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kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


Sweet a reason to post a pic of my mustang!


its got standard bolt-ons, aftermarket exhaust, and 3.73 gears, and lowering kit.

The sn95 and new edge mustang, have serious suspension issues. If you buy one, consider getting full length subframe connectors and anything else that can stiffen your car. The solid axle with aftermarket lower control arms, panhard bar, aftermarket springs,struts,shocks, and a torque arm will give serious European corner carvers like Audi, Porsche, and BMW a run for the money.

The 4.6 Mod motors, don't produce a lot of power. In stock form with after market bolt on's you probably wont be breaking the 300hp mark. However the 4.6 motor can make serious power if you are willing to spend some money. stroking a motor can get you to the 5.0 mark, after market heads and cams, and long tube headers will defintely get you into the 300hp world. a cheap supercharger will get you to the 360 to 410hp mark.

Once the car is at 400hp with a stock block it is not recommended to go much higher. After market crank, pistons, and anything else to strengthen the motor with all those bolt on will get you into the 500 to 600hp game.

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kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


frozenphil posted:

For the love of God, please don't get the same kind of drat wheels as everyone else in the Mustang community. I just can't fathom why everyone who drives a Mustang has this burning desire to buy the same kind of wheels as everyone else with a Mustang.


Im gonna have to agree, I got my FR500 wheels when everyone was jumping on the Bulitt deep dish wheels. Now everyone gets the FR500 wheels. They even come stock on the 11 v6 Stang. UGGG.

On the other end of the spectrum, I hate people who put body kits on mustangs. Anything with a European or Asian style to it, just looks terrible on a mustang.
The only body kits for a mustang should be, stock, Roush, Saleen, Cobra. Any other combination is just wrong.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


kronix posted:

I'm just trying to convince myself that I'm not getting hosed price wise...does anyone think I can do better?

Id say that is decent price, If you bought the "summer" car in the fall season it would probably be a little cheaper. the Dealers are just jacking up the prices of fun cars while its nice out.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


kimbo305 posted:

From Jalopnik, just the crate motor has landed at $7k:
http://www.fordracingparts.com/part...tKeyField=11829
No ECU or harness, or even an alternator.

That would be totally awesome, I wonder if it would fit easily into a 99-04 model Stang?

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


frozenphil posted:

Ford hasn't released anything yet that I am aware of. I'd expect a price between a well optioned premium GT and the GT500, released sometime this Fall.

I dont know why, but I really like the Boss 302 even more than the Shelby. would anyone care to guess which car would be worth more in 25 years? the Shelby or the Boss.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


More pics of my baby! Washed, Claybar'ed, and Waxed.










kalvick fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Aug 31, 2010

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


frozenphil posted:

You take that thing down the Rubicon yet?



I kid.

Pictures just don't do it justice. The car is lowered about 1.5" all around.
ugg - coil-overs are the only thing I can do to get a better drop

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


Omegaslast posted:

is there any way i can get the 01-04 hood scoop for the 99 gt? i really loving despise my hood. It looks awful without that hood scoop, since the piece of plastic honey comb poo poo is so prominent smack dab in the center of it.

Seriously ask yourself "Do I want to spend money on a plastic hood scoop? Have it installed and painted and end up looking like an 01 to 04 mustang?"

for the same amount of money you could get a real nice aftermarket hood. Steeda and Cervinis make some nice hoods. then the car could be a head turner.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


frozenphil posted:

I only tease because my suspension is still stock.



I love True Blue color 'Stangs! This color is one of the best colors hands down! I only wish that color was out when I got my car! My second choice for best color is Gun Metal Grey.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


frozenphil posted:

That's actually Sonic Blue. I'm just gonna post my favorite picture of my car, even though I've posted it millions of times here.

yea yea yea, Sonic Blue, thats what I meant. Gun Metal Grey also has a more formal name but I also forgot that name too. I dont really care enough to look it up.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


turnerburna posted:

my S197 is lowered about 1.5" - what size wheels do you have? Mine are factory 18s



18" wheels with 295-35-18 (rear) 265-35-18 (front)

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


I don't have a source for this, but I believe IRS on the Mustang is not as good as other IRS systems on other cars. It was just sort of an after thought to develop an IRS system for the cobras. I think there where some issues with it? correct me if I am wrong.


