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Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


thermobollocks posted:


My question: What the hell do I do about the rings forming in my .357 cylinder when I shoot .38? I've tried brass-brushing the piss out of it with some Hoppes, but no dice.

.40cal brass brush. Just need it a taaad bigger than the .35 caliber bore brush yer using. Yeah, you'll wreck the poo poo out of it, but they're cheap enough.

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Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


infrared35 posted:

Okay. NIB (and in stock locally) S&W 642 with lawyer lock for $450 plus tax or NIB (but ordered from a distributor) no-lock 642 for $440 plus tax? Seems like a no-brainer to go for the no-lock gun, but for ten dollars more I can have the other one TONIGHT.

And I will be SUPPORTING LOCAL BUSINESSES




Pre-lock all the way.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Insane Totoro posted:

Buck Mark Contour 7.25 URX for $450. Brick and mortar store, so sales tax. Probably have to wait a week or two for it to come in. Worth tit?

Ehh, show em off and see if they'll knock off $50 :sonia:

Seems decent price, but I'd try for $450 out the door (tax, title, vehicle processing fees). Use a wad of $50s instead of the debit/credit card.

rossmum posted:

My rifle (along with dad's rifles in the same safe) has some sort of furry-looking poo poo all along the length of the bore. I have no idea what it is but I'm almost certain it's not rust; my rifle is totally rust-free elsewhere and totally fuzz-free elsewhere. I cleaned the poo poo out of all of them as usual. I can't think of anything I could've done wrong/forgotten but this is the second time running that there's been poo poo in there. Whatever it is it's a bitch to get out, but once out, it seems not to have done any damage. I'm not shooting corrosive (and dad's rifles sure as all gently caress aren't), there are silica packets in the safe with them, and there's no signs of rust (well, on my Enfield; dad doesn't clean his rifles nearly as often or as well as he should, so his have a few minor spots here and there every time I check them).

I'm stumped. Anyone have any ideas what it might be? My only real guesses are either some kind of mold or dust, but I have no idea why either would settle inside the bore but nowhere else.

Does anything show up on the patches when swabbing? The only thing I could think of would be linty-as-poo poo patches that are leaving crap in there. (or spiders)

Cheap Bourbon fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jun 18, 2010

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


rossmum posted:

Nothing noteworthy, just the usual carbon. I did notice they were leaving some lint, but if that's what it is, it must be loving breeding.

If you have black stuff coming out after storage, I have no clue, it is a mystery....


The lint _might_ be explained by oiled linty patch depositing stuff that dries out/expands after the solvent/oil evaporates..

(okokokok, its a long-shot.. hoping someone else can offer a reasonable explanation)

The fact that you examine the guns regularly and its not red-rust, makes me feel good.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


WimpBastard posted:

Most any kind of metal polish will do the job. My favorite is brasso.

I'd avoid the brasso. Anything with ammonia is terribly bad for nickel-plated guns (hence the Hoppes being bad as well).

Flitz or Simichrome are safe for the finish.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Ok,

So given that ammonia-based cleaners are bad for nickel-plate finishes, what is the prescribed method for cleaning your nickel-plated sissy-pistols? I've got a 586 that needs something more than CLP can deliver. Any better options than hoppes #9?

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Good gawd....

Silenced 12ga in a home defence situation?
1) Slice the pie with another 9" of bbl length
2) Use it and lose it, whether or not its justified, count on having that sucker sit in the local PD until the trial is over
3) Buck Fever - Yeah, you'll probably get hearing damage over the long term but in the short term, you'll never know it happened.

There's no way I'm attaching an NFA item (for those who live in the states) to a HD device, yer up poo poo creek if it you ever decide to use it (with time and money). Besides, when the grandkids are wondering why you can't hear them, you can always tell them, I did what I had to do I didn't use no pussy earplugs or suppressors. :clint:

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Correct, I should have thought it through....

It's going to disappear until you are found not guilty.

(that and I'm sure as poo poo not going to trust Ye Ole Public Defender to speak for me in a homicide case)

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Uncle Caveman posted:

Are we? In know the VA House approved a CD bill in 2008, but it was killed by the Senate. As for suppressors & HD, I'm not sure, but it is a no-no to CCW a suppressed pistol, or even a pistol with a barrel capable of mounting a suppressor (threaded/QD/etc).

AFAIK and I'm not a lawyer....

No VA is not a castle doctrine state, but case law strongly suggests that we are close to it.

