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kronix posted:The Ford supercharger keeps the warranty the powertrain for 36,000 miles if I installed by a Ford dealer. It's not like you "install" a tune you literally plug it in and go. I'll be by the dealership later this week so I'll just ask the tech's myself. I dont know if I believe this. If a ford tech installs a supercharger they are gonna use a canned tune. its not like dealers have dyno's. I do agree that there is a warranty on the supercharger and there is a warranty on the car. but putting the two together mutually terminates the warranty. If the engine goes, was it the super chargers fault? if the super charger goes is it the cars fault? then the dealer will poo poo on you and just void out the warranty and say pay us alot of dollars and we will fix it. In all, Im just saying the Ford dealers are really hit or miss, you may get a dealer that will be Mod friendly, or you may get a dealer that only likes dealing with 100% stock cars. kalvick fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Jul 25, 2011 |
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Jul 25, 2011 16:02
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Lowclock posted:Well I guess I've decided against installing a new top myself. Anyone happen to know a good place around Phoenix AZ to get a top installed on an '03? I cant picture it being that hard to install? is the convertable frame broken or something?
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Jul 31, 2011 17:28
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Yea I see what you mean. if you mess up just a little you get rain in your car. Google searching Robbins, it seems to be a convertable top specialist. http://www.robbinsautotopco.com/ looking at Robbins distributors I found this http://www.topsonline.com/inner.html?mode=deptmake&make=27&dept=1 For a 99-11 mustangs the price seems to be in the upper $500's or $600's for a complete Robbins cloth, glass, & defroster kit. So it looks like $750 would be a fair price. for the parts + 2 or 3 hours to install it.
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Jul 31, 2011 20:29
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shodanjr_gr posted:Why would Ford have those restrictors on in the first place then? so you can do free mods! and also to remove extra weight!
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Aug 3, 2011 02:58
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This weekend I am going to get my MM Adj Lower Control Arms installed. I am also going to be installing the Panhard Bar If its not going to be too expensive to modify my exhaust pipes. So with those parts installed, along with my current Full Length Sub Frames, Bilsteins in the front & rear, springs, Cobra brakes, wheels, tires, and C/C plates Im not sure where I want to go next with suspension. I am pretty sure doing anything else suspension wise would be overkill for a weekend warrior/street car. Where should I go from here? Should I be happy with the suspension where it is now and work on other parts of the car? I already did plenum, T/B, gears, and exhaust. Im thinking if I don't do another suspension mod, I may look into doing aftermarket seats that hug you when you are driving in the corners. I cant afford a supercharger or heads & cams yet, so I am looking for other mods a average mechanical person can do with a few hours of time and a couple hundred bucks to spend.
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Aug 9, 2011 15:57
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In a few days I will be getting my car back from the shop with these parts installed! The guy that is installing the panhard for me said that installing the Maximum Motorsports parts just work. He never had a problem with them. He said that everything else about the car you will have to fight with, just not MM parts. Maybe I will bite the bullet and get a Torque Arm and K-member..... ugg I hate having the mod bug 
kalvick fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Aug 14, 2011 14:42
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Diseased Yak posted:Opinions, please: If I went for the easier to get but less powerful V6 Mustang, would I end up regretting it? I plan on going to drive both, but wanted to see what others thought of the differences in the two. If you dont plan to do any modifications, then get a v6. If you plan to get rid of it after x number of years get a v6. If you want to tinker and upgrade get the GT. If you get a v6, and ask "what do i do for more power", prepare to be mocked on the stang forums. if you dont know anything about cars, nor do you care to learn about their internals, and your friends dont know anything about cars get a v6 if your getting it to just impress chicks, just get the v6 with the exception of the GT badge on the fenders the current v6 model and GT are practically identical. then there is the practical matters.... 1) can you afford the gas? 2) can you afford the insurance? 3) can you afford the monthly payments? if you can say yes to the above get the GT
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Aug 14, 2011 15:36
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Diseased Yak posted:This is exactly what I was looking for, thanks! I plan to upgrade the gently caress outta it (dad's a mechanic), I can afford whatever, so basically GT for me. Welcome to the club. Get all the good go fast goodies, and stay away from bizarro aftermarket bling and you will have good people helping you out. take pics once you get it.
