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MickRaider posted:No get the printrbot simple metal Wouldn't the Prusa i3v be a better choice? Gigantic build envelope for a little more.
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Nov 18, 2014 21:59
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 02:31 |
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Has the new 12" Prusa i3v from Makerfarm been around long enough for anybody to comment on the frame being overly flexy? I'm tempted by the extra build volume, even though it would be my first printer. I was pretty sold on the 10" until I saw this new larger size.
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Jan 4, 2015 20:40
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e: nevermind
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Feb 1, 2015 19:56
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Nondescript Van posted:Maybe this isn't the best place to ask this, but where I can I sell my prusa i3v? I bought it around a year ago and I have literally only completed a single print. I just got super tired of loving around with it. All the parts are in almost unused condition. The Makerfarm version? What size is it? I'd be pretty tempted, to be honest.
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Feb 12, 2015 23:35
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Is it worth getting something like the Maker Ultimate from Monoprice when something like the original Prusa i3 MK3 is $50 more? It seems like you get significantly more printer for the money with the Monoprice, but this would be my first printer so I really have no idea whats going on.
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Nov 17, 2017 22:43
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How did you make the trays work? Cut out the bottoms or do they come off and leave you with a ring? If I was seeing them correctly on Amazon, it looked like they were shallow grid bottom trays and then a lid on top instead of any kind of deep lid/collar.
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Jan 4, 2019 04:29
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So, I got an Ender 3 a couple days ago and everything has been near-flawless so far. The only issue that's been coming up occasionally to varying degrees is weird layers at the start of a gap/hole/feature. On a couple prints it came up as 2-3 layers of banding, and on another it turned into lack of adhesion or under-extrusion (I think). The second would have still been a functional part if I had more infill/solid on such a thin wall, at least. Good example of the weird banding only at the start and end of the holes. Tiny bit of under-extrusion on one, I think?  This one has the lack of adhesion/under-extrusion all the way around the part at the slot ending layer, and has the more usual banding down on the other side of the slot which is hard to see because lovely picture. Using Cura, Hatchbox PLA at 205/60, .15 layer, usually 55mm/s print speed although I've been playing with print speed a bit here and there depending on the part.
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Jan 4, 2019 17:54
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How fast do nozzles wear? I've still got the first .4 nozzle on my Ender 3. About halfway through a 1kg roll of PLA without doing any swaps.
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Jan 8, 2019 03:41
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I've been growing suspicious of my steps/mm calibration being bad and wrong, so out of curiosity I scaled a 20mm calibration cube to 60mm and printed it at stock steps/mm and it came out essentially perfect. I think the inaccuracy I had at a normal 20mm cube was entirely extrusion based. Why is a 20mm cube and wild adjustments on steps/mm such common advice?
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Jan 26, 2019 15:28
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Wozbo posted:Should I be in the house while printing ala don’t dry clothes and leave the house? I've had an ender 3 for about 4 months, running mostly daily and with 30+ overnight and while away at work prints (8 to 20 hours). No problems at all. I generally stick around to check up on it after the first couple layers, and then I leave or go to bed/etc. I was slightly uneasy about it at first, but it doesn't bother me at all now. I check the bed after every couple prints, and it's not hard at all, and really not a hassle despite what the internet says. That said, I'm in generally the same position you're in, and now that I know 3d printing is cool and good I'm constantly tempted to get a Prusa, but at the same time, and with only a little extra work on my part, the Ender 3 is doing really goddamned good and I haven't talked myself into spending $800.
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Feb 17, 2019 21:28
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Atomic PETG is great, highly recommended. I haven't tried their PLA yet, because it's so much easier to print and Hatchbox has been plenty good enough so far.
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Apr 17, 2019 01:37
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That was the trick for me. PETG seems to adhere to itself so well that more room on the first layer and barely tickling the edge of underextrusion made for way better results. I spent forever trying to fix it with retraction with zero repeatable success.
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Jun 6, 2019 00:57
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So I've done plenty of pla and petg, but I'm working on a very very big edge belt sander that runs 107x8" belts and need giant crowned wheels. If I had a large enough lathe, I'd make them out of aluminum, but it occurs to me I can maybe print them out of PETG or ABS (which I've never used before), but also the possibility of sending in files to be printed is a thing. What's the strongest possible filament choice if I'm outsourcing? SLS glass reinforced nylon? 8" tall, 6" dia crowned cylinder. Needs to be safe spinning at 1725rpm, hold a 5/8 steel shaft with a full length keyway and take a relatively high static load. That seems within the capability of PETG, bit that's also a lot of printing and probably potential print failure when I could just outsource it instead. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Jun 17, 2019 |
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Jun 17, 2019 18:59
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Spent $20 and got the Creality textured glass bed for my Ender and good lord why did I spend so much time with my warped bed and the fake buildtak. It's flat, PLA sticks awesome and then releases easily after it cools. I'm a little afraid to try PETG but we'll see..