As for CHP with a suppressor, there's nothing that specifically prohibits it (§ 18.2-287.4 -- if the manufacturer designed it for use, except in certain cities without a valid CHP or other disclaimers) so, therefore it must be lawful. Basically, its a whole lot of loopholes but I'm not going to be the one who gets the front-page story.....

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


kuffs posted:

I was just about to ask a similar question. Is non-chlorinated brake cleaner safe for nickel finishes?

hate to thinly-veil-bump my own question, but whats a safe nickel cleaning method?

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


infrared35 posted:

CLP is probably safe. I hope it is - I just used it to clean the hell out of a nickel-plated gun. According to the MSDS, there are no ammonia-based compounds in CLP. It seems like pretty tame stuff... which explains why nobody really likes it as a cleaner or as a lubricant. Or even as a protectant.

I tried CLP on the pistol, but its simply caked around the cylinder with residue from my new-found love of 4756 reloads. I do have the option of re-plating it thru S&W Performance center for less than $300 (if I ruin the finish, (it was ugly, but the price was right) but that requires me to spend money on a gun I barely have $300 in it.



edit: And Mr RWB, whoever you are, your SO/widow sold the best gun I ever shot to a store who cut me a deal because I complained about the spider-webbed finish. You sir, had one of the finest guns to ever make it out of the factory in the dark days, I hesitate to compromise the mechanical accuracy of this firearm.

Cheap Bourbon fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Jul 4, 2010

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


I.W.W. ATTITUDE posted:

Sorry, this isn't a question about a physical gun I own, it's a question about ballistics, and about a fictional show. I just figured one of you guys would know the answer.

So I'm watching "The Wire" and the characters are talking about a guy who tried to kill himself by shooting himself in the heart with a .44 caliber handgun. This prompts eye-rolls from the police, and it's revealed that he ended up with a nonfatal "contact wound" and a nickname for being stupid.

So, my question is: why doesn't shooting yourself at point-blank with a .44 completely destroy whatever part of yourself you aim it at?

Sheeeeeeiiittttt
like been said before, its all about shot placement and not caliber..

(Plus I like telling my supervisors and managers, Sheeeeeeeiiiitttt when presented with a difficult situation)

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Inspector_71 posted:

Ok well I guess that I have a trustworthy face because cops have never searched my car during a traffic stop, even when it reeked of beer once.

The only time I've ever had an officer of the law open up my car was by Canadians at the border actually. I'm 99% sure they thought I was smuggling guns or something because the guy at the window asked me if I had any at least 4 times.

EDIT: Also does anybody know where I can find figures on the amount of NYC gun ownership (not carry) permit applications there are vs how many are approved?

EDIT2: And how does gun certification/de-certification in CA work?

I'm late to the party here, on one hand I trust that if you do the right thing, everything will be fine. On another note, it seems as if there are people who are pretty much trying to do the right thing then get screwed over. See "Gregg C. Revell v. Port Authority of New York and New Jersey"

tl;dr version of the case is "Dude flies through NJ, misses connecting flight, airline screws up and sends dude to destination on a bus. Dude finds his luggage (and checked gun) was not on the bus. Dude goes back to airport to get luggage and misses his bus. Dude gets a hotel room with his luggage comes back to airport to finish his trip and is arrested/convicted. Federal court rules that 926A did not apply.

Seems like your journey with 926A protection covers getting gas, taking a poo poo, having dinner, but not visiting Aunt Bernice.

Cheap Bourbon fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jul 11, 2010

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


I'm not a lawyer, and my google-fu is failing, so if I'm wrong, I'm wrong.

I'm not sure if he served any time, but paid fines and spent a fuckload of time in NJ courts (he was from UT).

Its one of those things where "You might beat the rap, but you can't beat the ride"

I can't find a news story or blog entry, but if the link I saw was accurate, he spent something like 2 years in court fighting this crap. If I read the case properly, he was originally denied protection via 926A and re-filed under 4th amendment protection and that was given "Summary judgement" against him (that's bad, right?)

I figured that if he won, I'd find all sorts of stuff from gun boards saying "yeaah, we beat NJ!!" but I cant find that...:ohdear:

Charged in '08, resolved March '10

I presume that there might be protection from driving cross-country, but given this guys luck, I'm not about to travel from VA to CA via NY/NJ to find out. I just don't have the time (and something in me says I'm being a bad person for not wanting to at least, try).

Cheap Bourbon fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Jul 11, 2010

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Eat This Glob posted:

I blue myself...