Also.... if you have a solid axle, and just throw all of Maximum Motorsports suspension kits on it, you will get an equally awesome corner carver, with all brand new parts. no donor car required.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


frozenphil posted:

Brembos look ridiculous behind 17" drag wheels.



Man, I dunno. I understand the logic about skinny tires, drag wheels, etc.... for a drag race car.... but I also know how important it is to have really good brakes.
If you didn't say anything, I would say that car looks amazing.

now I am gonna be looking at the front wheels and the back wheels and not be sure what to think.

Also its better than my car, so I cant complain.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


I saw this in the M&FF Magazine. There is a transmission by TCI for mustangs with automatic transmissions. its a 6 speed tranny, with 2.97, 2.23, 1.57, 1.18, 1.00, 0.75 forward gears. It is called the TCI 6x.

Its capable of handling up to 850hp. and supports full manual mode with paddle or bump shifters. The website is TCIAuto.com

Now I know people that are into manual shifting a stick, are not fans of sport manual or paddle shifters, but I do LOVE a paddle shifter. I mean real ones like on exotic sports cars.

so tell me.... is this a REAL manual shifting automatic. like could I go from 4 to 2 or skip 1 and go strait to 2nd or something? I know on automatic transmissions with bump shifters, you can only go up or down one gear at a time and you can not exceed a gear that the computer refuses to let you engage. Is this the case with the TCI 6x?

next up is the price, its like $7,000 with your choice of shifter, and bellhousing, and the wiring/computers etc... Is this a good deal?

Also..... the paddle shifters alone are $560 bucks, Works with any automatic 4, 5 or 6-speed transmission controlled by the revolutionary TCIŽ Transmission Control Unit. Does that mean it can work on the stock automatic transmissions? and just goes from 2, 1, d, and overdrive? OR does it mean it requires any aftermarket 4, 5, 6 speed tranny?

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


ok well that basically answers my question. Its cool but not Cool enough!

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


In other news, I am debating getting the Panhard bar and Lower Control Arms as my next suspension upgrade. I would like to get the Torque Arm so I could go to a 3 link suspension, but I may have to hold off for now for money reasons.

My question, is do you think I should get the parts painted? I know the parts come painted black but I think it would look cool to see just a slight splash of color sticking out from the bottom of my car, to basically say, "there is something not quite stock under the car" and not be ricey.


My car is silver, and the calipers are bright red. If I paint the parts bright red, I think the colors would complement each other. is this a good or bad idea or should I just stay stock black?

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


Thats a stock paint scheme, Mystichrome, and I think that looks sweet as hell.
I wished Ford did that with other color combinations as well. I think Saleen did a similar color setup with Orange and Red.

The engine bits with the anodized colors totally work in this case!

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


frozenphil posted:

Maximum Motorsports has everything you need. Look under just about any racing Mustang that takes corners and you'll find their stuff there.

Quoting for truth. If you do end up getting a solid axle Mustang. For less than 5 grand you can turn your car into a corner carving demon that can take on any Euro hi-performance car on their home turf.

You don't even have to buy all the parts at once, which makes doing suspension mods on a mustang affordable for all budget levels.

On a stock mustang, just buying full subframe connectors & springs, is a night and day difference. buying and installing some more parts a little bit at a time only makes the car performance better. Also you should note, that a stock mustang with a super charger, even though its more powerful, will lose on the twisties with a less powerful mustang with kick rear end suspension upgrades.

Below is the list of the common parts you can buy. Every part below you can have for only a couple hundred dollars each.

K-member (with 2-point brace)
Front Control Arms
Torque-arm
Panhard Bar
Full-length Subframe Connectors
Coil-over Conversion Kits, Front and Rear
Coil-over springs
Caster/Camber Plates
Aluminum Rear Lower Control Arms
struts
shocks
adjustable Rear Swaybar
Aluminum Steering rack Bushings
Solid Steering Shaft
Bumpsteer Kit
Strut Tower Brace
Front Swaybar Relocation Kit
Front Swaybar Bushings
Front Swaybar End Links

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


I LOVE how the boss has all these goodies in the car locked away so you can sell the car legally, then once you own the car, you can delete the exhaust restrictor plate, put on the front spoiler, and then use the trac key.

