|
I bought a Robo 3D R1 before thinking to look for this thread, did I gently caress up? Amazon had them for $800 and I thought the build dimensions and the all-metal extruder tip were good selling points. EDIT: I printed a whistle and a spool holder that fits over the top of the printer with the sample material and will be printing the Tower of Pi this evening out of T-glase (after spending a few prints earlier this week on making little buttons and calibration circles with the material until I got the settings right). EDIT #2: T-Glase settings (using the Matter Control software that came with the printer only with this material, for some reason Simplify 3D can't handle T-glase settings)! Extruder temp = 228 Bed Temp = 62, no tape or hairspray; T-glase seems to hop right off of it as layers build up but sticks to the heated glass for some weird reason. Speed = 15mm/s for all moves (perimeter, infill, etc.) 1st Layer thickness = .1mm All other layer thicknesses = .15mm Extruder diameter setting = .5mm (actual is .4mm), multiplier set at 1.1 100% infill if doing something complex, otherwise check the Vase/Spiral Vase feature and let it run. <--still testing this setting to see if it actually accomplishes anything. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Apr 24, 2015 |
#
¿
Apr 24, 2015 21:30
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 06:37 |
|
|
MickRaider posted:Holy crap 15mm/s is insanely slow. You shouldn't have issues at 60mm/s with the robo. The manufacturer's page gives a print range of 15mm-30mm for T-Glase, so I started off slow until I've got a few prints done. This isn't PLA or ABS, man. meatpimp posted:Davinci 1.0a showed up yesterday. Flashed repetier firmware with no issues. Took a little bit to get the configurations close, had some slicer numbers wrong, but last print of yesterday was nearly perfect. 20mm cube that's nearly spot-on dimensionally, is nice and firm with only a little bit of a saggy bottom. Depends on the filament you're after. Everywhere I've looked has had basically the same price for the same filament (Amazon.com, Matterhackers, that Global sample site, etc.). I've got some PET+ coming in some time next week for some actual models I'm going to print (water-phobic and "engineering grade" supposedly, we'll see).
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2015 15:33
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Just looking for straight ABS, is there a difference in brand, or is it just a "buy on price" type of product? Yeah, the quality between brands can be pretty wide open, though I haven't really noticed any weird high prices for quality. Usually makes a difference of about $5-$10 for a spool. There is some no-scent ABS at MakerGeeks that looks interesting that I'm thinking about getting, but the colors are limited (if you don't care about the smell, there's all kinds of cool stuff there). http://www.makergeeks.com/abs3dprfi.html EDIT: Glow in the Dark filament looks like it'd be neat for loving around with stuff (same for the black-light filament).
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2015 20:57
|
|
|
Kazy posted:I just wish spools had a consistent inner diameter. I have a couple of spools I can't use because the ID is like .75" Probably won't help for your printer, but I made two of these (the "longer.stl" file) for my printer and it's pretty great. Seems like it'll hold pretty much any spool size I put on it.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2015 23:46
|
|
|
kitten smoothie posted:Without the ABS-esque warping does this also mean that the shrinkage characteristics will be closer to what you get from PLA? Supposed to print similar to PLA (at ABS temperatures), but be a water-phobic material that won't absorb moisture. MadeSolid's version of the material claims to have Zero warping, No fumes, PLA-like adhesion to print surfaces. MatterHackers has a write-up about where they sell it here. https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament/black-pet-175mm There are other colors, that's just the first page I found.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2015 22:24
|
|
|
Okay, so this Tower of Pi thing just does not want to print in T-Glase. It'll get the base down, but then the filament keeps separating inside the extruder and the printer just runs around in the air for a while until I notice that it's not printing and cancel the print. I've got some Pi coasters, but the full tower just isn't happening. I've printed three goofy little vase prints with this material no problem, but they're relatively quick prints that only take about an hour (small objects). Anybody here have any ideas? I'm thinking when my PET+ comes in I'll just switch materials and make it out of that, but it would've been neat to have a transparent one. EDIT: Okay, I'm officially a fan of MadeSolid materials, they put the recommended temps and speeds right on the label on the spool. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Apr 28, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2015 15:51
|
|
|
Cockmaster posted:Has anyone here ever worked with nylon? I'm looking for some nylon filament for printing bushings. Is there a particularly good brand of filament for that? What are you actually trying to do? I'd think for bushings something like PET+ would be better for actual usage (low warp, moisture-phobic, stronger, etc.)