I lent my father in law a Ruger Standard (Mk I) .22. He somehow hosed up the bluing in the two weeks he had it. There's a spot where something ate through. The spot is just above the safety and is about .25" high by .75" long. The thing doesn't have a ton of sentimentality for me nor did it cost me much money, but it is a bicentennial edition stamped "Made in the 200th year of American liberty." He offered to have it re-blued.

So the question gents is, do I take him up on the offer or I just leave it? It's the second "newest" gun I have. I'm a history guy and a milsurper at heart and I know where I am when it comes to "history." I just don't know where this damned gun stands as far as that is concerned. I'm leaning towards just leaving it.

He has sweaty thumbs and didnt wipe down your gun. :P

I dunno, its not particularly collectible, doesnt hold sentimental value to you, I'd keep it as is. Getting it re-blued would probably be a significant portion of the amount you paid . If you do decide to get it re-blued, Ruger has (had?) very reasonable prices for this service. $80 for a factory re-blue job which doesn't seem terribly unreasonable.

fake edit: Hahah, they charge $35 to reassemble your "Box of Ruger" when you can't get it back together

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


bunnielab posted:

While I agree, I think DA/SA had a place when no one had figured out how to make a decent DAO trigger. I dislike manual safeties on people guns and would prefer a DA/SA over a SAO on a carry or bedside pistol. If the situation permits one can always thumb the hammer back but if not the gun is ready to go with just the trigger pull.

It took a july weekend of 95+ degree 90% humidity at an advanced pistol class to make me dislike manual safeties (my el-cheapo Inox 92FS). Failure drills were a complete wash with me. Hrrm, don't want to derail but manual safeties are the work of the devil

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


_firehawk posted:

So I was over at my father in laws house today and he shows me a gun his father (my wifes Grandfather) just gave him. It looked to be a S&W Model 30 in .32 S&W Long with an original box of ammo from 1972 with the receipt from the gun store. The blueing looked amazing and I was in such awe that I forgot to snap a picture. Not that he is looking to sell it, but what is such a prize worth considering original receipt and ammo from 1972. It looks to have only had the original 6 rounds put thru it as only 6 bullets are missing from the ammo box.

Positives: Its a pretty much NIB SW with some blueing techinques from the 50's/60's but before teh Bangor Punta era put an end to craftsmanship

Negatives: its an unpopular caliber....

Its an awesome gun, nonetheless, one of the last of an era of mass-production and cost-cutting measures.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


infrared35 posted:

158-grain lead semi-wadcutter hollow point.

....backed up with some old school IMR SR4756 @ 8gr in a .38spl cartridge.....

Or, thats "The Load" when I hear it....

*Please note, that load waaaay outta spec, but thats what Speer was publishing in 1970.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Fremry posted:

Anyone want to give a good write up on checking revolver timing? I have been seeing some pretty good used wheel guns coming into my local shop, and I want to be able to tell within an acceptable degree the quality of the timing.

I can tell when it's horrendously off, but I'd like to be able to tell with a good amount of precision.

The quoted piece is good, I'll add in a linky-link I used.

Once you give it the once-over, the obvious signs of bubba-gunsmithing include, but are not limited to: sideplate doesn't line up, screws are "dished out", re-blued finishes, nickel finish when the gun only came in blued, chopped/hacked barrel lengths, non-factory, or just wrong grips, mismatched serial numbers (really only applies to older guns), excessive flame cutting on the topstrap/forcing cone.

I like my shooters so if you just want to go blastin' obviously check for function, but don't pay collector prices.

I also like my collector-esque pieces (none of my guns are truly collector pieces, they get shot and taken care of, but I want the nicest one I can afford) so if a gun interests you, research it beforehand and make sure its worth that $800 pricetag. Poor function, gunsmithing, mismatched pieces, non-period correct grips, re-bluing, in my book, knock huge percentages off the price of a gun. In addition, "Special Editions" and non-factory engraved models are really like cars. Its still the same drat gun unless there's something absolutely rare/desired by collectors. My hobby is Smith and Wesson revolvers, so a generation difference also influences prices -- a couple years difference in the gun might mean a $200 price increase/decrease to me. If something strikes your fancy, post something in the wheelgun thread and I'm sure we'll give you some apocryphal, or at least, wildly inaccurate advice on your purchase/sexual orientation/taste.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


ChlorineTrifluoride posted:

So, I have a line on an in the box Colt Trooper Mark 3. It looks like it has been shot once. I think I can get it for $350, maybe $300. (I know they will probably just take whatever I offer them, and I don't want to take advantage of them).

