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I'm about to dive in to 3d printing but wanted to sanity check first. It seems like the Photon or Mars are the go to resin printers for mini printing. Someone I know has a filament printer that requires it's own proprietary slicer and DRM chipped filament. I don't think you can really drm resin, but those are the biggest traps I want to avoid. The Photon is on sale right now, but I'd def pay a premium elsewhere if anycubic pulled that.
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Jan 4, 2020 14:09
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 00:22 |
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Acid Reflux posted:None of the popular consumer resin printers have any kind of DRM garbage, so you're free to use any compatible resin that's out there. armorer posted:And the photon S supposedly makes the photon more mars-like, although it's unclear if people think it's worth the price difference If that's the case, shopping around a bit more there's a Mars bundle at a similar price point than the Photon that's not though amazon. Even ignoring the addons, its only like a 10 bucks difference
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Jan 4, 2020 16:33
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I got a resin printer. As expected, my first few prints haven't gone well. Didn't level the bed, didn't do supports right, too cold, but it's a learning process. Except this one, I don't know why this print failed like this. This was all the resin in the tank, and I'm pretty bummed about that!  Saved file in slicer vs output print. How did I screw up to print this badly? This was a lot of resin to waste and I'd really like to not do that again.
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Jan 18, 2020 14:14
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Bodanarko posted:Did you use photon file validator? Yes. In this case I went ChiTuBox -> validator -> print. The screen shot is the validated file loaded again in ChiTuBox.
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Jan 18, 2020 15:24
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Sure enough, printing the non validated file worked perfectly fine. Part of this print was to test the validator, and I guess I did. Thanks.
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Jan 18, 2020 19:35
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Don't clean the fep film with ipa, it'll cause fogging. What's better to use for the film then? Just water?
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Feb 5, 2020 05:10
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I've been trying to nail down a reusable printed base for minis. It's interesting how hard it can be to print a flat and even surface. Changing the angle can drastically change the outcome. The top image shows the deformation on the bottom most point, where the supports were heaviest. The second image shows a side by side of two similar bases. The top was printed more horizontally than the bottom. The bottom result was much more flat.   Meanwhile, printing a more complex model with the same resin,  I'm going to try adding supports in blender. Maybe flattened but thinner supports right on the edge can pull it off.
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Mar 29, 2020 17:49
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Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:I'm not sure I understand exactly what you're trying to make here, but with most bases I'd just print it flat on the build plate. I print nearly all of my minis with their bases right on the build plate and as long as I do the supports right they come out fine. I only tilt them if they have some feature that would be really difficult to support cleanly that I can make point up. They're bases for wargame minis, but with a design on top and a slot for a metal washer for weight. I'm gonna try printing it on the built plate, and I'm going to feel real dumb if that works.
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Mar 29, 2020 23:13
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Is there a particularly good surface to hold a 3d printer? In particular resin printers. I'm getting a designated 3d space for both a resin and FDM printer and I gotta get some tables. I was originally thinking glass so any spilled resin or nasty chemicals wouldn't soak in and could be scraped off. But the last table I used was glass and I am now learning that it is not as chemically resistant as I thought. e: Unless the answer is "cheap table + finish" or "table cloth", which makes a lot more sense now that I think about it. Serenade fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jul 1, 2020 |
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Jul 1, 2020 22:05
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If you get an Ender 3 Pro with an SKR mini e3 board, take it from me: Update your firmware. 
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Jul 9, 2020 20:28
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Working with PETG, the following piece was printed with a raft and in the orientation on the left. That is, the matte side was facing up and the shiny side was facing down. Is there a way to get the bottom as smooth as the top right out the gate? Is this what Cura's "Ironing" feature does? May I iron my bottom? 
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Aug 5, 2020 15:41
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Hm, I almost always use rafts but that might be a relic from learning how to resin print first. Luckily, I need multiples of something I can use to test. All same settings (including ironing on), except: #1 is printed number side up, no raft. #2 is printed number side down, no raft. #3 is printed number side down, raft. #4 is printed number side up, raft. Yall were right: rafts were not needed for this print. The top surfaces were mostly identical (as expected). The bottom surfaces on the raft versions were definitely rougher. All top surfaces were smoother and more matte than the bottom ones.
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Aug 5, 2020 23:08
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I'm messing around with larger nozzles. Though I've upped the temp and lowered the movement speed, I'm still getting inconsistent lines with PLA, as seen in this skirt. I'm using a stock heater and assembly from an Ender 3 Pro with a 1mm nozzle. Do I just need to keep pushing more heat + less speed, or is 1mm out of my reach without something like a volcano?
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Aug 23, 2020 16:10
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Post leveling, no dice. Normally I print this PLA at 200, but bumped it to 250 for this larger nozzle.
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Aug 23, 2020 17:26
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Well, yall are correct. I leveled my bed again, this time more carefully and that did help a lot. I forgot to take a picture of it on the bed. Then I lowered the temp back to 200 and it worked much better. Sometimes the learning process is fairly roundabout and all I needed to change was the print speed going from a 0.4mm nozzle to 1mm nozzle.  There's still room for touch up like retraction, but I'm back to a baseline I can work with. Thanks!
