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INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!

Monkey Lincoln posted:

Personally I think Miyota makes the best movements available, typical over under is +/- 15 seconds a month for them or any other decent brand.

You're confusing mechanical with quartz movements. A quartz movement is good for +/- 1 second a day (you'll find them in the free watch that came with your cereal box), the good thermo-compensated ones are like +/- a couple seconds a YEAR (you'll find them on like $5000 Breitlings).

An average Swiss mechanical movement like the ETA 2824 (found in $300+ Swiss mechanical watches) is good for +/- 15 seconds A DAY. The highest grade mechanical movements are rated CHRONOMETER by the COSC, an independent group that tests watch movements for something like 15 straight days. The requirement is +6 to -4 seconds a day, with minimal positional variation. Each chronometer movement was tested and has a unique chronomter serial number and certificate. Rolex watches are certified chronomters, and generally run a couple of seconds fast or slow a day.

A couple seconds fast or slow might sound terrible, but it's not that bad. Because mechanical watches run at different rates depending on position. You can experiment by leaving the watch in a different position overnight, and it will cancel out any gain / loss experienced during the day. My $500 Swiss mechanical watch (non-chronomter) gets like +3 seconds a week because of this.

Also there's this thing called regulation. You can adjust the rate of a mechanical watch to get as close to zero as possible. Higher end movements are more stable, they'll have a steady error rate, so regulation can bring that error rate down to zero. Lower-end movements have more variation in rate, so even if the average rate is brought down to zero, you'll still have some variation based on position. Basically, precision is more important than accuracy when looking at a watch.

The thing is, mechanical movements need to be serviced generally every 5 years. They need to be disassembled, cleaned, reassembled, and oiled. Odds are the dead banker who bought that gold Rolex 30 years ago didn't know a thing about watches other than Rolex "is the best according to what my Men's magazine says".

In short, don't just make your watch pretty on the outside. Get it serviced for real and it'll keep time well.

Edit: Also, "Swiss Made" means that 51% of the VALUE of the watch has to come from Switzerland, the movement has to be made in Switzerland, and that the encasing and major assembly processes are Swiss. Not that it has a couple of Swiss screws, and the rest is made in a sweatshop in Thailand.

INTJ Mastermind fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Jul 27, 2010

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INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!

Lucidphoole posted:

I'm planning on buying a Rolex Yachtmaster.

Don't buy a Yachtmaster. It's hideous and stupid. You'll "impress" all the wrong people, and the ones in the know will think you're a gigantic twat. If it must be a Rolex, get a Submariner or the GMT IIc, to show that you actually have some class to go along with your fat wallet.

If you want something expensive and classy, get a Patek Phillipe.

INTJ Mastermind fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Jul 27, 2010

INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!

StopShootingMe posted:

What are the most mechanically interesting/well designed watches?

Look at Patek Philipe's Grand Complication line. They have perpetual calendars (the date automatically adjusts for 30 day months / februrary, taking into account leap years), minute repeaters (a bell sounds out the time when you press a lever), moon phase, dual flyback chronographs etc.

Oh yeah, you'll never be able to even afford the regular service fee, much less actually hope to own one.

INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!

yt2005 posted:

My brother's Movado

Don't buy him a loving Movado. Movado uses $10 quartz movements and dresses them up in a silly case, and charges 2000% markup for a watch that can't even tell time. There is literally nothing of worth in a Movado watch.

Use whatever your budget for him is, and get him a nice watch from a real watch company. Get him something that says "I am a man of means, a sophisticated individual with fine taste." instead of "HAY GUYZ!! I'M A MOUTH-BREATHING RETARDED MAN-CHILD!" (see yachtmaster goon above)

Edit: To be fair, you can say Movado is the "Tiffany" of watches. It definitely appeals to a "certain kind" of person, but is that kind of person what you see in your brother?

INTJ Mastermind fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Jul 29, 2010

INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!

Monkey Lincoln posted:

I'm not crazy about Movados...

Sentimental things are one of those annoying times when you have to throw logic out the window, and bend over and take it up the rear end. E.G.: My girlfriend REALLY likes Tiffany. FFFFF..... WOMEN!!!!

INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!

Lilac posted:

I spent 300$ at amazon.com on a movado juro to wear on formal occasions. Try finding a real watch for that money.
Also, it keeps better time than any of my automatics.

The Movado Juro is a quartz watch that retails for $1000. If you got it for $300, congrats! I feel $300 is the MOST you should be paying for a simple quartz watch.

A $10 Timex will also keep as good time as your $300-1000 Movado. Luxury watches aren't so much about accuracy as design, movement, history, and build quality. At this price, your watch should perform flawlessly and last you a lifetime with proper service.

The $300-1000 price bracket is largely filled with overpriced crap (like Movado, Invicta, etc.), but there's some real gems in there if you do the research.

Tissot makes some great Swiss timepieces in that price range. This is also the high-end of the Seiko / Citizen lines, so you can get some very nice watches from them too if you're looking Japanese.

Also consider small independent Swiss manufacturers like Oris, Stowa, Steinhart, Christopher Ward, etc. They can offer some high quality ETA 2824/2892 automatics for ~$300-500, and even a Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph for <$1000.

Basically you're looking for the following: Swiss MADE not Swiss MOVT (except for Seiko or Citizen obviously), ETA automatic movement, Sapphire crystal, well-built and sturdy case, bracelet, and clasp.

INTJ Mastermind fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jul 31, 2010

INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!

yt2005 posted:

1. Does Stührling just make really shoddy watches, or was it just weird luck that the only two watches of theirs I've ever seen broke?

Yeah Sturhling is crap. It's a cheap Chinese watch company with a fancy European name, a made-up history, and a $2000 MSRP miraculously discounted 90% JUST FOR YOU!!! I think there used to be a "Steiner" too; same idea.

There's a watch megathread on the watch&woot subforum, and watchuseek.com is a big watch forum.

A general guideline: Be careful of a watch that doesn't say "SWISS MADE" on the dial (unless it's a Japanese of course). And real luxury watches are almost never discounted past 30%.

INTJ Mastermind fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Aug 9, 2010

INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!
Get a tungstun carbide ring! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuqgI0g-Tc4&feature=related

INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!
A lot of Asians like their rings in 24kt gold. There's something really pimping about a bright yellow ring. Try an Asian jeweler I guess?

INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!
I just dropped an orange into a cup of water to test that data. Well I'll be damned, they float!

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INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!
Is it weird to bring a loupe to a jewelry store?

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