|
 Something about this looks raw as gently caress.
|
#
¿
May 7, 2011 19:33
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 08:39 |
|
|
Comrade Flynn posted:Sorry, was waiting until the deal officially closed. How about investing that into a driving course to maximize your skills instead of messing up the stock suspension geometry?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2012 20:52
|
|
|
Any suggestions for a tune/intake on a 2012 GT with Roush exhaust in the South Bay area?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2013 23:24
|
|
|
roger wilco posted:Day 25. They say it will be done tomorrow. I was out and close to the dealership so I pulled in and saw my car just out with the hood popped (but not up) and the center console / shifter out. The console was laying on the floor. This car had been garaged every night since I brought it home, and here it was being blasted by the sun for almost a month. There was a layer of dust on it. It sort of made me sick/sad. I knew too that the whole transmission wasn't even on the car. I felt sick looking at it. There was a pair of channel locks sitting on the seat for crying out loud. If it makes you feel any better it takes about 25 seconds to put the center console on. Should be receiving my MGW shifter with composite knob in the next few days (3~1.5mo backorder) and I will try to take a few pictures of the install but it's pretty widely documented. Pull the trigger on MGW or at least get the Energy bushing to pick up on the slack https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XynDGixQNhs bowling 4 buttcoins fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jun 8, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2013 22:37
|
|
|
Are you adjusting the lock out at all? I'm a bit curious to see how this effects the 1-2 shift on normal driving as most people are leaving it stock or doing one more twist to 6 rotations.  Whiteline sale!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 9, 2013 23:09
|
|
|
roger wilco posted:now they've changed the story. Since the trans was backordered until July they ordered the new bearing and were able to get the car back together again. They are "driving it now" and said it should be ready either late today or tomorrow. I don't want to wait any longer -- I'm tired of waiting and I'm upset that the whole trans wasn't replaced. I'm upset because now I'll have no faith in the trans for the entire time I've owned the car since they "fixed it" and didn't replace it. Honestly I don't think the fix you're looking for can be had with the Barton 2 post shifter. Never been in a MT82 with one yet but if you're looking for more than a shorter throw, if not peace of mind go with a MGW.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2013 06:48
|
|
|
 Time to get a bit more swole after this MGW install. Only 1975 miles left until break in.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2013 01:01
|
|
|
July 4th day sales are a go. Lethal Performance has a 10% off code "FIREWORKS". SCT Tuner, BMR adjustable pan hard bar w/ poly inserts, Lethal Performance off road H pipe, JPC gen 2 over the axle pipes and GT500 mufflers incoming.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2013 23:37
|
|
|
Tide posted:Hrm. True about the stresses involved, hadn't really considered that angle. It's a daily driver, with an average of about 5,000 miles a year. For some reason I was thinking the KBs were a whole lot more expensive and didn't even consider one. Have you considered looking into the Beefcake Special? If you're in a CA emissions or near-CA emissions state it will be pretty difficult to get the non-Roush setups to pass smog.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 11, 2013 23:35
|
|
|
roger wilco posted:I've made it a point to drive it pretty hard to test since then with no issues, so I dunno what was going on there. If it makes you feel any better I'm still dealing with skip shift issues, even after MGW install. Are you sure we can disable this via a tune for all 2011+?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 12, 2013 19:42
|
|
|
 What's not pictured? Just the tip. 
|
|
#
¿
Jul 17, 2013 17:44
|
|
|
1st Edition ADandD posted:The thing that gets me is how useless the interior space is for a car that big. Lowered? Time for an adjustable panhard bar! Losing my car Thursday and pickup Sunday for the following parts: Power: Boss Intake Manifold and Airraid PJ CF intake Accufab 84.5 throttle body JLT oil separator Kooks Super Street headers 1 7/8th" Lethal Performance Offroad H pipe 2nd Generation JPC Over Axle Pipes Keeping Roush AB or installing 2012 GT500 AB Suspension: Steeda Adjustable UCA BMR chromoly PHB Painted Boss Strut tower brace MMD hood struts Tuning (AED): Idle(Lope), Drag (Removing torque limiter) and 91 performance tune Skip shift delete I would like to apologize to Frozenphil as I'm pretty sure this mustang is my most favorite car I've owned so far. If the S550 Mach 1/GT350 comes out for 2016 I think something might sway me from a Corvette.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 23, 2013 18:42
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ssQNJDRO6o And it's done!
