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Is this still the Spyker setup?
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Apr 18, 2021 00:11
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So after a day of calibrating my ender 3 for abs I've landed on using a 3 later raft. It's completely eliminated my elephants foot issue. I understand I can probably dial it in more but barring a really specific fix, I dont know if I'll be able to solve it without something like a pei plate and a bl touch
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Apr 18, 2021 00:17
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Is this still the Spyker setup? Yep. He’s subsequently made brushless mods and chain drive and some other crap but mine is just the classic 36v SLAB / wheelchair motors which will still carry like 300lbs. I kind of want to pause work abs just slap the drive motors and rc gear onto a lawn mower for the summer.
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Apr 18, 2021 00:55
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EPAX E10 has arrived! Was only able to unbox it because I had to build a workbench in my garage for it.    Will throw some prints at it tomorrow. New wash and cure is expected in a few weeks too.
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Apr 18, 2021 01:51
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I feel like with lumber prices right now the workbench is the most expensive thing in that picture. Looks sweet, though!
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Apr 18, 2021 02:21
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mattfl posted:EPAX E10 has arrived! Very nice! I do want to eventually get something like the E10, or a Saturn or Mono X, etc., but I figure I might wait until later in the year when (hopefully) prices etc. calm down a bit, or there's a better shot at finding a used one on eBay.
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Apr 18, 2021 02:28
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Fun pseudo-OSHA fact about the current lumber prices: fancy furniture-grade plywood, made from high-quality baltic birch, has been getting more expensive every year. This is because the wood comes from far up in the frozen north of Russia and Finland where there aren't paved roads, so the lumber trucks need the ground to be frozen to access the forests. Global climate change has caused the winters to get shorter and warmer, the roads are melting into mud earlier in the year, and the trucks are getting bogged down and cut off.  Also, cheaper softwood plywood has been getting more expensive. In the USA this wood is made mostly from trees harvested on the west coast. The hotter, drier summers we've been getting have made the last few California/Oregon wildfire seasons the worst wildfire seasons in state history, and vast swathes of the forests have just been all burnt up. That's likely to continue getting worse every year, too. Wait, neither of those things are very fun at all 
Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 02:33
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Sagebrush posted:Fun pseudo-OSHA fact about the current lumber prices: fancy furniture-grade plywood, made from high-quality baltic birch, has been getting more expensive every year. This is because the wood comes from far up in the frozen north of Russia and Finland where there aren't paved roads, so the lumber trucks need the ground to be frozen to access the forests. Global climate change has caused the winters to get shorter and warmer, the roads are melting into mud earlier in the year, and the trucks are getting bogged down and cut off. They should 3d print the trees.
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Apr 18, 2021 04:01
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Rexxed posted:They should 3d print the trees. They do that on their own, but it takes decades! 
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Apr 18, 2021 04:23
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Wibla posted:They do that on their own, but it takes decades! Cut them a break, they're litterally making mass out of air.
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Apr 18, 2021 08:46
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Paradoxish posted:I feel like with lumber prices right now the workbench is the most expensive thing in that picture. Jesus tell me about it. Total wood cost was as follows 11 2x4s @ $6 board 2 4x8 birch plywood sheets @ $58 board I’m about $200 total in the work bench total. It’s a beast though and will probably last forever. The cheapest plywood Lowe’s had was like $35 and I figured what the hell, for $20 more I can have a really nice workbench.
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Apr 18, 2021 11:03
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I'm getting a used Creality Ender 3 for cheap and can pick it up in a few hours  Yes, I know google exists, but can you link your favorite sites with information? I need test prints and software and idk I'm so excited!
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Apr 18, 2021 11:08
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RabbitWizard posted:I'm getting a used Creality Ender 3 for cheap and can pick it up in a few hours this playlist (Thomas Sanladerer printing basics): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDJMid0lOOYnkcFhz6rfQ6Uj8x7meNJJx Prusaslicer (there is other software, but this is my personal favourite.): https://www.prusa3d.de/prusaslicer/ You can find models on thingieverse (again, there are other pages ): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:798751 And this thread obviously  Edit: https://www.tinkercad.com/ Tinkercad for making simple models Dr Sun Try fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 11:25
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I don't see it coming up much in thread, but a great website for engineering part files is GrabCAD. McMaster is great for that as well. McMaster you'll have to pull into Fusion/SOLIDWORKS/OnShape/etc to get an STL, but both of these sites have been massively helpful.
