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What kind of nozzle/hot-end are you using when doing that?
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Nov 16, 2017 22:41
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I'm far from a materials expert, but could it be possible that the pigment is affecting the thermal properties of the plastic, causing adhesion to be lost? Have you tried going slightly hotter (or cooler too, I guess) from your normal temp to see if that affects anything?
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Nov 16, 2017 23:23
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biracial bear for uncut posted:"We have literally published source files for multiple machines we sell and are still working on the bugs for our remaining machines, why did you put us on that list." - Creality I'm all for a good Twitter fight, but the GPL doesn't have any kind of provision about how bug free your code must be before you publish your enhancements. If you benefit from GPL code, you must publish your changes to that GPL code when you distribute compiled binaries.
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Aug 29, 2018 11:33
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Christmas bonus came in, I'm now in the market for a resin-based printer for D&D minis. I've been researching the Peopoly Moai, Anycubic Photon, and Wanhao D7. Are there any other well-reviews resin-based printers I should look at? The Form2 is out of my price range unfortunately.
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Dec 19, 2018 20:04
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The designs being open source says nothing about the quality of the manufacturing that goes into those designs. When you pay for E3D, you're paying for the manufacturing and supply chain certainty. That being said, I've never used a knockoff v6 so I don't know how they compare.
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Feb 5, 2019 18:55
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This is a very timely discussion for me, as I just purchased a used Form 2. Their (stupidly expensive) resin just showed up this morning, so I was planning on doing my first print today. I've heard the Formlabs resin doesn't smell as terrible as other resins, but that remains to be seen.
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Jun 11, 2019 20:23
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Trip report on the used Form 2: The hardest part about getting this thing to print was connecting it to the right wifi network. After leveling the machine (which was super simple), there was no other "calibration"-type stuff required. The detail is incredible, and post-processing wasn't that big of a pain. Everything went well getting the part off the build plate into the wash chamber, but I can see how it would be a major pain to clean if I had missed the chamber. I actually don't smell the resin at all, but that may mean that it has already destroyed my nasal membranes. Isopropyl is definitely more obnoxious than the formlabs resin, at least for the grey stuff. I'll take a look at ResinAway. What do y'all do to dispose of your IPA once it's dissolved a lot of resin? All the online guides I can find just say "check your local guidelines", but I'm not even sure what that means. The guy I bought this from said he just pours it down his sink, but I'm pretty sure that's an extremely bad and uncool thing to do.
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Jun 12, 2019 13:16
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The larger the bed gets, the more mass you're flinging around at high speed, which will cause artifacts or you'll need to have lower acceleration values. For that reason, I've always thought the CoreXY design is better for larger-format printers.
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Jun 21, 2019 16:54
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AgentCow007 posted:And then there's the YouTube recommended "Design Prototype Test" who licks his resin prints clean to cure them Holy poo poo. That has to be a joke, right?
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Jul 19, 2019 23:45
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That is a gorgeous printer.
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Jul 25, 2019 17:08
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Anecdotally, my Inland PETG (which I believe is actually eSun, but can't confirm that) printed noticeably better after I dehydrated it for a few hours. The surface texture was improved, as was stringing. This is in Houston, TX where it's > 90% humidity for most of the year, so it may be different in dryer climates.
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Aug 20, 2019 02:19
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There are a lot of factors that can go into that. In my experience (on my mk3), one reason that curling happens is because I forgot to clean my bed with 99% isopropyl alcohol before the print. It also seems to happen more often on the powder coated sheet. It can also mean your first layer didn't go down perfectly, meaning your nozzle was slightly too close or too far from the bed when it started. Some people add little cylinders around the corners of their prints to act as a sort of raft if it's a chronic issue or only affects one particular model, but that's more treating a symptom rather than finding the actual cause in my opinion. Based on your post history, you seem to be using a glass bed. If you have the ability to check for hot/cold spots on the bed (IR thermometer or an IR camera of some kind), you may find the contact with the glass isn't as flush as you think. Also are you using hairspray or glue stick? Also what material are we talking about? Zorro KingOfEngland fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Nov 17, 2019 |
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Nov 17, 2019 03:06
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Do you have some means to dehydrate the filament? I've seen brittleness caused by wet filament. No idea about the terrible bridging though.
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May 15, 2020 02:14
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I live on the gulf coast of the US where it's 400% humidity most of the year, and a food dehydrator like this one has been a great addition to my workshop for that same purpose. If the oven method works for you, I would recommend one so you don't have to heat up your oven every time you need to dry out a roll.