I had a look over it, and I wasn't terribly impressed with it. It's pretty, but the double action trigger is pretty bad (maybe it needs oil?) and it just didn't seem as nice as an S&W or even a Ruger to me.

The only Colt I own is a 1903 and I love everything about it. This Trooper has not given me that same thrill.

Am I crazy? Is this why they don't sell for a huge amount of money? If I do buy it will I grow to love it, arranged marriage style?

I might be talking out of my rear end here, but I thought the troopers were functionally the same as the pythons, just not as high-polish finished?

Even if I'm wrong, the market has a huge fuckoff Prancing Pony tax, so $350 would be a hell of a deal for a visually clean, functioning colt (revolver).

Edit: abuse the prancing pony tax and pick it up to flip it for something you want. The local fudd stores would love it as trade-fodder.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


ChlorineTrifluoride posted:

Yeah, if I buy it, its to keep it.

If I could flip it I would just give this couple whatever extra I got on it anyway. They need the money more then I do.

The funny thing is, when I started looking, the Colt Tax just doesn't seem to be in effect for these. Oh sure, people *ask* for a lot of money for them, but they don't get it. I really think $350-400 is about what it is actually worth, if they wanted to sell it in a reasonable amount of time.

That's a drat shame. I love me some wheelguns and I'd gladly pay $350 for that gun just to have it in my safe (if its in the condition you describe). If I had the extra money and wanted a new gun, $350 (or $300 for friend-of-the-family prices) that would still be a steal for a quality firearm from a name-brand.

The Troopers I've shot (granted, all two of them) have been of good quality and function. I would not hesitate to buy it.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


walrusman posted:

Guys I'm doing a little light straightening-up and I've noticed that I have seven different calibers of live ammo sitting on my dresser. This doesn't count the ammo sitting in my carry gun, and this dresser isn't even in the same room as the gun safe.


What does this mean? :ohdear:

Either we have too many dresser guns or we just need to clean up the bedroom....

I'm a little of both, but I only have 5 calibers hanging out.

Otherwise, this might explain it.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Inspector_71 posted:

What is the most reliably cheap brass-cased .223 brand out there? I shot the last of my 300 round of Prvi today and gun-deals.com isn't helping.

Conversely, will firing bog-standard Wolf out of my Mini-14 gently caress it up? I know I've heard that I shouldn't use steel-cased rounds but I dunno if that's backed up by anything.

Pretty much I'm saying what's the cheapest brand I can find that won't gently caress up my Mini-14/any AR I find in my travels.

I'm probably talking out of my rear end, but steel cased poo poo used to be covered in that god awful lacquer that tended to gum up the works with the steel not expanding like brass and such.

I don't have an answer, but my reloader in me wants brass, but if I'm going to leave the cases, I wouldn't discount any of the recent manufactured (2002+) steel case stuff out there. Aside from the dubious argument that steel wears out extractors faster, the cost difference seems worth it.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


walrusman posted:

Just shoot steel-cased, all of you. If 50 rounds of steel cased ammo wrecks your extractor I'll eat my hat.

This is TFR and if a mag and a half chews up an extractor, I'll provide the hot-sauce if you share the hat.

I'm talking relatively long-term on steel-cased vs extractor argument. You know, screw this argument, he's not reloading, whats the cheapest Eastern European/Ruskie ammo that will shoot good?

Edit, $35/200rd of federal value pack was 4 years ago.... I have the receipts stuck in the boxes.... (just sayin')

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


No way I'm buying the story about $0.17 CPR of brass ammo unless someone links that poo poo....($35/200rd Brass Cased)

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


thermobollocks posted:

Did you keep them oiled?


What about sticking it in the dryer with some rock salt and wet rags?

Dont forget to dry them out by hooking them to a tow-strap and dragging them down the fire-roads to air them out.

(yeah, get those suckers cleaned, oiled and in a less humid environment). Too dry and you worry about the wood stocks cracking.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Cyrano4747 posted:

Not ot mention leather leaches tannens which are just hell on metal.

I'll get some pitchers posted on a real world example. Kids, listen to what he says, don't do that.....

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Propagandalf posted:

Dan Wesson .22 for $450, worth it or not? 6 shots, blued, wood grips, half lug. I feel the urge to start a .22 revolver collection. It definitely isn't as nice as the 617, but I like the feel.

