|
I might be interested in the wash & cure, PM me
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 18:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 00:27 |
|
|
Toebone posted:I might be interested in the wash & cure, PM me Trying to sell them as a package but if I don't get any hits I'll get with you.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 18:23
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:MMU and MMU-like systems are a loving joke and until we have machines that swap hotends the way traditional CNC machines swap tools in a spindle, we'll never get good multi-material prints that work reliably. Can't you just... Buy this right now
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 19:29
|
|
|
Yep. The E3D toolchanger printer is available right now for about 3 grand. Prusa's XL model, which is expected to also be a coreXY with a toolchanger, is under development and I bet they officially announce it later this year. There are other companies making them too but I trust E3D and Prusa more than the rest.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 20:08
|
|
|
I wonder if I shouldn't just buy a drat toolchanger, but I know people have been unhappy with them
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 20:15
|
|
|
poll plane variant posted:I wonder if I shouldn't just buy a drat toolchanger, but I know people have been unhappy with them Toolchanging is a genuinely hard thing to do. Getting registration that doesn't change, is repeatable, and can be done by a robot. And nobody wants to pay for what makes that "workable". Including me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 20:25
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:Toolchanging is a genuinely hard thing to do. Getting registration that doesn't change, is repeatable, and can be done by a robot. And nobody wants to pay for what makes that "workable". Including me. I've heard the system itself works well but the like reference motion system they sell it with is kind of blah when it needed to be wow
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2021 20:43
|
|
|
I'm not quite sure but I think there's something wrong with the feed advancement stepper motor on this 3d printer. I switched from Prusament PLA to Protopasta PLA and after 1 successful-ish print and 6 failures and a swapped PTFE + hotend, I'm still not getting any extrusion or feed advance. I did verify that the tubing is the right size and trimmed to the correct length and that the nozzle was properly re-tightened, so I'm a bit worried that in bashing this printer that I may have done something reckless to whatever controls that motor and I'll need to replace it. Does anybody have a guide on diagnosing and replacing the feed? For reference, I am using a Flashforge Creator Pro without the part cooling fan.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 04:32
|
|
|
Does the extruder motor turn at all if it's commanded to extrude with no filament loaded? If the extruder is disengaged, can you hand feed filament through an appropriately heated hot end?
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 04:46
|
|
|
poll plane variant posted:Does the extruder motor turn at all if it's commanded to extrude with no filament loaded? If the extruder is disengaged, can you hand feed filament through an appropriately heated hot end? No filament gets through to the hot end on manual feed, but it may be because this filament actually just blows major rear end and the inside bore for the PTFE I'm using is extremely tight (I did snip off a piece and test with the section I'm using to make sure I wasn't going crazy with this, it was fine without any friction). I may need to disassemble the thing again to see if there's more PLA blocking the route to get into the feed area. It's tough to see in there even with directional lighting, but I've been at it with this filament for several hours on and off last night and today and I need a break. Might be overthinking it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 04:54
|
|
|
You're using brand name PLA, I wouldn't suspect filament issues. There's got to be something stuck in there if it's getting up to temp and you can't hand feed it. You've taken the extruder out of the loop entirely at that point.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 05:14
|
|
|
Why are only my rafts such garbage? Brims? Fine. Skirts? Fine. The occasional raft under a support? Fine. Sending a print no raft? Fine.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 15:14
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:Why are only my rafts such garbage? Weird. I would say the hot end is way too high, but if everything else works there's probably something else going on. What slicer are you using?
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 15:17
|
|
|
Slicer settings for sure.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 15:18
|
|
|
Prusa here's the raft/supports page:  (i haven't touched it, but i know 0.16 or 0.12 would divide into the steps better.)
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 15:44
|
|
|
Man, running out of filament between shipments sucks. Sitting here wanting to run stuff on my printers but having to wait on shipping is aggravating.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 16:00
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Man, running out of filament between shipments sucks. Sitting here wanting to run stuff on my printers but having to wait on shipping is aggravating. This is me with resin. I've started buying in larger quantities and have some "for emergencies" and also buy when it gets like 1/3 gone, but I still fret over it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 16:18
|
|
|
Last year I was having trouble finding filament so when it came in stock I bought like 4 or 5 rolls of it at a time. I should be in good shape for a bit, but yeah, running out sucks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 16:31
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Man, running out of filament between shipments sucks. Sitting here wanting to run stuff on my printers but having to wait on shipping is aggravating. Any local stores around you that sell any? Apparently JoAnn Fabrics sells Polaroid filament that isn't too bad and is usually really cheap https://www.joann.com/craft-machines-technology/3d-printing-technology/
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 17:47
|
|
|
Plus they generally have a 20-30% off coupon pretty often. Hooray!
