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optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

kronix posted:

So today it looks like I'll be signing the paperwork on a new 2011 GT premium with the 19 inch wheels and the 3.55 rear and the final price is 32.500(not counting the 500 rebate, if I don't do ford financing)? It's over invoice but I'm not sure how much better I can do. I made a 33k offer on a very similar car already sitting on the lot last week and the dealer hung up on me.

I'm just trying to convince myself that I'm not getting hosed price wise...does anyone think I can do better?

Also I can't decide...sterling grey metallic or kona blue. I keep going back and forth :bang:

If you have a Costco membership, go through their car buying program. It'll be $500 over invoice (w/ holdback) no questions asked. You'll still be able to take advantage of any special offers that Ford provides. I went through Costco for mine, got a call from the dealer within 2 minutes of clicking submit, and ended up paying $750 under invoice after all was said and done ($750 coupon from the brochure through mail, and an additional $500 off from Ford credit).

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optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

BITBY posted:

e: I haven't even gone through the first tank of gas yet, so I'll let yall know how the capless fuel filler feels when I break the seal.

300+ miles out of a single tank? Not bad!

I'm getting about 15mpg in my 5.0 haha

The only things I've noticed with mine is that I hear a click or thunk when decelerating right about 2k RPM.

I've also been super spoiled by my E46 BMWs with the Harman Kardon system.. these speakers sound so flat. Decent bass, decent highs (when pushed up -- can't adjust a full EQ, just bass + trebel -- electronics package sync /w nav), but everything sounds muddy. I might get the Shelby / Kicker 6x8s as they're plug & play, but the Kicker 8" subs look so nasty with the new trim ring.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008
Discovered a couple things about the 2011 Mustang the last 24 hours...

Drove down to Shelter Island (San Diego) last night and the key fob was completely dead. Couldn't lock, unlock, pop the trunk. After dinner and the show, fob was still dead. Drove back home and tested it in my garage and all was fine. It seems as if some interference was tripping it up and it disabled itself. Could have been the naval base right across the harbor maybe.

This morning, I discovered that you don't have to hold the key on start for it to start. Just click it and let it go and it'll finish cranking automatically.

It's also way too quiet. Going to need to get an exhaust soon. I'm thinking the Bassani cat back and maybe a X pipe.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

Imperador do Brasil posted:

The one in the Mustang apparently reads low, and my Fit reads about 3mpg high, but my wife's Routan is spot on. Strange.

My '11 GT's OBC reads 15.6 MPG and the pump math shows 15.4, so it's pretty accurate to me. This is 100% city so not too far off the EPA numbers (almost 3k miles so it should be settled in).

I only drive on the freeway once every few tanks, so I've yet to check out the freeway mileage.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

mod sassinator posted:

How is Ford coming out ahead financially with the new 5.0? It seems like the better quality parts, manufacturing, engineering, etc. would add a lot to the cost of car. Some of that goes back to buyers in the form of a higher price, but a lot like the engineering costs have to be amortized over time. What I'm really curious/worried about is, will the new 5.0 be like the 5th generation VW GTI/Rabbit which had a strong product at release but cost too much and had to be watered down in its next iteration?

My 5.0 was almost $38k out the door. It isn't exactly an inexpensive car.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008
Picked up the FRPP tune & K&N drop in filter today. It definitely feels as if there is more low end torque. I actually have issues not spinning the wheels taking off now. Also, the lack of skip shift is glorious.

It does seem like there is more engine note in the cabin, which isn't a bad thing.

A+

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

Number_6 posted:

Anyone with a late-model Mustang care to opine on how good a car it is, aside from speed & handling? I know it's not supposed to be a Camry, but are they reasonably free from rattles & squeaks? Is it day-to-day reliable? How is the paint quality and durability? Does the power stuff and electronics work? Is the new 6-speed automatic tranny durable, or a POS like the AOD 4-speed on my T-bird 5.0?

