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Kalman
Jan 17, 2010

USPOL May

Check the duct setups hangtight designs - no fancy name but they work and print well.

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toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


A lot of my worry/apprehension seems to come from the constant refrain of "If it ain't broke don't gently caress with it" but balanced against "but i can make it better in just a few steps.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

I wanted orange.

It gave me lemon-lime.



ok but quit loving with it

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Deviant posted:

ok but quit loving with it

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?

You can totally get away with printing a Satsana duct in PLA, by the way. I've got one in ABS on my v2 and another in PLA on my OG Ender 3. Both have hundreds of hours of printing under their belts with no issues. It just doesn't get all that hot where the ducts end, especially with the sock on the heater block. My biggest concern is the rare situation where I need to remove the duct while the nozzle is still hot, since I'm always a little worried about bumping it and melting the plastic.

You should still use at least PETG, but it's not going to immediately fail or anything if you've only got PLA on hand. I figure I'll replace mine with ABS when/if it actually fails.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013



Very happy with the part cooling duct on the EVA mount:
https://main.eva-3d.page/drives/orbiter/
STEP files are available, so it should be easy to modify to whatever printer you got.

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"


toplitzin posted:

A lot of my worry/apprehension seems to come from the constant refrain of "If it ain't broke don't gently caress with it" but balanced against "but i can make it better in just a few steps.

Is the inability to leave well enough alone not the most Goon-like quality?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Serenade posted:

Is the inability to leave well enough alone not the most Goon-like quality?

Right?

I'm happy with it right now.
It prints good stuff, the first layer is sometimes funky, but otherwise it makes great PLA prints without much fuss.

I've managed to talk myself down from chasing anything else (auto levelers/touch, silent boards, new/fancier extruders etc, or chasing high speed printing), but am printing the duct for the next time i have to clean a clog/end up taking the hot end apart again.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

I wanted orange.

It gave me lemon-lime.




i had a shower inspiration that 3d printers are just like airsoft guns in that the easiest way to turn a working one into a non working one is to open it and gently caress with it

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Deviant posted:

i had a shower inspiration that 3d printers are just like airsoft guns in that the easiest way to turn a working one into a non working one is to open it and gently caress with it

Also murphy's law of talking about how happy you are with how its working, and now I'm getting quite crappy raft/brims:

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004





toplitzin posted:

Also murphy's law of talking about how happy you are with how its working, and now I'm getting quite crappy raft/brims:


Given that your brim is worse on the corners, looks like an X/Y axis problem, like loose screws in your frame, or you've got this thing sitting on a wobbly card table, maybe bad PLA too?

It's really interesting to see people posting these terrible prints, but my ender 3 has been printing near-injection molding quality stuff out of the box since I got it; like, this has been a solved technology for about four years now and people are still posting stuff that looks like it was printed on 2012 era reprap stuff

Edit: you're printing on an ender 3 pro? Wtf did you do to your printer

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Apr 19, 2021

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Hadlock posted:

Given that your brim is worse on the corners, looks like an X/Y axis problem, like loose screws in your frame, or you've got this thing sitting on a wobbly card table, maybe bad PLA too?

It's really interesting to see people posting these terrible prints, but my ender 3 has been printing near-injection molding quality stuff out of the box since I got it; like, this has been a solved technology for about four years now and people are still posting stuff that looks like it was printed on 2012 era reprap stuff

Edit: you're printing on an ender 3 pro? Wtf did you do to your printer

This has been mostly hit, with some initial missteps due to a loose X gantry.
It's on a largish bookshelf on the side of the room/not in a place that gets bumped/nudged often.
I went through 3 other spools of Sunlu PLA and things have been almost perfect till this spool, and I understand white can also be more finicky, but this is just odd, and mostly constrained to the first layer.

Like everything else has been



Dr Sun Try
May 23, 2009




Plaster Town Cop

toplitzin posted:

This has been mostly hit, with some initial missteps due to a loose X gantry.
It's on a largish bookshelf on the side of the room/not in a place that gets bumped/nudged often.
I went through 3 other spools of Sunlu PLA and things have been almost perfect till this spool, and I understand white can also be more finicky, but this is just odd, and mostly constrained to the first layer.

Like everything else has been


I have no idea, what that is, but i want it

could you post a link for the model?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Dr Sun Try posted:

I have no idea, what that is, but i want it

could you post a link for the model?

Totoro!

I print the smallest one at like 25% when i want to kill that last couple feet of filament.