IMO no.

Dan Wesson doesnt enjoy the price premium that the S&W or Colts get.

For what its worth

I balked on a Dan Wesson set (.357 Mag) with 4/6/8 Barrel set @ $f400 (96%+ finish) 1 year ago. Original boxes, etc etc. I'm not trying to steer you away, but I think for the price and lack of BBL combos, there might be better deals out there.

FWIW, I've seen model 17's (not pre-17's or special models) in the S&W go for similar prices. If the price is right for you, by all means, grab it. If this were me, I'd still be shopping. Its not a _bad_ price, but I feel that you could do better. If they had multiple barrels and cylinders with the deal, my attitude could change.

Re-reading this as my pig smokes (drat the TFR derail about home-smoked bacon), gently caress no, $450 is out of the ballpark. That poo poo better be in shrink-wrap and have the full set of accessories for that price.


don't feel like posting twice:

Pitch posted:

Yeah TFR would never do anything tasteless and alienating the one time a person who had accomplished something noteworthy outside of SA bought an account in order to join a discussion of their work.



I found the thread, and holy poo poo..... if you have half the afternoon to waste, archives are totally worth it. I'm only on page 25/45 and the :psyboom: and :munch: are something to behold.

edit: now with linky-goodness.

Cheap Bourbon fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Aug 13, 2010

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Propagandalf posted:

Word, thanks. Doesn't even come with a box, but it has hi-vis sights. Gunbroker wasn't terribly helpful, but I forgot to search a few months back before I asked the question.

The same dealer (local boy, I like him) even considered my offer of $600 for both sets of D/W in .357. One with the 4/6/8 combo barrels and the 2nd with a 2 1/2" 10" bbl length.

That would be 2 guns with 5 bbl combos for $600/cash (plus tax) so I know sure as poo poo, there are better deals. Now, the only reason sir-Dipshit balked on the deal was that I felt I had to do more research instead of the impulse buy.....

1 year later, hindsight being 20/20, and poo poo...I should have 2 more revolvers with the snazzy insta-change bbls in just about any combo I wanted. :(

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Pitch posted:

That thread turned me into the bitter, angry poster I am today.

Holy loving poo poo..

page 28 of therefore referenced thread....post #11...Thats about all the spoiler you need....

Any more is just icing on the cake, much like the AI thread where the dude leases a nissan (worth $25k) for $45k wondering where he got ripped off (and thats just within the last year). Lurking w/o archives is so not worth it.....

And dont get me sidetracked with the Supica and Nahas 3rd edition to lay those numbers to waste.....

edit: and, no the pig has been in my freezer for over a year, that in pig-years means smokey franken-Penzeys-spiced slow smoked BBQ/TFR comedy goldmine goodness for at least a week. What can I say, except, "Today I didn't have to use my AK, I got to say, it was a good day"

edit: and shower-tits was good too... too bad she's full of crazy....

yet-another-fake-edit: where's the thread about the 2 quarts crazy in the 1 quart cup Goon-meet with our hero?

Cheap Bourbon fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Aug 13, 2010

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


infrared35 posted:

<rust problems>

Have you tried cosmoline?

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


infrared35 posted:

On an HD gun? That's used almost weekly for competition? :raise:

I don't mean to sound snarky, but cosmoline sounds messy on a gun that gets used regularly.

Its not snarky at all, I'm feeling punchy and offering the "stupid answer" for a legit question.

A more academic question, this came up with a co-worker.

Scenario: I have a AR-15 stripped-lower that was transfered on the 4473 as a Pistol. I decided that a pistol AR wasnt practical and I'm going to throw it onto a traditional upper with buttstock.

I said "I wouldnt do it, that thing was transfered as a pistol, its recorded as a pistol, and just in case, on the off-chance that someone audits that gun, somehow, in some situation (rogue ATF agent at the range) sees it, you might be in a bad situation (because you put a buttstock on a pistol making it an AOW or foregrip making it SBR?)."

Co-worker says (two weeks later) yeah, I think you're right, I had the manufacturer change the description so I should be OK.


Not that I care nor would raise any questions, who's interpretation is incorrect here. I'm not a lawyer, but I thought that the definition was set in stone once the manufacturer did their thing, further reinforced by the transfer paperwork.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Captain von Trapp posted:

It's my understanding that you can turn a pistol into a rifle with no legal problems, assuming you don't SBR it or something. But the converse is not true - once a rifle, always a rifle. As such I'm pretty sure you can build the lower into a rifle, but once you do it's a rifle now and forever and you can't make it back into a pistol-configuration AR.


