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I need some help. My prints keep getting all wispy and junk. Doing some googling, I've tried different software, adjusting temps up and down, I've re leveled the bed, but for about half a spool, all my prints have come out looking like this:  They're all squishy and crumble apart. I'm about at the end of my rope trying to fix it.
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Jul 6, 2017 18:05
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| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 03:22 |
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There was definitely a jam. Cleared it with some unsheathed wire I've got and extruded manually until black charred stuff stopped coming out, diameter looks much better. Still having some issues on the bed. Cleaned it thoroughly with alcohol and the spatula it came with and picked up some glue stick. It was loving up pretty consistently in the same spots, so maybe I got too aggressive cleaning. Re leveled, and now I've got this going for me on the brim:  Still kinda lost. First issue in 3 months of having the thing, so it's being a bit of a bear trying to figure this one out.
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Jul 6, 2017 20:01
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Ahh gotcha, I'll get a few spare nozzles. Well while I'm at it, I'm picking up a glass bed. Anything else I should look into picking up?
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Jul 6, 2017 20:31
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I'm using PLA (is Hatchbox garbage?), I think I have found the culprit: One of those things that I hadn't noticed until I did and it looked too perfect to be out of place until I took the thing apart. How do I fix that/what's it called? The manual that came with this is less than precise. Just calls the whole thing "Mk 11 extruder". Gears are looking pretty good, if a little dusty. Teeth are still pretty sharp, though. I'll pick up some extra gears as well in case my scrub opinion is incorrect. Also taking suggestions for quality of life purchases/upgrades
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Jul 6, 2017 20:53
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I changed it in Cura, and I can't get the Prusa Slic3r fork to say anything besides "Error: attempt to print outside print area" when I try to get something from there going, so I think I'm going to have a beer, read my book, and order replacement hardware. If any Slic3r wizards are around, hints would be helpful there as well
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Jul 6, 2017 21:31
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I, one zillion percent, am not running the Teflon tube. That makes sense looking at it now. I guess I'll just be replacing that whole assembly then huh?
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Jul 6, 2017 22:19
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It took a month and quite a lot of upgrades, but I finally got my Monoprice Maker Ultimate to print PETG nicely. What an upgrade over PLA, I can't wait to get some bigger projects going with it. The Micro Swiss all metal nozzle upgrade and the retention upgrade got the extruder have made such a difference. I've never felt so pleased with my prints! I just wanted to share my little triumph with y'all.
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Nov 6, 2017 00:17
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The glass beds that I keep getting for my Monoprice Maker Ultimate keep breaking when I have a large surface area PETG print. Just part of the glass flakes off. Useful for arrowheads, not so much for my prints. Any tips? I came across an article that said to use a screen protector, but I can't find one that covers my whole bed. Any help or pointers would rule.
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Nov 16, 2017 00:03
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Dessert Rose posted:What kind of glass are you using? Borosilicate works the best for quite a few reasons. This is what I got most recently, appears to be borosilicate: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFOI2VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TYmdAb27389RQ tuyop posted:Is it sticking too hard? I think so, while my print was cooling, I could hear it cracking the glass bed. I feel like I'm right on the edge with build plate adhesion. I guess it's a risk of large surface area builds, but that's also kinda the reason I bought this printer.
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Nov 16, 2017 00:27
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tuyop posted:Put a bit of PVA glue on the glass first. Just a glue stick. It reduces adhesion. I thought it improved adhesion, I had been using it on PLA, but I'll give it a shot on PETG. biracial bear for uncut posted:The best tip I saw for it was to have an ending gcode that kept the bed heater warm until you removed the print and manually turned the bed off. How be would I go about this with Cura?
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Nov 16, 2017 05:46
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ImplicitAssembler posted:It does both. Awesome! Luckily I have tons of glue sticks left to play with!
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Nov 16, 2017 23:58
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I didn’t find out until this week that automatic bed leveling is a thing. Who knows how many hours and pounds of filament such a feature would have saved me  I think, though, that the experience with the Monoprice Maker Ultimate is that for the next printer, whether that’s in one year or two, I should be willing to shell out. It’s frustrating spending a month on one print to make sure that the settings for a new material are alright, when I kinda need to be making prototypes.