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2015 20:41
|
|
|
insta posted:Except PET is super sticky vs. Nylon... There is always good old ABS, or the ABS variants, with a post-print sanding/smoothing/wipe-down with something to smooth it up.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2015 20:54
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Just buy a home next door to McMaster-Carr HQ. Heaven knows that's what *I* would do. McMaster-Carr is the best thing ever for this kind of stuff, really. Especially with the 3d part files that you can save and convert to STL files for the stuff you don't want to buy outright.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2015 01:06
|
|
|
Apparently the makers of the Robo 3D R1 showed off some printer capable of printing a cubic meter on it's print capacity. But they want $10,000 for it. 
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2015 17:56
|
|
|
Apparently, some people aren't satisfied just printing things with their 3D printers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5atWK_hKww
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2015 14:14
|
|
|
insta posted:Disregard all of those get an M2. Get a Robo 3D R1 and order the E3D nozzles to experiment with out of the money saved buying the Robo instead of the M2 (the E3D nozzles will fit on the hotend the Robo uses for whatever reason without having to buy an actual E3D hotend). Then download and setup Cura or buy a Simplify 3D license and use that for the Robo instead (the latter software is great for ABS and PLA on the Robo, everything is pre-configured in the settings and it does support material better than Cura or the MatterControl software that comes with the Robo).
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2015 03:37
|
|
|
Yeah, you've got the wrong manufacturer there. The folks that make the Robo3d have the most helpful user forums I've run across.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2015 15:39
|
|
|
That's weird, because the one on the left looks better for some reason. Anybody here done any printing with ProtoPasta's Stainless Steel filament? I'm experimenting with it and getting frustrated with the filament snapping inside the extruder an hour into the print using their recommended temperatures/speeds (basically separating at the extruder gear and not printing any more while the printer carries on like nothing is wrong). I'll do calibration cubes and everything will be fine, but print something that takes longer than that and it goes to hell.
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2015 16:38
|
|
|
IndianaZoidberg posted:I have been using Inventor for the last 6 months or so and while I am no expert, I picked it up quite fast. Lynda.com has some nice tutorials for Inventor that helped me a ton...and my previous AutoCAD experience. This, except for Solidworks instead of Autodesk's stuff, right down to the Lynda.com tutorial videos and exercise files (which is all a hell of a lot cheaper than taking the certification classes for what I'm doing).
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2015 14:12
|
|
|
Printed these this weekend: Obligatory nerd dragon statue  And the 3D Benchy thing in Woodlay. It floats!  Right now printing a tool holder to mount on the side of the printer instead of having a pile of loose stuff laying around on the work table.
|
|
#
¿
May 18, 2015 01:32
|
|
|
Hate to double-post, but figured these would be worth sharing (assuming they haven't already been posted here). There's a web-app that will take any image you upload and attempt to convert it into a Lithophane STL file here: http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/ And another app that does similar stuff, but takes a different approach by extruding darker colors and leaving light colors as the base layer: https://www.mixeelabs.com/mixeepopper They seem to have a little trouble in Chrome when you crank up the detail settings or make a large enough object when re-scaling, but I'm going to attempt a T-glase Lithophane some time this weekend and see how it works out.
