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Claes Oldenburger posted:Yea I noticed this too, especially compared to the B9. You could probably print one of the quality you'd find in a hardware store or walmart no problem, but with a high-performance airsoft gun you'd run into a few problems. Without a soft rubber hopup bucking you wouldn't get a good airseal or backspin on your BBs. A metal barrel is pretty important for accuracy and velocity. Durability would be an issue too, even metal gearbox housings can be prone to cracking in high FPS setups.
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2012 02:09 |
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2024 13:10 |
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This is really cool, a 3D printer than can print circuits as part of an object: http://venturebeat.com/2015/01/05/autodesk-unveils-project-wire-software-that-may-someday-let-anyone-3d-print-electronics/
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# ¿ Jan 9, 2015 04:34 |
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¿Porque no los dos? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndx-amkf4qU
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2017 00:01 |
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I don't speak German, but that would be my guess. It appears to blow out an inert shielding gas, and then lase the workpiece and shoot metal powder at it.
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2017 03:57 |
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biracial bear for uncut posted:It's actually a far cry from it because laser engravers are a poo poo ton more dangerous if you do something wrong.
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# ¿ Jun 22, 2017 16:37 |
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I put mine on a chunk of 1" steel plate. Isolates the vibrations nicely.
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# ¿ Jun 30, 2017 17:07 |
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It'll dry your skin out, but as long as you're not sucking on the things you should be alright. They're designed to be used topically, after all.
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# ¿ Sep 9, 2017 14:22 |
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CloFan posted:Also get a concrete block
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# ¿ Jan 9, 2018 03:14 |
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A condensed aerosol fire suppression system would be perfect for an enclosure if they were more readily available.
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# ¿ Jan 19, 2018 23:50 |
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Goddamn, I thought the resin one was going to be 99 bucks? I think "relatively inexpensive" was all the detail we got. https://hackaday.com/2017/01/07/ces2017-monoprice-unveils-expanded-line-of-3d-printers/
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2018 05:15 |
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NeurosisHead posted:I don't see anything about Fusion360 being free for hobbyists on their website. What am I missing? Guide here: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/supp...Fusion-360.html
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# ¿ May 23, 2018 04:41 |
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Sagebrush posted:The Form2, for about $3500. Are the D7 and Moai that bad? I'd read decent stuff on them.
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# ¿ May 23, 2018 16:46 |
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n/m
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# ¿ May 24, 2018 03:27 |
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Reason #1334339 why I love my printer: Very nice, that's great work. I've considered hacking together a collective lever, but I'm not sure I fly helos enough to justify it. On the other hand, I might be more inclined to fly them with the right controls.
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# ¿ Jan 4, 2021 03:33 |
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w00tmonger posted:How much of a thing is a dry storage box for filament while in storage/in use? Calgary Alberta, so generally dry, snowy winters I'm in central AB and haven't had any issues storing PLA and PETG just in resealable plastic bags with some desiccant packets, or my printer enclosure with desiccant pellets.
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# ¿ Jan 7, 2021 00:04 |
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mewse posted:Will the superpinda retrofit on a prusa mk2(s) without firmware updates etc? I'm going insane with first layer heights / PETG right now Speaking of Prusa, I upgraded my MK2/S to a MK3S+ and these textured sheets are amazing. I wasn't too excited when I first saw them but goddamn they're amazing. I can print tall narrow objects with no problem, and after it cools PETG parts just pop off as soon as I touch them.
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# ¿ Feb 2, 2021 19:34 |
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"Extrude Down" is the command you're looking for in 3D Builder. Just move the model up by the amount you want to thicken it, then extrude down from the bottom. Edit: or just stretch the z axis as mentioned above. TerminalSaint fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Feb 4, 2021 |
# ¿ Feb 4, 2021 23:56 |
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This is very neat: https://twitter.com/XYZdims/status/1367529120779894790?s=19
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2021 21:44 |
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A brim can help with edge adhesion in the meantime.
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# ¿ Mar 17, 2021 20:57 |
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CNC Kitchen testing on layer height did not seem to suggest an improvement in strength with thicker layers. The ratio of layer height to nozzle diameter was more important, with a pretty sharp drop off starting when layer height exceeded half the nozzle diameter. https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/the-influence-of-layer-height-on-the-strength-of-fdm-3d-prints
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2021 21:15 |
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Dominoes posted:Out of curiosity, what types of things are y'all printing? I just started this adventure. Have been using to prototype electronics enclosures with an Ender3 in PETG and ABS. Am considering using in early iterations of commercial projects to validate interest before injection molding. One of the projects is heat sensitive, so ABS may be the best bet. 2 are moisture sensitive. Replacement feed lips for my airsoft mags. They feed more reliably than the originals, and cost ~$0.06 as opposed to $6 for OEM replacements, so I don't have to worry about dropping mags. I lost one of the soft jaw covers for my hobby vise, so I made some replacements. I needed relatively square cuts on some 2040 extrusions and didn't have a chow saw, so I made a jig for accurate-ish hacksawing. Those 2040 extrusions combined with an old joystick, a bunch of printed parts, and sundry to make a 3 axis translation controller for space sims. I was inspired largely by the Apollo Translation Hand Controller. The guts.
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# ¿ Apr 16, 2021 02:09 |
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:That thing looks extremely loving rad, and I'd like to know more about it. I used the gimbal and the circuitry from an old Saitek X-55 joystick because I had one lying around and building a gimbal from scratch seemed like a pain in the rear end. I made a case to essentially hold it rotated 90 degrees toward the user, and designed a new handle so it can still be held vertically. This setup makes for very intuitive translation on left/right and up/down axes. The handle has a trigger, 4 buttons, and an 8-way hat switch for extra controls. That assembly has rods protruding out the back that run in LMU8 bearings held in a frame clamped to my desk, allowing it to slide forward and back. The rods and bearings were leftovers I had kicking around from when I upgraded my Prusa. If I were to build from scratch again without them I'd probably opt for linear rails instead, but they do a perfectly good job. Extending from the rear in addition to the bearing rods, at the bottom there's a gear rack that engages a pinion mounted on a rotational sensor. That sensor is wired in place of the unused twist axis. This controls the forward/rear translation or throttle depending on the game. At the top there's a rectangular rod with indents in its sides. The indents are engaged by a pair of arms with bearings that ride along the sides, pressed inward by magnetic repulsion. This acts as a detent to give haptic feedback telling me where the center of the axis is. The detent rod can be swapped out for different rods with indents in different positions depending on the feedback useful in a given game: optimal turn speed, afterburners, etc. It was a project I had been thinking about for a while, so when I had a few weeks off work building it was a great way to spend my time.
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2021 02:53 |
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w00tmonger posted:Fingers crossed on my phaetus dragon I ordered overseas a week ago. They confirmed my order but haven't shipped it. Hoping I got in before they started dealing with the copyright dispute over it... Good luck. I snagged one a few weeks ago and I'm very happy with it.
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# ¿ May 1, 2021 17:51 |
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2024 13:10 |
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Dunno about the States, but Costco in Canada sells 4 packs of 500 ml bottles of 99%.
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# ¿ May 4, 2021 17:36 |