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Nov 17, 2017 23:47
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It's been a good 8 months or so with my Monoprice Maker Ultimate, but it seems like it hates PETG even after a couple of upgrades, like the Micro Swiss all metal hot end. For doing actual prototyping and not to have one as a gadget, what's the best way to go? I do need to print with PETG for thermal properties (not good enough ventilation for ABS & nylon is super pricey as far as I can tell). The ones that I've found so far are the Prusa i3 (I can hold out for the Mk 3, the extra features are nice), Lulzbot Taz V6, and Flashforge 3D Printer Creator Pro. I'd like to keep it under $1,500. I'm just real tired of loving with the Monoprice Maker Ultimate. I think I've spent more time tinkering with it than printing with it at this point and I actually need to make poo poo out of these things. Things like auto bed leveling are cool, and anything else that helps automate setup/maintenance/troubleshooting would really rule. I super duper appreciate the help!
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Dec 28, 2017 20:43
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Megabound posted:Out of those 3 machines, the Prusa hands down. The creator pro won't hold a candle to it. Nice! Are there any other machines that might be worth looking into up to that $1,500 mark? I'm not trying to spend a ton of money, but the more actual print time I can get out of my machines the better. ImplicitAssembler posted:As for prototyping, I make test prints in PLA and then the final print in Alloy910. This keeps cost reasonable and Alloy910 is the easiest nylon to print with. Oh interesting, do you use it for any electronics based stuff? The glassing temperature of PETG at 80C is really good for me, but I would be willing to look into it. Losing colors will probably be something I'll regret for personal projects, but if it means I can keep the process moving for work, I'll take it.
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Dec 28, 2017 23:14
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Does anyone have any info or resources on the Creality DLP resin printer? A colleague got one and my personal FDM printer bit the dust. We have a Prusa in the office, so picking up an SLA printer for that boosted fidelity seems pretty ideal.
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Sep 19, 2018 03:09
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Rexxed posted:Naomi Wu did a little project with it and showed setting it up. She works for Creality now so it's not an unbiased look at the printer but it seems to be similar to a lot of the recent lower cost resin printers: Thanks! Totally works as a starting point.
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Sep 19, 2018 05:06
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NeurosisHead posted:Oh man Prusa with another big announcement! Hoooooly poo poo. Okay, gonna save up for that instead of the Creality. That's a huge print area, too (400*237*225mm)
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Sep 22, 2018 18:42
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goodness posted:print area size of 120 × 68 × 150 mm Oh I'm a dingus. That's what I get for being excited before coffee.
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Sep 23, 2018 00:33
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I've had an FDM printer of one kind or another for 3 years. As my work has progressed, I've been able to get away with smaller and smaller build volumes. I needed an emergency replacement printer, so I went with an Anycubic Photon. Are there any good resources to learn resin based printing basics? I decided to run a part that got 2/3 of the way through and quit the print. There was some skin in there that I skimmed out and the part didn't look 100% right. No leaking, so no broken plastic film. I restarted the work with longer exposure times, and aside from making sure the bed is level I'm not certain if there's anything else to do. Any links or tips would be well appreciated, thanks!
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Aug 17, 2019 05:25
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Re: my getting started with the Anycubic Photon: The default settings in ChiTu Box DLP Slicer (and the one included in the USB stick in the box) are apparently real bad, even if you load in the profile for the Anycubic Photon. Changing the base layer setup to a raft and doubling the exposure times has given me something presentable. I bumped them up even a little more and I'm running a print overnight. Hopefully the thing will be good to go and I'll have dialed it in with just a handful of attempts.
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Aug 20, 2019 03:54
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Acid Reflux posted:Sorry to hear you're having a little bit of trouble, but thank you for posting these kinds of updates - my Photon will be here Thursday. Information about what's not working for you is potentially more useful to me right now than anything else. Y'know, 'cause it's all about me. These were not the most helpful. I'm calling in some backup to see what the problem might be. I'm having some wild dimensional variation, and my inkling at this stage is that my zeroing could use work and/or I'm going to have to replace my film because it either came hosed or I hosed it somewhere along the way. Could be a screen thing, too, but I wicked hope not. Could be the resin and I might borrow some from a friend. Something that is infuriating is that Z axis 0 != Home, and befucking my only available axis is really not my steeze. I think the software is designed FOR people who want to press button and receive bacon, but it's not there yet even with all their resin and settings. The spreadsheet settings are also way off from what I'm able to get working, and it's been a pain. I'm hoping my unit is strangely bothersome because I do seem to be the only person having this much trouble.