|
|
#
¿
May 18, 2015 17:04
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:Guys, someone recently gave me a Robo 3D R1, and I'm having print quality issues. Anyone messed with these before? It's what I'm using, but I've replaced the hot end on mine with the e3d volcano. a lot of the issues I had early on were solved by printing a counterweight box for the x axis and filling it with coins (& making sure the x axis was running parallel to the bed). What exactly are the print quality issues you're having? Can you post an example pic?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2015 02:19
|
|
|
If you've got it fixed, that's great. Here's what I printed last night. Well, yesterday evening, this took about an hour.  Right now my printer is doing the base of a model T-rex skull display.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2015 17:17
|
|
|
I suddenly feel a lot less bad about the times my nozzle would clog and stop the printer, or the air conditioner coming on would trip the "Temp Fall Error" and halt a print.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 5, 2015 19:50
|
|
|
Soggy Chips posted:With any luck, by the end of tomorrow I'll have my M3D Micro that I impulse backed over a year ago. It will be my first stab at 3D printing. It's not so much that ABS is hard as it is that the material likes to shrink as it cools off. If your printer has an enclosure it makes things easier since you can control the rate of cooldown to minimize the shrinkage. But yeah, PLA is basically the beginner material because it is so easy to print. Print a few calibration cubes at the different detail settings so you can get an idea of how quickly your printer can do things and then go nuts printing a few actual parts. Invest in a few cans of Aqua Net hair spray (unscented) for printing in PLA if you have a glass table though. Some people like to use blue masking tape, but a good layer of that hair spray has worked a hell of a lot better than masking tape for me (best part is that after a few applications you can sometimes get multiple prints off the multi-layer hairspray before having to reapply, where the tape usually tears up when you take the print off of it). Cleanup is as easy as a damp rag. If your table is textured, PLA should print straight on it. A lot of people balk at the price tag, but look into Simplify3D because it really is the best 3d Printing slicer software I've used. Support material that it generates pops right off of the main print with very seldom having to do any actual post-processing/sanding/polishing to clean up the main part (and that time saved alone makes up for the price of that software on intricate prints). EDIT: Here are some things I recently did.  This one still needs a little post-processing on the label ink.  And a lithophane of my parents' dog, which was neat.  Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Jun 8, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2015 12:38
|
|
|
This seems like a pretty decent deal, given the price for the same printer on Amazon (even with the extortion-level shipping charges). http://www.uscutter.com/Leapfrog-Cr..._eid=2cceaa35e4
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2015 13:53
|
|
|
I'm planning to use my current 3D printer to help build this: https://plus.google.com/communities/108524206628971601859 Actual files for the designwork are here: https://github.com/eclsnowman/Lien3D_Eustathios_Spider Because using a 3d printer to build an even bigger 3d printer just scratches an odd itch for me.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2015 15:08
|
|
|
Doubleposting to share this octoprint app I found for android devices. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mariogrip.octoprint
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2015 22:37
|
|
|
Aquanet, or go nuts and get a 10" x 10" Printinz Plate and put it on there and never have to do bed prep again (just make sure not to overheat the plate or you'll pry at the part forever to peel it back off of the bed).
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2015 15:29
|
|
|
Sounds to me like the Z-axis nuts may be slightly out of level with the bed or something (or the bed may not be seated just right on the magnets), if the first layer adhesion is varying that wildly. Also, are you using the crap beginner Matter Control software (that probably puts more people off 3D printing than anything else) or Cura/Repetier Host?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 19, 2015 18:26
|
|
|
Cura is actually one of the better free slicer softwares out there, and really isn't that difficult to set up (there is a thread on how to do it for the Robo, though). Also, you may need to update the Robo's Firmware in case the one you got had an older version loaded on it for some reason.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 19, 2015 20:19
|
|
|
I've been using Simplify3D for the actual printing side of things, myself. Yeah, it was $150, but I get updates for as long as they do them and so far all of the "default" settings for my printer have been spot-on for everything from quality to support material generation and infills. EDIT: For generating G-code and running it from the LCD controller/SD card on my printer. I haven't tried running the printer directly from the software. EDIT 2: I did disable the "wait for temps to be achieved before running program" option and adjusted my start and end G-code so that the heated nozzle would stop damaging my hairspray/tape/build plates that are sensitive to how hot the nozzle gets for some materials. Here is my starting G-code: code:code:Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Jun 26, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2015 15:32
|
|
|
insta posted:Don't run your auto leveler until everything is at temp. Hotends and heated beds change shape as they heat up. If you're using things like a Printinz Plate or certain other bed adhesives, autoleveling while the hotend is heated up can mess up the surface of the plate. I do know that a heated up nozzle will put little melted divots into a Printinz Plate during auto-level, which fucks the auto-level up anyway and has it going much too far down on the 1st layer. Karthe posted:Speaking of which, is there a way to make OctoPrint wait until both the bed and hotend have come to the set temperature before running the pre-print gcode? I know OctoPrint knows to wait for both to heat up, but it chooses to wait for things to heat up after the pre-print gcode has run. It makes me nervous that the hotend is sitting so close to the tape until it's ready to print. Add a line to your pre-print g-code to raise the nozzle up off of the bed whatever distance you're comfortable with after it does the auto-level/axis homing.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2015 20:04
|
|
|
90% sure all of the settings flow thru to the GCode being generated, since that is what the printer reads. Things like layer height, temps, paths to extrude? All GCode. Except the code is literal point to point movement instructions and conditions instead of a list of settings.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2015 11:31
|
|
|
PrintedSolid.com is willing to "demo" slicing something for you with S3D so you can take the resulting file and print it compared to a slice run where you did it with whatever you currently use (mainly hoping that you'll buy S3D from them). Not the same as a real demo, but probably the closest you'll get in the near future because making the demo version hard to crack is apparently a ton of work (hell, even the Solidworks developers can't do it reliably).
