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I just got an ender 5 plus in (or rather my dad did but I've been the one using it so far). It has been giving me nice prints of stuff I'd never have been able to make otherwise, but I've recently been having a problem where the printer seems to start extruding a bit early. That puts a blob of cooled plastic at the tip which doesn't stick, making the print miss thr first bit of extrusion and thrn leave a blob which will rip everything up--the last couple times I've been able to quickly rip it free and then jt was fine. The raft was missing a bit of the base but it didn't matter. I don't think I was having this problem earlier. I tried preheating the nozzle, letting it sit and wiping off what came out, and then retracting the filament by 5mm, but while it improved things a bit it still started extruding a bit before it moved into position. Anyway this is super addictive and I've been having a ton of fun with it these first couple days. I couldn't believe my first design and print worked (though thr IDs came out a bit small for some reason, was very easy to file down).
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Jul 7, 2020 20:19
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 11:35 |
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I have made a variety of camera/microscope adapters on my ender 5 plus. Getting threads sized right is a little tricky but I've eventually gotten them to work and been pretty happy with the end result. So it's going to depend on what types of parts you want to make.
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Aug 6, 2020 22:17
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Sagebrush posted:For something that needs to connect to, say, a filter ring you'll want a resin printer, because an FDM can't make threads that fine. There are some threads that might come up in photography (at least with more peculiar stuff) that likely just won't be addressed by off-the-shelf components. Last week I printed an m44x0.75 to m42x1 and an m50x0.75 external m42x1 internal adapter for my microscope--my only other option would have been having something custom machined (which isn't insanely expensive with companies like RAFcamera, but not cheap and has a long lead time). Then again this is for an application where they just have to stay vertical and aren't carrying much weight at all so ymmv. Scarodactyl fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 00:21
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My ender 5 has been doing just fine on printing custom microscope components for me. Definitely better than toy grade even though I haven't messed with dimensional calibration at all.
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Aug 12, 2020 19:15
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Point is there are tons of professional tasks that don't require the above engineering grade tolerances and for which a consumer 3d printer is more than adequate.
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Aug 12, 2020 19:42
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Let's say that mine has been perfectly sufficient within the tolerances of a Harbor Freight digital caliper used somewhat haphazardly. Being able to get something like this adapter done all in one day was really nice (m37x1female thread on one end and an 18.5mm inner diameter with set screws on the other).  I don't think I could measure those dimensions with a tape. These things are a bit too annoyingly specific to have an off the shelf solution and having a one-off made would be relatively slow and expensive. This certainly isn't something that requires insane tolerances or anything, but it's saving me money on something I'm going to sell (in addition to the savings on making stuff for my own rigs).
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Aug 12, 2020 20:16
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Call it a toy all you want, so far mine has been a money printer (it goes "vrrr vrrr vrrrrrrrrr").
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Aug 13, 2020 21:46
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Just successfully printed a male m37x0.5 thread. I am amazed thr ender 5 can do that, though I suspect this is right at the limit of what it can do.  (Making a 50 dollar new pair of microscope eyepieces work almost like ones that sell for 300 used--printing another adapter to see if they'll actually work together or if the print isn't tightly specced enough, though it feels really good). edit: printed the other one and the pair work great together. Scarodactyl fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Aug 19, 2020 |
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Aug 19, 2020 20:14
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I made a series of custom adapters to mount my dslr to my microscope so I can also freely rotate it as desired. Given the weird threads involved it would have been quite expensive to do it otherwise. More recently I made these little pedestals that I could glue beads to to hold their position during channel cutting to get a good even groove in them (customer had a very particular design in mind).    I could have done something in wood as well, but being able to just design and print exactly what I wanted in less than an hour was pretty nice.
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Aug 28, 2020 00:23
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I recenrly remembered I had picked up this cheap little lens out of a film scanner but wasn't ever able to figure out how to mount it (it has no mounting threads). But this is thr future, so one 14.5mm ID to m42x1 outer thread later:  Now I can take closeup pictures of high quality SA-themed mushrooms! 