Then you can take your car to a free track day that comes with your purchase!

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


UGG reading about this car is just unreal. I want a Boss more than a Shelby GT500.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


I hate to have to keep repeating myself. Basic suspension mods on any old stock Mustang will end up making that car a corner carving demon. Big powerful engines dont mean squat if you cant keep the car on the road. You really don't need a Boss to compete with an M3. Dont get me wrong I wouldnt turn down that opportunity though!

I Remember there was an episode of Top Gear, where they pitted a Shelby GT500 against a Roush. The Shelby was more powerful, faster, and more expensive.
the Roush was a stock Mustang with a S/C and suspension mods up the wazoo. The Roush was several thousands less and a lot less powerful.

Jeremy said he would rather take the Roush to the track because of its superior suspension upgrades.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


kimbo305 posted:

Do you remember that from the last page?

yea yea yea..... I am just trying to make a point again, that basic suspension > super powerful niche market branded mustang to compete against an M3

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


I have a question about the MM lower control arms. It just occurred to me that you can buy them with or without swaybar perches.

However when you buy the MM sway bar, one end hooks up to the rear subframes, and the other end hooks up to the axle.

What the hell is the point of getting lower control arms with the swaybar perch. OR am I totally missing something.



edit: Nevermind, I re-read the MM statement that says its for factory swaybars. My 01 doesnt have one anyway.

kalvick fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Mar 10, 2011

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


sliderule posted:

Speaking of which, can anyone recommend a tuner near Toronto that can fix the lovely stock tuning of my auto?

if you have a stock mustang you dont really need to get a tune. you can get an SCT programmer, plug it into you car and use a canned tune from American Muscle/Bama tunes. plus you get to keep a programmer which you can use for Diagnostics.
on a stock auto, the tuner will adjust your shift points so they are firmer, and modify your timing so you will have to run a higher octane gas.

You dont need to pay some guy to put a stock car on the dyno and run tunes.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


kimbo305 posted:

But will that canned tune necessarily deliver the smoother shifting he wants? It might just be aggressive for the guys who want to drag their autos with the utmost precision and wringing out of the motor.

Yea, but we are talking about a stock auto. Either the auto is slush or firm. There really is no in between on a stock Mustang with an auto. (or at least seat of the pants feel) There would be a huge difference if the owner had a built transmission, trans cooler, a different stall torque converter, jmods, and a drag or ratchet shifter.

Here is the thing, you take your stock car to be tuned and put on the dyno. you get the changes and you go home. you realize you hate the changes and you have to go back to the tuner and they have to reset the tune. and you do this several times until you get it just right. You have spent hundred of dollars and time to fine tune a stock car. It doesnt make sense. if you get a SCT tuner and use a canned tune on a stock car and the shifts are too strong or weak, you can email to get another free tune. and you just email back and forth until you get what you feel is just right for you.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


sliderule posted:

My specific problem is this:

The 2-1 shift happens way too late. I have to reach a complete stop for 1 second, or I have to touch the throttle at speeds below 20 km/h. Because the throttle is partially open during the downshift, it "clunks".

I would like the car to shift into first at any speed below (say) 15 km/h.

Is the SCT tuner going to do this? I don't see that as an option on the website, only allowing for modification of WOT shift points and shift "firmness".