Craptacular posted:

If an FFL transfers you a stripped receiver it's just that, a stripped receiver. It's not a handgun or a rifle or anything else until it's completed and can be shot.

If it's first completed into a rifle then you can't later change it to a handgun. If it's first completed into a handgun then it can be later changed into a rifle. If you change the handgun into a rifle, then don't change it back into a handgun later.

Thats what I was forgetting (Once a rifle, always a rifle). Ok, I was wrong, I was thinking it was how it was recorded on the 4473 (but the 4473 doesnt care about handgun vs long-arm, right?), but then again, my state has different requirements for long-arms vs handguns so I confused the two. That makes it (relatively) easy to remember. All was concerned with was federal regulation.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


infrared35 posted:

But they have meat!

And tasty, tasty ice cream.

They have both, but for a significantly cheaper price you can buy their stuff from your local grocery store (Freschetta frozen pizza, for starters, other brands include...

Some Schwan's Branding posted:

Red Baron®, Tony’s®, Freschetta®, Asian Sensations®, Edwards®, Mrs. Smith’s® and its own signature brand -- Schwan’s®.

Nothing against those propane and propane-accessory driving delivery Americans who peddle their wares to the outreaches of rural America, but you might be able to save a couple bucks the next time you are in the frozen food section..... (and still enjoy the fantastic tastes of the outstanding products, the Red Barron Buffalo Chicken Pizza is quite the staple of my household)

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


spankmeister posted:

I dunno but usually the answer is that what you are suggesting is illegal, it's a grip and a bipod. Being a bipod does not magically undo the fact that it's a grip so if you were to put that on it would have more than one grip and thus make it a rifle.

That was what you were getting at no?

I assume with the ATF that "If it could be possibly be construed as a violation, it is"

Of course, all that is theoretical, until you get unwanted attention.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Chantilly Say posted:

Er, "possibly construed" doesn't seem like the right way to think about it. It is a grip. It may also be a bipod, but regardless of this fact it is still a grip and in putting it on a pistol you would be putting a forward grip on a pistol. Even if you swear that, honest, you're only using it as a bipod, you will still be committing a crime.


Yeah, I guess my wording was less than ideal. I was thinking "Well, my shoes require a 14" string, and I just so happen to have a semi-auto rifle"

Crappy-crap, looks like they (ATF) redacted that ruling. Ok, file under "Stupid poo poo heard at...." thread.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Captain Log posted:

The Glock a thousand times over. Even though Hi-Point carbines are fun in the same way as a Heritage SA 22.

Keep in mind that's a Gen 2 Glock if you give half a gently caress. I'm sure it still runs like a champ.

Chalk another vote for the Glock. Bonus points if you prepare yourself to clarify "No, its not a .22 caliber glock, the model number is 22..... oh gently caress it, its a "Glock Fowty"

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Captain Log posted:

Do all generations of Glocks share holster compatability?

I will also go out on that limb and say yes. Except for the thicker framed glocks (21 etc?) they all fit the same type, full, compact, sub-compact.

Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


Aperture Priority posted:

Sorry to interrupt TFR BearChat™, but I have a question.

I picked up some Winchester Supreme Elite (:jerkbag:) 124gr.+P 9mm at a Wal*Mart because, well hell, it was cheap for defensive ammo.

Just wondering if this is an issue or something that can be ignored. Some of the rounds are worse than others.

Blow through that box and the other 3 boxes that you bought. If it all fires, I'd feel pretty comfortable with the 5th box. As long as they all cycled and extracted fine I don't think I'd feel too awful bad.

Any SD ammo is pretty good, there are some good ones and some "not-so-good" ones, but they all pretty much do the same thing.

If you're not comfortable with it for SD, get something else.

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Cheap Bourbon
Apr 13, 2010


and forget about a wife...

Reloading room in the front den? Of course, my definition of a front den might differ, but any room easily visible to the fairer sex would be a no-go....

(as others have said, plenty of power outlets, flat area for the bench, good lighting, and lessen the distractions, easy cleanup --no carpet--, good airflow if you don't have central air, privacy from the neighbors :tinfoil:, no cable TV hookups, etc...) Just a place to relax without distractions. Oh yeah, dorm-fridge/water cooler is a definite plus.... and a comfy chair.....

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