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Aug 14, 2011 23:04
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Dinurth posted:Driving home last night my 01 Bullitt *almost* overheated. Checked coolant level this morning and it was bone dry, it took just over a gallon of coolant and then preceded to nearly gush coolant somewhere underneath after I started it up. You mean your car looked like this? Dude you gotta replace the water pump!  also throw some kitty litter on that stuff to mop it up, animals like the smell of coolant and will drink it. then they will be poisoned and then they will DIE and you will have their BLOOOOOOD on your shoulders! 
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Aug 16, 2011 21:08
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I have no Idea as I have never messed with the heater core, but instead of fixing it, can you just bypass it all together? I mean, many mustang fanatics dont drive the car in the cold. wouldnt it simply be easier to leave the core in place. and have a hose to bypass the core completely?
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Aug 16, 2011 21:28
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sanchez posted:Not having a working defroster is dangerous IMHO, even if you don't mind the cold. yea but 9+ hours of labor for a 79 dollar part. you will be spending a grand on labor and AC/coolant recharges.
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Aug 16, 2011 21:50
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frozenphil posted:One thing strange that I just thought of, if the heater core went bad, why is the coolant draining outside the cabin? Every heater core I've seen pop dumps all the coolant into the passenger floorboard. Thats why I said water pump replacement.
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Aug 17, 2011 02:43
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kronix posted:Anyone gonna let you take out a GT500? I'd say that's a lot closer to the ZR1 than the Boss. But the Boss is just SOOOOOOOO much more cooler!
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Aug 17, 2011 19:58
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Dinurth posted:Can anyone recommend a good replacement for the stock Mach 460 head unit? (01Mustang) go to crutchfield.com, put in the specs of a radio that you want for your car. then look at the highest reviews/your budget, then average one out, then go to some other site and get it cheaper. Im running a kenwood with blue tooth with aux usb for ipod and sirius radio.
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Aug 18, 2011 19:49
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Number_6 posted:Technically, although the Mustang automatic (surprisingly) doesn't have paddle shifters or a +/- sequential mode, you can still work gears 1-3 "manually" with the shifter. Unlike many automatics, it will actually stay in the gear you select (and only that gear). And with a 3.15 rear end, that may be all you need.... 3rd gear is good up to something like 115-120 mph, give or take. Ladies and Gentleman, I show you the best mod you can do with your automatic transmission, the B&M hammer shifter with a queue ball. It will let you gently caress around with your gears in your auto. That way you wont mistakenly shift to the wrong gear. but I would recommend you get a transmission cooler and some other supplemental mods before you do it.  It isnt exactly a pro dragster shifter, but it does the job just fine for the street.
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Aug 23, 2011 15:05
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My Mustang has been in the shop for a few days now, getting the panhard bar installed. The installer just called and said that he had to slightly move the exhaust pipes when the car was in the air and the panhard bar fit no problem. but when the car was on the ground the panhard bar touches every part of the exhaust. the installer said the pipes are going to require some major re-plumbing to work right and be perfectly strait out the back. The upshot is that he is not gonna charge me more than what we agreed upon and he will throw in a free oil change for making me wait so long. I appreciate the honesty and all, but the problem now is that I have to wait for his pro-welder to come in to rework my pipes in his words to do the job right and not rushed. I guess the moral of the story is don't use Magnaflow Catback's because they are the biggest pipe's with the least amount of clearance and also are made out of the hardest steel to weld with.
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Aug 23, 2011 20:55
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frozenphil posted:Or don't buy a panhard bar that doesn't fit right. Are you saying Maximum Motorsports makes inferior quality products? 
