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Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

SouthLAnd posted:

I don't know if this is silly, but I've always been under the impression that if the wipers go on, so should the headlights.

Call me crazy I guess...

You're not crazy, it's what I was taught too. I want to say a few states have a law of "Wipers on, lights on"

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Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007
Picked up a 2011 5.0 today. GT Premium in Candy Apple Red. Over a 36k sticker, got them down to almost 8k below that. Here's my car with my nerdy self.






Got the automatic (I drive in heavy traffic a lot and after reading all this stuff on here and a few other forums, I called it quits on a manual :() but my god it's smooth. Drove home on the highway and had the cruise set at 60mph and felt like I was doing 35.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

Scabrous Teat posted:

You drive in heavy traffic a lot, so you got a hugely overpowered sports car but with an automatic transmission. Makes sense.

I never said I was a practical man.

Also, before this I owned a 2004 V6. I always regretted not going into debt for an extra year not getting the GT. Wasn't going to make that same mistake twice!

Aberroyc fucked around with this message at 13:59 on May 1, 2011

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

SlimManFat posted:

I have a couple of concerns on this car, I was wondering if someone could answer my questions. My speedometer often reads zero, only to prop back up to where it is supposed to be. Every now and then I catch it in my eye. It may or may not have happened to the tach too. My eyes might be playing tricks on me. What cause my speedometer to do that? Also, 'stang people, that scoop on my hood, could someone let me know if it is stock or or not. It's a 2002 V6, Manual transmission.


Doubt that's stock, but they made so many variations on the New Edge models it's sometimes hard to tell. That looks like the GT hood scoop on there, and I can't seem to find any sites that still listed the options for those year Mustangs. Also, my speedo would have issues when I put in a (LOL RICER) aftermarket gauge cluster which soon got changed out with an OEM replacement.

One word of advice from someone who owned a 2004 V6, be careful of that alternator. I had to replace mine 4 times by the time I just traded it in at 116k miles. Luckily it's the easiest alternator replacement you can ever imagine.

Aberroyc fucked around with this message at 11:56 on May 5, 2011

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007
Looks good, Offrampmotel! I agree with Devyl that it is a bit out of the ordinary. You see a lot of black with white stripes or red stripes, but I don't think I've seen many if at all with orange. Good combo!

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

mcmagic posted:

Finally after almost 11 weeks... Lava red!

http://imgur.com/a/2R9rB

That looks incredible. If I bought the 2012 that was going to be the color of choice for me.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

SlimManFat posted:

Changed the oil on my 2002 V6 today and the old oil filter slipped out of my hand as I was taking the fucker off. I covered myself in oil. God damnit.

At least it is easily accessible. I did this several times on my 2004 V6. You learn really quick to have the firmest grip possible when taking it off.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

shodanjr_gr posted:

Weee I'm getting paid this week and I think it's time to change the stock BFGoodrichs on my V6. Any suggestions on what I should look into (something all-season for a car that's my DD)?

What size wheels do you have? I'm assuming 16's. I used Sumitomo's on my 2004 V6 and they held up great even in the rain. Don't know how they will last after 25k miles since I traded it in right at that point.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/sumitomo-as-p01-225-55-16.html

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

shodanjr_gr posted:

I got the stock 16s now but I may :rice: it up to 18s...

I eventually put 17's on mine. I hated the stock rims, and figured why not. It ended up being something like 900 bucks rims and tires from American Muscle. Actually made the speedometer MORE accurate when used with my GPS. Although I can't say how accurate the GPS actually is.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

frozenphil posted:

If your idea of modding is just "do an exhaust and maybe a CAI and canned tune", get the premium trim from the start and be happy.

I am the definition of this. I don't really have the time to be spending every waking hour modifying my car to get an extra 0.02 seconds off my quarter mile.

This being said, I just ordered the Roush Axle-back and CAI from American Muscle. I have a tuner still from my 2004 Mustang, and I need to order another tune for it. Has anyone used an existing tuner, and ordered new tunes? I have an SCT X3 tuner.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

frozenphil posted:

Did you un-marry it from the 2004? If not, do that. If you don't have access to the 2004 you'll have to send the unit back to SCT.
VMP Tuning would be my canned tune recommendation with Lethal Performance a close second.

FYI, don't do business with American Muscle in the future. They're the reason for the anti-tuning TSB and they tried to cover it up.

Thanks, Phil. I was sure unlock the 2004 before I got rid of it. I will check them out.

