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Ambrose Burnside posted:Anybody know of a decent gallery of DIY enclosures? just want some inspiration. i wanna replace/augment the stock hood from my Mars Pro with something that seals tighter and which'll accommodate a fairly large DIY recirculating air filter hanging off/passing through the back panel. We had a heatwave early in the summer and the resin fumes are not viable in that sort of heat, I want sth that won't leak VOCs all day and night. interested in this too. I guess it would be easiest to just find some furniture on CL or whatever and then wrap it in plexi or reflectix or something. could even bolt on an enclosure for the filament too
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Jun 25, 2021 18:46
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I just recently got my Prusa Mini set up and running, which I've been putting off for like forever, and it's pretty slick in its own way I do find that the the mk3s is noticeably a much more mature product and that includes the firmware functionality. Just little things, like the way there's no shortcut to manually jog the Z level (for example to raise the print head to clean it more easily if needed) and the way it defaults to "time elapsed" instead of "print time remaining"  if it's connected to the network and can find an NTP server.It's also weirdly awkward in ways, like reaching the USB port on the side is a pain in the rear end with the filament detector installed, especially with the way the head always parks near the bottom of the Z axis, guaranteeing it is in the way basically always. The machine is light, so awkward USB in and out actions tends to shift the machine because -- this is hard to describe, but there isn't really a convenient spot to "handle" it when doing that. Weirdly I tried using a small USB hub as an extension to make it more convenient, but neither worked  I thought I had a pretty generous enclosure made up from an IKEA BROR shelf, but the mini really eats up space because of the above items, plus the need for filament to be all sidesaddle, plus the power brick laying somewhere. It really adds up. The Mini itself was pretty damned effortless though, and it sure prints good.
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Jun 25, 2021 19:16
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The Eyes Have It posted:I just recently got my Prusa Mini set up and running, which I've been putting off for like forever, and it's pretty slick in its own way You might like this project if you get bored of printing other things, it addresses pretty much everything you mention here other than the firmware stuff. EDIT: I'm going to start printing the printed parts for it myself sometime next week, finally got some more PETG in to do it with. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 19:25
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Ghostnuke posted:interested in this too. I guess it would be easiest to just find some furniture on CL or whatever and then wrap it in plexi or reflectix or something. could even bolt on an enclosure for the filament too realized that CNC mill/router enclosures are a great resource for this, at least for my purposes- I'm prioritizing something that doesn't leak resin fumes, and CNC enclosures tend to be designed for coolant containment/noise abatement, both of which demand a relatively tight-sealing assembly. here's a shapeoko-geared collection of enclosures, not a bad starting point: https://wiki.shapeoko.com/index.php/Soundproofing_Enclosures
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Jun 25, 2021 19:31
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My Ender 3 has recently been throwing thermo runaway errors tied to the bed heater. First I tried a PID autotune which didn't fix the problem, so I inspected the wires and it looks like the connection to the motherboard has been getting hot and started to warp/melt.  So that seems bad... I have no idea what this connector thing is called or how difficult it is to replace it. Any advice?
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Jun 25, 2021 22:32
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InternetJunky posted:Yeah, those settings look pretty good to me in terms of exposure. I wanna say thanks, going to faster lift speeds worked perfectly! I reprinted the same thing that failed the first time with no other changes besides that and lowering the light off delay to fit the faster speed and it turned out perfect. It's possible that going to nFEP would solve the issue also, something I might do as I get more experienced with my printer.
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Jun 25, 2021 22:50
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So I haven't messed with vroom at all on my machines. Worth it? Am I going to ruin my feps? No idea whet to even set them to and what the methodology is (mars pro, 2, Saturn)
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Jun 25, 2021 23:01
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Mikey Purp posted:My Ender 3 has recently been throwing thermo runaway errors tied to the bed heater. First I tried a PID autotune which didn't fix the problem, so I inspected the wires and it looks like the connection to the motherboard has been getting hot and started to warp/melt. Tinned wires strikes again. It's a screw terminal and most are pretty generic. If you can solder, replacing is rather straightforward and usually not delicate, that last part depends on what is around the pins you need to desolder. I would reach out to Creality and see if they will replace the board at their cost. They are still tinning leads which is ridiculous with how long it's been an issue. Edit: oh and cut and strip back the wires to remove the tinned ends on any screw terminal. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 23:09
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Bondematt posted:Edit: oh and cut and strip back the wires to remove the tinned ends on any screw terminal. After doing that, get ferrules and a crimper off Amazon and use ferrules on any wires going into screw terminals.