I've been a GM guy for almost 20 years because my '91 T-bird was a POS. But owner reports I see on forums about the new-gen Camaros are not very good, when it comes to reliability, lovely waterbased paint that chips if you look at it funny, funny noises, cylinder deactivation crap, etc.

I don't want to drop 30+ large on a new car that frequently has to go back to the dealer, for anything besides an oil change. I'd rather keep my GTO, except it's fugly.


My '11 has been reliable so far (not that 3 months / 3300 miles is any test), but it does have a few rattles. There is a faint rattle that sounds like a wire loom vibrating against the body that comes from both sides of the car near the B pillars. My passenger side door skin rattles when a song has any bass at all (going to fix this when I replace the speakers by adding some dynamat). Nothing I'd send it back to the dealer for, though.

I did run into a weird problem last night, however. I was at a red light that was staying red for way too drat long, and the light I wanted to hit was already green ahead of me, so I impatiently revved the engine twice and the engine cut on the 2nd rev. It started right up and was fine after that.

I'm going to chalk that one up to the new tune.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

mcmagic posted:

Can any of you guys who have bought Mustangs recently share how much you were able to wrangle off of MSRP for the cars?

I paid $500 over invoice for mine (took advantage of my Costco membership). If you don't have one, the $50 membership will save you a ton of time and money -- no haggling.. just fill out the form on their site, get a call within minutes (my dealer called me 2 minutes after I pressed submit), go to the dealer and fill out the paperwork and (if the car is already on the lot) drive home.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

RockSmart posted:

Not yet. It's a couple bucks per month added onto your satellite radio subscription if you decide to renew after the free six months or whatever.

If you eventually decide that satellite radio is poo poo (it is), you can get the traffic only for <3/mo. It's what I ended up doing in mine.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

RockSmart posted:

It ain't poo poo when you live in rural Virginia and your AM/FM options are 1.) Staticky country and 2.) Staticky conservative talk radio.

I'd pay for the traffic either way, it's useful.

I wasn't speaking of their content, I was speaking of their sound quality. They have too many channels and can't give enough bandwidth to the stations, so everything sounds worse than FM.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

RockSmart posted:

No. It's only useful for burning music to from cd's. You can't just load whatever you want on it. So I use an ipod instead.

I found that a 16GB USB drive is much more reliable than an iPod (if you keep it plugged in 24/7). No start up lag!

I did rip a few CDs to the 10GB harddrive, but I've played from it only once.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

RockSmart posted:

Firmly in the conservative category


I've heard of sat units taking a long time / never receiving the deactivation code. You keep riding that golden horse, as far as it will take you

If the unit isn't on when they start streaming the codes, and you get lucky enough to miss it every time they do it, you can go months. I incorrectly wired up my Pioneer XM receiver connected to my Avic (wired it to switched 12 instead of constant), and thus kept XM for a good 6 months after I cancelled. Had to take a 200 mile trip one day and lost it, though.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

mcmagic posted:

One more thing. Do any of you guys have black leather interiors? How hot does it get in the summer?

I have the leather in my 2011. The leather isn't the issue in the summer -- it's the 401a shift knob. The first day I had my car, it burnt a pattern into my palm. I got dark tint that weekend, but I still have to put something over the knob on the hot days.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

Wombot posted:

Does the electronics/navigation package let you input navigation destinations via voice while the car is moving? At all?

Yes, though trying to do so with POIs is a royal pain in the rear end. They force you to go based on types of businesses, instead of just letting you tell it the business you want. For example, if you're trying to go to Home Depot, you have to first tell it the city, then the category (Home and Garden is NOT it), then finally you can tell it Home Depot. I'm not sure why you have to go by category at all -- it makes it such a pain in the rear end. Just display the categories next to the possible matches and let me pick afterwards.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

RockSmart posted:

It really is an amazing machine. I'm stuck on a poo poo assignment for my last year in the Navy, but driving to/from work has become the best part of my day. I'm pretty picky too, but I was able to find one with every option I wanted and only one I didn't (19 inch wheels) without much effort. I never take my Nano out of it, and I'm satisfied but not amazed with the iPod integration. It's "good enough".

