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Unperson_47 posted:I'm seriously considering putting sound baffling inside my printer's enclosure. The cheap high-pitched steppers are pretty harsh. You could also upgrade the mainboard to something with silent stepper drivers, but your posts just talk about your printer taking proprietary gcode so I don't know what it is or how easy that would be. If you want to quiet it down make sure you use something that's not flammable.
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Jun 5, 2020 09:45
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Combat Pretzel posted:I made a feature request for this ages ago over on Prusa, including pictures of the lovely artifacts it creates. Guess it took a fork.
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Jun 5, 2020 13:05
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What are people using for the bed temp for the Jessie filament? Just switched over from Hatchbox black to their gunmetal. Bed is 60 throughout the print with first layer at 210 and everything else at 205. Tried a simple print and had some bed adhesion issues and the first layer wasn't the best either.
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Jun 5, 2020 13:19
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I found a combo pancake stepper and titan extruder clone on Amazon for $20 and decided to convert my Ender to direct drive, because I just can't leave well enough alone and it nearly feature matches a prusa at this point anyway. So I'm setting it up, printed a nice bracket, everything goes in pretty smoothly. I've got the front cover open to install the little bowden piece between the hotend and the extruder and PTANG!!! the loving spring lets loose and shoots me in the forehead and all the pieces fly everywhere. The one thing I can't find is the little plastic filament guide. Now my printer is down because of a piece that would take me 15 minutes to model and print if it were working. i have flown too close to the sun.
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Jun 5, 2020 15:12
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 If you had bought a genuine e3d Titan, it comes with instructions saying to always release tension on the spring before removing the cover specifically so that doesn't happen.
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Jun 5, 2020 15:48
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Sagebrush posted:
I mean, if i had just looked at the thing before loving around with it I probably would have realized that. I think quarantine has made me dumber somehow.
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Jun 5, 2020 16:21
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Help I'm addicted to upgrading my printer, I've spent way more time upgrading it than I have on the projects i bought it for in the first place. Why is this so fun.
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Jun 5, 2020 16:41
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NtotheTC posted:Help I'm addicted to upgrading my printer, I've spent way more time upgrading it than I have on the projects i bought it for in the first place. For me, tinkering with hardware like boards, drivers, sensorless homing, etc is so much fun. My next project is making my own ir runout sensor setup.
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Jun 5, 2020 16:49
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NtotheTC posted:Help I'm addicted to upgrading my printer, I've spent way more time upgrading it than I have on the projects i bought it for in the first place. One of us! One of us! Seriously though, for the right kind of personality that initial printer calibration just opens up a Pandora's box. I've gone through one and a half rolls of filament since getting my printer a month ago and so far I've only printed one terrain piece, which was the original point. Still so fun, though. I have a stupid question about calculating flow rate. So if I printed a test cube using settings that already had a flow rate that is something other than 100%, I need to divide the expected measurement for the cube by the actual measurements to get an adjustment ratio and then multiply that number by the original flow rate, right? So for example if I printed a test cube at 96% and got a ratio of 1.039, my new flow rate should be 96 * 1.039 ≈100%? E: one more stupid question. Does Cura have some way of comparing print settings side-by-side? I've dialed in a 0.16 layer height profile pretty well and I thought I had carried all those settings over to a 0.2 layer height profile, but for some reason when I slice using the 0.2 profile the time estimate to print is oddly longer than on my .16 layer profile. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Jun 5, 2020 |
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Jun 5, 2020 17:08
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calandryll posted:What are people using for the bed temp for the Jessie filament? Just switched over from Hatchbox black to their gunmetal. Bed is 60 throughout the print with first layer at 210 and everything else at 205. Tried a simple print and had some bed adhesion issues and the first layer wasn't the best either. I've been using 60 for bed temp for Jessie, but some of their PLA seems to want a slightly higher temperature - I've had the Golden Glitter at 225 and the others (including a gunmetalish transition roll) at 215.
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Jun 5, 2020 18:45
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calandryll posted:What are people using for the bed temp for the Jessie filament? Just switched over from Hatchbox black to their gunmetal. Bed is 60 throughout the print with first layer at 210 and everything else at 205. Tried a simple print and had some bed adhesion issues and the first layer wasn't the best either. I'm doing 215/210 and 60, which turned out to be the "generic PLA" setting in PrusaSlicer, haha.