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Jun 16, 2020 14:17
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I originally bought my first printer (Maker Select Plus) for D&D terrain and minis, and also because I just wanted to tinker with something. Along the way, I've used my printer for everything from fixing my daughter's broken toys or lost parts to creating custom cup holders for my patio furniture to creating classroom supplies for local teachers, as well as a ton of terrain and minis (though I also purchased a resin printer which has taken over primary mini duties). The hobby is as deep as you want to make it. Side note: I used an original Prusa for most of the things listed above.
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Aug 27, 2020 19:51
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Big Mean Jerk posted:The real fun for 3D printers comes when you start designing your own stuff. Even if it’s just messing around in Tinkercad to start with. The first time you design a part from scratch that clicks right into place is the most satisfying feeling in the world
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Aug 27, 2020 21:16
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Well poo poo. My printer was heating up to print some PLA, but was taking a lot longer than usual. Long story short I jiggled the wire harness and the printer read 470 degrees before beeping at me and turning off with a maxtemp error. Obviously I need to replace the thermistor, but is there anything else in the hot end I should check that may have been damaged due to this? Based on the smell of burning plastic, I believe it actually did hit 470 (or at least high enough to scorch the PLA that leaked out). 24V genuine E3D v6 if that matters.
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Oct 20, 2020 19:23
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I would have thought thermal runaway would have kicked in, but perhaps the failure mode of the thermistor was such that it was reading the temp as raising enough to not trigger it. This is an original prusa mk3. I haven't checked but I'm pretty sure the stock firmware (which I am running) has that enabled.
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Oct 20, 2020 20:38
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I finally got around to checking out my hotend after the 500 degree incident. PTFE looked fine. I changed the thermistor out and did two PID tunes (the first one looked a little choppy after I plugged in the calculated values). I'll be doing a test print today to make sure everything survives motion. However during this I realized I must have had material leaking out of the top of the heater block because there's a bit of material sandwiched between the heatsink and the block. Any easy way to clean that stuff off? Is it hurting anything being on there? I know it's probably caused by an under tightened nozzle, so I'll check that out too.
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Oct 26, 2020 13:43
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I don't have a great answer for you, but in situations where things are too big for my printer, I usually just split it up into smaller chunks and post-process them. Typically this results in less material used for supports, as well as better orientation of surfaces. However, I understand that's not for every part.
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Oct 27, 2020 18:50
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Listerine posted:What's the name of the larger volume printer that Prusa is allegedly producing? I want to find the thread where they talk about it but can't remember what it was called to do a proper search. Prusa XL maybe? I don't know if they've officially named it yet, but I recall that name getting used during the announcement
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Oct 29, 2020 02:24
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I like to print Nylon filament on occasion, but I hate having to dehydrate it before each use. Are any of those pre-made dry boxes worth the price of admission? I recently got a $150 Amazon credit and I'm thinking of picking one up. I've already got a food dehydrator set up exclusively for filament.
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Dec 26, 2020 16:17
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I've been toying with the idea of replacing my v6 hotend with a mosquito for easy nozzle changes. Is the price of admission worth it? Are there any other hotend alternatives with the simple nozzle change feature? I hate changing my v6 nozzle because I always feel like I'm going to break the whole thing every time I do it.
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Apr 7, 2021 13:29
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My Anycubic Wash & Cure Plus just came in. It's packed incredibly well with foam everywhere. In wash mode, it's ridiculously powerful. I was afraid the mini I printed was going to be chipped, but it looks like it escaped OK after 6 minutes of wash. Unless I'm missing something, there's no way to hook the basket onto the container they give you in order to let the model air dry (like the manual suggests). I'll probably have to print something or figure something else out. Also the container holds 8L of IPA. I only had 4L on hand, and I think I'll probably put another 1 or 2L in just so the impeller has to do more work. There's definitely some UV light bleed under the cover when curing (I can see some purple light where the cover meets the unit). Not sure if I can fix that or even have to. I have a Form 2, so I'm using the Formlabs suggestion of curing times (30 minutes) which is way more time than the manual suggests, which is 2 minutes. I'll have to figure out what works best. All in all, for $180 this was definitely a good buy. For $250 it's still probably a good buy simply because it automates what was previously a very annoying portion of my workflow, plus it looks a lot nicer on my workbench than my previous bucket-based solution.
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Apr 30, 2021 20:55
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Deviant posted:my friend wanted a ganondorf sword It's beautiful. How much does that thing weigh?
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May 5, 2021 03:14
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Sockser posted:So, I think I've had this caused by the number of top/bottom layers setting. I usually solve it by doing a modifier for that area (since you probably don't want to turn off top layers everywhere).
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May 7, 2021 01:13
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Deviant posted:Can I leave an un washed, uncured build on the plate safely? For example, if I know it's going to finish while I'm out doing something? I can't see why not, but this is all new chemistry. I have left a print on my form 2's build plate for months with no ill effects on neither the printer nor the print. A few hours will be fine.
