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igv9
Sep 3, 2006
Everything witty I could put here has already been said.
Backing up Number_6, I have a 2010 GT and it doesn't seem to get very cold when it's hot out. Another problem is that the black dash is huge and loves soaking up heat, if it's slightly warm inside the car then vent air is 5-10 degrees warmer, requiring air conditioning even if it's only 70 degrees fairenheit outside and you don't want windows down.

I find during the summer I just drive with the windows down everywhere. I have dark tint on the windows and a sun shield on the windshield so the seats don't burn me, then just roll the windows down and go. And yes, sitting in the 100 degree sun the seats will be painful, at the very least causing instant back/butt sweat.

I have been running AC on it's coldest setting that's not "max ac" with the recirculating on any day that has been north of 70F, and it has not gotten too cold for me yet, although the fan speed will be on low so take that for what it's worth.

The other side of this coin is that in the winter as soon as the engine is warmed up above the first hash mark I'm nice and toasty too.

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igv9
Sep 3, 2006
Everything witty I could put here has already been said.
I have a question about adding a hardwired cell phone holder to my car. I have a 2010 GT coupe and would ideally like to tie it in properly to the fuse box. I located the fuse box in the passenger foot well area behind the flimsy pieces of paper, and was surprised to see that all fuse spots contained fuses, even the ones marked "unused". Is this normal for ford vehicles, and if so does that mean the wiring harness has a powered wire running somewhere in the vehicle?

I was looking to just use an add-a-fuse, but would now like to avoid that as the pieces of paper attach to the fuse box cover that would no longer fit. Now I am curious as to if the unused fuses have a wire going somewhere I can re-route, or if they are blank and I can get my own wire end to clip into the plastic fuse block. Anyone happen to know without me ripping my car apart and playing trace the wire?

igv9
Sep 3, 2006
Everything witty I could put here has already been said.

Gwaihir posted:

Not enough empty quotes for this!

I do have a question about mine though.. I'm looking at getting some OEM style headlights to refit HID projectors in to, since I don't want to dremel the poo poo out of the originals (Apparently 2010+ headlights used some monster epoxy that has a melting point higher than that of the plastic housing of the lights themselves, leaving dremel work the only way to get them open). Only problem is that there are two different part numbers for OEM lights, one for V6es and one for the GT. I would guess that the difference might have to do with the stock fogs on a GT/wiring harness type stuff, but I'll be damned if I can find any decent info either way on what the actual difference between the lights is, and which one the Boss uses.

If I can't find anything after superbowl party weekend I guess I'll get up the :effort: to take the bumper/etc off and get the stock lights out to see what P/N they are firsthand, but, again, :effort:

If you take a look at pictures of the 2010+ headlight clusters you will notice that one model has the turn signal on the outside, and the other has the turn signal on the inside. This is if you are looking at the car head on. I'm not sure what differentiates what vehicles these go on, I thought it was HID versus not HID as the projector + bulb was deeper and so had to be placed differently. I could be talking about something completely different though because I didn't think the V6 versus GT mattered with this.

igv9
Sep 3, 2006
Everything witty I could put here has already been said.

Aberroyc posted:

I killed my battery after a year in my '11. Sounds like the trickle problem is still existent in the S197's. Free motorcraft 3 year replacement though, I'm cool with that.

I killed the battery in my '10 in a little under a year, but the replacement has held up since then.

igv9
Sep 3, 2006
Everything witty I could put here has already been said.
The snow thing is funny because I moved from Texas up to the east coast and had people tell me I couldn't drive my mustang in the winter because it was a sports car. Funny thing that since I have snow tires for it and a rear LSD so I have two tires hook up where most everyone else is driving the cheapest available SUV/truck with open differentials and all seasons.

Unless the snow is high enough that clearance is the issue how are my two back wheels driving me going to be worse than a truck with one wheel driving it? Tires are important and I run summers when it's warm and snows when it's cold and haven't had any more issue than any other vehicle out there. Modern traction control keeps me from doing anything stupid, but I run it in sports mode always so I can rear end steer around corners.

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igv9
Sep 3, 2006
Everything witty I could put here has already been said.

Necc0 posted:

Has anyone here replaced the head unit in a 2013? This thing has got me so fed up.

Also: Has anyone figured out what the logic is for when the windows are closing and you shut off the engine? Sometimes when I kill the engine mid-rollup the windows will reverse direction for some reason, but not always.

For the head unit look at http://maestro.idatalink.com It's pricey all said and done but you can get a stock look and keep all features supposedly. Radios that work with it are still rare and expensive so I haven't done it yet.

For the windows it is the pinch sensor reacting to the car vibration as the engine shuts down as buttcoins mentioned.

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