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Jun 25, 2021 23:14
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w00tmonger posted:So I haven't messed with vroom at all on my machines. Worth it? Am I going to ruin my feps? It shaves an hour off of most print jobs, and you'll notice print failures (especially stuff like missing arms/legs) goes down considerably. There is no downside as long as your machine supports it.
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Jun 25, 2021 23:32
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InternetJunky posted:It shaves an hour off of most print jobs, and you'll notice print failures (especially stuff like missing arms/legs) goes down considerably. There is no downside as long as your machine supports it. are these the only settings to change? I've heard it spoke of highly for the Mono X and I'd happily give it a try.
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Jun 25, 2021 23:38
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Deviant posted:are these the only settings to change? I've heard it spoke of highly for the Mono X and I'd happily give it a try. That's all I changed. I've run it on Mars2 Pros, Mono SE, and Mono X now without issues.
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Jun 25, 2021 23:41
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InternetJunky posted:That's all I changed. I guess I'd need slightly thicker supports to deal with being ripped off the fep vs peeled Deviant fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jun 26, 2021 |
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Jun 26, 2021 00:00
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Bondematt posted:Tinned wires strikes again. So if I'm understanding, the issue is with the wires that Creality used? The board isn't stock, so I'm just trying to figure out if I need to contact Creality or BigTreeTech, or both...
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Jun 26, 2021 00:05
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Deviant posted:I guess I'd need slightly thicker supports to deal with being ripped off the fep vs peeled
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Jun 26, 2021 00:31
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Mikey Purp posted:So if I'm understanding, the issue is with the wires that Creality used? The board isn't stock, so I'm just trying to figure out if I need to contact Creality or BigTreeTech, or both... I doubt you'll get either to say they're responsible but the board would need to be replaced and not the wires so you could try BigTreeTech. The issue is that that kind of screw down terminal is good at contacting either a flat thing or a bundle of conductors from braided wire, but not so much a tinned end (soldered braided wire). That end leaves kind of a bumpy mess and when secured by a top and bottom plate inside the connector it won't have a great amount of contact, so it may get really hot and not work well, as seen. As Bondematt said, the fix is to either snip off the end and strip it back to bare wire and clamp those down in the terminal or instead crimp a ferrule on which gives you flat sides for better contact.
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Jun 26, 2021 01:14
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Deviant posted:are these the only settings to change? I've heard it spoke of highly for the Mono X and I'd happily give it a try. Some people send gcode to the printer to enable 300+ speeds but that just sounds like asking for trouble to me.
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Jun 26, 2021 01:42
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Rexxed posted:I doubt you'll get either to say they're responsible but the board would need to be replaced and not the wires so you could try BigTreeTech. The issue is that that kind of screw down terminal is good at contacting either a flat thing or a bundle of conductors from braided wire, but not so much a tinned end (soldered braided wire). That end leaves kind of a bumpy mess and when secured by a top and bottom plate inside the connector it won't have a great amount of contact, so it may get really hot and not work well, as seen. this isn’t exactly best practice, but i’ve had good luck using the smooth part of a needlenose plier’s jaws to partially crush/flatten the tinned ends of wires; it isn’t a replacement for a ferrule, but you can dramatically improve the reliability of those connections by making sure each wire lead has decent contact surfaces.
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Jun 26, 2021 02:01
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InternetJunky posted:It shaves an hour off of most print jobs, and you'll notice print failures (especially stuff like missing arms/legs) goes down considerably. There is no downside as long as your machine supports it. Was just doing some googling and is there a hardware limitation on this? Sounds like I need to modify gcode to push it over 180? w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jun 26, 2021 |
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Jun 26, 2021 02:29
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240mm/minute is nothing, motion wise from a stepper. If they're not letting it go that high in GUI, that's weird. E: and decent lead screw and all that - you get it.
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Jun 26, 2021 04:30
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That's super interesting, it's counterintuitive but makes sense if you need a smaller max momentary force to pull prints off the FEP quickly than you do slowly. On my end I've dramatically lowered my lift/retract speeds from the ~100mm/min speeds that slicers default to, often down to 50mm/min or lower, and it did a lot to remedy print failures with challenging resins. Default lift speeds actually seem worse than going either slower or faster. Skipping steps seems like a risk as you start going superfast, seems like an easy way to break a FEP/LCD, or if you're lucky just ruin whatever youre printing. I'm curious at what speed that starts becoming a risk.