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Jun 5, 2020 19:15
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NtotheTC posted:Help I'm addicted to upgrading my printer, I've spent way more time upgrading it than I have on the projects i bought it for in the first place. Have you heard the word of frankenprinter? it's dumber than the prusa, but gosh it tries.
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Jun 5, 2020 19:40
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I hate upgrading my printer. I still keep doing, it though.
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Jun 5, 2020 20:15
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calandryll posted:What are people using for the bed temp for the Jessie filament? Just switched over from Hatchbox black to their gunmetal. Bed is 60 throughout the print with first layer at 210 and everything else at 205. Tried a simple print and had some bed adhesion issues and the first layer wasn't the best either. 215/60 with quarter white.
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Jun 5, 2020 20:17
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Thanks for the replies. I'll try 215/210 on the next print.
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Jun 5, 2020 20:53
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Anyone with a CRS-10 Pro have a good stl for a cooler? I put a microswiss on and its just a tad bit shorter than the stock one and the 3 or 4 vents I’ve printed out have been too big and go below the nozzle.
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Jun 6, 2020 00:28
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Kalman posted:Nope, I have a V6 mounted on my E3, works fine. Make sure you have the 24V version and make sure you printed a carriage mount *before* disassembling the old hot end. Interesting. What are your thoughts on the relative merits? I have most of a mount printed. Well, I have one of the minimalist ones printed, and I have most of a bullseye mount printed. Realised I forgot the front bit of the clamp mount for the hotend. With the Z screw, I realised the lube on it is in a spiral, if that makes sense. Ie there are some splines (?) that are lubricated and some that aren't.
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Jun 6, 2020 02:10
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General_Failure posted:Interesting. What are your thoughts on the relative merits? The E3D is nice for PETG which sometimes ran up against the desirable limit for temperature for a PTFE-throated hotend, and the nozzle quality definitely seems better. Beyond that, I got it fairly early in printer life so can’t say too much as a comparison. Probably worthwhile? Direct drive mounting the extruder was worthwhile although a bit more of a pain.
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Jun 6, 2020 02:38
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KING OV HELL posted:This may have been talked about on a previous page but, anyone got any tips for snagging one of these elegoo Saturn's? I had pre ordered a MMF Mars pro but have received zero communication so I cancelled and am going to try to get a Saturn but the reddit resin guys seemed pretty doom and gloom about elegoos site. Anyone have experience buying stuff direct from them? Apparently the answer is "use a bot to buy it for you" because that's what happened to all of the early bird priced ones. OOS within 20 seconds. I clicked checkout within 5 seconds and it threw me in a queue and then after a minute or so told me they were out! The pre order priced ones were OOS within 3 minutes although it might have been as little as 1-2.
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Jun 6, 2020 15:24
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Yea, I got hosed as well. Had the pre order set and partial set to pay then told it was sold out, had the pre order one set to pay and then got told it was sold out too. Apparently Shopify doesn't keep the poo poo in your cart when you are checking out for some weird reason. Complete clusterfuck with a lot of pissed off people who went from payment processing to WHOOPS ALL GONE.
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Jun 6, 2020 17:05
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Yea, I got hosed as well. Had the pre order set and partial set to pay then told it was sold out, had the pre order one set to pay and then got told it was sold out too. Same here 
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Jun 6, 2020 20:27
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Whoops, meant paypal and not partial. Autocorrect 
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Jun 7, 2020 02:26
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Somehow I managed to get one, just a pre-order but had the same experience. Three seconds from refresh to pay, tossed in the queue, somehow it was pulled from my cart.
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Jun 7, 2020 05:11
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Phenom L: print volume of 346 x 194 x 400 mm  $3200, but still...
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Jun 7, 2020 08:34
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Phenom L: print volume of 346 x 194 x 400 mm Yeah the full cosplay helmets are pretty cool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFpkMRC-4n0
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Jun 7, 2020 08:49
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Phenom L: print volume of 346 x 194 x 400 mm I mean, it'll cost like $50 a print in resin alone if you actually use that volume, so 3 grand doesn't seem that crazy to me.
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Jun 7, 2020 15:48
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Not to mention the money you’ll save on bondo 
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Jun 7, 2020 17:23
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Do people often attempt to build up bigger objects like those masks using multiple smaller resin prints? It’d need a lot of finicky design work involving integrated joinery and locating features, but resin parts are routinely made to close enough tolerances that it seems like it ought to be practical to make assemblies of parts that fit together extremely closely without needing much finishing work, esp if the assembled part has ridges/grooves/line work that you can hide seams in.