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Jun 26, 2019 03:25
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Related question, is the clear/natural filament (specifically PLA) easy to print, as it should be the opposite of something like white, which is full of pigment? I sort of like that generic semi-opaque natural PLA look but I've never bought a roll.
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Jun 28, 2019 21:22
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Put a 3 point leveling Y carriage on my Ender 3 and now I have zero urge to dick with mesh leveling or anything of the sort. It is so damned easy to level.
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Jul 4, 2019 12:15
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You make two screws level, then adjust over the 3rd and it's perfect. The stock leveling isn't difficult, but it's more iterative because raising or lowering one corner has an effect on the opposite corner. 3 point doesn't.
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Jul 4, 2019 14:46
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Gulf coast. Showed up quick, nice easy install. Their instructions are a little outdated but it's not a big deal.
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Jul 4, 2019 17:26
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First thing to check is to pop off the nozzle and bowden and see if it's clogging.
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Jul 8, 2019 10:50
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An Ender 3 is under $200. If you're feeling feisty, a coated glass bed is another $20, a handful of inexpensive replacement nozzles is another $5 and you're still barely over $200. Beyond that, support will replace parts for you, and you'll need to spend a little time printing filament guides and other fun stuff which is a great time to get the bugs worked out and learn how the printer goes together. The prusa is great and everything, but an ender 3 is $200. e: fwiw I'll probably buy a prusa eventually because it seems like the move to make for a second printer and having a printer with a lower tinkering level sounds nice, but I'm glad I didn't get one at first. I've put over 15kg of filament through my Ender and I have about $300 in it for the printer itself and upgrades/parts. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jul 17, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2019 23:40
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The flashing ? is a thing in newer ender 3 firmware, which is why you're not seeing it in tutorials.
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Jul 20, 2019 16:50
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It does look high. Also print speed should be fairly slow on the first layer. The fake buildtak stuff adheres great when it's new, so it's unlikely it's the surface.
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Aug 3, 2019 01:52
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AgentCow007 posted:How hot can I run my Ender 3 Pro bed without it demagnetizing? I'm getting a roll of PETG today to make some stuff for in my car, and the Amazon reviews for it say to use 75C. 75 is totally fine. Supposedly above 85 is where things demagnetize, but there are also lots of evidence of them being fine at 100c.
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Aug 4, 2019 02:16
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PETG definitely handles car-heat. I've got a tray/organizer sitting on the dashboard of my truck at work and it's survived the ridiculous summer we're having in Ohio without a problem.
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Aug 5, 2019 23:06
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It smells a *shitload* less. I think I did one print with regular ABS before deciding it was a pain in the rear end, but i'm two spools deep of ABS+ and it's way better. Still sort of wary of using it without an enclosure because degree of smell ≠ degree of danger but still.
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Aug 7, 2019 13:42
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Many people who have constant leveling problems just don't have enough spring tension, and either need to lower the endstop or get beefier springs.
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Aug 14, 2019 17:02
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TBH that sounds like a combination of the usual variability with printing (and filament quality) along with PETG doing PETG things.
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Aug 19, 2019 22:03
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The Autodesk tutorials aren't for people starting from zero, other than one hour long intro video that's slightly outdated.
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Aug 21, 2019 01:13
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I'm usually too lazy to actually have different profiles set up for different materials in Cura, and I just swapped the printer from PETG to PLA. Halfway through a print with PLA and realized it's running at 240 degrees because I forgot to change the temperature. Weirdly, it's printing perfectly.
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Nov 16, 2019 19:47
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Combat Pretzel posted:Last I remember you'll be replacing poo poo on the Ender pretty quickly. If you're lucky, it'll add up close to what the Prusa would have cost to begin with. Yeah, if you're an anodized aluminum bro that can't keep their hands off unnecessary upgrades. I've printed around 25kg of filament through my ender 3 and the only things I've done are swap the mainboard for silent drivers, tape on a glass bed and install a Y-carriage. I don't think there's anything else necessary beyond that. I have $300 in it total.