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2013 04:11
|
|
|
Auron posted:21k is a lot for that car, but I'm sure it is difficult to find an 07 Mustang GT with that low of mileage anywhere. My guess is even a private party would be asking close to that. While I hate that body style with a passion and would never come near one, some people love them. 20 thousand miles? Try 10. How about a loaded one? Brand new V6 is years beyond what the old 4.6 was and there is no reason to even touch that body style unless you're going to rip the engine out anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2013 18:00
|
|
|
Radiohead71 posted:Has anyone upgraded their stereo units using the Kicker system? My 11 GT has the base stereo, which is quite terrible. I want to keep my head unit, but was looking at the following upgrades: I replaced my front two speakers with the Infinity Reference 6832cf pair and metra harness adapter. The install is super easy and documented here. Beyond the two fronts it would have been better to have a shaker system to start out with, but someone else here can answer that.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2013 22:04
|
|
|
Radiohead71 posted:Thank you for the link and reply. Did you notice a big difference just replacing the fronts? I've read in other threads that front speakers alone make a huge difference, even with the stock head-unit and no amp. Absolutely huge difference. At the same time I used some additional sound deadening material I had lying around and padded up the door panels to prevent any rattles. The installation is dead simple, and took me about 15 mins for the first door and 5 for the 2nd. I have the stock base system without amplifier or subwoofer, and I don't think it needs them with all the engine noise going on. There are a few other speakers that have been recommended for drop in, but the Infinity reference speakers are a great deal and I would recommend them over and over again as a *must have*.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2013 20:36
|
|
|
Tide posted:The 32V 4.6L V8 thats in the Terminator is significantly different than the 32V 4.6L V8 that was in the '96, '98, '99 and '01 model year Cobras. Iron block instead of aluminum, forged internals (Zolner pistons and Manley H-beam connecting rods), and quite of few other changes. Changing out the headers/exhaust, slapping a lightning pulley on it, and a custom tune yielded spectacular results. Also, Ford underrated them (insurance reasons? who knows) as most were putting +390HP to the rears (which indicates more like +430HP to the crank). It's really easy to turn an 03/04 Cobra in even more of a beast than it already is. And when you get down to it really, the whole cars are not investments  comes into play. If you're looking for a time capsule it better be worth buying, otherwise it might be smarter to stick with a Coyote GT or 302 for exclusivity.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2013 23:27
|
|
|
AWWNAW posted:Just installed them and the polarity was definitely reversed. There was only one way to plug the speakers/harness in so I didn't notice... MikeyTsi posted:There isn't really any good reason to spend the extra money for Royal Purple over say, Mobil 1. LMR sells the RP/motorcraft kit for ~80. I'd say the Mobil 1 kit is probably just as expensive if not more.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2013 01:08
|
|
|
Anyone have any experience with supercharging the coyote here? Would really like a goon opinion on PD vs Centri vs the opposition for what it's worth. I'd rather not give up my boss intake manifold/air raid intake but if they have to go they have to go. For your services here is a picture from 100|OCT Fall 100 Miglia. 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2013 02:09
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:I supercharged a DOHC mod motor in 2006-2007 with a Paxton Novi 1000. The answer is it depends on your goals. The earlier mod motors aren't torquey motors at all and adding a centrifugal suprercharger meant that at 3800 RPM I got a ton of power and stock drive-ability and gas mileage on the lower end. I'm looking at the 2200SL or Vortech units, considering Whipple if the price is right because who cares about quarter miles. Running 3.73s right now so low end isn't a problem, but 3.31/3.55 might need to happen while running boost. Tide posted:Check out http://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/. They can help you with a specific set up. Really helpful people. I have heard really good things about their Beefcake Special Vortex and Paxton blowers. I bought the Roush 625 HP PD set up from them. Is this Phase 2? I'm curious as to how much power it would make on a fully bolt on car (Headers, 3" full exhaust) with ID725s or ID1000s. Please let me know! I've bought a bunch of parts from Beefcake and their support is spot on. kalvick posted:I would not give up your intake either, that is a major character trait for your car! I like a centrifugal in this case just to have the boss intake front and center. Zero gains when going Paxton/Novi so it might need to go. I have the accufab throttle body and parking lot driveablity is pretty much a joke. The car is either going 2/5ths throttle or above or not moving at all. Everything gets quite choppy and the MT82 does not play nice. Anything above 650hp I consider dangerous for the block itself, so I'd like to stay below that mark.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2013 03:37
|
|
|
Devyl posted:Get yourself the new i-1 procharger. It's ridiculous. It adjusts the amounts of boost based on the settings you choose while in the drivers' seat. No need to get out & wrench on things to change boost levels; and during a dyno run I got to watch with one bolted to a new Camaro SS, you can take it up to some crazy numbers. They took the Camaro up to 680 HP with nothing but the i-1. I never really considered this a legitimate option but I'm talking to TPS Motorsports (very local) to see what a Stage 2 (Intercooled) system would set me back. Procharger systems are rock solid but this new kit is *so* new it makes me pretty worried.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2013 17:05
|
|
|
And black friday sales are on! through JPC racing OR Paxton 2200/Id1000s/ and your choice of a whiteline mount or bmr sway bar relocation: $4615 shipped!!!! through beefcake.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2013 22:49
|
|
|
