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mod sassinator posted:Very sexy! Does it really need a backup camera though? Backup cameras are useful: 
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Sep 13, 2010 02:04
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KickStand posted:2001 gt, 76,xxx miles. Only mods so far are a CAI. Cap looks OK to the naked eye, Ill double check for any cracks in the gasket, doesn't appear to be any bubbling in the system while the car is running. Just buy a new cap. They're what, $5?
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Sep 17, 2010 00:05
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leica posted:My neighbor has one exactly like that, and I see them once in awhile around here so I don't think they're really that rare. Real ones are apparently really rare: Wikipedia posted:McLaren M81 Mustang Looks like this is an ASC/McLaren, which looks like it's basically just a two-seater conversion?
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Sep 26, 2010 21:59
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scapulataf posted:Got ya. Hence the built autos that the serious draggers use, not just for handling the extra power. Well, you also don't need gears you'll never see when you're living life a 1/4 mile at a time.
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Oct 7, 2010 02:45
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scapulataf posted:No fuckin poo poo. I pay 1800 a year for a fuckin '09 Corolla. Maybe stop mentioning it then?
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Dec 22, 2010 01:55
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RockSmart posted:They'll "come down on you" (call you) and tell you that they're increasing your premium to exactly what it would have been if you'd told them. There is no reason to mention violations that should be off your record. And if you're dumb enough to volunteer information to them, they'll be happy to note that and use it to raise your rate. They're going to run a check anyway, why bother saying anything?
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Dec 22, 2010 22:08
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RockSmart posted:Today the dealer offered a Kona Blue 2011 GT Premium with electronics package, comfort package, and the 19" machined wheels for 32,900, which is about $3000 below invoice. Why on earth would it be expensive to do? You just pop off the cover on your oxcart, pull out the old gears, install the new ones.
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Mar 5, 2011 03:32
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frozenphil posted:
FTFY
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Mar 8, 2011 22:51
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iwentdoodie posted:The same reason that's the only track 99% of the ones that go outside of a garage will ever see: Turns is hard. There's no TIME to turn when you live your life a 1/4 of a mile at a time.
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Mar 9, 2011 01:40
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Wombot posted:
Order it in December, then it'll be ready by March. Problem solved?
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Apr 29, 2011 03:07
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PT6A posted:Just get a set of snow tires and you'll be able to deal with pretty much anything Seattle winter can throw at you. I drove mine in the winter in Calgary (albeit not on the worst days, because I didn't want to deal with the traffic nightmares) and had no problems whatsoever, even in some terrible conditions (they don't plow residential streets at all, so there's always plenty of snow and ice on them). The problem with Seattle winters isn't so much what the weather will throw at you, but the fact that other drivers tend to like to throw their CARS at you.
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Apr 29, 2011 23:20
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Oxytocin posted:Seriously. Try a gridlocked downtown Seattle or San Francisco on a rainy day with road construction driving on summer radials and nearly 30 degree inclines. I have to turn the loving radio off so I can hear the engine revs and not stall out or spinout during the stop and go. You guys know that this is one of the functions of the e-brake, right?
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May 2, 2011 20:17
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kimbo305 posted:I am not a perfect manual driver. I'm probably in the lower quartiles. But I can use the ebrake maneuver to help on hills. That said, driving in stop and go is a chore, and I disagree with the guy who said heavy traffic is its own punishment. It's even more of a drag with a manual. I drive a manual with a 2600 lb. pressure plate in stop-and-go traffic. You guys are whining about nothing. (walks in circles)
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May 2, 2011 21:37
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shodanjr_gr posted:
That sounds like a standard code that means "you cut power to the ECU and killed the history". OBD II pulls a flag like this so people don't try to avoid emissions failures based on faulty equipment; some sensors need a certain amount of time/distance in order to have proper verification of function.
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May 15, 2011 09:55
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frozenphil posted:ATTN Ford: The new 5.0 fits in the Ranger nicely. This is a good idea. Except for the fact that they're discontinuing the Ranger, right?
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Jun 13, 2011 23:24
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oRenj9 posted:They made approximately a billion of them though. There are over 50 for sale for under 10k within 25 miles of where I live; half of those are going for less than 5k. That doesn't make for a good ATTN: Ford though, more of a ATTN: Ranger owners.
