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Sockser posted:I was in the first wave of Prusa minis and had to do a lot of tweaking to get it printing remotely reliably with non-prusa filament Honestly I'm a little scared. I hope the one I get has all of the bugs fixed and I can just enjoy printing poo poo.
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Jun 24, 2020 19:19
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Honestly I'm a little scared. I hope the one I get has all of the bugs fixed and I can just enjoy printing poo poo. It will be. All the spools I have run through our two minis have been the Overture PLA and haven’t had a single issue yet.
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Jun 24, 2020 19:32
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How exactly do you gently caress up a printer design in such a way that it can't reliably deal with a multitude of PLA variants nowadays? The Prusa mini has a heated PEI-coated buildplate, no?
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Jun 24, 2020 19:53
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Hey guys, I have a small 3D puzzle design that I put together that I'd like to print up to give out as swag for my team at work, since the shape of the puzzle is our team logo. I printed up a prototype and learned a few things -- first that the tips need to be thicker so they don't break, but I need some engineering/design help on how to make the puzzle joins work better:   The pieces fit together fine -- but don't hold together very well. In the photos above, if you touch that plane at all the pieces fall apart. Anybody have any tips on what kind of shape or approach to use to have a friction-join that will keep the puzzle together? I feel like this kind of thing is a solved problem but I don't have any engineering or material design expertise for what kind of shape to use instead of the jigsaw-style circles.  It's ultimately going to be printed probably with SLS in bulk if that matters. I'm going to be paying a designer to make the changes to my basic design, but I don't actually know what to tell them to change it to, like what kind of join to use to make the puzzle more structurally sound when its assembled. The idea is that people can take it apart or put it together as a fun little fidget thing. I thought maybe there might be some engineers in here who could point me to some dovetail-esque joinery magic that I can explore further. ephori fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Jun 24, 2020 |
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Jun 24, 2020 20:42
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ephori posted:Anybody have any tips on what kind of shape or approach to use to have a friction-join that will keep the puzzle together? I feel like this kind of thing is a solved problem but I don't have any engineering or material design expertise for what kind of shape to use instead of the jigsaw-style circles. Two solid bodies which move 'as one', have exactly 6 independent points of contact. A single jigsaw-piece joint will have either 2, 3, or 4, depending on whether the male tongue balloons out (convex) or sucks in (concave). The art of puzzle design is finding a kinematic 'path', where each point of contact is added one by one over time, until the mechanism locks. It's actually a very tricky problem!
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Jun 24, 2020 21:12
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Found a old server cabinet at a thrift store for $35, I think it makes a nice enclosure. Do you think it has enough passive ventilation that I don't need to move the power supply and electronics outside the cabinet? https://i.imgur.com/dt0GOyZ.jpg 
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Jun 24, 2020 21:28
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Combat Pretzel posted:How exactly do you gently caress up a printer design in such a way that it can't reliably deal with a multitude of PLA variants nowadays? The Prusa mini has a heated PEI-coated buildplate, no? Ask everybody that fights with PLA on their billion knockoff printers. Mostly it comes down to poor surface finish on the internal components of all-metal hotends in my experience.
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Jun 24, 2020 21:33
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Ask everybody that fights with PLA on their billion knockoff printers. "Just buy a Prusa, they use high quality components and that's why they charge 3x as much" kinda removes that as an excuse. (Also, they fight with it because they're doing a bad job leveling 99% of the time.)
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Jun 24, 2020 22:03
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Combat Pretzel posted:How exactly do you gently caress up a printer design in such a way that it can't reliably deal with a multitude of PLA variants nowadays? The Prusa mini has a heated PEI-coated buildplate, no? With the first batch of Prusa minis, is was an issue with the nozzle not being tight enough, which would cause a bulb to form on the end of the filament when it retracted, and then a jam, and then the extruder gears grinding on the filament until there wasn’t enough left to drive But then Prusament is just so dang loving good that this somehow wasn’t a problem
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Jun 24, 2020 22:10
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Mofabio posted:Two solid bodies which move 'as one', have exactly 6 independent points of contact. A single jigsaw-piece joint will have either 2, 3, or 4, depending on whether the male tongue balloons out (convex) or sucks in (concave). The art of puzzle design is finding a kinematic 'path', where each point of contact is added one by one over time, until the mechanism locks. It's actually a very tricky problem! Well drat. That makes sense, but sounds like it is likely beyond my level of skill here or what I would get for a couple hours of design time from a freelancer.
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Jun 24, 2020 22:32
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Sockser posted:With the first batch of Prusa minis, is was an issue with the nozzle not being tight enough, which would cause a bulb to form on the end of the filament when it retracted, and then a jam, and then the extruder gears grinding on the filament until there wasn’t enough left to drive sounds like tolerance stacking
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Jun 25, 2020 01:10
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shovelbum posted:sounds like tolerance stacking Honestly it’s not even tolerance stacking, it was an issue in assembly— I just had to snug up the ptfe tube or the nozzle or something, no parts changing required I saw someone on the Prusa describe it as accidental DRM, which gave me a laugh
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Jun 25, 2020 02:15
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What is the option in Marlin to probe the bed with a BLTouch in 9 or 16 spots and build a heat-map that gets automatically applied to my prints? Don't tell me it's loving UBL because that poo poo is completely incomprehensible and entirely overengineered for what it needs to do. I want to do a G28 then G29 in my start code and have everything JustWork.