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Apr 18, 2021 13:10
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RabbitWizard posted:I'm getting a used Creality Ender 3 for cheap and can pick it up in a few hours Stack that's been good for my purposes: Filament: PLA is the easiest for avoiding defects under a range of conditions. PETG is more durable and has better heat resistance. ABS has even better heat resistance, can be welded onto common plastic parts, finishes well, and can look nicer, but is subject to warping and splitting if it cools too quickly, and may emits more toxic fumes when printing. - Solidworks for building geometry (You can get for $20/year if you can qualify as student/military/other tricks). FreeCad is free, but is cumbersome to use. Blender may be suitable if you're making artistic things vice parts. - Cura for slicing (Converting the model geometry into Gcode instructions for the printer.) Default settings for your material. If it's too loud for you, you can buy a new motherboard that makes it much quieter. Installing can be a bit tricky due to the original wires being glued in. Does anyone have any tricks for automating the model -> printer process? Ie I have to click a sub-part in SW, select save, click through some menus and radio buttons to get the STL for that subpart, repeat for other subpart(s), open CURA, open part 1, select the base, reset the position, slice/save, close part 1, open/select/resize/slice/save part 2, unmount SD, move SD to printer. Can I loop in a python script or something? Guessing no. Dominoes fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 16:13
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You can definitely record macros in SOLIDWORKS, so that'll at least get you most of the way there. I tend to obviate the issue by just saving as a 3mf or amf file - does Cura support those? Fewer menus and better fidelity. E: I believe for assemblies it'll export the full assembly as a multibody file that can be worked with, although I use PrusaSlicer, so I don't know the Cura specifics.
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Apr 18, 2021 16:40
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It appears Cura supports those formats, but imports all subparts as the same piece. I'll give assembly-exporting a shot, but for now, assemblies are broken on my project due to the sub-parts rendering twice (once as a part, again as a subpart)
Dominoes fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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Apr 18, 2021 17:01
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I use Fusion and prusaslicer and can print a single piece with the 3d print command, need to see how well it does with a whole multi part assembly though
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Apr 18, 2021 17:51
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Dr Sun Try posted:this playlist (Thomas Sanladerer printing basics): Dominoes posted:What is your goal? I couldn't really wait and take time to learn things so I leveled the bed and tried some stuff. Here's my 1cm calibration cube which looks like a crouton:  The PLA I got with it seems to be old, it breaks when I bend it and afaik it shouldn't. New PLA is ordered. I diagnosed my cube with under-extrusion, does that seem right?
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Apr 18, 2021 18:45
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There's definitely something wrong with that cube, yeah. It is underextruded, but there are many reasons that could be happening. Wait for the new PLA first because yes, old filament can gently caress things up. Then print a benchy and see what it looks like. Also the calibration cubes are easier to interpret if you print them like 20mm on a side instead of 10.
