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IOwnCalculus posted:If it's anything like the GM version (and it probably is), removing it can be as simple as unplugging the solenoid. That solenoid probably also saved you a gas guzzler tax, so don't hate on it too much. Unfortunately it isn't, you need to disable it via software. It's the one reason I got a tune. Other option is rev it out in a first a little bit when you start out and you'll never see it.
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2012 14:10 |
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 20:33 |
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Rabble posted:Wait, really? You're leaning out so fuel economy should be better. Also, by default Ford limits available torque below 3k rpms for what is likely drivability concerns and there's always some power left on the table so yes they're most likely exaggerated but real
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2012 18:16 |
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Devyl posted:If Ford doesn't decide to bring it back in '15, then yes; it'll be worth big bucks eventually in the future. But my folks are hearing rumors of another 302 or Boss variant for the 2015 total refresh of the Mustang. Otherwise, you get Boss Mustangs like the Shinoda Boss on the SN95 chassis. Despite being a factory "Boss" option, today they can be picked up for a cheap price. Special edition Mustangs are cash machines for Ford and the dealerships. Regardless of what it's called, there will be numerous special edition Mustangs on the 2015 platform and beyond. I'd like to see a Mach1 myself
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2012 18:22 |
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lazer_chicken posted:Changing the spark plugs is hilariously awful on the 3-valve modular. It uses really long spark plugs that like to break off in the head, which then takes a special (expensive) tool to remove the broken plug. Most shops are going to charge a lot to do it because they know that most likely at least one plug is going to break. A shop near me charges $500 labor (plus parts) for plugs on the 3-valve. Have the spark plugs ever been changed? If not then that's a good place to start. 146k is a lot for original plugs. I refuse to believe it's worse than changing the plugs on a 4th gen Camaro.
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2012 20:38 |
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Giblet Plus! posted:As an engineer, let me explain this phenomenon: That's true but the other issue is that service is really a secondary goal, the primary goal is getting the car together on the assembly line with as few quality control issues as possible. It gets even worse if something gets revised late in the design cycle to address something found in testing. Often something needs to be fixed while affecting as little around it as possible to keep costs down. You see a lot of manufacturers fixing issues in software now that might've meant a recall and replacement of major components 15-20 years ago. Also, nobody's boss is going to be impressed by the engineer who makes the car easier to work on but makes it harder to assemble by workers who range from incredibly skilled line workers to knuckleheads who may very well be high or drunk.
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2012 14:37 |
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Locobono posted:Good advice. When do the 14's drop? March usually unless there's an issue. edit: You should be able to beat invoice at this stage of the game, a '13 is already almost a year old. I paid invoice + 500 on a dealer ordered '11
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2012 13:29 |
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coolskillrex remix posted:its like an $600 job in labor alone. Ive heard 3.55 is comparable if you can find that. 3.31 is bleh though. Agreed, I actually ordered my 2011 with the 3.55 gears because they trap better quarter mile times stock than the 3.73s. The 3.73s require an extra shift into 5th whereas the 3.55s (stock) don't need 5th. Not sure if the extra 8 horsepower changes anything.
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2012 16:59 |
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Rhyno posted:This guy is literally my best friend in the world. I'm trying to keep him from making a huge mistake. Just me saying "don't buy it, its a pile of poo poo" won't work. It won't work if he's got a hard on for the car already but you can always try to convince him to buy one that hasn't been in 2 accidents. At the very least convince him to drive it and compare it to something else. I know this is a Mustang thread but I'd much rather spend that kind of money on an 5 or 6 year old GTI than on a 4.0L V6 because I've made a similar mistake. Terrible performance, mediocre efficiency and it's just not fun. Nobody is impressed by a hairdresser trim level Mustang and all you'll hear is "Is that a V8? No? Oh well at least it looks fast". There is no pre 2011 V6 worth buying...period.
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# ¿ Jan 10, 2013 14:26 |
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amp281 posted:I'm kicking around the idea of getting a little blower like the Roush m90 or doing the Dept of Boost kit. I wouldn't mind making 400 rwhp (about a 100 more than current) and don't really feel like making more than that since thats about the limit of reliable operation on the 3v. I figure 400 would get me competitive with the 5.0 and the random vettes and gtos. Would also stomp most imports. I also have 4.10s and I figured any more power and I'd be better off with my original 3.55. I think 4.10s might be a little bit much for a car you want to drive on the street with either of those kits. If you wanted to keep those gears go with a centrifugal supercharger or go the turbo route. Also, that Department of Boost kit is as cool as poo poo. PS: Whatever gears you choose don't be stupid on the street kronix fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jan 17, 2013 |
# ¿ Jan 17, 2013 21:12 |
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Just curious, I don't know anyone running a blown 3v but wouldn't the instant torque from a roots style supercharger make the the 4.10s overkill? Wouldn't you want the 4.10s a turbocharged application to keep the car high in the power band?
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# ¿ Jan 18, 2013 16:25 |
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 20:33 |
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Tide posted:I couldn't tell you how many times I put mine in reverse at a stoplight thinking I was in first . The reverse lockout (push down, go left then up) on mine barely works. If you put ANY weight on it, it will go straight to R instead of 1. Now I 'find' second, then go to first. I agree, ford has it fixed the in the Focus ST. Reverse is in the same place but you have to pull up a collar to engage it, so it's much more deliberate than it is on the Mustang.
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2013 21:43 |