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Drumstick posted:I have a question. My 2007 mustang drivers side window is having problems with the up and down when I open my door. I open it, and the window drops but goes right back up and I have to be very careful when shutting my door. Is there anything I can do about this before taking it into the dealer? Have you already tried recalibrating it? Here's a good writeup for the process: http://mustangforums.com/forum/general-tech/560200-short-drop-glass-question.html Marux fucked around with this message at 08:05 on Mar 8, 2011 |
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Mar 8, 2011 08:03
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shodanjr_gr posted:So against my better judgement, I installed this 2 days ago: So overall, would you say it was worth the money? Is yours manual or auto? I know the tunes also usually include a remap for the automatic transmissions to make them shift a bit more aggressively. Also, who did you order from and what was your experience with them? I've got a completely stock '05 and was seriously considering picking up that same combo but am still kind of on the fence.
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May 16, 2011 04:28
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Got a question that I can hopefully find an answer for; over the past month or so, my AC system has had a musty/mildew smell when I use the AC system, after a bit of internet digging it seems to be that the most likely culprit is the condenser drain being clogged and holding the water from when I run the AC which allows mold/mildew to grow. I've never had any of the floor mats get wet/damp when it rains or I wash the car, so I don't think the leak is from the cowl drains or grommets that I know can come loose. I've already replaced the cabin air filter and tried using a spray to kill any mildew/mold, but I noticed also, that when my AC is running there is no water dripping underneath the car at all, which is the primary reason why I'm thinking the condenser area isn't draining. Anyone have any experience with this and know where the drain is located? I've search high and low for the answer but Google just brings up useless information for the most part, or people asking the same question and not getting a response. I really don't want to go to the dealer for such a simple issue. Edit: Forgot to mention this is for a 2005. Marux fucked around with this message at 18:45 on May 28, 2011 |
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May 28, 2011 07:49
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I recently upgraded from the stock BFG Turanzas to Michelin Hydroedges on my 2005 v6. They're really pretty amazing for grip, compared to stock its a night and day difference. Breaking traction actually requires effort. They do pretty well in the rain so far although it rains where I live very rarely so it wasn't an issue when i bought them. They are kind of pricey but they're also rated to have quite a bit of tread life with a 90k mile warranty.
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Jun 13, 2011 04:05
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I've run into a bit of an issue that I figured I'd post here before having a dealer look into it; ive got a 2005 GT and my gas gauge has been acting kind of crazy, currently the needle is way past the full mark (points straight down at half a tank) although the computer still correctly estimates my miles to empty. From the issues I've read about people seem to either need to fix the fuel sending unit (which usually throws off the est miles to empty when it malfunctions) or the stepper motor that moves the needle needs replacing, usually to the tune of a new cluster from the dealer, and I really have no idea how hard the cluster is to get to to do it myself. Also use been noticing the speedo needle has become a bit notchy in the colder weather as if there is some resistance keeping it from moving freely. Not sure if it could be related. Anyone else experience issues of this sort, or have any advice?
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Dec 2, 2011 21:38
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Tanz-Kommandant posted:You can buy the kits to have them do that on the '94-'04 and '05-'09 now too - I have them on my 05, they add a nice touch I think as they're pretty uncommon to see. A bit wonky to set up even with the plug-and-play prewired harnesses. The idea I thought was that they blinked in order from shortest to longest (harness enters at the far end of the light) But on mine they were kind of mixed. Best tips for installation to save headache: Buy some extra bulbs before you start, they snap in place to the connectors and I ended up killing the elements for two of mine. Also test the firing order before putting it all back together. Don't be me and spend an hour and a trip to the store on a 20 minute job.
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Mar 2, 2012 21:56
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Twerk from Home posted:This is not a car you are going to sell to an enthusiast. If it were in pretty good shape, I'd say its a $3k-4k car tops, but with a ragged interior (needs a new drivers seat?) and obvious paint damage, your options are either putting in some work yourself to clean it up and take tons of pictures to show it's in good shape, or just pricing it where it needs to be to sell in your local market. This pretty much covers it, most of the V6 mustangs of that vintage down here are basically beaters, and you just buy them cheap and drive them until they dont drive anymore. It would also help to be able to see the actual condition of it, to judge how severe the "issues" with the paint and interior are.
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Mar 19, 2014 22:24
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