I must have missed something about the TSB and them. I'll look it up.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

Diseased Yak posted:

Yeah the CS package really looks good in silver, I especially love how the wheels match with the body color.

Love the auto so far. I know I'll catch flack for not having an mt but eh, the auto is good enough for me.

On my '11 GT the biggest problem with the auto is the rolling stop. Sometimes it just won't move at all then surge ahead rather than moving gracefully forward. I've read a tune will take care of this, which I will be purchasing shortly after a CAI/Axle-back exhaust that is slate to arrive Tuesday.

Other than that, the auto is incredible. People have ridden with me when I've gunned it and expect a huge jerk at the redline shift always compliment how smooth the transition is (almost like a CVT).

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007
Just finished throwing on my Roush CAI and Roush Axle-back exhaust. CAI slapped in within 20 minutes.

When removing the stock exhaust, it was an absolute pain in the rear end to remove it from the hangers. That took a good 45 minutes (between both) to pull them off with all the muscle my scrawny self has. Once that was taken care of, it was about 15 minutes to put the new Roush exhaust on. I couldn't be happier with my choice. I liked the little details about how they actually include the clamps rather than re-using the stock ones like most others do. Sounds mean when stepping on it, but is still quiet a cruising speed.

I will make a video if you guys want it tomorrow.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

kronix posted:

I will agree with 3.55s first gear is stupid I almost never bother going wot until I'm in 2nd and even then it's risky

Even with my automatic, 1st gear is retarded as hell and I wait til 2nd or 3rd to put my foot down. I have the 3.15's.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

kimbo305 posted:

Most of their packages are extensive bolt-on affairs with some body-kit dressup. Reliability shouldn't be affected. Handling might not be fully thought out in some of the kits. I wouldn't look past one if it were selling at a good price.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think they also come with the factory warranty though which definitely helps.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

Krakkles posted:

Agreed. I bought a polish kit because it was ~$10 on amazon for the 3M kit, but I suspect the next move is going to be a new set of headlights.

I tried a few different kinds of polish kits for my old '04. Ended up spending almost as much as some replacements would cost on ebay.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

Krakkles posted:

Yeah, the only reason I went for this instead of the new housings is that it was about $9.

Definitely worth a shot for $9. My biggest problem is that they would re-oxidize fairly quick after.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

shodanjr_gr posted:

So my 2012 V6 is doing a noise that I can most closely describe as belt-like (as in the way a car with a belt problem sounds) on a cold start. This has happened twice so far at unrelated occasions...starts fading out right away and it is no longer perceivable after a minute or so...The other interesting thing is that is more audible from outside the car, I can't really hear it if I pop the hood and listen through the front...

It's one of those noises that I'm pretty confident the dealer will not be able to reproduce if I take it in for service and I'm about to go on a 3000 mile trip next Wednesday...

Any other 3.7L have encountered something similar? Apparently there is a similar TSB out but it refers to 2011 V6s with an early 2012 build date.

On my 2011 GT I will occasionally get a squealing/grinding sound when starting it. It's happened about 10 times in 19k miles. I can't really find much info on it searching some Mustang forums. Wondering if it's the same symptom I have.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

creamed corn posted:

Just have a question. I just bought a 2013 Mustang GT. I would like to have some nice sounding exhausts on it. I've gotten mixed recommendations from various people. I've heard borla, flowmaster, magnaflow, ect. What would you all recommend? Thanks.

I have the Roush Axle-back's that are reasonably priced and don't have any drone that I have come across. Just a little louder than stock at 70mph, but hitting over 4k RPM they are excellent.

Here's a vid (not mine). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eINYYrfQys

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

Rabble posted:

Sure, now that I'm at my computer I can provide links and photos.

First off, the difference is mainly in the distinction between sounds. Nothing is louder at the same volume, but you can really separate out the sounds instead of it being sort of "muddled" together. As you get louder the distortion that you would get from the stock speakers is gone as the replacements are made with a glass-weave cone.

An example would be to listen to a bassy song at medium volume, at stock you will start to notice that the subwoofer and midrange will blend together and start to overpower whatever highs (vocals etc) the song is trying to produce. After the upgrade, the subwoofer will still kick (as much as a door sub can), but now it won't drown out the highs.

-----
Install instructions with photos

The replacement speakers

Another slightly cheaper but still good pair of speakers

The Ford clip adapter (So you don't have to strip any factory wires)


The stock door speakers with its tiny tweeter and paper cones :(

edit: I didn't install an amp, but if you want to boost the sound then I'd recommend it. I feel like it's already plenty loud powered just off the head unit. (the door subs have their own individual factory amps)

I ordered the speakers and adapters last night. Should be here for a weekend project next week. Thanks for the write-up!