I quickly ditched the iPod and just went with a 16GB USB stick. The start up time is /so/ much faster now that the car doesn't have to wait for the iPod to boot and all that.

However, I've used a bunch of other iPod integration systems (BMW OE and aftermarket, Pioneer, etc), and the Sync beats them all. Pioneer's AVIC would allow search by voice, but it would drop the iPod about 25% of the time. The BMW systems have the same slow boot and drop out issues but minus the voice controls.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

Offrampmotel posted:

A tune will definitely improve your shifts. I have the manual (3600 miles and no problems so far) and depending on the road surface, I can chirp the tires shifting into 4th.

What gearing do you have that you can chirp into 4th?! Mine with the 3.31s is already exceeding the highest speed limits in America before I'm in 3rd gear.

frozenphil posted:

It's really weird to how how the only forum I can find with people talking about this issue is the one Jalopnick linked. The forums that have people who aren't completely retarded don't seem to have a single person with this issue. Strange...it's like there's a reason I didn't list allfordmustangs.com as a forum you should visit.

Well, mine almost always crunches 1-2 and 2-3 (not a full grind, but a quick crunch sound). Shifting 1-2 at the redline without being /very/ slow and methodical will grind. Just a few days ago, it flat out refused to go into any gear. Accelerated from a light not even that briskly, tried to shift to 2nd.. wouldn't budge.. tried 3rd, 4th, finally got it to go into 5th.

The transmission and my FRPP tune are the only faults of my car (though I could reverse the tune but gently caress skip shift). The tune causes the engine to stall if I were to just rev it without load. Even a short blip to ~1200 or so will cause it to dip way below idle and try to die (it usually recovers though). A blip to 4k or so will kill it. I got bored at a light once and revved it to 4k -- it died, then all the gauges lit red and it wouldn't restart. Had to cycle the key a dozen or so times. Thankfully I didn't hold anyone up as the light was hosed and not turning green even after a few cycles for other directions (which is why I was bored haha).

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

RockSmart posted:

There's a thread about it on the Corral and I think I've seen it mentioned over on modular fords as well. Ford released a TSB recommending folks with cars built before April '10 change out their tranny fluids.

Mine was built in October '10, no issues here.

Mine was an April '10 car, so maybe I'll have the dealer swap the fluid next time I go in for an oil change

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

kronix posted:

The millage isn't awesome. On the highway it's fine thanks to that super low 6th gear but let's no sit and pretend that anything over 14-15 MPGs is going to happen on a car pushing 400 horsepower around in city driving. I'd really like to see Ford throw that start stop technology that BMW is using on the M3 on the Mustang because I think it'd help a lot.

That said, Ford has completely upped the ante on what's acceptable from a budget sports car. I was shopping the Mustang against the 370 and once the 5.0 hit my mind was made up. My Mustang is the fastest thing I've ever driven and I love it :)

I get 17 MPG city in my 5.0. My commute is 8 miles (~20 minutes) of city streets ranging from 25MPH to 55MPH. If I drove it slowly and shifted no more than 3k RPM, I'm sure it'd get even better, but I love its acceleration.

Also, on a recent trip, I got 26 MPG filling up just before getting on the freeway in San Diego and filling up again in SLO. That said, the gas tank on this car is ridiculously small haha.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008
Bilstein is finally getting around to building a kit for the 2011+ Mustangs (and they're based off my car).

The new shocks are awesome; the springs I could probably do without. Even the engineer said that he prefers the stock springs with the Bilstein shocks as it is perhaps a little too low (-40mm in the rear) and taps the bumpstops on the rough stuff. If it sat the rear 10mm higher than it does, it'd be perfect.

I could also do with an adjustable panhard bar should I keep the springs on -- I'm going to give it a thousand+ miles before I make up my mind.

The ride feels a bit german -- reminds me of my previous car (BMW 330i ZHP). It is definitely quite a bit stiffer, but not harsh at all. You definitely feel more of the road, but it is completely flat in the corners now.

