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General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005

Unperson_47 posted:

What PiZero case did you print?

Higher bed temps combined with a high nozzle temp may not allow the PLA on bottom layers to set so they buckle or sag under the weight of the top layers or the force of the nozzle/filament being extruded. I would've thought you'd have problems with upper layers like the layers not adhering to each other or pits if that were the case, though as the top layers would get further and further from the nozzle as it collapses.

What's your temps and do you have any stringing?

A heavily modified version of this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2087537

It's just a temporary case until I finish the one I'm designing.My one just puts the hub above the pi board and has an area for a PCM5102 DAC module.

I checked the settings. 200*C nozzle and 60*C bed. i don't really use Cura in Windows normally so everything was pretty default.
The top layer actually looked as though the nozzle was dragging. Not a drat clue what that was about.

The case is together for now with the guts in it. Makes a nice change from a messy bundle of hardware held together with elastic bands.

e: I guess the Hatchbox pink is good?
I found CCTree white PLA behaved really well for me. Kind of sad I've almost used it up.

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Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



General_Failure posted:

A heavily modified version of this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2087537

It's just a temporary case until I finish the one I'm designing.My one just puts the hub above the pi board and has an area for a PCM5102 DAC module.

I checked the settings. 200*C nozzle and 60*C bed. i don't really use Cura in Windows normally so everything was pretty default.
The top layer actually looked as though the nozzle was dragging. Not a drat clue what that was about.

The case is together for now with the guts in it. Makes a nice change from a messy bundle of hardware held together with elastic bands.

e: I guess the Hatchbox pink is good?
I found CCTree white PLA behaved really well for me. Kind of sad I've almost used it up.

edit: I just skimmed through some of your posts in the thread and it looks like you've built your own 3D printer. That probably means everything I'm about to say is super basic and you've already checked. Sorry about that.

Maybe the earlier poster suggesting your probalby is overextrusion is right. Or your Z-offset might be too close to the bed so it's pressing into each layer? Is the elephant foot and scrape marks present mainly one one side or corner? If so, bed may not be level.

I've been using a lot of transparent PLA for use with LED projects. My printer is not great so I just buy the cheap filament on eBay, though and it's hard to find it in transparent now.

I'd like to know what y'all's experience with automatically-generated supports is like.

Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 09:53 on May 26, 2020

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005

Unperson_47 posted:

edit: I just skimmed through some of your posts in the thread and it looks like you've built your own 3D printer. That probably means everything I'm about to say is super basic and you've already checked. Sorry about that.

Maybe the earlier poster suggesting your probalby is overextrusion is right. Or your Z-offset might be too close to the bed so it's pressing into each layer? Is the elephant foot and scrape marks present mainly one one side or corner? If so, bed may not be level.

I've been using a lot of transparent PLA for use with LED projects. My printer is not great so I just buy the cheap filament on eBay, though and it's hard to find it in transparent now.

I'd like to know what y'all's experience with automatically-generated supports is like.

Nah. I just have an Ender 3 Pro. There are people on here that have built their own but I'm not one of them. I'm just a compulsive tinkerer. 3D printing has made it really easy to develop solutions to things I struggled with, like decent cases for things, brackets, mounts, etc. etc. My collection of naked or poorly housed electronics are slowly being tidied up. The kitchen is slowly being optimised (it's small and things I want for holding stuff doesn't exist outside my kitchen), and that sort of thing.

I would really like to build a delta printer at some point, just because I think they are neat.

Here4DaGangBang
Dec 3, 2004

I beat my dick like it owes me money!

snail posted:

Checking in with a colleague who is just about to finish a Voron 2.4, 350x350 sized, and he hasn't cheaped on quality, without going overboard, he's at $2560 AUD to date, and expects it to maybe hit $2,800 by the time he's fully done. $210 AUD is what the filament cost him.

You could probably swap some parts out if you're not chasing stupid print speeds, but he is very keen to have the high speed that has been seen in recent builds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6uNQ83_gok being one of them that was doing the rounds.

Fark me. That’s nuts.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Anybody wanna drop Prusa money on a delta printer from Monoprice that's on sale for 41% off today?

