a comfortable as a 19), I'd go with whatever is the right size for my hand, regardless of the size/weight.

Also, if your hand fits the 17 well, the correct answer is Glock 34.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

priznat posted:

The Glock 34 really intrigues me, what are the main benefits to the longer barrel + slide? sight radius? more recoil mitigation? Looks cool?

Sight radius. I find it makes a big difference.

Recoil is the same. In order to use the same springs and not make the thing front heavy (I assume), the slide has a cut out on the top of it to make it the same weight as a 17 slide.

And, yeah. It looks cool. Like fuckoff huge cool compared to most of what you see on the ranges around here.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

priznat posted:

Ah ok I was wondering if it changed the recoil much. Not that there's a huge amount with most 9mms anyway.

It's going on "the list" of guns I must try and then perhaps buy now.

It seems that its real popularity is from IDPA guys. It's the largest thing you can fit in "the box", and comes from the factory with all of the goodies you'd want for IDPA (3.5 lb connector, extended slide release) so you can shoot a totally stock pistol and not worry about having to prove that it came that way or that whatever thingamabob you put on your pistol was available on it as an original option at some point.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

walrusman posted:

Some of the longer shots get really difficult when you're flinging less lead downrange with each trigger pull. There might be shotgun games I don't know about, that allow people to practice with their small bird guns, but I don't think anyone would recommend shooting trap and quail with the same shotgun.

Ironically enough, you can't even effectively shoot crazy quail with something that you'd want to hunt an actual quail with.

drat. I miss shooting that game. It needs to warm up. I'm kinda done with the winter.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

SadWhaleFamily posted:

And as far as I know, there's no legal pathway to updating the address on your license.

There is no legal DUTY to do so. But they absolutely will update your address for you if you bring in 2 forms of ID, and then you'll get your renewal notice to the proper address. They didn't reissue the card for me, but the next renewal had my proper address. This may or may not be different with the recent switch to statewide standardized licenses.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Dr Ozziemandius posted:

The price of .223 isn't a problem, but I've not really shopped for bulk .308, so I'm kinda curious as to what prices I can expect.

Double.

Feeding my FAL hurts so good.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Does anyone know where I can get my hands on a mount for my Trilux SUIT scope? I've had it for months if not years and it NEEDS to go on my (inch pattern) FAL. It current has an AR handle mount.

I'm torn between a proper dust cover mount or a Picattnny mount for the Trilux and FAL. I currently have a B-Square Picattnny mount on the FAL, which is USELESS based on my attempting to zero another scope on it, so I'll definitely be replacing that POS if I go Picattnny.

Any pointers to reasonable solutions here would be appreciated. I'm not finding much with the googles.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Tubgirl Cosplay posted:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5833/avs%7CManufacturer_1=DxzzxSxzzx%20ARMS/Product/FN-FAL-SA-58-SCOPE-MOUNT

Do not buy the one direct from DSA. It's the same model, except cheaper because it's entirely hypothetical.

OK, I appreciate the recommendation, but that's the easy piece. I still need a Trilux to Picattnny mount if I go this route.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Tubgirl Cosplay posted:

Tapco?

Mine came with one, sloppy seconds from Miso and Not Nipsy, far as I know they had no complaints

I don't either, but seeing as I spent the last few months waiting on that DSA cover and consequently never got to see it in action that might not count for much.

I'm probably not explaining myself well enough here.



It's either find that piece or skip the Picatinney and go with the "proper" FAL dust cover that has the integrated Trilux mount.

Also, I'm not sure Tapco is ever the answer.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

iyaayas01 posted:

Hahaha, that's like the FALoVPD

Maybe I should find an AR carry handle and mount the Trilux with the carry handle mount on that.

So, follow up post: Where can I get a 4 to 5 inch tall cheek riser that will fit on my FAL stock? I want it to be classy, so something that I can use a minimal amount of duct tape to attach is preferred.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Tubgirl Cosplay posted:

You're really not in any position to be brand snobbin' with that thing.

I'm not sure how anything said about Tapco could possibly be construed as brand snobbing in the same post as picture with a B-Square rail on a CAI-built beater. I'm just trying to make sure that the next thing(s) that go on top of it actually hold a zero rather than stringing shots in a vertical line, and my experience with Tapco thus far as been about on par with B-Square (that is currently sitting on the rifle and causing that problem).

What I didn't realize is that you meant Tapco actually makes the SUIT to Picatinney mount. I'll look for that.

Thank you for the help on that......and....sorry for offending you I suppose?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Cucaracha posted:

FALs. .... Anything to avoid?

The one I've been posting about is a Century built one. When I got it it had barely been fired because the gas port wasn't lined up properly and it undergassed (which is how I got it cheap). I've seen this same issue as well as many others on the CAI built ones. Also, the bolt doesn't lock back (they just didn't make it work) and mine is an inch pattern which is less common so finding things that matter between metric and inch pattern is harder.

So my basic advice is avoid inch pattern unless you just can't pass up the deal and you should probably avoid CAI built ones unless you can throughly test them first. Any maybe even not then.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Cucaracha posted:

Is there an easy way to tell a metric gun from an incher?

Yep....here's my book mark on that: http://www.centuryarms.com/receivers.htm

The dead giveaway is the folding cocking handle.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Hey all! Long time no post.

So I've been doing some work in my barn lately and found this stuffed between a pole support and the siding:



Some light work with 0000 reveals:





What rifle do I need to buy to complete this bayonet?

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

Well that didn't take long, thanks!

So based on that ID I 0000'd the other side a bit and I think I can see RIA and 19<something>2, which should mean it's a 1912 based on when RIA produced them.




Rhandhali posted:

If you have a battery charger and some scrap iron/steel you don't care about you can use electrolysis to get the rust off of it. Works like magic.

That's the plan, but everything is a disaster in the shop right now because I was pouring the remainder of the concrete floor. Once I'm settled (like getting my benches out of my driveway) I'll get the tank set up again and see how it comes out.

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