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Aug 24, 2011 14:35
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frozenphil posted:Not at all, but their stuff is designed for road racing and usually has a warning that you can't run stock tail pipes with it. Yea, I kinda knew that going in, that is why I had a professional do it. Good God, now that I have the car back, it's incredible! I would take pictures but its gonna rain and lighting conditions are not that great right now. The car just sits a little lower in the rear, the car feels different when going around the corners. The exhaust had to be elongated to go over the axle's the Magnaflow catback has a new deeper sound. He did find a couple of problems, so the car will have to go back when he is less busy. they are not major problems but now that I know about them, its gonna annoy the poo poo out of me until they are fixed.
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Aug 25, 2011 14:48
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you shouldn't have to do anything with the bumper or lights. un-pop the two holes on top, place the grill delete, put the two pins back in place. thats it. um those two screws that hold the grill delete in place? you know those are push pins right? you stick a small screwdriver under them and pry them out, they do not screw out. kalvick fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Sep 7, 2011 |
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Sep 7, 2011 16:28
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dang Im sorry dude, cant you just shave the notches of the bottom with a dremmel?
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Sep 8, 2011 02:31
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I think the more justifiable question is.... should you get the Shelby Cobra or Boss 302?
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Sep 19, 2011 14:44
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Supercharger whine + aggressive cams + deep exhaust note, does it for me. but for some reason though I like the specs of the boss better. Perhaps if I ever get a boss, I will throw a supercharger on it!
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Sep 19, 2011 17:21
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I was driving out with my wife the other day in the stang. Something that doesnt usually happen because she hates riding in it. In any case we had the radio on and she said that is sounds weird, kind of like when your ears are clogged. Ever since she said that I realized that yea my sound system sounds like poo poo. When I am in her car the radio sounds a hell of a lot better with stock speakers. Currently my car has the Mach 460 system. The things I replaced is the head unit, which is a Kenwood KDC-BT838U, Pioneer TS-A6872R Speakers (in the doors), and a small MTX thunder amp with a single 10" sub. I also put sound dampening in the doors to make the tinny creaking noise go away when I open and close the door. I didnt cover the speakers with sound dampening! the speakers all work, and none of them are blown out. I can adjust left/right front rear speakers and they all work. I can hear music coming out of the tweeters, and the sub kicks out enough bass. Is the mach 460 amps the cause of this kind of description, or is it the head unit the cause? I remember back there was an issue in early 2000's when the mach 460 did not played nice with aftermarket headunits. I thought this issue was fixed.
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Oct 8, 2011 16:32
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well poo poo, I guess this means I have to spend some money. I suppose I will have to buy a new amp(or amps), while I am at it, I suppose I should get replacement rear speakers and new tweeters. To be honest with you I have absolutely no idea how sound systems work. What kind of amp should I get? not name brand or anything but features, wattage, ohms, etc... if I get a new amp should I replace the subwoofer amp? do they make an all-in-one kind of amp that will drive both the 6 speakers and the sub? or am I better off getting separate amps for front, rears, and subs? I am not looking for anything that grossly shakes the car, or have people hear me coming from 10 miles away. I am looking for something that offers clarity and high fidelity and just enough kick from the subwoofer.
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Oct 8, 2011 18:39
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I used Kenwood KDC-BT838U, but just to let you know using bluetooth to talk thru your audio system in a mustang is pointless, no can hear me talking. They only hear engine and wind noises.
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Nov 23, 2011 23:46
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Ever since the (500hp version) Shelby GT 500 came out I was not interested in really getting one. I always figured I could get a super charger and be relatively close to ~400hp. My '01 would lighter and about ~100hp shy of the Shelby. Now the 650hp version is coming out, and I want one really really bad. I know that my car would never see that kind of power unless I invested a lot of money into it. which then got me thinking, what kind of things would I need to buy and do it relatively cheaply AND remain 50 state street legal? Im assuming Ford is going to release this car to people in California. To be honest with my self, I really have no idea what kind of costs and labor prices would be associated with a project like this. I know I would need to install forged internals, upgrade the cams, upgrade the fuel, install some sort of forced induction, dyno tune, and probably need a beefed up transmission. Is 20 grand a realistic number for parts and labor? or is 650 hp 2v engine in an 95-04 Mustang really a super expensive pipe dream? Also they are quoting the 13 Shelby as being able to do 200mph stock. what would be necessary to do this in a street driven 95 to 04, 4.6 engine? is it even possible? I know dragsters can do this but I mean in a daily driver? I have my car and my title. Paying 60 or 70 grand for 5 or 6 years for a 650hp Shelby would not be cool. Paying 15 or 20 grand for 2 or 3 years for a 650hp regular Stang with upgrades would be more doable I would imagine. Thoughts?