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Nov 29, 2019 17:05
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Professor Shark posted:The Ender Pro is on for a good rate, however reviews suggest that the X is superior. What would be the best investment between the two? With current sales landing the X at like $180, it's the best price/performance. Already has the glass bed, which is $20 https://www.creality3dofficial.com/collections/ender-series/products/official-creality-ender-3x-3d-printer?sca_ref=10788.CFDqhuwn3C e: to be clear, the 3X is just a 3 with a glass bed thrown in. The Pro is a 3 with a larger extrusion for the Y axis and a different power supply. With everything on sale, it wouldn't be a bad move to get a Pro and pick up the $20 glass bed, but if you want to save a little money, get the 3X. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 00:39
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Speaking of printers as a hobby and the Ender 3/Prusa argument we're all so fond of, I just ordered the SecKit SK-Go. Buying a second batch printer from a single dude in Taiwan that's running a printer company seems insane, but I did it anyways. The dude is astonishingly transparent on Facebook, and beyond exactly the kinds of teething problems you would expect from a one man show printer, it's really impressive. I've been tempted to get a Prusa and replace my Ender 3, but I have largely perfect results with it and spending just under $800 for the same general platform and size is insane. If my Ender was a shitshow I'm sure I'd feel different, though. 12" volume, full extrusion frame, linear rail, CoreXY, direct drive, and 32 bit. Long and ridiculous build and setup but that's unbeatable for $780 shipped.
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Dec 1, 2019 04:39
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stevewm posted:I didn't design it, just printed it.. It was a butt plug joke. 
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Dec 3, 2019 15:06
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insta posted:I bought three and they all do it. I'd just start changing various things. Different cable, port and maybe live disc Linux on a different machine? It's either that or they had a bad run of boards.
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Dec 5, 2019 18:06
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Tremors posted:Just dropped an skr mini e3 into my printer and and thought I messed up the install when I first turned it on. These 2209 drivers are witchcraft. Now I need to replace the hot end and mainboard fans because it's a lot more apparent how loud they are now. It's wild. I used to start prints and turn around to double check that the purge and skirt were going down well once I heard the steppers moving, but with the silent drivers I end up forgetting and turn around to a print that's already half an inch tall.
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Dec 7, 2019 16:40
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shovelbum posted:Still looking at printers for when I get done with my crazy work schedule this winter and have some free time in the spring, is there anything to be found at a higher price point than the Prusas that benefits the hobbyist? Like going from a ~$1k max budget to $2k? 8 bit cartesian moving Y axis (like a Prusa) is limited, but probably not an issue for most people. Core XY would be the next step, the advantage being faster speeds, larger print volumes, tooling plate beds, etc. There are certainly significant diminishing returns though. If you're considering a big budget but it's a first printer, a Prusa would still be the way to go imo.
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Dec 20, 2019 00:04
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cakesmith handyman posted:Ender 3 pro with magnetic bed: 1. Slightly, but an aftermarket board with better drivers is far far better. The Creality board is easy to install, but maybe a little expensive for what it is. This is a great option that's also essentially plug and play https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikHhzOIlHPg 2. Probably, yeah. I use those same yellow die springs linked above. 3. I am a giant fan of 3 point y axis. I put the Gulfcoast Robotics y carriage on my printer and it's great. Paired that with a creality coated glass bed and I love it. I set up some gcode to help with bed leveling here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4032736 Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Dec 20, 2019 |
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Dec 20, 2019 15:10
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Combat Pretzel posted:I heard through the grapevines that Sanladerer was being a dick towards the MPCNC guy for whatever reason, which I forgot, and that tainted his remaining MPCNC video(s?) accordingly. Yeah. It was sort of a poo poo headed faction war between MPCNC people and Sanladerer fans. They were both fairly wrong about it.
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Dec 25, 2019 22:06
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Have I mentioned recently how nice 3D Solutech natural PLA is? It's normally $18 for 1kg on Amazon, but it was down to $14 a few weeks ago and I bought 4 more rolls. I'm slamming out parts with a .6 nozzle/.48 layers/.675 line width and it's just the most agreeable filament I've ever used. Looks really cool too.
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Dec 26, 2019 02:49
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 02:31 |
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To be fair, your last sentence there is probably telling. First version of a new Prusa printer vs the ~4th version of their original printer. The advantage is they'll probably make it right eventually.
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Dec 27, 2019 09:07
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