Edit: yup, everything but the first layer is great

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Apr 19, 2021

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS


toplitzin posted:

Totoro!

I print the smallest one at like 25% when i want to kill that last couple feet of filament.


Edit: yup, everything but the first layer is great



I had something really similar to this dumb bullshit. Make sure your z axis is straight up and down. If not the little bracket on top of the motor needs some washers been it and the frame to make it vertical.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!


toplitzin posted:

Edit: yup, everything but the first layer is great


That's either being to high off the bed, or underextrusion.

It turns out, even DEEPLY UNDEREXTRUDED parts look good. And can look AMAZING.

What slicer are you using?

SchnorkIes
Jan 12, 2021

If you see me posting it's probably a bunch of facebook fwd from your aunt level misinformation about covid. But don't worry, I won't get banned for it, absurd fear mongering histrionics isn't bannable, it's totally fine for me to fearmonger vaccines for months then post about how I've gotten THREE.

toplitzin posted:

Totoro!

I print the smallest one at like 25% when i want to kill that last couple feet of filament.


Edit: yup, everything but the first layer is great



Can you take a picture of the underside of that bridge?

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!


SchnorkIes posted:

Can you take a picture of the underside of that bridge?

it only LOOKS like a big bridge. I made a note of people not designing things to be printed? The Satsana has a maximum bridge of like.. 15mm? (I checked, it's 16mm) Everything else is supported by at most a 45 deg angle.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT




toplitzin posted:

Also murphy's law of talking about how happy you are with how its working, and now I'm getting quite crappy raft/brims:


That's not just the brim, that whole print is underextruded by a lot. If you're still using the stock plastic ender extruder i'll give you three guesses as to what the problem is.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

If I print slow and have an octopi and octoprint set up, will I benefit from adding Klipper into the mix?

snail
Sep 25, 2008

CHEESE!

aldantefax posted:

If I print slow and have an octopi and octoprint set up, will I benefit from adding Klipper into the mix?

I have a massive fetish for klipper, and I had converted my CR-30 in less than 3 hours after getting it, yet I do say if your existing workflow is working and there's nothing about klipper's feature set that's telling you you must have, don't.

It does leave a lot of other firmwares looking quite lackluster in the QoL department, but the overhead is you do need that Pi for your printer to work at all, and I'd really strongly advise using mainsail, fluidd or dwc instead of octoprint as the integration is much better.

tl;dr if you're not looking to live your life a quarter mile at a time, stick with your existing workflow.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!






A friend just gifted me his MMU2S because he had a shitload of problems with it and wanted to go back to just having a working printer


So now I've got a fully assembled MMU, but none of the extruder parts, which is fine because, well, they're all printable




But I don't know what this threaded insert is. Some sort of PTFE fitting but I'm not sure exactly what I need. Anyone know?

e:

also a comment in the assembly guide recommended swapping out the 2mm ID PTFE in the hotend for a 1.85 ID one, but all I can find searching around is more 2mm, unless I buy it from Prusa and... well buying $1 of PTFE and having it shipped from Prague seems silly

e2:
whatever gently caress it textured sheets for the mini are in stock so I'm just gonna order the sheet and some PTFE and the couple of MMU parts I need

Sockser fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Apr 20, 2021

mewse
May 2, 2006




Sockser posted:

also a comment in the assembly guide recommended swapping out the 2mm ID PTFE in the hotend for a 1.85 ID one, but all I can find searching around is more 2mm, unless I buy it from Prusa and... well buying $1 of PTFE and having it shipped from Prague seems silly

Capricorn bowden tube is smaller than 2mm - common mod for enders and should be available locally

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Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



Sockser posted:

A friend just gifted me his MMU2S because he had a shitload of problems with it and wanted to go back to just having a working printer


So now I've got a fully assembled MMU, but none of the extruder parts, which is fine because, well, they're all printable




But I don't know what this threaded insert is. Some sort of PTFE fitting but I'm not sure exactly what I need. Anyone know?

e:

also a comment in the assembly guide recommended swapping out the 2mm ID PTFE in the hotend for a 1.85 ID one, but all I can find searching around is more 2mm, unless I buy it from Prusa and... well buying $1 of PTFE and having it shipped from Prague seems silly

e2:
whatever gently caress it textured sheets for the mini are in stock so I'm just gonna order the sheet and some PTFE and the couple of MMU parts I need

I have no idea if this is correct but this MMU clone build BOM section calls this an Mk3 nut which kind of looks like the metal hardware in the picture, if the base is actually that wide flange bit.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33018853818.html

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