|
|
#
¿
Jul 7, 2015 16:55
|
|
|
Considering how PLA has a glass-transition temp of about 60-65C, you should probably dial back to around 55C if you have to have a heated bed running the whole time and put a layer of AquaNet hair spray down before starting the program. The heated layer of hair spray will turn into the best PLA adhesive, and the only real trick to that is spraying it on semi-evenly. Cleanup is as easy as some water and a dish-cloth as well (though it may take several passes to really get all of the residue off if cleaning off for applying a different adhesive for ABS/some other material). This is kind of why I fell in love with PET+. I can print that without anything at all on my heated glass bed by having the bed at 75-80C and the nozzle at 245-255C. Probably the easiest material to print with that I've tried. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jul 7, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Jul 7, 2015 20:17
|
|
|
So I did this last night. Here is the source image:  Kind of rough, but that was with the 1mm Volcano nozzle just to see what it would look like. If the Glowfill actually glows tonight after charging in the sunlight from the window it's in, I'll have a third pic to post.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2015 20:36
|
|
|
What kind of filament is it? Just "textured filament" seems a little odd.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2015 21:44
|
|
|
Anybody got $4k to blow? http://zmorph3d.com/produkt/zmorph-2-0-full-set-all-accessories-included/
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2015 15:22
|
|
|
insta posted:Tell me why that's better than 22 of these things: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80707__Mini_Fabrikator_3D_Printer_by_Tiny_Boy_Transparent_US_110V.html You can mount a laser engraver, milling bit, or ceramics extruder on it. The kit I linked came with all of the tool heads.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2015 16:32
|
|
|
insta posted:I was mostly looking for an excuse to link the new Hobbyking $180 printer At least they're probably shipping, unlike the Tiko.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2015 19:21
|
|
|
mewse posted:YES I think this is what I was looking for, thank you so much, stupid high school physics You can usually lower that in the firmware on the machine itself. Look for Default Acceleration and Max Acceleration values in Arduino, adjust and upload to the machine, then try a calibration cube or something to see if it made things better. The slicer has nothing to do with that part. I've set that around 500mm/s/s for X, Y and E on my Robo because 3000mm/s/s default and 10000mm/s/s max was loving insane when pushing a lot of short, rapid direction changes.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2015 20:03
|
|
|
Did anyone see the homemade ceramic 3D printing delta? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOqAxePyJBg
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2015 20:04
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 06:37 |
|
|
mewse posted:I am kinda hosed because I built my printer from an aliexpress prusa kit and the controller board is a generic chinese thing running Marlin firmware. I can control it with repetier-host but I'm very wary of flashing firmware to it. Marlin boards are surprisingly durable for firmware flashing. You have to really gently caress up to ruin an Arduino RAMPS board (and I'm talking physical over-voltage). Use the actual software found here: https://github.com/open3dengineering/Prusa-i3/tree/master/Firmware/Marlin And you should be good to go. Instructions are on the GitHub post. On a note about designing bigger printers, someone pointed this monstrosity out to me this afternoon. http://www.cosineadditive.com/am1/
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2015 21:11
|
|