If your throttle is open, that sounds like a mechanical issue or something. unless your Mustang is drive by wire? Do you have a pre 2004 mustang? or do you have something newer? if you have a drive by wire throttle body, you can get a tune to kill the shift lag. Then you dont even have to worry about shift firmness like my above statements. Call American Muscle, they sell SCT tuners with canned tunes by Bama. tell them you have a stock whatever year mustang. and you just want a tuner to kill the shift lag. if you want, they can sell you a programmer with performance tweaks or you can tell them you only want to kill shift lag. if you go for the tweaks. dont expect these tweaks to give you more than a few extra hp.

and by perfomance tweaks you only get, shift firmness, higher timing (could require more expensive 93 octane), rev limiters deactivated, top speed cap turned off. you know the standard Police Interceptor Mods

Also, like FrozenPhil says....
"If you're going the canned tune direction, I'd recommend (in no particular order) Evolution Performance, Lethal Performance, Blow By Racing, or VMP Tuning over the American Muscle/Bama tune" I only recommended American Muscle, because you get free tunes for life. if you get minor bolt on upgrades, they can send you new tunes for free. I dont know what the other guys do. the shops listed by FrozenPhil are defintely top notch shops!

kalvick fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Mar 14, 2011

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


Nosthula posted:

I've been thinking about getting a SCT SF3/X3 Power Flash Tuner and a custom tune done for my 2011 Mustang GT. While doing my research into the tuner I noticed it allows you to read and clear DTC codes. This leads me to believe it uses the ODB-II interface and I could possibly use it on another car just for reading and clearing codes. Is this possible? I know its an odd question but I still have an old 2001 taurus and the engine light is on and was going to buy an ODB-II reader specifically for it. Killing two birds with one stone would rock.

I know with SCT, it locks your car to the device when you give it a new tune and it unlocks when you put the original tune back.

I am pretty sure you can use the locked device on other cars to read codes. I am not 100% sure you can clear codes (I have never tried)

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


Industrial posted:

This is what it is for me too honestly. When I was car shopping my contenders were a Mustang GT and a Genesis Coupe. There were a lot of things I preferred about the Genesis Coupe but I couldn't stop thinking about how the Mustang sounded and bought it a few days later. To this day there are few cars whose engine notes I prefer to mine.

The Mustang sound is a definitely unique, I can always tell when a Mustang is coming by the sound it makes. I don't even have to turn around to know its a Stang. dont get me wrong, other cars have there own sound but you have to fine tune your ear for it.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


I put my money where my mouth is and bought parts for my baby!
I got a Panhard Bar and XD Adjustable Lower Control Arms.
The XD's are a little overkill for my car, but they where only $30 more.

Maximum Motorsports Suspension Mods FTW!!!!


(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


CombatWombat posted:

You registered in 2001. Really?

Dont you be hatin' on the playa', hate the game.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


frozenphil posted:

Idle lope tunes are becoming the "in" thing it seems as Livernois has one coming out soon as well.

When I first heard about this a few weeks ago, I thought the gimmick was cool on a one off car, but now I cant not believe anyone would want to tune their car to do this. This is the in an American equivalent of import cars with huge fart cannons. Its all noise with out any performance benefit and it will just piss off the neighbors.

If it was real cams with real lope noise then I would be all for it.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


RockSmart posted:

It's really hard for me to compare pipe sounds when they're coming out of my computer speakers. How do you guys feel about Borla exhausts, the ATAK in particular?

I tried to listen to muffler sounds through pc speakers, and it just doesn't work. So I went for looks and reader reviews that show proven better horsepower. Chrome Exhaust tips that stick out a little from the bumper with rolled edges look great. I am not a fan of the exhaust tip with an exhaust tip around it. I think it looks weird.

Borla's are pretty drat good and a lot of people use them. Magnaflow's are also pretty popular. Both Exhaust Companies are like the Brembo Brakes of car communities. You just cant go wrong with them. Pick what you think looks nice and what you can afford.

If you want just pure out loud, get pypes, cherry bomb, glasspack, or other unchambered muffler.

if you are just doing the muffler and not the pipes, get a Flowmaster 40.

If you want rastly sound get an X pipe, if you want deep tone get an H pipe.

I remember reading and I cant prove this, but I think MAC exhausts give some of the best power but there is nothing about them that makes them look great.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


Hey I got another annoyance in my Mustang. The roof liner is sagging pretty bad.

the cardboard that holds the fabric to the roof looks like it had water damage and was sitting in a scummy pond for a year. you know soggy looking cardboard that is in a solidy liquid state. In any case I glue it back to the roof and it looked fine for about 8 or 9 months and now the glue is coming undone and I really need to replace it. I dont think the glue is at fault though. I just dont think there is enough meat on the cardboard to stick to the roof.