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Jun 26, 2021 04:55
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Mono x arrived. Very quick setup. I used a single ipad air screen protector over the whole screen assembly and leveled the plate straight onto the fep. I was not expecting exactly how weird smelling this resin would be compared to the formlabs stuff. I bought siraya sculpt and Blu, intending to do a 50/50 mix for D&D minis. I printed the test print in 100% sculpt because I'd read that Blu is a bit hard to work with. My heated chamber stuff will get here today so hopefully I will get to try it soon. One thing that's confusing to me is that sirayas post processing instructions say not to completely submerge the part in IPA for longer than 30 seconds. Any idea why that might be?
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Jun 26, 2021 12:25
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:One thing that's confusing to me is that sirayas post processing instructions say not to completely submerge the part in IPA for longer than 30 seconds. Any idea why that might be? Prolonged contact w alcohol does have deleterious effects on prints; watch what happens if you forget a piece in there for a couple of hours or a day or w/e. I take the 30 seconds thing to be an overcautious best-practice guideline (and is a good approach to take with any UV resin, not just siraya's, imo). my interpretation: the less you soak your prints in strong solvents, the better, and the solvent does most of its solvent-ey stuff in the first minute or so of soaking; either 30 seconds will get it clean and you're good, or else the resin is persistent enough that you should be augmenting the iso dip with a thorough brushing/scrubbing. 30 seconds absolutely isn't enough for sth very tacky and solvent-stubborn like Blu, I always do a second physical scrubdown (using a fine&soft-bristle brush) as part of post-processing, and pay special attention to any holes or crevices- lil traces of resin will always *always* be hiding in there, waiting to creep out and gently caress up the surface finish during the UV cure. Sometimes I also use a second, much smaller detail paintbrush specifically to swab out blind holes and other resin-trap geometries. Hollowed-out parts get alcohol forcefully flushed thru the cavity using a bigass 100ml turkey basting syringe, with two drainage holes drilled into the cavity at its extreme ends to get the longest possible thru-flow. now, you certainly do not have to be nearly as insane as I am, a lot of people spend their whole printing careers chucking everything in the wash/cure station and walking away, and they get perfectly satisfactory results. if i was printing figurines I wouldn't care so much but instead a lot of my prints need a perfect post-cure and a spotless pristine finish or they won't work as molds/tools. ultimately it's a question of how important QC is to you Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Jun 26, 2021 |
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Jun 26, 2021 12:58
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30 seconds? I leave my prints in 70% IPA for around an hour before rising them off.
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Jun 26, 2021 13:35
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revisiting the ultrasonic mixing thing- i've been doing a lot of reading about sonication (amazing what you can accomplish when you're avoiding something else!) and have a much firmer idea of how to design an ultrasonic transducer + tailor it to the particular needs of a project. in this case: a miniscule drop-in ultrasonic mixer that doesn't require any involved printer modifications, with a transducer package that's small + thin enough to live its entire life in the narrow gap between the tank edge and the lowered build plate. my initial idea of throwing an... ultrasonic atomizer disc? into a thin housing won't work, i was misunderstanding the hardware, but I've worked out several viable routes that produce a choice resonance frequency that'll cause cavitation from a very low-profile package/stack (pancake transducer or monolithic block transducer in a casing, superthin langevin design clamped together w gaskets and a ring of nuts/bolts, etc) found an insanely useful resource for this whole process, or for langevin transducers anyways: http://www.ultrasonic-resonators.org/design/transducers/transducer_design.html honestly though even a tiny langevin would be super overkill for this application, i'm leaning towards keeping it super simple like they did w the very first ultrasonic mixers decades ago: a single long, thin PZT block (the prism's length can be trimmed as a means to 'tune' the resonance frequency) epoxied to a bit of stainless steel plate, and encapsulate / enclose w more steel sheet or epoxy to produce a svelte immersible enclosure for the transducer lolling at my very naive "im definitely not getting involved in this stuff" from last post
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Jun 26, 2021 13:42
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Mikey Purp posted:So if I'm understanding, the issue is with the wires that Creality used? The board isn't stock, so I'm just trying to figure out if I need to contact Creality or BigTreeTech, or both... Pretty much every Chinese printer has tinned wires, which is stupid and a safety hazard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZOh1NzqzzU Teaching Tech recently did a video on crimp connectors and has links included for pretty much every connector you'll ever need. They'll also come handy if (when really) you get the bug and decide to build an enclosure and mount the electronics/power outside of it. I have to go a bit overkill and rewire/crimp all my machines properly with silicone wire (generally 12/18/22AWG depending on the part - I've got PTSD related OCD due to an electrical house fire), but it pays to check all the connections and remove tinned wires and make sure it is all is crimped properly, just from the fire safety aspect of things.