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=30993

I mean, on paper that looks like a good machine, but Tom Sanladerer wasn't too impressed with it (he didn't have much negative to say either--depending on how much of a poo poo you give about open source firmware, but if you buy Monoprice printers to begin with you probably don't).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CxeVYJ-Zqw

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
"Limit 20 per customer" :notfunny:


Bloody fascists! :argh:

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010

Fun Shoe
jessie transition spools came today (they've raised the price to $15 now lol), I opened one so I could see the inside of the spool, yellow outside to gold/orange inside. the other three are blue, pink, and orange to ??? (can't see without unwrapping due to how they package

GamerMage
Sep 25, 2004
I just snapped a couple up myself just now. They reduced the max order to 2 spools so you have to order another color for free shipping.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Some of the transition spools will be approaching no-transition at all depending on the color switch and where in the transition yours was spooled. Most of mine have been juuust about the same color the whole way through.




i really shouldn't have told so many people about the transition spools

Beaucoup Haram
Jun 18, 2005

In the spirit of sharing our dumb mistakes, I've had no end of trouble with my Ender 3's BLTouch running on an SKR e3 Mini.

Turns out, replacing a 2m cable with 7 of these joins (DuPont jumpers heatshrinked together) with an actual proper BLTouch single piece cable solves all the problems.

Chernabog
Apr 16, 2007



Printed this no-assembly spring box just for shits and giggles and it actually works. Not that great but way better than I expected.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Hypnolobster posted:

i really shouldn't have told so many people about the transition spools

it's bizarre to me that so many people want random mucky colored filament to save like 4 dollars on a spool but there's no accounting for taste i guess

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Sagebrush posted:

it's bizarre to me that so many people want random mucky colored filament to save like 4 dollars on a spool but there's no accounting for taste i guess

Surely you've run into engineering types who have no sense of aesthetics. That's me. If it functions I'm happy. If someone else has to look at it maybe I'll try a little harder.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Sagebrush posted:

it's bizarre to me that so many people want random mucky colored filament to save like 4 dollars on a spool but there's no accounting for taste i guess

Eh, I'll take a $13 roll of filament made in the USA by a small company any day. They've been cool colors, and 90% of my prints are functional and it really doesn't matter even if they were actually objectively unattractive colors. Especially since I tend to print first and ask questions later during prototyping.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010

Fun Shoe

Hypnolobster posted:

Eh, I'll take a $13 roll of filament made in the USA by a small company any day. They've been cool colors, and 90% of my prints are functional and it really doesn't matter even if they were actually objectively unattractive colors. Especially since I tend to print first and ask questions later during prototyping.

They're not exactly hideous either

Kalman
Jan 17, 2010

Sagebrush posted:

it's bizarre to me that so many people want random mucky colored filament to save like 4 dollars on a spool but there's no accounting for taste i guess

I mean, there’s things I care about the color for and things I don’t. And there’s also a little of the whole mystery box fun of “what did I get”, as well as maybe you get a color you wouldn’t have ordered but that you turn out to like. And yeah, saving a couple bucks is nice as is supporting a US company.

(FWIW so far my transition rolls are a dark gray and a dark green.)

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
My order of (Non transition :argh:) Jessie filament arrived today and holy cow this stuff is great to print with.

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

SpartanIvy posted:

My order of (Non transition :argh:) Jessie filament arrived today and holy cow this stuff is great to print with.

Same and yeah I agree it's p nice.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010

Fun Shoe
Progress (and Hatchbox pink)

https://i.imgur.com/1UVzbiC.mp4

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005

shovelbum posted:

They're not exactly hideous either



Oh I like that yellow!

Is there a thread for using modelling / CAD programs? I've derped about as far as I can. I need to do some vent holes on the Pi Zero case but don't know a neat way of doing it. It's just a boring brick but I don't want it to be ugly.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
I need some TH3D help.

I have an Ender 3 with the Creality Silent board and decided to put TH3D on it. In the configuration file I un-commented the Ender3 line and the TMC_CREALITY_BOARD line for the Creality Silent board.

Everything flashed successfully and seems to be working for the most part.

However, when I select the AUTOHOME function it goes to home but then all the motors continue to try and operate once it's at home. I've run an M119 through pronterface and all my stops are working as they should be. If I autohome in pronterface I get the same issue where it finds home, but continues trying to operate the motors.