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Aug 23, 2020 18:42
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I want to print a bunch of paint swatches. What is the ideal material for this? I want them to last a while so I can justify being comprehensive, but its not like it's going to be an archive I pass on to future generations. This is a long winded way to ask: if I print a bunch of tiny squares in PLA or PETG and store them inside, how long will they last? I doubt they'll be thin enough to store in a binder, but that's the kind of storage I expect.
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Aug 28, 2020 20:00
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I am running into PETG problems as well. After goofing around with a 1mm nozzle, I switched back to the normal sized one and not really had a successful print yet. I'm running a battery of tests to find the right configuration. My biggest issue is build plate adhesion, which I can (and have) get around by using rafts on everything, but I don't think I have to. That being said, two things I can gather about PETG: You don't need an enclosure. Of course there are situations where it can help, it's not like ABS. Some people will have problems where it will stick to a glass bed too well and damage the glass on removal. Thus painters tape is often used. edit: Ok, the second test print is working perfectly so i guess i spent all day learning I need to raise the plate temp by 5 degrees. neat Serenade fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Sep 3, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 00:42
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Sydney Bottocks posted:One thing about PETG to remember is that it doesn't need as much "squish" as PLA does, so you're actually better off with a slightly higher Z offset when printing with it. You can bump this up either manually (which is a pain since you need to redo it when you switch to a different filament type), or else check your slicer to see if there's a "Z offset" parameter and bump it up in .02mm increments until it's just right. I know Cura has that feature, not sure about PrusaSlicer though. This actually explains a few things. Last time I had build issues in this thread it's because I didn't level right. I had gone from PETG to PLA. How I leveled beds was fine for PETG but not PLA. Swapping back today, I ran into the problem again. Now I know to level PLA and PETG with different scrap papers. Dr. Fishopolis posted:Welcome to 3D printing, where the thing that works is always the dumbest. Not only adding that initial 5 degrees help, an additional 5 made it fail again and an additional 5 made it work again. I guess PETG only works on odd numbers
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Sep 3, 2020 04:38
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Nozzle chat has me shopping for nozzles. And it's made me realize when I switched to (It does also give me an excuse to finally yoink a BL Touch and PTFE tubing}
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Sep 12, 2020 16:29
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insta posted:Get a TriangleLab MicroSwiss clone with a hardened nozzle. Is it really worth jumping to a new hotend just for a new nozzle? Or is this the sort of upgrade that is better sooner rather than later and I dont know what I'm missing? And I gotta ask because it's right there, what about that 24V Ruby nozzle?
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Sep 12, 2020 23:23
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insta posted:It's worth going to an all metal hotend to go to abrasive filaments. The PTFE & soft aluminum of the Creality nozzle will quickly abrade away. The MicroSwiss clone is a drop-in replacement, and you may not even need to redo your bed leveling. Those both make sense, thanks. And if a ruby nozzle isn't on the level of "buy one and you're good for life", then yeah, not worth it. I know I'm not going to print spools and spools of CF in a row under tight timelines.
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Sep 13, 2020 00:31
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I spent the weekend upgrading my Ender 3. It worked out, but it was a comedy of errors. Probe didn't come with mount, so had to print one before changing to the new hot end. Old hot end leaked for the first time mid print. After clean up, decided to print probe mount after new hot end. The kit didn't come with a wrench and all of my metric wrenches mysteriously vanished. Managed to install it with the wrench my dremel happened to come with, but new nozzle was too short and had to adjust z stop before I could print the probe mount. The stock bowden tube ripped upon extraction. I had a replacement but had to spend a few hours digging out the shredded remains in one of the tube holders. Eventually got everything on and hooked up, and poked a running fan with a tool, right before calling it "done." I don't know what lessons there are to learn from this other than, "Make sure you have the tools you think you have. Actually go check." Now just need to fine tune new numbers and figure out which aftermarket fans to buy / print. e: Upside, printing a fan shroud gives me an excuse to get more PETG.
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Oct 12, 2020 18:39
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If bed leveling for PETG should be slightly higher than for PLA, could that be baked into printer settings? How much of a difference is really needed?
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Oct 18, 2020 23:57
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stevewm posted:My eldest cat has made a terrible discovery... the print bed IS WARM! Nice cat filled filament. Must have been rough on the hot end
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Oct 20, 2020 02:14
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Had a print fail midway though. Looks like there was a bump too thick to get thought the PTFE tube or make it though the hot end. Waiting for it to cool down to reassemble, but what would cause this? I'm printing a HeroMe set and it made it though 7 parts before failing a few hours in the 8th. It is a transparent PETG being printed at 240ºC
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Oct 26, 2020 17:59
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Rapulum_Dei posted:I wonder if anyone has tried laying up fibreglass matting and resin on a printed part and curing it. You mean like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeSOKI1I0Mo
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Oct 27, 2020 12:50
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Got my resin printer back up and rolling after many months. Is Chitubox still the only way to get a sliced file for an elegoo mars? Have we discovered better autosupport technology yet? It takes so long to manually add supports and I'm so bad at it 
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Nov 2, 2020 00:53
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Prusaslicer works, just export the model as stl with supports. That worked great. This will save a lot of time, thanks. Rough prime job and photo to highlight flaws, but a hero forge model to break it in. 