Excuse the crappy iPhone pic:



20mm lower in the front; 40mm lower in the rear.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

frozenphil posted:

When you lower a car equipped with a non-adjustable panhard bar, especially that much, you end up forcing the axle towards the passenger side of the car. You're going to see some wonky tire wear pretty soon, not to mention crab walking, and eventually rear sub-frame tearing.
Do yourself a favor and get an adjustable panhard bar.

Yea, that was definitely the plan. However, the axle actually pushed towards the driver's side. It's about 1/2" further out on that side than the other.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

AtomicBomber posted:

But drat what?

It the gently caress means that some-not all- people are missing shifts or perceiving that they are getting locked out of gears because they dont know how to shift this particular transmission properly. They are hitting in between gates and think they are getting locked out of gear.

As I said, I thought mine was notchy till I learned to shift more passively instead of trying to force the transmission to go where I thought 3rd should be. I was probably trying to jam the shifter between 3rd and 5th. I nudge it and let the guidesprings handle dropping the shifter into the gate, and since then no problem.

Sorry if your experience was different, but it probably explains quite a few of the complaints going on.

PS - I have had 2 cars before this with 5 speeds, one of them a fox 5.0, and neither of the shifters was anything like this one.

FWIW, I don't quite agree with the statement that the problems with the transmission are all due to driver error. However, I do agree that the skip-shift is a problem that causes two specific problems -- missed shifts and block outs. Though, I've got the Ford racing tune which disables the skip-shift and have still experienced random problems over the 15K miles I've got on my 2011 GT. I've had some occasional grinding between gears (usually 1st-2nd at /high/ RPM. My previous cars include the AP2 S2000, RX8 and E46 (ZHP -- 6 speed). Is it driver error when the transmission grinds with the clutch fully depressed?

The shifter in the 5.0 feels quite a bit like the shifter in the S2000. This is not a bad thing. The gates are so close together that you can't really hit in-between a gate, yet I've never mis-shifted (that wasn't caused by the skip-shift). If there is a problem with the transmission, it is due to the quality of the syncros within the transmission. Blaming it on the driver is a cop-out.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

kronix posted:

So I just ponied up the cash for the FRPP tune installed at the dealership next week. Got it in writing that the warranty would be honored. Would've been done tomorrow, but the Mustang is staying put because the weather is going to be lovely tonight through saturday afternoon. Will be waiting until the weather is clear.

Anyways, hopefully I'll be posting some sort of a review after I get it done sometime next week.

Let me know if yours has this weirdness where the RPMs dip to almost-stall (if not stall) levels after a big throttle blip while stopped. Other than that, I love the FRPP tune. Quite a bit more noticeable torque.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

Comrade Flynn posted:

Trying to decide what mods I want to buy with my bonus check next week. Thinking of the Boss Manifold + engine brace, a CAI, tune, and maybe http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php?PartID=724&CategoryID=225&ModelID=35 or http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetails.php?PartID=857&CategoryID=225&ModelID=35.

Anyone have any inputs on this? Basically looking for the best all around bang for the buck.

If you lower the rear, you'll also need an adjustable panhard bar or your axle will shift quite a bit to the left. This puts extra wear on your bushings and stuff.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008
Just finished installing a set of Pypes pype bomb axle back muffler deletes on my 2011 GT.. I should have installed these a long time ago! No video as I have nothing that will capture the sound well enough. American Muscle's video captures it accurately, though.

Anyone know if there are any CARB exempt intake systems out yet? It wouldn't be too difficult to take it off and put the stock back on every time I need to smog but I'd love to avoid the hassle.

Also, it's about time for new tires. Planning on changing from 255/40r19 to 275/35r19 as they should fit. I'm considering the BFG k-force ta kdws (though I hear they're loud [but cheap]), or the Hankook Ventus R-S3 (supposedly wears out very quickly), or the Michelin Pilot Super Sports (more expensive but great tires).

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008
I was able to keep my Pypes axle back chambered muffler deletes on for almost a week. Swapped them back out to stock after the first trip down the freeway.