The weirdest part is that when it's autohoming. It navigates to the stop switches as it should, backs off a little like usual, and then slowly tries to descend without stopping again.

Googling returns nothing except people telling others to check wiring and use the M119 command. All of which I've done. This was working fine with the default firmware. All I did tonight was flash TH3D on it.

Beaucoup Haram
Jun 18, 2005

SpartanIvy posted:

I need some TH3D help.

I have an Ender 3 with the Creality Silent board and decided to put TH3D on it. In the configuration file I un-commented the Ender3 line and the TMC_CREALITY_BOARD line for the Creality Silent board.

Everything flashed successfully and seems to be working for the most part.

However, when I select the AUTOHOME function it goes to home but then all the motors continue to try and operate once it's at home. I've run an M119 through pronterface and all my stops are working as they should be. If I autohome in pronterface I get the same issue where it finds home, but continues trying to operate the motors.

The weirdest part is that when it's autohoming. It navigates to the stop switches as it should, backs off a little like usual, and then slowly tries to descend without stopping again.

Googling returns nothing except people telling others to check wiring and use the M119 command. All of which I've done. This was working fine with the default firmware. All I did tonight was flash TH3D on it.

I've never had this problem but have you considered putting stock Marlin on it ?

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



General_Failure posted:

Oh I like that yellow!

Is there a thread for using modelling / CAD programs? I've derped about as far as I can. I need to do some vent holes on the Pi Zero case but don't know a neat way of doing it. It's just a boring brick but I don't want it to be ugly.

I would be interested in this as well. I've used the old free desktop version of Google Sketchup for over a year because it works and is super easy and fast to get something going but I should probably move on.

I also use OpenSCAD but for different things than I do with Sketchup.

Kind of intimidated by actual CAD software and don't really know where to start. I like how in Sketchup I can click to start a line and then type in a measurement and it'll give me a line that long; is this a standard feature in other CAD software? Would FreeCAD be a decent place to start?

Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 06:22 on May 27, 2020

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005

Unperson_47 posted:


Kind of intimidated by actual CAD software and don't really know where to start. I like how in Sketchup I can click to start a line and then type in a measurement and it'll give me a line that long; is this a standard feature in other CAD software? Would FreeCAD be a decent place to start?

I started recently-ish with TinkerCAD. Didn't take me long to bump into its limitations though. The people here put me on to using Fusion 360 with a free personal use license. TinkerCAD allows models made in it to be sent to Fusion 360, which is a feature I've been abusing. Ie throw together something in TinkerCAD and use features of Fusion360 to do things that I either can't do, or are a massive kludge in TinkerCAD.
This is mostly because I'm still fairly low on the learning curve for Fusion 360. I can say It's a weird CAD / modelling / kitchen sink kind of deal. I feel that FreeCAD has been trying to model itself after it in recent years, in a spread too thin, open source kind of way.

e: I only just discovered that the four legged strandbeest thingy above is a video not a photo. It's so much smoother at the extents of the movement than I thought it would be! That's awesome.

General_Failure fucked around with this message at 07:35 on May 27, 2020

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



General_Failure posted:

I started recently-ish with TinkerCAD. Didn't take me long to bump into its limitations though. The people here put me on to using Fusion 360 with a free personal use license. TinkerCAD allows models made in it to be sent to Fusion 360, which is a feature I've been abusing. Ie throw together something in TinkerCAD and use features of Fusion360 to do things that I either can't do, or are a massive kludge in TinkerCAD.
This is mostly because I'm still fairly low on the learning curve for Fusion 360. I can say It's a weird CAD / modelling / kitchen sink kind of deal. I feel that FreeCAD has been trying to model itself after it in recent years, in a spread too thin, open source kind of way.

edit: I wanted to clarify that when I say "Sketchup" I'm talking about the free version of Sketchup Make 2017.

I kind of do a similar thing by making something in OpenSCAD and then importing it into Sketchup. I even sometimes draw something up in Inkscape, export it as an SVG, then import the SVG into OpenSCAD and extrude to the desired thickness before then taking it into Sketchup. Probably a super roundabout-rear end way of doing stuff but it's what I've done.