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Nov 3, 2020 14:37
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Just make one of these: I use this, it works well! PETG would squeak at just the right pitch that it could be heard the next floor over, but now it's fine.
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Nov 4, 2020 19:07
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I changed the stock ender 3 part cooling fan to one of these and it... doesn't work? If I plug that fan into the part cooling slot and turn fan speed from 0 to 100%, it doesn't work. If I plug it into the board fan slot it doesn't work. If I take a AA battery pack and hold the wires into the fan's wires, it spins. If I take the hot end fan and run the same tests, the hot end fan spins. It came with two fans and two extension cords. The behavior was consistent between the two fans and cords. It's the part cooling fan so it's not truly essential (yet), but are these faulty or am I dumb?
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Nov 10, 2020 20:23
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:^^^^ drat that's weird. I can't remember offhand (don't own one) but are you sure the board and power supply are 24v? Both new hot end and part cooling fan are labeled 24v. Assuming it's not mislabeled etc. Mr Newsman posted:Top review on your link says it's not pinned correctly for the ender3 board. That would be a pretty silly fix, but possible. Will report back when it turns out that solves everything.
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Nov 10, 2020 21:10
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Mr Newsman posted:Top review on your link says it's not pinned correctly for the ender3 board. It did turn out to be that silly of a solution. Never actually found useful information in an amazon review. Going though calibration now, its funny to go from the ender 3 stock fan to one that is too cooling at full strength.
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Nov 12, 2020 21:26
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Got everything calibrated enough and tested, moved printer to different room. It had been a while since I used that room. It's not summer anymore. Can you spot the moment when the sun set?
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Nov 14, 2020 14:45
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Don't forget to also clean your print bed, especially once you start using glues. Old glue can have worse adhesion than no glue, so then you use more glue, which gets old and has even worse adhesion... Not that I would know or anything.
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Nov 23, 2020 04:27
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I feel like messing around with metal (and wood) filled filament. Is a hardened steel nozzle enough to not worry about the wear at all, or does hardened steel just mean I worry about it less? Looks like most available filaments are brass, copper, or iron, all of which are softer than hardened steel.
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Dec 1, 2020 20:27
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insta posted:Just print regular PLA and don't care about it. In 50 years we'll all have rainbow-silk-pigment lung, but eh... The 3d printing enthusiast's skeleton will be beautiful and eternal.
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Dec 13, 2020 16:54
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Running into an issue with my Ender 3 that I don't know how to debug. The board is a BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3, the hotend is a micro swiss all metal, and there is a bootleg BL Touch. When I heat the bed to a certain point, the printer resets. There is no error on screen and none though octoprint. Just a silent reset. Sometimes, but not always, it resets as soon as the PSU fan turns on. The reset happens regardless if an rpi running octoprint is attached or not. It seems to only happen when heating the bed. Right now the hot end is idling at 250 with no issue. I haven't tested a non PETG print since noticing this issue, but that's what I'm doing next.
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Dec 27, 2020 16:19
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goddamnedtwisto posted:My first instinct is a PSU problem causing it to drop the line voltage to the board, or maybe an intermittent short opening up as it warms up? I guess the first diagnostic step is to try and establish if it happens at a specific bed temperature (which might suggest some weird software issue), then do the obvious (and easy and cheap to fix) checks that all of the connections are nice and tight, then work from there. The wires seem fine. Did more testing for more confusing results: If I manually set the bed temp to 90, it'll reset at 77. Seems to be 77 every time. BUT if I set the bed temp to 115 it can reach above 90, even if the PSU fan turns on. Further, if I let it reach above 90, then manually set the bed temp to 90, it will reset as soon as I push the button. Firmware issue? Broken bed thermistor?
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Dec 28, 2020 18:38
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I fixed(?) my bed heating issue. The back left bed spring was too tight and pinched a wire. Loosen it and it can get all the way up to 115 no problem. Tightening it while it's at a target temp will cause a reset. A proper fix will likely be to re-mount or replace the bed springs so the back left one doesn't have to be so tight.
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Dec 29, 2020 21:42
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 00:22 |
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After replacing my bed thermistor, adding new bed springs, and switching from Cura to Prusa, I was having a hard time calibrating my printer. Tried backup nozzle, checking for clogs, leveling the bed within 0.05mm, different slicer profiles, extrusion multiplier and esteps. Nothing worked Until I cleaned the extruder gear.  Still not perfect, but what a difference spending 4 seconds brushing the gear can make.
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Jan 9, 2021 21:34
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