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Jun 25, 2020 02:27
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insta posted:What is the option in Marlin to probe the bed with a BLTouch in 9 or 16 spots and build a heat-map that gets automatically applied to my prints? Bilineal Auto bed leveling?
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Jun 25, 2020 04:33
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Bilinear should do it. Speaking of linear, I'm trying to dial-in linear advance on my ender 3. Is it advisable to "babystep" the k factor during a print, and which direction should I go if I'm still seeing a slight amount of oozing?
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Jun 25, 2020 04:41
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ephori posted:Well drat. That makes sense, but sounds like it is likely beyond my level of skill here or what I would get for a couple hours of design time from a freelancer. There is an Aussie YouTuber called Maker’s Muse, he has a thing for puzzles and weird mechanisms. He might be worth contacting to see if that’s the sort of thing he might be able to some design tweaking on? He has a website and there are contact details for design work on there, IIRC. EDIT: nope, just checked his website and he doesn’t do consulting work at this time. Sorry!
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Jun 25, 2020 04:44
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It was bilinear. Thanks guys! All my Creality machines are running, and 5/6 MakerGears are. Feels good man  Oh and Intamsys finally replaced my glass bed. They tried to go the "glass isn't warrantied because it breaks in normal usage" route.
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Jun 25, 2020 07:07
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.
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Jun 25, 2020 09:56
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Oh hello there!Snackmar posted:Is the washed one feeling a bit tack-y at all? I've found that dishsoap can help, and a combo of that and some clearcoat can get you nice and shiny again. I've also done the whole progressively finer sanding and a buffing wheel option but god it takes forever
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Jun 25, 2020 11:15
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Hey where is this thread bailing out to Edit oh hey breadnroses has an active 3d printer thread and maker forum shovelbum fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Jun 25, 2020 |
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Jun 25, 2020 17:05
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It is here
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Jun 26, 2020 19:44
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Does it come with mini Haribo??
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Jun 26, 2020 20:08
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it's so cute I'm honestly kinda bummed I don't ever need another Bowden machine, seems like it'd be a slam dunk otherwise
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Jun 26, 2020 20:59
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It's so drat quiet, holy poo poo. Yeah it came with a mini bag of haribo but I'm an infidel that isn't interested in them. EDIT: I made a build area-filling skull print with Prusa Slicer and will let that run over the weekend on my desk at work (really it'll be done sometime tomorrow and the machine will go into it's sleep/idle state, apparently, if the screen that it showed when it was done with the sample print is any indicator).
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Jun 26, 2020 21:14
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That control panel looks pretty slick.
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Jun 26, 2020 22:06
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I need to setup an easy to move enclosure for prints for my mp10 - is there a recommended enclosure that’ll hold a 300x300x400mm printer?
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Jun 27, 2020 18:42
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I have been using a grow tent and am surprised that it's not more common. Insulated, mostly airtight, and has ports for installing ventilation if need be. Super easy to love around or collapse and fold up for easy storage.
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Jun 27, 2020 19:03
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F in chat, boys. 
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Jun 27, 2020 19:09
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F Wow.. hopefully it tore loose from the bed instead of trying to rip the mount off?
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Jun 27, 2020 19:14
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Mikey Purp posted:I have been using a grow tent and am surprised that it's not more common. Insulated, mostly airtight, and has ports for installing ventilation if need be. Super easy to love around or collapse and fold up for easy storage. Yeah, since like you said they are not expensive. Kind of inconveniently sized but w/e. Not a bad idea for an enclosure at all. ^^^^ I couldn't even figure out what I was looking at, is that the hot end?
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Jun 27, 2020 19:35
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insta posted:F in chat, boys. I don't want to alarm you but I'd get rid of that thing before it hatches.
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Jun 27, 2020 20:07
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Holy gently caress.
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Jun 27, 2020 21:14
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ho hoooo that one's a doozy.
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Jun 27, 2020 23:42
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What...is going on there?
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Jun 28, 2020 00:16
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Print detached from the bed and entombed the hotend in like 300g of PETG.
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Jun 28, 2020 00:26
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insta posted:Print detached from the bed and entombed the hotend in like 300g of PETG. F I was really hoping that wasn't the case and that you just were doing something fun and silly and it turned out bad.
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Jun 28, 2020 00:55
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you can tell this has happened before by the fact that there are connectors on the heater and sensor cables
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Jun 28, 2020 01:21
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:you can tell this has happened before by the fact that there are connectors on the heater and sensor cables Haha, yeah, sorta. That's just stock MakerGear though. They have a really nicely thought-out extruder/hotend setup. Makes swapping hotends super easy. That said, since I do print as a side business, hotends on all my machines are definitely designed to swap quickly. I also keep plenty of spares of all of them.
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Jun 28, 2020 04:04
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Yeh, what's wrong with connectors? Makes it easier for maintenance and rebuilding.
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Jun 28, 2020 09:56
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Do you guys have any tips for injecting something into the hollow prints to give them some weight? Other than like concrete  Resin would work of course but would defeat the purpose of printing hollow, but it'd need to be something similarly fluid that could be injected through a small hole, and would then set/cure without blowing up the print.
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Jun 28, 2020 14:44
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