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May 13, 2021 03:10
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I usually quote 10x material cost, so $45 isn't super unreasonable for a part of that size, doubly so if it's some fancy nylon.
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May 16, 2021 16:12
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Marsupial Ape posted:Edit: ok, real talk: which printer am I least likely to become incredibly frustrated with and toss across the room? None of them. None of them will give you this, but the closest would be the Prusa.
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May 17, 2021 07:57
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I've just been using PETG, but I think ASA is technically the better choice due to UV stability.
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May 27, 2021 15:40
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If you happen to be part of the blessed few of us who have a microcenter nearby, they have a 15 day return policy on 3d printers https://community.microcenter.com/kb/articles/28-what-is-the-return-policy
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May 27, 2021 22:00
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Bucnasti posted:What's a good primer to use on resin prints? I don't have an airbrush, but the only rattlecan primer I've had trouble with was Rustoleum, which caked on slightly too thick and had a tendency to put out globules instead of a stream when doing a zenithal pass. Every other brand I've tried has been adequate. I usually just use Krylon. I'd suggest asking the mini painting thread, but it looks like you're already active over there.
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May 30, 2021 18:06
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I played with Klipper for a few days on my i3 mk3. It has some extremely promising features, but ultimately my conclusion was that the downsides outweigh the benefits. Everything I tried was like 80% of the way supported. For example, setting the z-probe offset requires using a sheet of paper to test for spacing to the bed in TYOL 2021, but as far as I can tell there is no way to adjust the offset during a print to just "do it live". In general, it worked well enough, and the ability to configure the firmware on the fly is great. The problem is that you should really only need to configure the firmware a handful of times, so in practice it doesn't really add much to the experience if someone in the community has already created a setup that gets you printing. The final nail in the coffin for me was I realized I was spending so much time getting my printer to feature parity with the regular firmware that I just gave up. Springsteel sheet profiles were a big one. All of this may be different for a non-Prusa printer. It was just my experience with the Prusa ecosystem vs Klipper. Zorro KingOfEngland fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Jun 8, 2021 |
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Jun 8, 2021 17:50
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Prusa announced a refresh to their SLA printer, the SL1S. For $2000 you get a printer with a 2k screen that prints a bit faster than their old one. It's a weird market segment to be targeting. Too expensive for hobbyists, but not supported well enough for the pro segment, who will be going with formlabs. I'm sure the rest of the machine is great, but I don't think speed has ever been a major complaint of SLA printing. I've been in the market to switch from my Form 2 to something a bit cheaper to run, and while I love me some Prusa I think I'll be giving this one a pass.
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Jun 18, 2021 12:59
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Also Formlabs resin costs $150 per liter and their tanks cost $100. You cannot use any other brand of resin lest you void your warranty (which is like 95% the reason to own a Formlabs printer in the first place). I have never had a print failure on my Form 2, but the thing is just really expensive to run. For what it's worth, I was looking at switching to that 8k once the early adopter bugs get ironed out.
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Jun 18, 2021 16:29
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Is the photon mono x the most recent/highest resolution anycubic resin printer? Prime Day has it for $530, thinking of snagging one.
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Jun 21, 2021 12:36
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InternetJunky posted:If you do get one make sure you get a screen protector for it! Got any recommendations? Or just any old screen protector that I cut to size?
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Jun 21, 2021 16:39
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The traditional way to normalize adhesion on a surface would be glue stick, hairspray with acrylates like Aquanet, or Windex. Of those, Windex is probably the one I would go with because I hate dealing with glue residue.
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Jun 23, 2021 19:38
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Mono x arrived. Very quick setup. I used a single ipad air screen protector over the whole screen assembly and leveled the plate straight onto the fep. I was not expecting exactly how weird smelling this resin would be compared to the formlabs stuff. I bought siraya sculpt and Blu, intending to do a 50/50 mix for D&D minis. I printed the test print in 100% sculpt because I'd read that Blu is a bit hard to work with. My heated chamber stuff will get here today so hopefully I will get to try it soon. One thing that's confusing to me is that sirayas post processing instructions say not to completely submerge the part in IPA for longer than 30 seconds. Any idea why that might be?
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Jun 26, 2021 12:25
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InternetJunky posted:30 seconds? I leave my prints in 70% IPA for around an hour before rising them off. Yeah, the only reason it's so jarring to me is the formlabs recommendations are up to 20 minutes for some of their resins and I'm pretty sure they say there's no harm in washing for longer. I'll chalk it up to differences between resins though, I understand not all resins are engineered to the degree the formlabs ones are. 5 minutes, final offer.
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Jun 26, 2021 15:09
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