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Apr 18, 2021 18:57
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RabbitWizard posted:Sweet, I started with Prusaslicer. Gonna watch that playlist later. #1, order this: https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Cap...18774077&sr=8-6 You'll get the spare parts yo'll hate yourself for not having when they DEFINITELY DO FAIL. The metal extruder won't break after a hundred hours. The yellow springs stop the bed from wiggling around. #2, it looks like your printer is set to MM^3 mode. Turn that off, things will print solid. It's in the menus on the display. #3, Just to back up other people. PLA is the easy choice, and works for ~most things~. Don't just buy "any" pla. Buy from a consistent vendor, that you can buy from again. Amazon directly with their overture brand, Microcenter with Inland, if you get something else, be sure it's a thing you CAN buy again. And ideally others have bought a lot of. #4, Test your printer. "well the settings worked" and sticking with it is a grand way to make sure your printer is always busy printing the thing you wanted two weeks ago, instead of the thing you wanted today. #5, print and install the Satsana cooling duct. And you don't need to print it using supports. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4369859 This is several orders of magnitude better than the stock cooling solution, and will stop prints that have uneven cooling artifacts. And.. probably double your print speed. #6, When the stock bed surface does die. (and it will..) buy a spring steel magnetic sheet, with PEI coating. You'll get told "buy glass." Don't. Glass is the peak of 2010 technology, it's 2021. #7, If there's "something wrong" throwing money, and modifications at the printer is ~probally the wrong answer~. In fact, almost always the wrong answer. Don't do it. Come ask. Remember, the stock Ender 3 will print a lot of things ~just fine~. (PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, and almost all of the filled filaments..) So... when that itch hits of "I want to print ~insert thing~ dont' think you need to change things to do it. (The tirck for ABS, is to put a box over the printer, then start the print after the box is warm.) #8, Octoprint is good. Printers can still have "weird problems" with octoprint. If you're having issues, take octoprint out of the equation, FIRST. Becuase adding layers of complexity only makes fixing things harder. #9, Don't obsess over bed leveling. Unless you need a .02mm first layer, lay down something fat, (like 0.3 or 0.4mm) and you'll be fine. If you want a perfect, first layer, you're not going to consistently get it with an extruded aluminum stacked layer type of hot bed. #10, if your extruder is skipping, buying a dual gear extruder is NOT the fix. Plastic should flow freely, if it does not, the problem is NOT the extruder. .................. Uh... that's my advice for you. :-)
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Apr 18, 2021 20:51
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Nerobro posted:#5, print and install the Satsana cooling duct. And you don't need to print it using supports. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4369859 This is several orders of magnitude better than the stock cooling solution, and will stop prints that have uneven cooling artifacts. And.. probably double your print speed What material should this be printed in? PLA is asking for it to melt. Overall good advice, do what this guy says.
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Apr 18, 2021 23:37
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ABS is best for fan ducts. PETG should work if the design doesn't get too close (like within 3 millimeters) of the heater block.
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Apr 18, 2021 23:40
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Might be time for me to buy a roll of something other than PLA (and the one roll of tpu I bought, lol at the thought of using that.)
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Apr 18, 2021 23:49
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cakesmith handyman posted:What material should this be printed in? PLA is asking for it to melt. as long as you're not in an enclosure, PLA works just fine for ducts and fan mounts on the Ender. As long as you have the part cooling fan running... the ducts are cooled too. :-) Sagebrush posted:ABS is best for fan ducts. PETG should work if the design doesn't get too close (like within 3 millimeters) of the heater block. Not to contridct you. You're right. ABS is best. PETG is somewhere in the middle... But PLA will work. Also.. PETG sags over time..... Nerobro fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 00:00
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RabbitWizard posted:I'm getting a used Creality Ender 3 for cheap and can pick it up in a few hours I think the OP might need an update, something like, Ender 3 vs Ender 3 V2 vs Prusa i3 mk3 PLA vs ABS (guess who bought 5+ rolls of ABS before finding out you are pretty much required to print it in an enclosure??) Prusaslicer vs Cura (still haven't used Cura, don't see the need to) autocad 360 vs blender vs ??? (will probably start CADing out my own stuff here next week) Third post on the first page still has links to waffleimages. The first page is oooooldddddddd not just the OP (last updated 3.75 years ago) I bought the BLTouch kit for the ender3 V2, that seems like a worthwhile upgrade These were my first two prints: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3161-3d-benchy https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/18651-voronoi-cute-octopus Then I've been printing this thing, full scale human spine vertebrae https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4801717   Why did I print it in Pink instead of white? See my PLA vs ABS comment above
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Apr 19, 2021 00:13
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So I have a roll of HTPLA that just arrived that I will attempt to print out for an ABS-like print for the part cooling fan duct. I actually don't know if the Flashforge Creator Pro model that I have has a part cooling fan, but I am pretty sure it does. HTPLA should be able to print and withstand ABS-like temperatures and can be annealed, and as long as it doesn't catastrophically warp then it should be able to go ahead and keep the deposited PLA in the future from warping for hopefully better prints. Also, I got one of those magnetic springy plate things that you don't need to paint scraper, so here's hoping I don't need to paint scraper it!
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Apr 19, 2021 00:22
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Hadlock just put a big cardboard box over your printer as an "enclosure".
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Apr 19, 2021 00:30
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It's time to replace the X and Y bearings on my Prusa and while I'm at it I might as well replace the rods too - at least one of them has a tiny groove worn in around the center. I'm happy just buying parts from the Prusa store but in my searching I found this listing for ~improved~ smooth rods with a harder surface finish and lower dimensional tolerance. Does it seem worth the "upgrade" over the stock rods?
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Apr 19, 2021 00:54
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Re the used ender 3 honestly just get some new pla. Old filament is gonna cause some really inconsistent problems that will be confusing and hard to pin down. Good opportunity to clean/relube rods etc if you haven't already. Also an ender 3 is a really good base to dig around and print your own upgrades so YouTube will be your friend. PLA makes for a fine fan duct and I'd be printing in that for pretty much everything to start with unless you have a good reason to go with something else
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Apr 19, 2021 00:59
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Sagebrush posted:ABS is best for fan ducts. PETG should work if the design doesn't get too close (like within 3 millimeters) of the heater block. I got some HTPLA back before MakerGeeks got lovely and it worked great for the bullseye, but without the annealing process. I tried annealing a set and they just warped to poo poo. But as printed it's been fine for a couple of years now.
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Apr 19, 2021 01:11
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Nerobro posted:#1, order this: https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Cap...18774077&sr=8-6 You'll get the spare parts yo'll hate yourself for not having when they DEFINITELY DO FAIL. The metal extruder won't break after a hundred hours. The yellow springs stop the bed from wiggling around. Nerobro posted:#2, it looks like your printer is set to MM^3 mode. Turn that off, things will print solid. It's in the menus on the display. Nerobro posted:#3, Just to back up other people. PLA is the easy choice, and works for ~most things~. Don't just buy "any" pla. Buy from a consistent vendor, that you can buy from again. Amazon directly with their overture brand, Microcenter with Inland, if you get something else, be sure it's a thing you CAN buy again. And ideally others have bought a lot of. Nerobro posted:#4, Test your printer. "well the settings worked" and sticking with it is a grand way to make sure your printer is always busy printing the thing you wanted two weeks ago, instead of the thing you wanted today. Nerobro posted:#5, print and install the Satsana cooling duct. And you don't need to print it using supports. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4369859 This is several orders of magnitude better than the stock cooling solution, and will stop prints that have uneven cooling artifacts. And.. probably double your print speed. Nerobro posted:#6, When the stock bed surface does die. (and it will..) buy a spring steel magnetic sheet, with PEI coating. You'll get told "buy glass." Don't. Glass is the peak of 2010 technology, it's 2021. Nerobro posted:#7, If there's "something wrong" throwing money, and modifications at the printer is ~probally the wrong answer~. In fact, almost always the wrong answer. Don't do it. Come ask. Remember, the stock Ender 3 will print a lot of things ~just fine~. (PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, and almost all of the filled filaments..) So... when that itch hits of "I want to print ~insert thing~ dont' think you need to change things to do it. (The tirck for ABS, is to put a box over the printer, then start the print after the box is warm.) Nerobro posted:#8, Octoprint is good. Printers can still have "weird problems" with octoprint. If you're having issues, take octoprint out of the equation, FIRST. Becuase adding layers of complexity only makes fixing things harder. Nerobro posted:#9, Don't obsess over bed leveling. Unless you need a .02mm first layer, lay down something fat, (like 0.3 or 0.4mm) and you'll be fine. If you want a perfect, first layer, you're not going to consistently get it with an extruded aluminum stacked layer type of hot bed. Nerobro posted:#10, if your extruder is skipping, buying a dual gear extruder is NOT the fix. Plastic should flow freely, if it does not, the problem is NOT the extruder. Nerobro posted:.................. Uh... that's my advice for you. :-)
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Apr 19, 2021 01:53
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aldantefax posted:So I have a roll of HTPLA that just arrived that I will attempt to print out for an ABS-like print for the part cooling fan duct. I actually don't know if the Flashforge Creator Pro model that I have has a part cooling fan, but I am pretty sure it does. HTPLA should be able to print and withstand ABS-like temperatures and can be annealed, and as long as it doesn't catastrophically warp then it should be able to go ahead and keep the deposited PLA in the future from warping for hopefully better prints. I use the ProtoPasta HTPLAs, and I really do like the texture and final finish, but don't expect them to handle heat quite the same way ABS can. Even annealed, I got a slow droop and sag over time till it eventually failed. They worked fine for brief exposure to heat, but an enclosed printer for hours on end, it was a slow failure. If you're doing a duct and have air moving through the bulk of it, you should be fine.
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Apr 19, 2021 03:44
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snail posted:I use the ProtoPasta HTPLAs, and I really do like the texture and final finish, but don't expect them to handle heat quite the same way ABS can. Even annealed, I got a slow droop and sag over time till it eventually failed. They worked fine for brief exposure to heat, but an enclosed printer for hours on end, it was a slow failure. The ducting is exactly what I planned to use it for and then go back to PLA afterwards, so good to know that I'm on the right track!
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Apr 19, 2021 04:40
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I got drunk and cracked the elephants foot issue on my ender 3! If your z rod isn't perfectly straight, get some washers and fix the brace next to the motor so it is. Eliminated some initial binding and now things are perfect. w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 05:10
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Nerobro posted:#5, print and install the Satsana cooling duct. And you don't need to print it using supports. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4369859 This is several orders of magnitude better than the stock cooling solution, and will stop prints that have uneven What's the difference between this one and the Petsfang/Bullseye(besides their ludacris number of options/configurations)? The Satsana does look easier overall. Is this an illusion or is that the biggest reason to use one or the other? I haven't printed either one yet, but am in a good place with a fresh spool/now's the time to do it. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 13:59
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toplitzin posted:What's the difference between this one and the Petsfang/Bullseye(besides their ludacris number of options/configurations)? FUNNY you mention that..... TL;DR: The Satsana is designed to print easily. It's designed to be printed. It's designed to work without buying anything new. We'll start off with the part that bugs me the most. The bullseye is a horrific pile of poo to print. Every discussion of the bullseye includes some "I can't get the top to close" in the discussion. This is a symptom of a larger issue in the 3dP community, in that a large number of the things we're supposed to be able to print, are NOT DESIGNED TO BE PRINTED. What's more the Bullseye is also delicate. I mean, your duct isn't supposed to touch the print, but ducts work better the closer you get to the print height.... and sometimes prints reach up to touch the print head. There are other ducts that are reasonable. I am a fan of the HeroME designs. But even those aren't designed "well". They're not exactly designed with printing in mind, and more often than not, many of their fasteners require being able to phase the screw through layers of deposited plastic to be able to attach the duct to the mount. The long list of options and configurations you'll find, is more a reflection of people trying to fix things that aren't "real" and trying to use parts they have, versus parts that are good, a good idea, or useful. For example, my buddy has some 50x20 blowers on his Ender. They're strong enough to blow apart a PLA bridge. Why would you do this? why do you need this? And he never prints at more than 40mm/s. And I'm running around printing at 100-150mm/s on the 40x10 blower. I haven't tried all the ducts. But I think the HeroMe is the best overall. The satsana is the easiest answer, and is definitely "good" and "good enough". It solves the problems with the stock cooling, prints super easy, and requires no new hardware.
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Apr 19, 2021 14:58
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Nerobro posted:FUNNY you mention that..... Thanks! Currently i'm on a E-3 Pro and it's printing almost perfect on an assortment of magnetic mats i picked up. First layer can be a little funky, but otherwise it's been good. I haven't' gone crazy with print speeds or any of the pressure tuning via klipper. I hover around "is it worth loving with as in print and install now" or "print it and next time i have to tear down the hotend for a clog or something, and install the thing while i'm at it?" Edit: yeah that satsana is easy mode. time to queue it up. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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Apr 19, 2021 15:16
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toplitzin posted:Thanks! The Satsana comes off with like.. one screw. The HeroMe isn't so kind. I also am not a fan of the 15mm or whatever kick forward the Gen5 has. I use a gen 3.
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Apr 19, 2021 15:21
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I don't really like how the Satsana comes together, could use threaded inserts or nuts instead of digging into the plastic. And it's a little tricky to get a good grip to change the nozzle. But the Satsana has given me the best results in printing after two HeroMe ducts kind of lost their shape.
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Apr 19, 2021 15:40
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