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Jun 13, 2011 23:35
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frozenphil posted:Can you think of a better way to send the Ranger off? Tell me you wouldn't buy the poo poo out of a baby Lightning. I wouldn't buy the poo poo out of a baby Lightning. (Totally lying)
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Jun 14, 2011 07:09
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Throatwarbler posted:The 5.7l Hemi in the Dodge Ram puts out more power than either the 3.5l turbo or the 5.0l, and gets mileage in between, only because it's still sitting in front of a 5 speed trans instead of the Ford's 6 speed. It is also substantially cheaper than either. GM's 6.2l engine is even more powerful than the Chrysler's 5.7 and gets the same fuel economy in the Silverado with the 6 speed as the 5.0l Ford, although I think you can only get it on the expensive top trim truck. Tell us more about your HEMI that isn't actually a HEMI.
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Jul 7, 2011 00:00
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frozenphil posted:I'm going to take a guess and say the next Mustang will be the biggest disappointment since Ford stopped making Mustangs in 1974. It's going to have IRS and be manual-only. You're going to hate it.
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Jul 7, 2011 20:58
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Dick Burglar posted:What exactly causes 'orange peel' anyway? Basically, painting a car. It's a pain to get the spray completely even, and "orange peel" is how that's described. You do a wet sand step to even the paint out. Hey, here's some Wikipedia information! "Gloss paint sprayed on a smooth surface (such as the body of a car) should also dry into a smooth surface. However, various factors can cause it to dry into a bumpy surface resembling the texture of an orange peel. The orange peel phenomenon can then be smoothed out with ultra-fine sandpaper, but it can be prevented altogether by changing the painting technique or the materials used. Orange peel is typically the result of improper painting technique, and is caused by the quick evaporation of thinner, incorrect spray gun setup (e.g., low air pressure or incorrect nozzle), spraying the paint at an angle other than perpendicular, or applying excessive paint."
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Nov 13, 2011 20:50
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frozenphil posted:This isn't 1987 anymore; you can buy badass stuff from the aftermarket. Hell, you can buy badass stuff direct from Ford these days.
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Feb 6, 2012 06:30
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Comrade Flynn posted:
Parkin' hard, brah.
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Mar 18, 2012 10:29
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shodanjr_gr posted:Well, I i don't know if my 2008 qualifies as fair if you take into account that it needs rear tires and could use pads/rotor resurfacing at the front AND is due for its maintenance... He's doing the typical "trade-in game" to make it look like you're getting a better deal than you actually are. This is why you settle on a price for a car before you start talking about whether or not you're doing a trade-in.
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Apr 8, 2012 03:50
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Krakkles posted:Interesting. I'm going to have to look around a bit more, then. Mine has the H pipe, and it seems ... louder than most. I'm not sure what's been done to it, but the PO said the exhaust was stock. I've got the stinger one on my car, works pretty well. Another option is a battery that has both top and side posts, and you connect your aftermarket gear to the terminal your stock vehicle doesn't use.
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Apr 10, 2012 00:34
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Aberroyc posted:Definitely worth a shot for $9. My biggest problem is that they would re-oxidize fairly quick after. The Sylvania kit I bought has a UV coat you add as the last step to specifically combat this.
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Apr 17, 2012 01:44
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erock posted:I am picking up a 65 GT in a week or so and wanted to know if there is anything specific I should be looking into replacing / upgrading for general drivability. This won't be a show car, just something fun for summer weekends. Right now I am planning on putting disk breaks on. Any input or ideas would be great. I'd recommend against disk breaks on that car.
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May 28, 2012 21:44
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Dick Burglar posted:Stereo systems that come with cars (even the 'premium' ones that are options) are pretty much universally poo poo. I have no idea why this is the case, as it's clearly not a price problem, but it's loving everywhere. It's ALWAYS about price. Saving $50/ea when you're ordering 500,000 units is a serious chunk of change.
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Jun 1, 2012 08:50
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Rabble posted:Well, I got a nail stuck right smack dab in the center of my tire so out came the "tire inflation kit" that I got instead of a spare. Surprisingly, it worked pretty well. Not as well as a goddamn spare tire, but I'm running around on a ghetto sealed tire with a nail in it until I can get to the tire shop. I pity the poor bastard that's going to have to work on your tire.
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Jun 18, 2012 18:35
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Mustang MuscleShirtThread: The cupholder/ashtray location is a legit test parameter
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Sep 4, 2012 07:37
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Bumming Your Scene posted:I thought there's laws that say you can't invalidate a warranty unless whatever a person modified on the car directly caused whatever problem there is. I'm pretty sure disabling knock sensors and leaning the poo poo out of your A/F ratio will probably be pretty easy to link to blowing an engine.