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Jun 7, 2020 17:54
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The irritating thing about building prints on a resin printer is the complete pain in the rear end it is to get a flat surface half the time. I've printed minis and a few other "build it" pieces and damned if there wasn't one section that was ) instead of |.
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Jun 7, 2020 21:47
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resin printers have limitations to the geometry they can print accurately or even at all. it's necessary to understand the forces involved as the part is printed in order to design parts that can be printed accurately. the material is only partially cured by the printer so is not at full strength so it can distort during printing or after printing when handling and curing. for thicker structures it's less of a problem but you can also end up with so much surface area prints fail to detach between layers. i often make smaller objects from multiple parts so features can be optimally aligned for printing. for something like a mask i doubt you would even need or want alignment features, it would be enough just to line up the edges. resin bonds well with cyanoacrylate so it is pretty easy to build larger structures from smaller prints. you can even use the resin to bond together sections of cover seams which gives the possibility of invisible joints, at least for more organic shapes.
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Jun 8, 2020 22:59
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Looks like my issue with the Jessie filament was my model. I had put something together in Sketchup because I'm more comfortable in that and the STLs from it were poo poo. I remade what I wanted today in Fusion and printed fine.
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Jun 9, 2020 00:05
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I’ve moved my printer to a warmer part of my unit (assuming the heater is running) in an attempt to get rid of the warping I started to see when the temps started to get colder. It seems better, most spots have only a slight warp, but I’ve noticed that the most badly warped area of the print I’m current running is the left side of the print - the part closest to the heat break fan/heat sink. So I presume that airflow is causing more cooling on that side of the print, and some additional shrouding to shield the print from air movement might be in order. Has anyone else ever needed to look at something like this?
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Jun 9, 2020 04:24
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calandryll posted:Looks like my issue with the Jessie filament was my model. I had put something together in Sketchup because I'm more comfortable in that and the STLs from it were poo poo. I remade what I wanted today in Fusion and printed fine. SketchUp sucks for 3d printing. It makes lots of non-manifold solids and generally doesn't work with slicing and printing. F360 or some other 3d modeling program is far better.
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Jun 9, 2020 05:08
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Has anyone else ever needed to look at something like this? Assuming you're printing ABS, do you absolutely have to print ABS? The only real solution is an enclosure, or use PLA or PETG.
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Jun 9, 2020 05:36
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:Assuming you're printing ABS, do you absolutely have to print ABS? The only real solution is an enclosure, or use PLA or PETG. Nope, PLA+. Which doesn’t bode well for the PETG I will need to print soon.
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Jun 9, 2020 06:26
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sharkytm posted:SketchUp sucks for 3d printing. It makes lots of non-manifold solids and generally doesn't work with slicing and printing. F360 or some other 3d modeling program is far better. Yeah, I used it once, SketchUp, for a very simple print. This wasn't that complex but still all sorts of screwed up. Did a redesign and it's much nicer. However the learning curve for 360 is crazy.
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Jun 9, 2020 11:02
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I still use Sketchup Make 2017 for simple stuff because I just have a 10+ year old laptop and it's faster to get up and going and Fusion360 is sluggish on it. Trying to make any kind of spherical object or anything that doesn't involve straight lines in Sketchup is trouble. I'm trying to use Fusion360 more in general, though. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 11:27 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 11:07
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TinkerCAD is a good simple 3d building program if you don't want to learn a lot of stuff. I've been pushing myself to do more with Fusion 360 because it seems worthwhile to learn the more complicated stuff in the long run but plenty of folks make great models with tinkercad.
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Jun 9, 2020 11:10
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calandryll posted:Yeah, I used it once, SketchUp, for a very simple print. This wasn't that complex but still all sorts of screwed up. Did a redesign and it's much nicer. However the learning curve for 360 is crazy. It is, but it's also a good framework for understanding modern 3d cad programs. And you can't argue with the cost. In completely unrelated news, SolidWorks is spendy... Just bought 2020 Pro. $5500.
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Jun 9, 2020 13:03
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Has anybody tried delving into the depths that is BRL-CAD?
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Jun 9, 2020 14:39
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