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Nov 27, 2011 16:31
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b0nes posted:What is AI's opinion on "tuner" Mustangs like Roush, SMS, Saleen and Steeda? I think out of the lot, Roush, makes the best. They modify the cars to have awesome handling and power to boot. Saleen, I think used to make awesome all around packages, body kits almost bording on ricey-ness, IMO. but then some sort of drama happened and Steve Saleen left to form SMS. I dont know how the business is doing, but I dont really hear much or see much about them. Steeda is another company that makes tons of aftermarket parts. When I got my car in 2001 everybody told you to buy Steeda parts, Steeda underdrive pullies, Steeda Sway Bar, Steeda light weight wheels, etc... Now I dont hear about them any where as near as much All the above packages come with complete cars + warranties. or you can buy the complete parts list for converting your car. either way it costs $$$.
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Feb 2, 2012 00:51
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So how many of you are excited to bring your Stangs out for spring!? We only got another month or so. I am already planning on this years mods! The day the Stang comes out of storage, Im gonna freshen her up. This years project I hope will be... 1) Get rid of the Mach 460 stuff and put in some aftermarket parts. 2) weld up the exhaust so its all 1 pipe, not held together with clamps 3) reinstall my shoddy installed subframe connectors. 4) have a MM steering shaft installed to replace the worn rag joint. 5) if budget allows a new torque arm 6) Im scared but I want to attempt an autocross. (the car has never raced!) kalvick fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Feb 11, 2012 |
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Feb 11, 2012 23:01
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frozenphil posted:You will regret this if you ever need to drop your transmission or replace a muffler. Clamps are perfectly acceptable as long as they aren't leaking. I meant the cat back. I have the magnaflows and they clamp together right after you go over the axle. They are leaking exhaust there, and melted some of the plastic shroud next to the gas tank. kalvick fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Feb 12, 2012 |
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Feb 12, 2012 00:57
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Well I cant afford a Boss or GT500 yet so I got to make do with what I got. Next week or the week after, my Mustang is coming out to play. I already have a list of must do's... I am pretty sure, the first thing is the Mach 460 has to go because the audio is so flat in my car. Since I don't know a whole hell of a lot about car audio. I am hoping this is just about getting a good amp that can handle my after market head unit and sub and the rest of my stock audio. Hopefully my local car audio shop can help me without destroying my wallet. Then the week after I'm going to get my subframes redone and replace the steering shaft with a Maximum Motorsports steering shaft. I really want to get a torque arm too. I dont know if its better to do coil overs to all 4 corners 1st and do a torque arm next year. Should I just do coil overs in the front and get beefier regular springs for the back or what... UGGG!!! I just cant afford to do both at the same time. Finally I want to get after market seats. I want something that hugs my legs, back and sides. I really don't want the logo of the chair to be sewn in either. Seeing a CORBEAU or RECARO just destroys the "stock" look of the car. Im looking at the leather corbeau seats but drat they are expensive! the Recaro's are in the insane Im not gonna spend $3000 category. kalvick fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Mar 18, 2012 |
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Mar 18, 2012 00:21
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I have an 01 with 22,000 miles. Honestly my car is in more than mint condition. Everything wrong with it gets corrected (in fact its going to the shop next week or so for a cocked up subframe) When I say corrected, I also mean it gets the best name brand parts to replace anything that is broken. I hardly ever go with stock replacements. Taking into the fact that my car has mods, its depreciated the overall value of the vehicle. I can honestly say the car is in the $10k range. I am not looking to sell it. However if someone offered me $17,000 that would be the minimum I would consider to let it go.
