Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

I've been running my 2500k at 4.0ghz from the first power on with my new system with absolutely no problems at all. I decided to run download Real Temp and Prime 95 last night to see what my temps are.

Got as high as 74°C before I shut down Prime95 (less than 10 minutes of running). Dropped the multiplier back to 33x and have been running Prime95 in the background, temps are about 66°C.

I'm pretty sure I installed the stock cooler correctly (it doesn't move at all, clips are all correct), although I didn't take the time to dig out my Arctic Silver and just used the thermal paste that Intel ships on their stock cooler. Anandtech had a system running at 4.4ghz on the stock cooler - although I don't recall seeing their temperatures anywhere.

I'm seriously considering a Cooler Master Hyper212 cooler just to get my temps down. I smoked an Athlon many years ago trying to overclock it on inadequate cooling and don't want to do the same thing with my new CPU.

Am I over thinking this? Should I even worry about temps that high?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

Kashwashwa posted:

You should try to get your voltage down first. You may have a chip that can run at 4.0ghz with way less voltage than the motherboard thinks it needs. I'm assuming you have it set to auto since you haven't said otherwise.

Following the guide posted earlier, I started at 1.12v and after a couple of spectacular failures at loading Win 7, went to 1.2 at the stock multiplier. Temps aren't really any lower while running Prime95.

One thing that is interesting is that while Real Temp is giving me temps of around 30° at idle, SpeedFan and the Gigabyte software are showing them around 16-17°C. I'm not sure why the values are different when they're supposed to be reading the same sensors.

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

Wedesdo posted:

For me, the temperature on Core 0 is always a good 8-10 C lower than temps on Core 1 and 2. I think EasyTune reads the Core 0 temperature only.

My theory? Core 0 is next to the unused (for us) graphics core, so it has a lot of excess silicon to spread the heat around, whereas Core 1 and 2 are surrounded by other heat-generating components.

Both Speedfan and RealTemp show me values for all four cores and they're always within 1-2° of each other.

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

Got my Cooler Master Hyper 212+ earlier this week and installed it. Temps are significantly lower (barely breaking 60 at full load with Prime95).

Keeping my vcore at 1.25V, I bumped up the multiplier to 42X and tried to run Prime95 - immediate BSOD. Voltage is back to Auto and honestly with the temps where they're at, I'm not going to worry about it. I'll probably go up to 43-44X and call it good.

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

Just finished my Sandy Bridge motherboard RMA swap. So far, so good, it was relatively painless. Powered down, swapped boards, booted and enabled ACHI in the BIOS, then started into Windows. It installed drivers and everything seems to be working now.

If anything, I'm glad I had to do it since it gave me a chance to tweak my cable routing and clean it up inside the case.

It is a GA-P67A-UD3-B3 - and I had no trouble booting to my SSD with AHCI, so unknown, I think you got a bum board.

Most of the problems were with Newegg's return process for these boards. They never got back with me after I responded to the email I was supposed to, so I ended up waiting longer than needed for a board.

For return shipping, they generate the UPS label the day they ship out your replacement board. For me, that was Monday, and I didn't get my replacement board until Wednesday. The UPS label must be scanned into their system within 7 days or it is voided. Definitely gives you incentive to get the swap done, just don't go requesting your RMA before you go on a long weekend or something.

LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Apr 2, 2011

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

Did you enable AHCI in Windows before you enabled it in the BIOS? I think there's a registry change you need to make to enable it if you didn't install Windoes with AHCI enabled in your BIOS.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply