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how long does it take to print something like that shark thing? looks to be about 6 cubic inches
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Dec 14, 2010 21:04
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 11:42 |
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now for someone who is woefully unaware of how that poo poo works, can you: 1 drink out of those bitches? 2 sand them to make them look nicer? Cause they're pretty tyte
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May 1, 2011 19:04
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Dang! How many cubic centimeters of material is that?
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Mar 6, 2013 04:12
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What the heck are kids in the k-5 range gonna learn from 3d printers anyway? The meaning of patience? How to kill brain cells with acetone fumes?
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Jul 15, 2014 04:48
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Amazing
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Jan 13, 2015 00:56
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A cold Bud Light Lime can have condensation on it, causing it to be released from your grasp as you violently empty it into the sink. The 3D printed Bud Buddy takes care of all those problems!
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Jan 14, 2015 04:03
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gently caress, my local place just bumped up to $250/month full time.
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Apr 30, 2015 19:54
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:That's the 'show up and take your poo poo when you're done' student version. Full price with storage and project space is like 200ish a month. I don't get storage or a workspace. Everything is shared, but I can kind of dump stuff at the back of the wood shop for a day or two if I need.
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Apr 30, 2015 20:09
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I'm excited to show off my very first print: They were printed on some of my local makerspace's Bukito Portables. The one on the left has a .3 mm layer thickness and the print on the right a .2 mm.
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May 13, 2015 05:27
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Is it at all possible to do with cooling and settling? I guess there shouldn't really be any settling, though, right?
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May 13, 2015 17:17
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poo poo gets hosed up more easierly
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Jul 30, 2015 01:17
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Do you have any examples of the coating on a less organic shape?
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Oct 24, 2015 23:25
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Nerobro posted:http://hypecask.com/portfolio-item/deltatower/ Well that's a website or it.. That looks similar to Techknight's photo but it's definitely not the same machine. For one, the extruded aluminum parts are different; Techknight's looks a hell of a lot beefier and have two grooves. Finally, the printer on the website is only 135 cm/4 1/2 ft tall, and well...
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Jan 1, 2016 20:41
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helno posted:I am well aware of that and have no intention of designing my own molds. Setting up draft angles is actually pretty easy in Solidworks. symbebekos posted:I have a little bit of experience with injection molding, although I'm not particularly technical. If you just want a realistic ballpark quote, you could try using ICOmold.com's online system. Takes a bit for them to get back to you (vice, say, ProtoMold) but they do fairly low quantities and their facility is in China. (I am not affiliated and I have not run a product through them.) Did you try what this guy said?
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May 4, 2016 03:23
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I haven't got the date yet but mine's still 3 weeks out at least
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May 10, 2017 05:50
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My Prusa finally shipped. Little word of warning for others waiting on an order, wait time is more like 9 weeks now.
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Jun 23, 2017 18:43
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Sagebrush posted:Where do you measure your z-height from? Is it an offboard limit switch or some kind of sensor over the bed? Prusa has you sticking a zip tie under the pinda probe and manually adjusting it.
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Jul 22, 2017 22:18
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What's a well recommended and cheap PLA brand in the United States that know how to wrap their spools? I now have 2 spools of eSun PLA with hosed up twisted winding that causes a lot of underextrusion problems and seems to last for the entire roll. See:  
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Sep 19, 2017 21:47
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food court bailiff posted:What's causing Cura to make so many awful passes over the interior of this part (please pardon my filthy workbench). Literally everything in that print had big internal spaces and this is the only part that consistently has this issue. Combing is set to All in the settings. I can't quite tell but if your cross section looks like this the part with the arrow needs supports cause other wise it's just printing into thin air. 
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Oct 7, 2017 20:44
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Acid Reflux posted:
If you're gonna jam lights in it, you might want to heat cure it first. Normal PLA doesn't have very high heat tolerance
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Nov 14, 2017 06:44
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Prusa Slic3r has 5 solid bottom layers and 6 solid top. It seems like a lot but prints tend to come out pretty darn good.
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Nov 26, 2017 19:30
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Started getting weird layer offsets all of the sudden on my Prusa MK2s. I was printing fine just 3 or 4 days ago, and the only thing I can think of that's changed is that I updated the firmware on my printer.  The weird thing is that it's super consistent. I've already forgotten which print is which, but it doesn't really matter. First I tried to replicate the issue. Then I remembered that I hadn't updated Slic3r on my main computer, so I did that and re-sliced the model. Then I oiled all the linear bearings. Nothing. Here's all I really know: the offset direction is on the X axis. 
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Nov 30, 2017 19:08
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mewse posted:Not sure if this is what youre experiencing but I was getting layer shifting on my Y axis and it turned out the grub screws on the belt pulley had worked themselves loose. A little bit of loctite fixed it. I have to admit I was a little skeptical, but it worked! Thank you.
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Nov 30, 2017 20:51
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What was weird is that it wasn't even the grub screw that locks into the keyway that was loose (well it was a tiny bit). It was the other one, allowing the pulley to move up and down the shaft. And I guess rub the pulley a little bit? I don't really know, but it worked.
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Nov 30, 2017 22:30
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Like this?  Here's the part if so: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ie528fx593geh9r/CloFan.f3d?dl=0 Fayez Butts fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Dec 3, 2017 |
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Dec 3, 2017 21:27
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the spyder posted:I have been waiting for feedback on material usage before placing my order and after this came out, I don't think I'm ready to pull the trigger yet. The pure waste ratio is just beyond excessive. They're working on making the material change happen during infill (obviously not for support material) so that should cut down on waste.
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Dec 13, 2017 03:12
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mattfl posted:Prusa i3 mk2s kit has been ordered! Feel like I’m in for a hell of a ride! It's such a great printer
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Dec 31, 2017 19:30
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Nephzinho posted:Hatchbox PLA reliable or should I just stick to ordering $50+ at a time from Monoprice for free shipping? Was going to put a few of the Hatchbox colors on an Amazon watchlist for sales. I like the orange Hatchbox PLA I got after returning the eSun stuff cause it looked ugly. Printed well and looks good, though it's a little less opaque than I'd like.
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Jan 10, 2018 04:58
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I made an enclosure out of cardboard. It is fine.
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Jan 11, 2018 22:34
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NeurosisHead posted:I think I'm going to bite the bullet and buy my first 3d printer. I'm going to go for the Prusa Mk3 kit. I am utterly a novice to 3d printing, but I have hobbyist experience in finish carpentry, running a lathe and mill, and building computers so I hope I'll be able to catch on quick. The website says they won't ship until March, so I have some time to prepare. Any tips from you more experienced folks? Any things you would recommend doing right out of the gate, or researching while I wait for the printer to arrive so that I'm best prepared? Any advice is appreciated! I was in your position 8 months ago and got a mk2. It was super easy get acclimated with everything, though make sure your stepper pulley grub screws get loctited for best print quality. All else I can really say is watch some Maker's Muse slicing videos on Youtube
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Feb 24, 2018 21:11
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Honestly your best bet is to do a bunch of prints and see what works best for your printer. I usually have a “kerf” parameter for my models in fusion 360 so I can update it on the fly. For my mk2s I’ve found .1mm works best.
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May 20, 2018 22:13
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Make a "kerf" parameter and gently caress with it until you get the desired toightness
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Oct 24, 2018 04:39
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I could have invented that. But I'm not a monster
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Nov 25, 2018 20:24
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Well this is a bummer. My extruder on my i3 Mk2S only clicks now, except that it works fine when plugged into other channels and tested. I'm also not getting any error codes and the board and fuses all look OK. Are there any simple tests that a person with no electrical skills can do to figure out what the problem is?
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Dec 12, 2018 23:34
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I meant the motor spins fine when say, connected to the x axis portickna posted:I had this exact problem on the same kind of machine. It’s a bad connection on the board. Open it up and make sure the connector is seated all the way. You may have to pry off some hot glue to do it. Cool, will do!
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Dec 13, 2018 02:20
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ickna posted:I had this exact problem on the same kind of machine. Its a bad connection on the board. Open it up and make sure the connector is seated all the way. You may have to pry off some hot glue to do it. So I checked the board out, the connector is soldered to it directly and looks fine. I did some more detective work and the extruder seems to spin fine counter clockwise (unloading filament) but doesn't spin clockwise. That is unless I plug it into the X axis channel, where it will spin clockwise, but not counter clockwise. Do I have to get a new RAMBo already? It's only been like a year.
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Dec 13, 2018 21:02
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mewse posted:That's suspicious. If you plug one of the axis motors into the E port on the rambo are you able to drive the motor both directions? If so, it's probably not the rambo that's messed up, it's the E motor or cable Just plugged the X axis into the Extruder port. It clicks in both directions.  edit: to clarify it clicks when using the move axis commands. I suspect that not enough power is being delivered. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HTy191pPQ0&hd=1 Here's a video of the extruder being bad. I think the Unload Filament command works because the motor is being sent more power than usual, to spin it faster. Fayez Butts fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Dec 16, 2018 |
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Dec 15, 2018 23:35
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always be closing posted:i3 mega and ender 3 seem perfect for me, I just want to print multi-piece terrain for 28mm scale mordheim. Both under $200 shipped on Ali Express. Do these things arrive DOA very often? Just don't expect to get that level of quality straight out of the box.
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Feb 11, 2019 03:43
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food court bailiff posted:I've had good luck printing Hatchbox PLA, you need to be very careful to never introduce any slack in the filament or it will loosen the coils around the spindle and rebind them over each other, but with a fresh roll and a little bit of care you'll get great results. No, that just happens when you let go of the end, and it will happen with any spool of filament.
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Feb 23, 2019 15:30
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 11:42 |
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Funzo posted:I'm sure this has been answered before, but is there a recommended app for getting started in 3d modeling? At first, I just want to be able to resize parts to specific dimensions, but it would be nice to have something for when I want to start making my own stuff. Fusion 360, bay bee
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Apr 15, 2019 21:55
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