Tide posted:Wooooooooooooooow. That's an unbelievable price. I know, I'm kicking myself trying to figure out if this is a really good idea or a really bad idea. Since it's a tuner kit, would all I need is my normal SCT tuner?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 9, 2013 00:46
|
|
|
Freakin jelly. Let me know if you want a Roush AB for super cheap, it should bolt right up.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 10, 2013 18:36
|
|
|
 GT/CS front valance and fogs installed for the last C&C of 2013.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 10, 2013 23:29
|
|
|
Tide posted:I think the normal tuner kits require injectors and a custom tune. But since it comes with the injectors, it looks like all it needs is the tune. A BAP probably wouldn't be a bad idea. Paxton Beefcake special + ID1000s and a Roush (previously Phase 3) boost a pump incoming. Sadly these toys will just sit in a box until I have the time to install it, I don't think you want to drive to CA :P
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2013 20:48
|
|
|
 Whisper sweet nothings in my ear.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 19, 2013 04:25
|
|
|
Radiohead71 posted:That is one big snail. I would like to know more... Hunting for 3.6 pulley and Vortech competition intake. I feel awful but its all just going to sit in the box until I have the time to install. AED is hooking me up with a base map so I can limp to Sacramento for tuning.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2013 18:49
|
|
|
MarsellusWallace posted:Thanks for the input, guys. I'd like to point out that this thread drove an excellent financial decision (decided to do engineering school after reading about the 5.0 and 3.7), and a terrible one (buying a performance car as a young male immediately out of school). 13s are still on the lot heavily discounted, 14s are still out there as well. The 5.0 carries over unchanged (mechanically) with MT82 for MY15 (which probably won't be found at invoice) until summer 2014. It's never not a good time to buy a Mustang.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2013 19:08
|
|
|
Looks like a v6 with pony (appearance) package? Holding onto my jimmies until they can be properly rustled.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2013 19:58
|
|
|
Tide posted:Why was I thinking the V6 had 300 hp? I dunno. Anyway, this '15 is seriously making me regret installing the blower on my '12. I probably don't need to see one in person because that would be bad for my credit rating and marriage. Never regret 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 5, 2013 22:55
|
|
|
Pretty good for OEM H pipe and axle back.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2013 05:32
|
|
|
I'd like to think of it as an evolution of launch control rather than factory line lock for legal reasons. I'm more curious to see if this is electronic or a solenoid based system, which is what most people go with now. Tide, have you looked at Beefcake's torque booster? I switched over to Tokico D specs last weekend and I'm still dialing in the suspension, going to try to add my Steeda Adjustable UCA + Mount, Bumpsteer and X11 ball joints in the next week or so. I figure its worth finishing all that up before tackling such a big project.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2013 18:43
|
|
|
Tide posted:No, sure haven't (I've got the Roush TVS Stage 2 package). If you're lowered, have adjustable LCAs, plan to go low in the future, or have LCA relocation brackets I'd look towards an upper control arm that allows for more adjustment or an adjustable mount. I know BMR is coming out with some new spherical UCA hotness so it might be worth going with the tried and true package. BMR Bolt-in Control Arm Relocation Brackets (2005-2014) BMR Panhard Rod, DOM, On-car Adjustable, Polyurethane Bushings (2005-2014) BMR Upper Control Arm Mount (2011 - 2014) BMR Upper Control Arm, DOM, On-car Adjustable, Poly Bushing (2011 - 2014) BMR Upper Panhard Rod Support (2005-2014) Ford SVT Lowering Springs 1.25" or BMR SP009 (1", 1.25") BMR Lower Control Arms, DOM, On-car Adjustable, Polyurethane & Rod End Combo (2005-2014) To finish it off you'd need MM camber plates + QA1 Coilover fronts + Viking rear double adjustable shocks for drag/strip/street roll use OR GT500 upper strut mounts, Koni Yellow, Tokico D spec struts and shocks. I'm sure either way you'd be happy, but wheel hop can take a bunch of parts to fix. Go from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHHtndai2ms to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD12TIjKmow Looking at a Tial Q 50mm BOV now trying to prevent myself from buying a present 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 17, 2013 04:38
|
|
|
Geology posted:loving sold. BUT WAIT, THERES MORE!   If I didn't pull the trigger so soon I would have gone with their 7075 spaced spherical UCA, but their UCA mount is not as adjustable as Steeda. As of right now I have Tokico D specs (4f/5r), Steeda Ultralight springs, GT500 USM, BMR LCA relocation bracket, BMR adjustable pan hard, BMR pan hard support brace with some more Steeda bits to go in.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 17, 2013 17:21
|
|
|
So there has been a lot of mad on SVTP over this open source transbrake for 6R80 applications.  Anyone want to wire it up?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2013 21:14
|
|
|
Tide posted:I like the nose of the '13 better than my '12, but don't like the tail lights. I'm probably alone there - I just don't like the LED rears. I will say that not having the track pack is probably the biggest regret I have when buying mine (2012 GT). Play your cards right and you could probably pick up a new '14 pretty cheap once the '15s hit the showroom floors. It may not be exactly optioned the way you want, but the deal you get it on it could offset that. Plus give you a solid foundation to build on. Changed oil after 7500 miles with a Royal Purple kit, 8 liters. Installed the Steeda upper arm and mount, learning how to remove the rear seat in 10 seconds. Took about 3 hours to remove and install the arm, recenter the rear end (pan hard bar was off by 2cm at full droop?), and torque everything down. I'd like to install the centri but the weather is just terrible. Need to get the base tune for the Paxton from AED and really commit to installing it over a weekend. Picked up some NT 555R rears, tempted to move my rear Sumitomo ZII 275s to the front...