I can not find a replacement roof liner for a 2001 gt? all I can find are lovely glue fixes. Does any one have a model number for it, so I can order it direct from Ford?

I could go with a generic roof liner or some 2fast2furious aftermarket if something like that exists, but I really rather have OEM.

any ideas?

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


frozenphil posted:

If you want the more aggressive sound, get the cat back. Just be aware that you're not going to pickup any power from the cat back; you're just going to be louder. If you want to pick up power, then get an x-pipe with high flow cats from Lethal or whoever; they've been proven to add around 20hp.

I got the Magnapack catback for loudness, and Magnaflow hi-flo catted x-pipe.
Though, I have a hard time believing you can get 20hp from an x-pipe (unless you have alot of previously bolted on parts). I admit you can feel a boost of power coming when WOT and you go from 2000 to 4000 RPMs.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


frozenphil posted:

stuff about midpipes....

I whole-heartedly agree! also.... a note to sound changes for the previous quy asking about sound/noise level.

You can also go with a hi flow (catted or not) h pipe, The h pipe will make your car sound like a throaty 70's muscle car, or you can get an x pipe which will give you a raspy noise like a Nascar vehicle. The x pipe will give you (just slightly) better HP than an h pipe.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


I have been eyeing this cover for years. http://www.touchlesscarcover.com/
its like a pop up tent. I want one so bad... but I know that its not designed for outdoor. and its not really that strong against the elements and winds.

I also wish something like this would come out for cars. http://www.autoanything.com/car-covers/69A4286A0A0.aspx its an accordian cover for motorcycles.

Both of these covers would be perfect for me because I don't want one of those god awful plastic garages in my backyard making my property look lovely. the other 2 cover options take up hardly any space and when not in use can be tucked away into a small profile. Best of all the covers dont touch your paint and get wind damage.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


frozenphil posted:

If you're nervous, have the dealer "install" the tune for you and keep your warranty.
http://fordracingparts.com/parts/pa...tKeyField=12346

I dont know how true the above is. When I bought my Stang with no miles on the odometer yet, I asked the dealer if they would install ford performance parts in my car and honor the warranty. they said they could sell me a super charger, install it, but would not warranty it.

they WOULD warranty the supercharger based on its warranty, and they would warranty my car based on its warranty. but if the s/c blew up the engine it would be on me to pay for repairs. So a Ford car, with Ford installed parts, installed by Ford Certified installers will void the warranty.

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


OrganizedEntropy posted:



I know this is a Recaro seat, but is this seat available as an aftermarket seat direct from Recaro's website? If so what is the model? I really like the fact that the logo isn't plastered all over the front of the seat in bright colors. Getting this seat in black leather w/o the badging and everything I think would look real sharp.

Also while on the subject of seats, I also really like the molded plastic on the back of the chairs like this one http://www.seats4cars.com/products/VX2000.htm . I am not sure if that is considered lame or anything.

Finally, I know that aftermarket seats come in 36 or 42 inches wide. I know I am not a fat rear end and could easily fit into 36" wide seat, but for a weekend warrior street ride, would it be better for comfort to get a fatter seat? or do you really not notice the hip hugging?

kalvick
Jun 5, 2001



Hey Phil, thanks for the model number! now the next issue is when they are actually out for sale, If I can get them to fit in an 01, OR am I gonna have a machinist make some custom rails. I hope they can attach to my stock power rails.

kalvick fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jul 12, 2011

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kalvick
Jun 5, 2001


kronix posted:


However, how come nobody can tell me if the FRPP tune is completely immune and Ford will honor the warranty.

This poo poo depends on the dealer you take it too. I posted a while back, that a Ford Racing supercharger, installed by Ford certified mechanics at a Ford dealership, where you purchased a N/A mustang, would not be warrantied. I don't get it, but there you go.

in the case of any aftermarket modifications, Ford's Own or a 3rd party company mod, its really hit or miss with the dealers.

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