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Oct 22, 2012 05:27
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Devyl posted:My WTF question is this: If the dealership is telling you that your rear-end is totally shot, how is it still completely safe to drive? The only thing I can really think of making that sound would be your rear gears, axles, or driveshaft. If one of those are totally shot, then it definitely isn't safe to drive. "We don't want to pay for a rental car for 2-3 months while we wait for parts".
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Nov 13, 2012 07:14
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Rhyno posted:My best buddy is looking to buy a 2005 Mustang V6 Auto with 51,000 miles. (Silence Viggen, it's not for me). The dealer is asking $10,000 and my friend is expecting him to drop it to $8000, very unrealistic. The car's had two rear end accidents which have been repaired. No salvage title. I'm stressing to him not to buy it based on it being boring and been in accidents but he's being headstrong and kind of dumb about this. Tell him he's a dumbshit that's going to have to deal with what's coming to him and wash your hands of the whole affair.
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Jan 10, 2013 03:27
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Rhyno posted:This guy is literally my best friend in the world. I'm trying to keep him from making a huge mistake. Just me saying "don't buy it, its a pile of poo poo" won't work. Sometimes you just gotta stand back and let your friends make a stupid decision. Kind of like letting them date that hot chick with the crazy eyes.
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Jan 11, 2013 00:53
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lazer_chicken posted:It's a bit of a stretch, but does anyone know anything about the factory AC units in early Mustangs? I'm looking at a '66 that comes with a broken factory AC unit. The seller claims it "needs a new compressor." I've never really messed with AC before, and I especially have no idea how the separate units like this work. I'm going on the assumption that it's totally hosed and would need to be completely rebuilt. Any ideas what that would cost? I know there are tons of aftermarket drop-in ac systems for these but I'd prefer to use the original. A/C units aren't terribly complicated. You should be able to find a new compressor for it without much difficulty. Rock Auto lists an A/C compressor for around $150-200, depending on if you get a new or reman unit. Bearing is sold separately in case that's what's failed, the compressor clutch is also a separate unit. If it still has A/C in it (charged) you'll need to take it to a shop, they'll need to capture the freon before the compressor is removed and replaced. If the system is dry you can technically do the work in your driveway; I'd recommend converting to R134 or something though rather than using freon.
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Jan 11, 2013 22:33
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Taaaaaaarb! posted:If you can find that video, that would be awesome. In the meantime, I was thinking about something like this: Some crazy bastard stuck a TT V6 from a 300ZX in to an XR4TI way back when, they called it the "Scorch".
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Jan 29, 2013 23:19
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ApathyGifted posted:But the noise isn't coming from the tie rod ends? I'm probably wrong about it coming from inside the dust boots on the steering rack too (it's drat hard to pinpoint a high-pitched noise like that), but since it's coming from the direction of the rack itself and not the wheels I think the fix outlined in the TSB would be the way to go (since it's also the cheapest possibility I can think of). I've already ordered new bushings and a tube bracket, along with a torque wrench since I seem to have gotten through life without one so far. Ummm, you know what's inside those dust boots on the steering rack, right?
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Feb 21, 2013 04:57
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kalvick posted:I have a tuner, I got it from American Muscle, before it was a BAMA tune. I know some people had a problem with BAMA when the newer model of stangs came out. I dont know what the situation is with them now. I can tell you that I have never had any problems with it. I think "blowing motors because they turned off the knock sensors" classifies as a little more than just a "problem".
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Sep 26, 2013 21:22
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kalvick posted:Agreed. Perhaps I should edit my post to say "MAJOR" problem. anyways..... what is the latest with BAMA? are they good now or do they still have issues? I think there was talk in the thread about how they "fixed" the "issues", but I don't know if I'd want to trust a tuning company that at one time thought it was a good idea to turn of knock sensors.
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Sep 27, 2013 20:15
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kalvick posted:Gearbox oil should last 20 to 30k, do you mean engine oil? thats good for about 5k. if its gearbox oil, just get whatever ford recommends. There isn't really any good reason to spend the extra money for Royal Purple over say, Mobil 1.
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Oct 8, 2013 02:08
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kalvick posted:Yea, but he was asking for Motorcraft or Royal Purple. Mobil 1 is also acceptable! No, he was asking if there was any advantage to doing so.
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Oct 9, 2013 18:30
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