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General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Unperson_47 posted:

What PiZero case did you print?

Higher bed temps combined with a high nozzle temp may not allow the PLA on bottom layers to set so they buckle or sag under the weight of the top layers or the force of the nozzle/filament being extruded. I would've thought you'd have problems with upper layers like the layers not adhering to each other or pits if that were the case, though as the top layers would get further and further from the nozzle as it collapses.

What's your temps and do you have any stringing?

A heavily modified version of this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2087537

It's just a temporary case until I finish the one I'm designing.My one just puts the hub above the pi board and has an area for a PCM5102 DAC module.

I checked the settings. 200*C nozzle and 60*C bed. i don't really use Cura in Windows normally so everything was pretty default.
The top layer actually looked as though the nozzle was dragging. Not a drat clue what that was about.

The case is together for now with the guts in it. Makes a nice change from a messy bundle of hardware held together with elastic bands.

e: I guess the Hatchbox pink is good?
I found CCTree white PLA behaved really well for me. Kind of sad I've almost used it up.

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Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007





General_Failure posted:

A heavily modified version of this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2087537

It's just a temporary case until I finish the one I'm designing.My one just puts the hub above the pi board and has an area for a PCM5102 DAC module.

I checked the settings. 200*C nozzle and 60*C bed. i don't really use Cura in Windows normally so everything was pretty default.
The top layer actually looked as though the nozzle was dragging. Not a drat clue what that was about.

The case is together for now with the guts in it. Makes a nice change from a messy bundle of hardware held together with elastic bands.

e: I guess the Hatchbox pink is good?
I found CCTree white PLA behaved really well for me. Kind of sad I've almost used it up.

edit: I just skimmed through some of your posts in the thread and it looks like you've built your own 3D printer. That probably means everything I'm about to say is super basic and you've already checked. Sorry about that.

Maybe the earlier poster suggesting your probalby is overextrusion is right. Or your Z-offset might be too close to the bed so it's pressing into each layer? Is the elephant foot and scrape marks present mainly one one side or corner? If so, bed may not be level.

I've been using a lot of transparent PLA for use with LED projects. My printer is not great so I just buy the cheap filament on eBay, though and it's hard to find it in transparent now.

I'd like to know what y'all's experience with automatically-generated supports is like.

Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 08:53 on May 26, 2020

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Unperson_47 posted:

edit: I just skimmed through some of your posts in the thread and it looks like you've built your own 3D printer. That probably means everything I'm about to say is super basic and you've already checked. Sorry about that.

Maybe the earlier poster suggesting your probalby is overextrusion is right. Or your Z-offset might be too close to the bed so it's pressing into each layer? Is the elephant foot and scrape marks present mainly one one side or corner? If so, bed may not be level.

I've been using a lot of transparent PLA for use with LED projects. My printer is not great so I just buy the cheap filament on eBay, though and it's hard to find it in transparent now.

I'd like to know what y'all's experience with automatically-generated supports is like.

Nah. I just have an Ender 3 Pro. There are people on here that have built their own but I'm not one of them. I'm just a compulsive tinkerer. 3D printing has made it really easy to develop solutions to things I struggled with, like decent cases for things, brackets, mounts, etc. etc. My collection of naked or poorly housed electronics are slowly being tidied up. The kitchen is slowly being optimised (it's small and things I want for holding stuff doesn't exist outside my kitchen), and that sort of thing.

I would really like to build a delta printer at some point, just because I think they are neat.

Here4DaGangBang
Dec 3, 2004

I beat my dick like it owes me money!

snail posted:

Checking in with a colleague who is just about to finish a Voron 2.4, 350x350 sized, and he hasn't cheaped on quality, without going overboard, he's at $2560 AUD to date, and expects it to maybe hit $2,800 by the time he's fully done. $210 AUD is what the filament cost him.

You could probably swap some parts out if you're not chasing stupid print speeds, but he is very keen to have the high speed that has been seen in recent builds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6uNQ83_gok being one of them that was doing the rounds.

Fark me. Thatís nuts.

biracial bear for uncut
Jun 9, 2009

ask me about being the most obnoxious person of all time

Anybody wanna drop Prusa money on a delta printer from Monoprice that's on sale for 41% off today?

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=30993

I mean, on paper that looks like a good machine, but Tom Sanladerer wasn't too impressed with it (he didn't have much negative to say either--depending on how much of a poo poo you give about open source firmware, but if you buy Monoprice printers to begin with you probably don't).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CxeVYJ-Zqw

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

"Limit 20 per customer"


Bloody fascists!

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shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010



Fallen Rib

jessie transition spools came today (they've raised the price to $15 now lol), I opened one so I could see the inside of the spool, yellow outside to gold/orange inside. the other three are blue, pink, and orange to ??? (can't see without unwrapping due to how they package

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