I also use OpenSCAD because I find it fun to programmatically make stuff.


Trying to do anything with even just a simple sphere in Sketchup is a pain in the rear end, even with plugins. For example, Sketchup was never meant to be used at small scales so if you want a sphere that is 10mm in diameter, you have to work at 10x the desired size and then scale down later or else faces aren't generated and the curves are not very smooth. This problem probably doesn't exist in the web version of Sketchup but I want a standalone program; I can't really stand online apps.

I know I'm just using the wrong tool but I have gotten so comfortable with Sketchup that I just never learned anything else.


At its worst and most convoluted, my workflow has been Inkscape -> OpenSCAD -> Sketchup -> Meshmixer (for auto supports) -> Slic3r -> The proprietary software I have to use to send GCode to my printer because it's a bad printer. If I wanted to put Repetier on it, I'd have to put a RAMPS board in it which I don't know is worth it. (these two things may even be obsolete since the last time I looked into it) I'd also lose the capability of sending jobs to the printer via WiFi if I did that.

Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 08:32 on May 27, 2020

Subjunctive
Sep 12, 2006

✨sparkle and shine✨

What do you do with scrap PLA or PETG post-printing? I can’t tell if it’s recyclable here, but I’ll keep looking.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
Unperson_47 what the christ

Your Inkscape -> OpenSCAD workflow is literally built as-is into Fusion360

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

Subjunctive posted:

What do you do with scrap PLA or PETG post-printing? I can’t tell if it’s recyclable here, but I’ll keep looking.

Keep some around as spare pieces to test paint or other post-processing techniques on, but otherwise just toss it. PLA is only biodegradable in a commercial compost setting of pressure + heat + time, and recycling old material into new filament (while an interesting thought experiment) is not very practical in the end.

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



insta posted:

Unperson_47 what the christ

Your Inkscape -> OpenSCAD workflow is literally built as-is into Fusion360

Oh, didn't know that; I have literally never messed with Fusion360 before but I installed it last night as suggested in this thread. Still playing around with it.

I also got Cura working to generate GCode for use with my printer. I have to use custom Start and End GCode and ages ago I had only copy/pasted half the block and just never looked at again because I'd always get errors when I tried to send it to the printer. That means I can leave Slic3r and Meshmixer out of the loop as well and just use Cura. And I can use Python/C++ in Fusion360 so maybe I'm done with OpenSCAD as well.

Now it can just be Fusion360 -> Cura -> Proprietary printer software


I'm dumb as hell and stubbornly stuck to that previous workflow but in my defense, this printer belonged to someone else and I probably only used it every 2 or 3 weeks and sometimes months between prints. They had the printer for nearly 2 years and I didn't even use 1/2 of a spool of filament in all that time. Within the last few months, they just gave it to me since they never once used it and don't even know how to use it.

I'm using it nearly every day now.

Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 15:54 on May 27, 2020

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Reflashed with TH3D this morning and autohome now works correctly. All I did different was use pronterface to reset the eeprom instead of the LCD menu. Not sure why that would matter but oh well.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Subjunctive posted:

What do you do with scrap PLA or PETG post-printing? I can’t tell if it’s recyclable here, but I’ll keep looking.

Most recyclable places will reject 3d printed scrap because of the untraceable impurities from random manufacturers. What they want is known-source bottles and cans (or easily identifiable large mass materials) that can be easily washed, sterilized and melted down/otherwise processed for recycling.

I think there was even a post somewhere ITT about someone that fielded getting yelled at by staff at their local recycling place for trying to mix printed stuff in with regular recyclable stuff when they dropped it off.

I usually keep pieces around for test painting if I change paints, or just melt them into a blob of same material scrap and tossing them into regular trash after said blob cools. PLA is biodegradable just like most garbage and PETG will also degrade (as anybody that has made outdoor prints with regular sun exposure can attest if they've had something out there for the last five years or so--some of my prints from circa 2015 are finally cracking).

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



biracial bear for uncut posted:

Most recyclable places will reject 3d printed scrap because of the untraceable impurities from random manufacturers. What they want is known-source bottles and cans (or easily identifiable large mass materials) that can be easily washed, sterilized and melted down/otherwise processed for recycling.

