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I just ordered an Anycubic Mega-S with plans to print terrain for Tabletop games as well as stuff for Gloomhaven and other boardgames, so I'll probably be asking lots of questions over the next few weeks! I plan to print mostly with PLA and I've got a starter roll coming as I hear the one that Anycubic ships with the printer is absolute garbage. I will be printing in a cold basement though, probably around 16c on average. Should I be planning to build an enclosure just because of the temperature issues?
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Feb 20, 2019 16:38
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 21:59 |
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I have never heard of "too much cooling" being an issue with PLA as long as the printer can melt it. I thought that I had read that cooler/damper conditions were less ideal?
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Feb 20, 2019 20:53
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Cool, good to know, thanks.
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Feb 21, 2019 01:06
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Another newbie question, PLA filament from Hatchbox seems to be the gold standard but are there other brands to try out? I see good reviews on AMZ3D and it's about $7CDN less a spool on Amazon.ca
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Feb 22, 2019 16:16
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BMan posted:Hello fellow canadian, buy "EconoFil" filaments from filaments.ca. Oh I'll check it out, thx.
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Feb 22, 2019 18:17
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Test print underway: My wife and kids are surprisingly excited and they are all surfing Thingiverse for things they want me to print for them. Going to set up an enclosure and Octoprint box as I expect I'll be running it 24/7 for a while
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Feb 25, 2019 01:14
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Any reason that Anycubic would be worse than any other brand for fire risk? I'm thinking enclosure with a fire alarm hooked to a relay that will kill the power just in case. Edit: Obligatory Benchy 
TKIY fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Feb 25, 2019 |
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Feb 25, 2019 03:54
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Yikes. Is it made of crumpled cardboard?
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Feb 25, 2019 15:04
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So what is causing my first layer to be so thin an wispy, especially in the corners: Hasn't really been an issue as the subsequent layers fill it in, but on a print last night with a wide flat base, a corner pulled up towards the ends of the print and I wonder if it's related? Anycubic Mega-S, PLA from the box (I know it's not great), .2mm layers, 60mm speed, 60 degree bed, 200 degree extruder.
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Feb 26, 2019 17:47
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Sagebrush posted:Your extruder is probably just a hair too far away from the bed. Adjust its zeroing or babystep the first layer down about a tenth of a millimeter. Will try it on another print tonight. Thanks!
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Feb 26, 2019 18:27
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Grabbed a Pi 3B+, a Webcam and a SmartPlug to setup Octoprint. Any other must-have plug-ins people are using? I was hoping to find some way to use a smoke detector to trigger a power cutoff, but I'm not seeing anyone having done that yet.
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Feb 28, 2019 20:00
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Rex is the bane of my printer. Finally got a first few layers to adhere and the tail split right at the end...
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Mar 1, 2019 20:24
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insta posted:The bed is too low in that corner. Loosen the adjustment wheel by about 1/4 turn. You are the second person to suggest that, which is odd because I was sure it was good there. Maybe a warp in the Ultrabase? I'll check the area.
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Mar 1, 2019 20:54
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Yeah I see what you mean. I'll relevel the base before my next attempt.
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Mar 2, 2019 01:50
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Snackmar posted:AMZ3D makes good regular PLA, eligle for next day Prime. CC3D makes PLA in shiny colours like silk gold, also eligible for Prime. I have some AMZ3D stuff but the spindle hole is too small to fit on my holder :/
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Mar 3, 2019 04:14
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Queen Combat posted:Thankfully you have a 3D printer and can fix that. Miracles!
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Mar 3, 2019 07:09
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I don't know much about PTEG. Does it print like PLA? Any advantages to it?
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Mar 3, 2019 18:01
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I still have a lot to learn, appreciate the details.
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Mar 3, 2019 20:59
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Releveled my bed after moving the printer and adhesion seems much better now. Didn't realize it had become so out of whack. Typically do you relevel the bed after a certain number of prints?
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Mar 4, 2019 16:56
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Much better adhesion since I leveled the bed on my Mega-S again. Giving it a good test today, the roof of this 28mm scale cottage is printing upright supported by the sides. So far so good: 
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Mar 5, 2019 19:28
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Finished this morning, 28mm scale medieval stone cottage: AMZ3D White PLA, .12mm layer height. About 24hrs print time and 60m of filament. Any advice on improvements that look obvious or does it look like I'm dialed in?
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Mar 6, 2019 14:22
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Yeah it's not terribly noticeable in person but it's definitely not smooth on the faces of the stones. I'll have to read up on how to set the belt tension, etc...