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Aug 22, 2019 01:07
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I haven't, that's very useful and not something mentioned in the reviews I had found. Thanks! I'll see how it goes tomorrow and keep the thread updated.
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Aug 22, 2019 02:30
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One other really great thing for SVGs and Fusion 360: You can import an SVG onto a face and in the "Manufacture" space use the "Engrave" function. Hit "simulate" and then you can save the engraved stock as an STL to 3D print. This would have saved me hundreds of hours on some projects last year, so hopefully it'll do the same for y'all!
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Aug 22, 2019 16:03
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Hell yeah, very glad that tip helped! Finally, I can use my powers for good.armorer posted:So this is actually quite relevant for what I need as well. I need to make some small components from clay, so my plan was to 3d print one, make a 2 part silicone mold of it, and then use that repeatedly. It would be useful for me as well if I could print a tpu mold directly. I assume it's fairly trivial in fusion 360 to make a short rectangular solid? Then I could just engrave the svg in the top of that. Yep! There are an awful lot of ways to do it. Check out basic sketches and extrusions, then with that SVG engraving on top of the rectangular prism you get you should be good to go! Don't forget to make some registration marks. Update re: Anycubic Photon: I have tightened down my FEP screws (they, like me, were shamefully loose). I also did not realize that to level the bed you need to hit Move Z > Home > Adjust > Z=0. I was just going straight to Move Z > Adjust > Z = 0. I am not a smart man. Seems to be going OK, and I'm very excited to get some more work done on there.
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Aug 22, 2019 22:39
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FINALLY getting some adequate prints out of the Photon. Replaced the FEP, tightened it a lot, learned to level correctly, changed resin, and really really slowed down movement speeds. My exposure times are kinda ridiculous, but I wanted to eliminate all the other factors one at a time. Currently coming down to 30 seconds per normal exposure layer. I think it was finally the resin, but we'll see. It'll be nice to get dimensionally stable prints out. Other fun software thing I learned for other folks who want to make dice: Rhino 3D has a plug-in that'll make polyhedra. Normally Rhino is a $1k software, but you can evaluate it for 30 days for free, make one of everything, and export your creations (as STP files for Fusion and any number of mesh/spline formats for other software) to edit as you please elsewhere.
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Aug 24, 2019 00:54
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Failson posted:The Anycubic Photon, and Monoprice Mini SLA/Duplicator 7 are both under $300. I'm liking my Photon a LOT when it works, but I'm an idiot and can't always get it to work. Rant on how I'm an idiot: I misread directions on how to level it and that took multiple frustrating days to figure out. I've been troubleshooting another issue that I think comes down to the cleaner I'm using which isn't supposed to air dry, it's supposed to get washed after every use and like what the gently caress. I've learned never to follow the YouTube people on this machinery. CNC lathes, mills, and routers? Singing. All day all week. For whatever reason I have stupid disease for 3D printers and check what YouTube tells me and it befucks my printing ability. I deep cleaned my Photon and I may even replace the FEP again for good measure. Please only use YouTube for safety tips (wear nitrile gloves) and be careful not to contaminate your vat.
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Aug 31, 2019 01:32
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Yeah, I'm definitely going to be looking at different leveling methods, but it seems like I'm getting it down. A friend and colleague runs a print farm and he's been an enormous help with his experience from a few other models. I do genuinely think contamination from solvents has been a key player. Hopefully that'll be a good refinement move after I'm back to more consistent prints.
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Aug 31, 2019 07:20
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Did you check for any non manifold edges in meshmixer or anything?
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Sep 1, 2019 02:01
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Raenir Salazar posted:I checked in 3D Builder and clicked the Fix now button; would MeshMixer catch other issues? I haven't used 3D Builder before, so I can't really say. Can't hurt to take the exported STL and check in meshmixer?
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Sep 1, 2019 02:41
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The Anycubic Photon works great out of the box with ChiTu Box DLP settings. It truly was contamination. And that pausing a print to check on it has a fair chance of completely loving it. I've got prints coming out great now. I was so ready to deal with a lot of loving around that I completely missed the possibility that it works great out of the box. Meshmixer supports are working pretty well also! I'm on my third print today with them and I get delightful snaps for the first several layers. The black Anycubic resin is awesome. It's so much easier than FDM printing in my experience (especially at the price point) that it's kinda worth all the extra post processing, even to an amateur user.