I think there was even a post somewhere ITT about someone that fielded getting yelled at by staff at their local recycling place for trying to mix printed stuff in with regular recyclable stuff when they dropped it off.

I usually keep pieces around for test painting if I change paints, or just melt them into a blob of same material scrap and tossing them into regular trash after said blob cools. PLA is biodegradable just like most garbage and PETG will also degrade (as anybody that has made outdoor prints with regular sun exposure can attest if they've had something out there for the last five years or so--some of my prints from circa 2015 are finally cracking).

What kind of paints do you personally use on PLA?

Forseti
May 26, 2001
To the lovenasium!

Unperson_47 posted:

I also got Cura working to generate GCode for use with my printer. I have to use custom Start and End GCode and ages ago I had only copy/pasted half the block and just never looked at again because I'd always get errors when I tried to send it to the printer. That means I can leave Slic3r and Meshmixer out of the loop as well and just use Cura. And I can use Python/C++ in Fusion360 so maybe I'm done with OpenSCAD as well.

SolidPython is a thing. Lets you write your script in Python and then compile it to OpenSCAD.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Unperson_47 posted:

What kind of paints do you personally use on PLA?

Most of my PLA prints are typically stuff that'll end up being a uniform color later so I usually just use whatever "Krylon for Plastics" paint I can find in the color I want for the given object. Otherwise it's just the same spraypaint in a clearcoat to make the print shiny if the filament is already the color I want.

If you want to be more delicate/detailed with it I imagine a spray-on primer for plastics followed by an airbrush paint kit would do well as well.

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

For a print that's going to be outside PLA isn't the best choice, but...what about if you spray paint it real well? Does that have a substantial positive effect on outdoor longevity?

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
What the hell can cause this kind of bed leveling fuckery?


I've tried leveling it 3 times and I can't get rid of it. I think it might be the Y-Axis wheels being bad somehow. There's no real wobble in the bed. I had a clogged nozzle earlier and put in a new nozzle and then this started happening.

e: Actually after staring at it from above in the picture, I wonder if my Bullseye duct is touching the clip just barely and throwing things off. It doesn't look like it in person though.

E2: the clip seems to have been it.

SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 19:48 on May 27, 2020

TKIY
Nov 6, 2012
Grimey Drawer

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Anybody wanna drop Prusa money on a delta printer from Monoprice that's on sale for 41% off today?

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=30993

I mean, on paper that looks like a good machine, but Tom Sanladerer wasn't too impressed with it (he didn't have much negative to say either--depending on how much of a poo poo you give about open source firmware, but if you buy Monoprice printers to begin with you probably don't).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CxeVYJ-Zqw

I've been waiting on the Prusa XL but at this point I'm considering other options for a larger machine than my MK3Ss.

Delta's are rated on diameter for build volume though right? 270mm diameter isn't really any bigger then...

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

TKIY posted:

I've been waiting on the Prusa XL but at this point I'm considering other options for a larger machine than my MK3Ss.

Delta's are rated on diameter for build volume though right? 270mm diameter isn't really any bigger then...

Yeah but they're hypnotic to watch. Also 300mm on Z would be more useful to me than the X/Y dimension for most of what I print.

Tenchrono
Jun 2, 2011


Anyone installed a BLtouch on an ender 3 pro and gotten some weird behaviors? I used the Creality kit and followed Teaching Tech’s instructions, but for some reason when the nozzle is going over the top right part of the bed it lifts up a good 10cm and then goes back down. Almost like there is an invisible hill.

Edit: Nevermind, I am an idiot :v:.

Tenchrono fucked around with this message at 22:49 on May 27, 2020

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Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


SpartanIvy posted:

What the hell can cause this kind of bed leveling fuckery?


I've tried leveling it 3 times and I can't get rid of it. I think it might be the Y-Axis wheels being bad somehow. There's no real wobble in the bed. I had a clogged nozzle earlier and put in a new nozzle and then this started happening.

e: Actually after staring at it from above in the picture, I wonder if my Bullseye duct is touching the clip just barely and throwing things off. It doesn't look like it in person though.

E2: the clip seems to have been it.

i swapped out my binder clips for silicone pads and i got much easier leveling too, i think the squeezing was causing something to bow

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