The first drive was great. Every time I drove it after that point had further diminishing enjoyment heh.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Luckily I don't drive the Shelby more than once or twice a month, so it will retain some new-ness for some time (hopefully).

Give it a drive on the freeway first. The 2011 GT's gearing made the Pypes drone horribly at freeway speeds. Enough to literally hurt my passenger's and I's ears. I praised the crest of the hill when I could finally get off the gas and the exhaust quietened.

On the street, it was perfectly fine as I could put it in 6th for 'stealth mode'. On the freeway, the drone was unavoidable.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Well, another nice thing is that I never take it on the freeway. I am not expecting it to be any more drone-y than my wife's LS2 G8 with Headers, X-pipe and Magnaflow cat-back. Louder, yes. Report forthcoming, whenever I get time to install them.

You're in luck because I liked mine for the most part before I took it on the freeway. I only drive on the freeway a few times a month (my commute is mostly city), so it should be great for you. It's a totally different beast with the exhaust in the city.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Well, the Magnaflow got installed today. 45 minutes under the car, and it could have been quicker but I am stubborn and tried to remove the first muffler without removing the hanger bracket. Note: It's quicker and easier to just remove the loving bracket.




Impressions: Loud, but not as loud as I expected. No drone at 65mph (could be due to the longer 6th gear on the Shelby vs the GT). Below 2k RPM it's almost as quiet as stock, but at 3-6k it's monstrous sounding. I will be keeping these on. Anyone in the marked for stock GT500 mufflers with only 3k miles?

Yep, I removed the bracket after loving with trying to pull the thing off without doing that unsuccessfully. I might have been successful if I had sprayed lubricant on the hangers first, though. I was able to reinstall the old mufflers without touching the bracket (though bending the cat-back pipe enough to get the inner rear hanger on while holding the muffler up is a pain).

I'm interested in your stock mufflers (supposedly more throaty and slightly louder than the GT mufflers). PM me with details.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

Imperador do Brasil posted:

We should definitely get together at least to say hello. What will you be bringing? I will (kinda obvious) bring the Shelby.

So today I actually made a point of taking the Shelby on the freeway to see what the sound was like, and it was completely tolerable. At 75mph I'm turning 1750RPM, and there is almost no drone.

Nice. At 75 in mine, I was turning 2k+ which is where it started to get really loud. Anything under 2k was 'stealth mode'.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008
The pedal on my '11 GT with the brembo option is pretty firm. It's no lancer evo, but it's much firmer than even my 330i ZHP was.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008
On my 330, I just took the housings out then wetsanded them with 1500 and 2000 grit. hit them up with some polish and wax after that. looked like new.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008
Was finally time for new tires on my '11 GT (Brembo). Had some Michelin Pilot Super Sports in 275/35ZR19 installed. Wow, it's like a whole new car. I can actually accelerate again! The grip is incredible both in straight line and in corners.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

Aberroyc posted:

This is my next "mod." I've got 20k miles on my stock tires and they're starting to get some wear. Anything over 5k RPM and they start spinning in the first two gears.

My original tires were doing that from about 7k miles on. I've lived with not being able to actually accelerate for over 13k miles. It is awesome being able to flog the poo poo out of this car again.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008
I don't think this is a problem common to the transmission in our cars. My '11 shifts just fine still after 21k miles. The 2-3 is sometimes notchy and sometimes just refuses to get into gear without double-clutching, but that is a once-a-year rarity. I will say that I have missed more shifts in my last S2K and even my RX8 than I have with the Mustang, and the throw and gate seems very similar.

I would highly recommend scheduling an appointment with your dealer to get that checked out. That is what your warranty is for -- that is not a common problem and something they will need to fix. I think an aftermarket shifter will just make things worse.

optikalus
Apr 17, 2008

Cocoa Crispies posted:

Is there an actual good place for cupholders in a car with a small interior?

BMW got it right with the latest 3er

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optikalus
Apr 17, 2008
A set of decent shocks.

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