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Jun 26, 2021 14:47
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InternetJunky posted:30 seconds? I leave my prints in 70% IPA for around an hour before rising them off. Yeah, the only reason it's so jarring to me is the formlabs recommendations are up to 20 minutes for some of their resins and I'm pretty sure they say there's no harm in washing for longer. I'll chalk it up to differences between resins though, I understand not all resins are engineered to the degree the formlabs ones are. 5 minutes, final offer.
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Jun 26, 2021 15:09
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Yeah, the only reason it's so jarring to me is the formlabs recommendations are up to 20 minutes for some of their resins and I'm pretty sure they say there's no harm in washing for longer. I'll chalk it up to differences between resins though, I understand not all resins are engineered to the degree the formlabs ones are. I’ve left stuff in IPA overnight and never seen any problems.
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Jun 26, 2021 16:11
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i thought leaving stuff in ipa would make it brittle?
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Jun 26, 2021 16:15
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At least with the formlabs resins, prints will absorb alcohol if left in too long, which can harm the surface quality, and/or or the properties (especially in the case of some of the engineering resins.) They had a document I read that went thorough all their resins and their effects but I don't remember much of it other than "just follow the directions, dummy (but it's probably not the end of the world if you make a mistake.)"
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Jun 26, 2021 17:02
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It definitely can gently caress up the mechanical properties of some resins if you leave it in for too long, yeah; you can also get swelling and distortion, or the part can just kind of crumble when handled in bad cases (i haven’t personally seen the latter but i have run into the others). it clearly doesn’t happen on the same timeframe for all resins, or even necessarily to all resins. still, “try to limit solvent soak times during post-processing” has never steered me wrong as a general guideline.
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Jun 26, 2021 17:11
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I've forgotten some models printed in regular printing resin overnight in IPA and the surface was definitely altered by this to the point the models went into my pile of shame. The ABS-like resin prints that I left for 12+ hours were fine although the surface was very soft initially. After curing they were indistinguishable from regular prints.
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Jun 26, 2021 17:31
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That makes sense. Phrozen Gray 4k seems to be fine with it.
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Jun 26, 2021 18:17
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Ambrose Burnside posted:revisiting the ultrasonic mixing thing- not really what the thread is for, but i might as well stick my ultrasound updates/reckons in here for now ordered myself a ~70x6x4mm lead zirconium titanate rectangular prism from a specialist supplier. real PITA to find sth workable, given the tank edge clearance constraints. the issue here is that, to operate in a certain resonant frequency, you more or less *need* the crystal to have the correct/minimum dimension in its 'polarized' axis. almost all 'cleaning/sonication'-frequency elements are disks/rings operating in 'radius' polarization mode, so their polarized dimension must be at least ~50mm+ wide to end up south of 100khz, and an element that big wont fit anywhere in the tank. but a long, thin bar? it operates in 'length mode' due to its proportions; the exact length of the bar determines the frequency, and the volume of piezo material "under" a given length i.e. the bar's thickness determines the power consumption/emission amplitude. bars are an inefficient/low-power form factor for power transducering, and are very inconvenient-to-horrendous to pre-load with tensioned bolts as in a typical Langevin assembly. however, i do not need or want a Langevin assembly here, i don't need transmission amplification or efficiency or low waste heating, so a plain transducer element either epoxied or spring-tensioned against a steel plate in the tank should serve well enough. I'm not sure how I'll fabricate the immersion enclosure, ideally I'd mill a slot in and partially hollow out a stainless steel bar to end up with a seamless, heavy-walled 'enclosure' that just needs sealing on a single face w some epoxy or sth, but I can't mill that myself right now so we'll see. easiest approach is prolly just potting the transducer on all sides w epoxy, just leaving the 'front plate' exposed to transmit the vibrations effectively. either that or fabricating an enclosure from stainless steel plates brazed into a watertight box, but i really don't want to hot-join stainless if I can't TIG it by my calculations this transducer shape will let me experiment with ultrasound frequencies as low as ~25khz, assuming the full bar length; this has an extremely aggressive scouring/mixing action that will also "permanently homogenize" things like animal tissue, so odds are i will cut the bar down shorter to increase its frequency to maybe 50khz or closer towards 100khz, where the cavitations are much less energetic and the vibrations are less physically-destructive. at first I'm gonna drive the transducer w a simple arduino-type microcontroller boosted by a power amp, it's not a great long-term solution afaik but it's frequency-agnostic so i can alter the driving signal frequency freely via software and try out whatever frequencies my heart desires Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jun 26, 2021 |
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Jun 26, 2021 19:36
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I honestly can't tell if that is a Gordon Freeman shitpost or a legit post for the thread, or some strange combination. Either way, I have no idea what any of it means but I am impressed.