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 18:58
|
|
|
Found the jam. Giant booger of PLA that melted in the area just after the feed roller. Motors work fine. Reassembling and should be good to go, or something!
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 19:15
|
|
|
I'm looking for a Canadian source for bulk resin. I recently got into commercial printing and go through about 1L a day. I've asked the main resin companies but either they don't have bulk options or my usage doesn't meet some threshold.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 19:17
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:Found the jam. Giant booger of PLA that melted in the area just after the feed roller. Motors work fine. Reassembling and should be good to go, or something! Be careful that you're not getting heat creep, generally plastic should only be melted down by the nozzle end of heat block. If it's higher up either you did a pull too early or it might be getting heat creep due to something being wrong with the cooling, or the heat block not being separated properly from the cool side of the hotend assembly.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 20:16
|
|
|
My Anycubic Wash & Cure Plus just came in. It's packed incredibly well with foam everywhere. In wash mode, it's ridiculously powerful. I was afraid the mini I printed was going to be chipped, but it looks like it escaped OK after 6 minutes of wash. Unless I'm missing something, there's no way to hook the basket onto the container they give you in order to let the model air dry (like the manual suggests). I'll probably have to print something or figure something else out. Also the container holds 8L of IPA. I only had 4L on hand, and I think I'll probably put another 1 or 2L in just so the impeller has to do more work. There's definitely some UV light bleed under the cover when curing (I can see some purple light where the cover meets the unit). Not sure if I can fix that or even have to. I have a Form 2, so I'm using the Formlabs suggestion of curing times (30 minutes) which is way more time than the manual suggests, which is 2 minutes. I'll have to figure out what works best. All in all, for $180 this was definitely a good buy. For $250 it's still probably a good buy simply because it automates what was previously a very annoying portion of my workflow, plus it looks a lot nicer on my workbench than my previous bucket-based solution.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 20:55
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:Be careful that you're not getting heat creep, generally plastic should only be melted down by the nozzle end of heat block. If it's higher up either you did a pull too early or it might be getting heat creep due to something being wrong with the cooling, or the heat block not being separated properly from the cool side of the hotend assembly. If I was, this would be the first time after going through a full kilo of the Prusament, so I think this is due to pulling too early based on the location. I do have another test print going so we'll see how it goes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 21:14
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:If I was, this would be the first time after going through a full kilo of the Prusament, so I think this is due to pulling too early based on the location. I do have another test print going so we'll see how it goes. I don't know much about the machines you're using but with my direct drive machine I change filament by cutting it at the extruder and extruding the remaining few cm through (flush cutter to make it flat on both pieces so it can follow through with the new filament when I hold it on the back of the old filament by hand. With the bowden machines I heat up the hotend, pull the extruder release handle, push the filament a bit to get the molten stuff through the nozzle a bit and then pull. This sometimes leaves a thin string following it out of the bowden but generally no large chunks of molten stuff. I only mention the heat creep thing because after reassembling my monoprice maker select once, I got my heat block too close to its mount bracket (just touching without realizing it) and it kept getting jammed after like 45 minutes due to heat creep causing the plastic to melt up too high. It was a real pain in the rear end and I ended up having to replace some stuff.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 21:30
|
|
|
Also you can get heat creep if you're too aggressive with ironing even if nothing else is wrong
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 21:37
|
|
|
mattfl posted:Any local stores around you that sell any? Apparently JoAnn Fabrics sells Polaroid filament that isn't too bad and is usually really cheap None of the local stores have it in stock. I saw that earlier.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 21:52
|
|
|
Zorro KingOfEngland posted:My Anycubic Wash & Cure Plus just came in.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 22:14
|
|
|
Today I wanted to try a multicolor print. It took me about 2 hours to turn my image of choice into an object with the help of blender. I need to go to bed but I am very proud so I quickly printed a tiny version just for you: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 22:40
|
|
|
RabbitWizard posted:Today I wanted to try a multicolor print. It took me about 2 hours to turn my image of choice into an object with the help of blender. I need to go to bed but I am very proud so I quickly printed a tiny version just for you: It’s beautiful 
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2021 22:51
|
|
|
Lol they have dickbutt on thingiverse I’ve already printed three of them with millions more on the way. But awesome print.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 01:09
|
|
|
Fingers crossed on my phaetus dragon I ordered overseas a week ago. They confirmed my order but haven't shipped it. Hoping I got in before they started dealing with the copyright dispute over it...