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Mar 30, 2012 16:38
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Impressions: Loud, but not as loud as I expected. No drone at 65mph (could be due to the longer 6th gear on the Shelby vs the GT). Below 2k RPM it's almost as quiet as stock, but at 3-6k it's monstrous sounding. I will be keeping these on. Anyone in the marked for stock GT500 mufflers with only 3k miles? no mufflers, lol! I got the MagnaFlow Mangapacks and those things are LOUD! I can only imagine what yours sound like. Consider me Jealous!
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Mar 31, 2012 16:34
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Finally got the Mustang out of storage and brought her home for Spring! For a car that was under a car cover and in a closed room, she is incredibly filthy. how the heck did that even happen!? So tomorrow I am taking her to get some sound and suspension mods. I cant wait!!!!
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Apr 6, 2012 04:12
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Well I did the 1st mod of the season. Removed the entire Mach 460 system (except my existing aftermarket reciever) and went all aftermarket. It is a NIGHT AND DAY difference in terms of sound quality. An aftermarket stereo with stock everything else, made the audio sound lovely. I have no idea how I lasted 12 years with that. I am kind of upset with the final price, I wanted to pay about $200 cuz I thought the mach 460 would just come out and a new amp would go in. But I ended up getting a lot of extra things done. The amp alone ended up being $300.
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Apr 6, 2012 23:49
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wav3form posted:300 is cheap for an amp - did you think good car audio was inexpensive or something? Im not really a Car Audio Guy, I just wanted something that didn't sound like rear end. The money I spent over my $200 allowance, was to go for suspension mods next month. I was gonna get a Torque Arm/ Stiffer Springs, Drive Shaft, and get my subframes re done. Now I have to save for another 2 months
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Apr 7, 2012 20:51
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I have a new issue. In my engine bay there is a wire connected to battery that leads to my subwoofer. When I dont drive my car for weeks on end I usually connect a trickle charger to the battery to keep it fresh. now I can not connect my trickle charger to the battery because the terminal has all this extra poo poo connected to it, and the aligator clip on the trickle charger is not big enough to bite the terminal. Is there such thing as a battery terminal adaptor that can connect all my audio equipment to it AND have some sort of leader on it for a trickle charger to connect too?
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Apr 9, 2012 21:13
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Krakkles posted:Did the stock 2000 GT exhaust have an H pipe/crossover? 1999 - 04 came with H Pipe
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Apr 9, 2012 21:14
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Krakkles posted:Interesting. I'm going to have to look around a bit more, then. Mine has the H pipe, and it seems ... louder than most. I'm not sure what's been done to it, but the PO said the exhaust was stock. possible you have an aftermarket. the stock h-pipe has 4 cats I believe. The H-pipe is a deep rumble noise, the X-pipe is a raspy noise. I dont think either or makes a difference in noise volume. perhaps you have different mufflers? 2 chamber / 3 chamber / strait pass mufflers would make a huge difference in noise volume. kalvick fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Apr 9, 2012 |
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Apr 9, 2012 21:24
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Krakkles posted:Ah. What should I do instead, then? Just some Koni Yellows and bushings? isn't driver comfort about having some mushy springs? if you get the torque arm with the griggs kit you are going to have to get some really stiff springs to prevent understeer. From my conversation with Maximum Motorsports. the springs lb/rate in the front and the rears should be the following.... With Torque Arm: Front:250 Rear:42TA5 or 43TA7 Front:275 Rear:43TA7 Front:300 Rear:43TA7 (with BIG rear swaybar) Without TA: Front: 250 Rear: H&R Race or Super race Front: 275 Rear: H&R Super race Front: 300 Rear: 42TA5 Front: 325 Rear: 42TA5 or 43TA7 Front: 350 Rear: 43TA7 (or rear 225 Coil over)
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Apr 10, 2012 15:57
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the cs's have a nicer bumper. and a sticker on the middle of the side on the car ( which looks awful)
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Apr 18, 2012 21:24
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