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Sep 5, 2019 01:13
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MustardFacial posted:Better source out a safe spot in your house where you can put the thing without being subjected to toxic fumes. Also get some nitrile gloves, a gas mask, an ultrasonic bath, a UV curing oven, and some safety glasses. Honestly I thought that, too, but once I got consistently good prints coming from the machine, it's practically nothing. Certainly no more hassle than removing PLA supports. It's a lot of waiting around.
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Sep 7, 2019 00:29
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Meshmixer makes some pretty Mangrove level forestry on the base of my prints, gets a little shiny in spots even after a cure. Getting into the nooks and crannies like that could be a benefit? Not necessary, just beneficial.
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Sep 7, 2019 20:15
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Strong second on that - ChiTu Box is great and has a good built in profile for the Photon. I just increased my base layer times to 100 seconds and normals to 10 seconds to be safe for my own neurotic reasons E: do your own supports on top of the auto ones.
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Sep 8, 2019 17:57
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Failson posted:Ordered the Photon on Amazon. Will give my Monoprice mini 2.0 to some friends that want to try printing. What Jassi said - meshmixer supports come off really nicely after the bath before the cure.
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Sep 13, 2019 02:28
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Synthbuttrange posted:
I've generally had better luck with cylindrical rafts (the "none" shape) than the skate shaped ones. I'm ChiTu Box, you have to manually set the geometry of light, medium, and heavy supports independently. What's your bottom exposure time? I bumped mine to 100 seconds just to be safe
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Sep 13, 2019 13:29
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Mikey Purp posted:You can also mod your photon with a heated resin vat without too much trouble if you wanted to, but the auto calibration of the SL1 is a very nice upgrade. Speaking of, after continuous issues with my Photon that were getting increasingly weird and tough to diagnose, I ended up just returning it to Amazon and getting an ePax instead. Very cool! That's going in my recommendation list for folks who want something running out of the box (and don't have the budget for a pre assembled Prusa). Thanks for that write-up!
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Sep 14, 2019 18:47
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Polyjet/Objet machines and jobs are pretty expensive, but you can do some really neat poo poo with them. They've got layered color settings, I should take a few photos at work of what they can spit out. I think the neatest thing is that they can do optically clear prints. Combine that with the colored printing and you can do some fun and useful things. I hope they mentioned some of their high temp (Ultem and PEEK) applications. Those high heat deflection materials along with metal make for some good high performance applications.
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Sep 20, 2019 02:24
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I've been really enjoying the Anycubic Photon. The community support and documentation around it has been great.
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Sep 28, 2019 18:33
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armorer posted:$220 and a small build area are totally fine for what I'd use it for. Some minis if I had it on hand, and jewelry components on the order of a few cubic centimeters max. I've had it on my stove under the hood because otherwise it's wicked smelly across the standard and ABS-like resins I've been using. I'm going to be making an enclosure for it that'll sit on the windowsill, seal, and exhaust out the window because it's driving my partner crazy. mobby_6kl posted:Same. The Photon was like $220 a week ago and I finally pulled the trigger after looking at 3d printers for years. The only real downside is the small print volume which shouldn't be an issue for you. Though obviously much more expensive printers would be even better but at the price it's hard to complain. I've got something for you, and I'll work in a kiln: https://tethon3d.com/product/ferrolite-iron-resin-500ml/ I'm fully 'gized to see if I can pick a bottle up for ???? Dice? Hood ornament buttplugs? The world is my oyster.
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Sep 28, 2019 22:31
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| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 03:22 |
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Based on the guidelines, it looks like it's still magnetic, so I imagine it's still conductive for most purposes. Seems like it's pretty much just iron metal injection molding, and plenty of MIM products are used in electrical pathways. I'm hoping I can get a client to pay for some in a project to get some time with it. The hardest part might be finding a kiln and having some separate cleaning apparatuses for it since it doesn't seem to like other resins. Checking around at some local shops and Maker spaces, some pretty cheap kilns can hit the right temp. Should be able to be powder coated or Cerakoted to seal it up to prevent rusting, too.
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Sep 29, 2019 18:11
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