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Mar 6, 2019 15:52
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bring back old gbs posted:THERE she is. The picture illustrates how it functions, its a very simple part to model yourself too. Ah, I'll give it a shot. The Z axis is all direct drive so I imagine that's fine, but I'll give it a shot on the X and Y. PLA is probably strong enough? Edit: Checked the belts now that I'm home and they seem pretty tight. I can strum them like a guitar string and get a low note. I'll try those anyhow and see what happens. TKIY fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Mar 6, 2019 |
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Mar 6, 2019 18:29
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Copied from Reddit, looking for advice. I purchased any Anycubic Mega-S through Amazon and I've been happy with it, but at two weeks old the front bearing or stepper motor is grinding badly. Nothing is slipping yet but it's downstairs and I can hear it grinding upstairs. I love the ultrabase on the unit and the out of the box setup on it but I'm debating what to do next. Since it's Amazon I'm planning to just send it back for a refund or replacement. Now that I know a little bit more about printing and have some experience in debating the same model or something else. Ideally something with good community support would be preferable since things like slicer settings are not really available for the Anycubic. I'm printing terrain for wargames mostly but would like try figures at some point. Ideally something out of the box that doesn't need upgrades right away would be best. Should I just bite the bullet and get a Prusa mk3s? It's twice the price and then some but support and quality send to be the best. An Ender 3 or CR-10/20 seem to hit the community support angle the best but I almost always see people upgrading the steppers and bed immediately. I'm in Canada, I'd like to stay under $700 and stick with FDM for now. I don't mind assembly but ideally no soldering. I'd love some advice, thanks!
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Mar 9, 2019 22:37
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Tell them to get any of the Monoprice printers? How is community support for them? It's my post btw, just noting that I copied it here.
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Mar 9, 2019 23:58
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Golluk posted:Community support is there. The maker select and select mini were the Ender 3 of popularity, before the ender 3 came out of course. I can't really recommend the Maker select V2 though, It's really bad for the bed mosfet dieing. Adding a seperate mosfet is almost mandatory if you want the heated bed to keep working. You know I just don't want to make a half measure here again so gently caress the budget. Ordered the Prusa.
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Mar 10, 2019 06:29
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Assembling my Prusa tonight and gently caress captive nuts in plastic parts forever. Hard as hell to align and even using the 'screw pulling technique' isn't a sure fire method. I just loving rounded out the enclosure for a hex nut in the extruder body using the technique. Now I get to wait for customer service to get my email on Monday and hope I can get the part and all the nuts I already installed in it replaced.
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Mar 17, 2019 03:32
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Only issue is I still have the screw in it. If I super glue it I'll glue the screw to the nut anyhow. It rounded off during the pulling process and it's stick in there. I do have friend with printers though so maybe I can that. Are these parts printed with ABS or PLA? Edit: Dripped some super glue on there, will try and get the screw out in the morning. At this point it can't hurt to try. TKIY fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Mar 17, 2019 |
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Mar 17, 2019 05:12
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Didn't cross thread, the nut just tore up the plastic as it was being pulled in and then rounded it out. I can drill out the screw I guess. Have to see if there is a spare 20mm screw in the bag. Super glue didn't work.
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Mar 17, 2019 15:41
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Yeah I'm getting a new part shipped out from Voxel. Apparently it's not an uncommon occurrence. They just needed a photo of the part to make sure the right one was sent out. As for cross threading, I'm sure it's entirely possible but I didn't think I applied enough force to cross thread the nut. Maybe I did. I'm not saying it's impossible.
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Mar 17, 2019 21:48
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Finally got the replacement extruder body for my MK3S last night, and spent four hours finishing my build. Ran off Benchy and the difference between the Mega-S and the Prusa is amazing. So glad I bit the bullet and upgraded. Printer is quiet as hell too.
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Mar 28, 2019 14:34
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Newbie here. Fillet?
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Mar 29, 2019 18:04
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I'm having good results with AMZ3D.
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Apr 4, 2019 20:12
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Sockser posted:Bought a roll of rainbow filament Yeah I did a yarn bowl for the wife and you need to up your infill. The filament only changes colours every 20m or so I'd guess.
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Apr 5, 2019 14:47
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My Mk3S is being a dick. Spool got stuck and couldn't feed, now the extruder is doing this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGpJZeeZmtY Jam? Stripped Bondtech gear?
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Apr 20, 2019 23:26
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Just crank the temp and push filament in?
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Apr 21, 2019 00:15
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duffmensch posted:Can you manually push filament through? It almost sounds like a jam in the video Good call, I'm new to all this stuff so I wasn't sure what I was dealing with. Had to do two cold pulls and adjust the idler tendon but it seems to be running now.
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Apr 21, 2019 01:49
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NeurosisHead posted:Check the grub screw on the bondtech gear for the extruder motor as well. I don't know how but it seems like that thing manages to get loose every time I have a feed related problem. Seems like it's okay but I'll check it after this next print job. I think I had the idler way way overtightened before.
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Apr 21, 2019 02:10
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Grey Hunter posted:Right, So I've changed filament, and the new on, though supposedly the same make, is much more translucent. What temp is your bed for the first layer?
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May 3, 2019 12:37
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 21:59 |
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Grey Hunter posted:60 degrees. Bump it to 70.
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May 4, 2019 14:17
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