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Coredump posted:Are you sure the GT350 is light? That's... quite surprising. Both sourced from C&D: 2011 GT500: 3751 pounds 2016 GT350R: 3710 pounds 2016 GT350 with track pack: 3790 pounds The GT350 might have a bit less weight on the nose, though... C&D claims 55.7% on the GT500, Motor Trend says 54% on the GT350. Probably speaks a lot to how much stiffening the car up overall adds weight.
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2016 19:35 |
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2024 18:22 |
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Coredump posted:Imagine, just imagine... same power, suspension, body, etc of the GT350.... but carbon fiber. Can you imagine how insanely awesome the vehicle would feel and drive with 500 - 700 lbs taken off? I mean, at that point you're basically slapping a horse badge (and a pedestrian bloodlust) on this:
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2016 20:53 |
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The blood god that has been terrorizing Flat Rock may have finally been appeased.
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# ¿ Oct 11, 2016 20:33 |
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Cocoa Crispies posted:Is the automatic no longer a boring torque converter unit? Nothing about the slushbox in the 2016 I rented made me think "wow, this is modern, I wish I didn't have a manual," including DC area traffic. How have you been here that long and never picked up on frozenphil's one-note song? -signed, a poster who doesn't own anything with a stick right now
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# ¿ Jan 25, 2017 20:57 |
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Also, isn't that 4.0 SOHC the same one in the Explorer and Ranger that loves to poo poo its timing chain abomination all over the place?
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# ¿ Feb 17, 2017 00:21 |
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kalvick posted:LPT, if you buy your battery from places that have 2 year warranties, you can just bring it back to the store where you bought it and replace it every other year and say it doesnt hold and charge and they swap it out for free. Walmart and Autozone do this. AutoZone usually wants to test the battery in my experience. Costco, on the other hand, doesn't even have the ability to do so as far as I can tell.
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2017 06:44 |
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Yeah, annual seems to be the upper limit of any maintenance schedule I've ever seen. I think the assumption is that oil exposed to the elements in an engine will eventually goes off a bit.
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# ¿ Mar 26, 2017 05:59 |
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Cage posted:I've been thinking about going back to the oem air filter since my engine is stock and untuned. I'd rather not worry about oiling my filter juuuust enough to actually work but not too much that it fouls my MAF, which is probably part of the reason I get such terrible mpg currently (and a CEL). Alternatively, consider going with an AEM dryflow filter? I had one on my MS3 and I liked it a lot. I'll put one on my LS1 one of these days.
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2017 18:09 |
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Cage posted:Yeah, NY so I needed a carb midpipe to pass inspection but the brand new cat I got broke apart after 3 weeks and rattled. Got it replaced and it did the same thing so I went with a Pypes offroad h-pipe. The catback has been the same since I had the car, which is a cherry bomb with some sort of random welded tubing and tips. Stick a borescope in the cylinder?
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2017 22:53 |
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Cage posted:Ive never delt with drum brakes before either but the car doesn't go that fast so not too worried. I know there will be a bunch of rear disc conversions out there anyway. I was going to say, modding any Fox car is pretty much easy-mode because they're simple and insanely well supported in the aftermarket. In terms of braking performance, rear drums are fine for that car as it sits. You'll cook the front discs long before you toast the rears. They are just enough of a pain to maintain to be worth getting rid of.
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# ¿ May 11, 2017 17:00 |
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Kalvick was right
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2017 18:13 |
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Eco poop
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# ¿ Jul 2, 2017 16:40 |
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Yeah, keep in mind that no matter how minor a niggle someone may have about a car, it is always cheaper for the manufacturer to fix it than buy it back. Even if it was something like "the trunk gap is uneven", that means Ford was literally unable at any level to correct the issue.
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2017 23:11 |
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I doubt he'll be able to find out any real reason why it was lemoned.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2017 19:27 |
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Elephanthead posted:At the risk of killing any posts to this thread the lemon stang is off. They refused to cave on a $495 document fee even after a week. Moving on to a nice black one with leather seats. Thanks for everyone concerned I not spend the market adjustment on a GT 350 on a lemon stang. While this is the Right Choice, I have never, ever heard of any dealership budging on that. They all charge the local legal maximum or drat near it.
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2017 01:21 |
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Calipers will absolutely get a lot hotter than 200 degrees under hard braking. This is (one of the reasons) why water-contaminated brake fluid is such a problem.
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2017 18:58 |
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Seems like you could also get someone's cast-off factory alloys and put winter tires on those, if you don't like the idea of rolling on steelies part of the year.
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2017 00:17 |
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H2SO4 posted:I pronounce both of those words as "say-lean". Mods. Mods never sleep.
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# ¿ Sep 26, 2017 19:09 |
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kalvick posted:that has got to be the most bizarre thing to hear that for the 1st time. can you adjust it with the volume control? or is it always just a hum from the speakers? I've only driven one car, one time that did this over the speakers - a BMW i8. It worked impressively well there.
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2017 20:10 |
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Dick Burglar posted:Didn't the late gen M cars do it too? I dunno if current gen ones still do, but I think I remember Das Volk commenting about it in his M3. Yeah, BMW does it in a lot more than just the i8 - but nobody's ever thrown me the keys to anything else
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2017 20:37 |
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RFC2324 posted:That's more controls than i have in my 03. That's because somehow Ford also hosed it up in the other direction, taking away the recirc and a/c buttons and mapping them to positions on one knob.
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# ¿ Mar 27, 2018 04:14 |
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Larrymer posted:You usually want to check fluid level on auto trannies when they're up to temp and running. Generally. Yup. Between the large volume of ATF in the system and how much the fluid itself expands when hot, my Jeep won't even have fluid on the dipstick if you check it when the fluid is 40 degrees or below. My Honda is the only one I've ever seen or heard of that you don't check while running, and it's actually more obnoxious for it. You have to run it, warm it up, shut it off, then check it after 60-90 seconds.
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# ¿ Jun 14, 2018 14:21 |
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kalvick posted:torque converter drain What? Why?
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# ¿ Apr 3, 2019 17:21 |
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The fluid in the torque converter is the same fluid that's in the rest of the transmission, so why go to the extra effort of draining it and then having to pump it back up when you start the car? Does Ford actually put a drain plug on the converter or something? I'd just do two or three fluid changes in the pan with some driving in between and call it good.
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# ¿ Apr 3, 2019 18:51 |
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Some limited slips with some synthetic gear oils don't need any added friction modifier. I'd get the Lubelocker, dump some good 75w140 synthetic in, and drive it and listen for binding.
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# ¿ May 10, 2019 17:46 |
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To be fair I don't think I would have ever even thought to check that. Why the gently caress does it even have enough threads so that it's even possible to screw the stock knob on too far?
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# ¿ May 19, 2019 02:26 |
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Honestly can't tell if that's for a Mustang rear window or a JL Wrangler hood.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2019 21:50 |
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Are Mustangs still using an 8.8 center section? There's got to be plenty of shops that will work on those, including offroad shops (even if they're used to working on the solid axle version).
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# ¿ May 31, 2020 00:28 |
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All Mustangs should have sequential signals. Especially early SN95s.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2020 03:14 |
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2024 18:22 |
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Cage posted:Nice, anymore deets? Pics? Build this, but use one of the non-obviously-Mustang front ends and make up some Focus badges in a late 80s/early 90s Ford motif.
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# ¿ Feb 2, 2021 20:08 |