Stupid_Sexy_Flander fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Jun 27, 2021 |
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Jun 26, 2021 21:05
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Ambrose Burnside posted:[Ultrasonic stuff] This is really intriguing! If you're posting about this project in the electronics thread or elsewhere, you should link it here. I think this thread has enough overlap with electronics tinkerers to be interesting. Do you have a rough sketch/idea of what your enclosure would look like? I'm a machinist and there's a chance I could whip something up at work in my spare time. Likely wouldn't have to charge you anything either - I'm just interested in what you learn about the ultrasonic devices and that would be enough for me. I've been wanting to design an ultrasonic motor/vibrator/polisher (for deburring tiny parts) since commercial products are expensive. If this is too far off topic, feel free to DM me.
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Jun 26, 2021 21:35
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Ambrose Burnside posted:not really what the thread is for, but i might as well stick my ultrasound updates/reckons in here for now Reverse the polarity of the neutron flow! 
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Jun 26, 2021 21:47
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Ambrose Burnside posted:not really what the thread is for, but i might as well stick my ultrasound updates/reckons in here for now "...are you wearing corduroy? Because that affects the radio, you know." 
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Jun 26, 2021 22:35
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60 Hertz Jig posted:This is really intriguing! If you're posting about this project in the electronics thread or elsewhere, you should link it here. I think this thread has enough overlap with electronics tinkerers to be interesting. here's a v quick modelling of the sort of thing im thinking of; not 100% sure on the dimensions yet but the proportions re: the transducer are correct. in particular i need to double-check the Habitable Zone gap dimensions between the tank walls and build plate, if the assembled module won't let the build plate come down it's all for naught  basically just taking a stainless flat bar and milling a deep pocket along its thin-face length that can seat the transducer bar, if the stainless bar is tall enough that the open face is safely "above the waterline" it doesn't even really need a proper encasement/cap, just a dust cover w a wire gland passthru or sth like that. also had the idea of using a linear spring to reversibly tension the emitter against the side of the 'enclosure', so the whole thing can be disassembled and parts swapped out/replaced without issue. there's a bunch of ways to skin this, i just wanted an excuse to use a linear spring in a design. also linear springs look cooler than a row of belleville washers or a backer pad of urethane spring rubber, even though those would prolly also work fine for clamping the transducer in place. but let's face it, i'm probably not buying a linear spring just for this. what's more likely is i'll fill the enclosure cavity up with epoxy and use it to simultaneously affix the transducer against the case side + provide a waterproof 'cap' for the unit. main downside there is how that's a permanent assembly that can't be serviced or even stripped for parts if something goes wrong with the unit, and the piezo elements are apparently prone to cracking if not sufficiently clamped/immobilized, so I really ought to try to make a serviceable design happen another possibility: i might use some silicone gasket sealant or a similar soft elastomer-ey castable material in the cavity before capping it off w hard epoxy; the transducer should be well-damped and isolated from the rest of the printer, so 'floating' the entire transducer assembly is strongly recommended. the convention for Langevin transducers typically uses concentric sets of o-rings to center the module inside a slightly oversized length of tubing without the parts actually touching, filling the air gaps in the cavity w silicone would in theory do something similar. or maybe i could use a couple of o-rings rolled over the emitter bar to 'float' it off the cavity walls? idk idk Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jun 26, 2021 |
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Jun 26, 2021 23:40
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Print a gun out of PLA? Sun comes out and gun melts away. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6Xd3j2DPdU
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Jun 27, 2021 13:18
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