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

Rabble posted:

If you run off the stock headunit make sure that the little button on the tweeter is pressed in.

I pick my toenails :(

I will be dude. Thanks for the heads up.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

optikalus posted:

Was finally time for new tires on my '11 GT (Brembo). Had some Michelin Pilot Super Sports in 275/35ZR19 installed. Wow, it's like a whole new car. I can actually accelerate again! The grip is incredible both in straight line and in corners.

This is my next "mod." I've got 20k miles on my stock tires and they're starting to get some wear. Anything over 5k RPM and they start spinning in the first two gears.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

frozenphil posted:

Ford puts crap tires on these cars and pretty much always has. New tires are a worthwhile mod for any Mustang.

I agree. I think I'm going to go with the 245/40/19 front and 275/35/19 on the back. I know it's cliche but it seems to be the best option from what I have read outside of slicks.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007
I'd like to get a Panhard Bar on my '11 GT, but I'm not confident I can put it on myself being not even close to a guru on car tech. I would love to get some suspension mods going, but that is definitely my weakest point of knowledge. Should I go with a $150-200 bar or save my money and go with a more major job?

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

Tide posted:

Local dealer replaced the front LCAs; totally different car. Front end feels significantly tighter. Odd how they (bushings) deteriorated so quickly considering I don't drive on poo poo roads in my 8 mile commute every day.

Anyway, looking for a catback set up for a more aggressive sound but holy poo poo are they proud of them.

I just passed 28k miles on my 2011 GT. Starting to get some vibration between 45-80mph. It only seems to be really noticable on freshly/nicely paved roads. I have had my wheels balanced twice. I do have a few mods, but none should stand out for LCA's. It's a feeling like the bottom of the car is shaking, and I can see the passenger seat vibrating as well. Did your issue appear this same way?

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

Rabble posted:

So, I'm having an issue with my 2012 V6 manual. It doesn't seem like a big deal right now, but I want to ask just in case it's a symptom of a bigger problem.

Here's the run down: Whenever I fuel up (and as of right now, only when I fuel up) my car will have a very hard time idling until after I drive it for a while. The tach will bounce around and then drop super low and the car will almost stall out. I took a video of the idle where you can see what I'm talking about.

Rough Idle

If anyone has and ideas on what is going on and if it's serious, I'd appreciate it.

What octane are you using? I doubt this would have much to do with it, but I ran 89 (all I could get in the middle of nowhere) a few weeks ago and it ran like absolute garbage at idle in my GT.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

Radiohead71 posted:

I'm 5'8" and have owned an 11 GT for 2.5 years now. I have never once thought about a tall hood or a boat like car. You can use the height adj on the seat if you need to. The car has a long hood/engine compartment, but it's a v-8. The car is also heavy too, but with 412 hp it doesn't matter in the acceleration department. Braking and handling are affected more. Also, how much bigger is the current car vs. the 02? I'm too lazy to look myself.

Having an '04 previously, and now an 11 GT, it is quite a difference in size to me. They are two completely different cars however. My '04 was skinny and small. The '11 does feel bigger on the inside, but it will tear up a road like a regular sports car.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

Tide posted:

I've been piddlefarting around waffling back and forth about an exhaust set up. Pulled the trigger on a Borla Type S catback. After that, probably a CAI and tune.

I went with the Borla Type S axle-backs and I am not disappointed. I had the Roush on before that, and they just sounded too harsh. Really nasty sounding, but not smooth at all. The Type S is super quiet in the cab at idle, and is way more gradual as you go up the rev range.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007
I killed my battery after a year in my '11. Sounds like the trickle problem is still existent in the S197's. Free motorcraft 3 year replacement though, I'm cool with that.

Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007

Tide posted:

My 2012's AC smells like rank swamp rear end the first 20 seconds it blows air (on recirculate). Any idea on what to do?

Cabin air filter? Pretty easy swap and it's only about $15 for one at NAPA.

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Aberroyc
Jul 12, 2007
Look what decided to pop up on my 2011 GT! Horray iron contamination problems are still happening!

Went to the dealer and they told me it "wasn't bad enough" to be covered yet under the 5yr/Unlimited corrosion. And I'm at 37k miles so I'm out of the 3yr/36k. It has since gotten worse and is spreading below the hood also, so hopefully I can get this taken care of soon.

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