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2014 07:35
|
|
|
Tide posted:
Same boat. I'd love to see a specialized engine for GT350/Mach 1. OEM supercharging/turbo packages (FRPP Whipple, Roush TVS) were great but left a lot on the table in terms of tuning. E: Car wash day! 
bowling 4 buttcoins fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jan 14, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2014 21:08
|
|
|
Meathole posted:The centering of the rear wheels should be checked at ride height, not full droop. As the rear end is moved up toward the chassis, the panhard bar arrangement will make it move toward the driver's side. I used a piece of string with a nut on the end(plumb bob) and a small $2 machinists ruler to measure the difference side to side with the car on the ground. Measured from the string taped to the wheel arch to the wheel lip on both sides and had to shift it about 1/4" to the right to get it centered with the new coilovers. You have to take the weight off the rear end to adjust it anyways, so you may as well measure it on the ground, then jack it up, support it by the chassis, and adjust the bar. I think I did 2 turns or so. You'll have to set it down or I guess jack and support the rear end to check it, but I got it close enough the 1st time. BMR says to get it within 1/8" side to side, and that's where I'm at. Some people never even bother with it after lowering, but after all that work an extra $150 or so for an adjustable bar and some time to install and set it up must be worthwhile. You may want to drive it a little, park it on a flat surface, and check again. I adjusted everything after lowering the car back down, I was just very shocked no one mentioned how the pan hard bar would effect the 3rd link dropping onto the differential. At this point I'm thinking going watt's link + coils would have been the better option, but way more expensive. I still have to figure out if I want to install the balljoint/bumpsteer kit myself or let AED handle that due to the adjustment procedure. Shopping around for a set of 3.31s right now, can only imagine how much labor will cost to swap the gears.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2014 19:34
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 08:39 |
|
|
Tide posted:Not that bad. And if you have the skills to do the suspension work you're doing right now, you can probably swap the gears out. Will be a good learning experience either way! Found a place locally that will do the swap for 200 if I remove the diff myself. Now to find the gears! The car was a 55D originally (3.73s dealership installed), but the only OEM parts left now are the GT500 lower control arms and driveshaft. I can hear the OEM driveshaft when starting slowly with the new UCA/mount installed but it feels that much better that I don't even care. I'd love to try a T56 XL or TR6060 swapped car to compare it to but you can't easily remove the truck like shifts transmission of a Mustang without dumping 6k into a swap. kalvick posted:you are doing all that suspension work, you may as well go all out so you can plant that power to the ground. If I didn't go with Tokico D specs I would have picked a QA1/Strange/BMR spring combo. They're suppose to be great for launching, but this car is a DD and it would probably do too harsh. If the stock diff went out I'd move to a Eaton Truetrac or something of that nature but for now it will hold. Meathole posted:...I believe my E55 had 2.65's and they were great with the ~600 lb-ft of torque because they would tame down 1st gear enough to make it actually usable on the street, and the track(it cut a 1.73 60-foot on street tires). I do wish the Mustang had more torque below ~3,500 RPM, but the Coyote is a fantastic engine and the gobs of power up top only makes the low-end FEEL weak in comparison. This is why I didn't go with a TVS/VMP system. Slamming the rear end with 550ftlbs @ 3.5K jut seems like a bad idea for anyone who likes to keep tires around for longer than 7500 miles. The 305 NT555Rs should dead hook on 3.31 in first gear for and hold while the boost kicks in. I'll try the 3.73s out for awhile before jumping to 3.31s but they seem to be the gears to get for FI. Paxton install might start next weekend!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2014 03:58
|
|