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 02:30
|
|
|
Alright, I had to clear another jam and I spotted a tangle in the feed, so I have concluded: gently caress this filament. I have another spool of Prusament that I am going to use instead and that's going to be fine until I get more Prusament in the mail. I might try Hatchbox in the future, but I'll save the Protopasta PLA for if I have some kind of emergency. With regard to heating and heat creep, the previous owner of these FFCPs chided me for printing anything including PLA at temperatures under 230. She had a lot of experience with these specific printers but couldn't clarify in detail why PLA needed to be printed at 230 when I had the best results at 212. Something about "cooler temperatures increase the pressure coming out of the nozzle, which makes bridging and overhangs perform worse". I'm going to be installing a part cooler fan with the dual duct printout as soon as I get some new long M2.5 bolts in, but I'm unclear on this advice of running at 230C for PLA when I had plenty of successful prints with minor issues at 212 for Prusament.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 05:34
|
|
|
I’m taking the dive on a rather pricey litre of Siraya Sculpt Ultra, for directly casting eutectic alloy sheet metal forming dies in. Very little info out there on its performance in high-temp roles so far, and a negative technical review saying it has poor mechanical properties and the cured resin leeches something (probably pigment) out at high temperature in the ultrasonic cleaner tank. I don’t think that’ll be an issue for my pattern molds, and i’ll overlook a whole lot if that 220C temp rating is legit
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 05:45
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:Alright, I had to clear another jam and I spotted a tangle in the feed, so I have concluded: gently caress this filament. I have another spool of Prusament that I am going to use instead and that's going to be fine until I get more Prusament in the mail. I might try Hatchbox in the future, but I'll save the Protopasta PLA for if I have some kind of emergency. It's physically impossible to tangle filament in the factory when winding it so that's on you.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 06:20
|
|
|
One hundred percent agree, but getting the tangles on top of the other things going on with that spool was just icing on the cake. I’m sure if I ever get around to using it again I’ll remember losing a few hours to a rookie mistake sometime in the future. Meanwhile, loading another spool of Prusament and it’s chugging away like nothing happened.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 07:32
|
|
|
space uncle posted:Lol they have dickbutt on thingiverse I’ve already printed three of them with millions more on the way.  At least mine is bigger and has nicer curves. Anyone got a secret tip about stringing? I just can't get rid of some of it. I tried different temperatures and retraction speed/amount, anything else I should try? Or were my changes between tests not aggressive enough? 
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 08:56
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:I’m taking the dive on a rather pricey litre of Siraya Sculpt Ultra, for directly casting eutectic alloy sheet metal forming dies in. Very little info out there on its performance in high-temp roles so far, and a negative technical review saying it has poor mechanical properties and the cured resin leeches something (probably pigment) out at high temperature in the ultrasonic cleaner tank. I don’t think that’ll be an issue for my pattern molds, and i’ll overlook a whole lot if that 220C temp rating is legit Are you planning on using Kirksite or something similar? I'm really intrigued, I hope it goes well.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 13:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 00:27 |
|
|
aldantefax posted:One hundred percent agree, but getting the tangles on top of the other things going on with that spool was just icing on the cake. I’m sure if I ever get around to using it again I’ll remember losing a few hours to a rookie mistake sometime in the future. Are you using the same temps as the Prusament? Different filament needs different temps. I’d say you need to increase the temp on the protopasta because it’s not melting quickly enough and backing up. Is it the HTPLA? You definitely need to crank up the temps on that.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2021 13:38
|
|