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Aug 30, 2020 21:21
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biracial bear for uncut posted:companies that know what they are doing
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Sep 17, 2020 19:56
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Can any of the cheap cnc mills handle aluminum?
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Sep 26, 2020 20:20
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That's fair. I guess the first step will be making an mpcnc and learning some basics. At this point I wouldn't need anything super intricate in aluminum, it'd just be nice to drill precisely placed outlines and holes for adapter plates instead of doing it all by hand (though 3d printed drilling guides have helped a lot on that).
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Sep 26, 2020 21:34
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Sagebrush posted:I saw someone posting in this thread that they were able to get the M58x0.75 thread used on camera lens filters, but I question whether that was actually a true thread or more of a jam-fit.
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Oct 5, 2020 05:42
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.1mm on my ender 5
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Oct 5, 2020 07:44
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stevewm posted:My eldest cat has made a terrible discovery... the print bed IS WARM! 
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Oct 20, 2020 01:51
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Dumb question but have you tried something like aquanet? I have found it gives me such good adhesion I have trouble getting them off without moving the bed.
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Oct 21, 2020 20:20
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I'd think it would make the most sense to get a decent printer rather than one meant specifically for kids. Also seems like a great idea to get them started early (with some supervision)--I really wish these had been around when I was that age.
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Nov 9, 2020 06:14
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Kids have individual interests and personalities.
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Nov 9, 2020 06:36
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I found that aquanet had a profound effect on adhesion on my ender 5, especially on petg. I should probably clean the bed at some point, I have just been adding more layers as needed which seems very dumb but has worked well so far. Down to the last few prints for a CnC router.
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Nov 23, 2020 08:56
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NewFatMike posted:Hell yeah, MPCNC? I still can't believe how easy the Ender 5+ was to set up and use. I have so many other things I want to print once the cnc prints are done, it's amazing that I lived without this thing before.
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Nov 24, 2020 21:39
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My dad is feeling like getting a black friday resin printer. He really likes our ender 5 plus so he's leaning creality (250 with sale), max budget around 500ish. Main application would probably be printing jewelry for casting. I should probably just read the thread more, but is it worth spending more on this or will the creality probably be good enough for most basic uses? Any higher end features we'll really miss?
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Nov 26, 2020 20:45
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Doctor Zero posted:All the mono 2k screen printers are pretty similar. But if he’s willing to go up to 500 bucks he may as well get the phrozen mini 4K mono especially if he’s doing jewelry. It should be around $340.
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Nov 27, 2020 02:17
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I just had a print that seemed to lose adhesion to itself mid-print. Nice well-printed bottom that was still stuck to the build plate transitioning to spaghetti, with the edges sticking better than the middle. Anyone know what might cause that?
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Nov 28, 2020 05:53
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I thought about getting one of those ruby nozzles on a lark but at over 100 bucks they seemed a bit expensive.
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Dec 1, 2020 21:42
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I've had some odd issues with recent prints. I just did a ton of prints in PLA for a cnc machine (they said PLA which seemed odd but I'll trust them I guess) which all game out amazing. But now going back to petg I'm getting what seem like occasional issues with layers adhering to each other as well as weird solid blobs showing up beside or loosely on the print without any obvious source. I started on this huge print (which also curled badly though I think that's unrelated). 100% infill and it feels like solid plastic and seemed fine except for that top sirface (loose spaghetti brushed off to the side) but there was also that massive black nugget just sitting next to it. That top surface is easy to peel individual strings from too.  I did this remote holder next which seems perfectlt fine but had these solid blobs attached by thin strings. Still totally usable with the only surface issues being a few strings.  Anyone have any idea what I'm doing wrong? Petgy 240 nozzle temp 50 bed temp (futile attempt to avoid edge curling) .22 mm layer thickness on my ender 5. Just changed the nozzle (for another cheap brass one) because of my last printing issue.
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Dec 2, 2020 23:55
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I should just get the good nozzle.
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Dec 3, 2020 02:03
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Thanks, I will take that inro account. Come to think of it I don't think I've gone to 100% before, I always stuck at 90, so that could be an issue too. Also explains where all the extra filament came from to make the nuggets.
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Dec 3, 2020 02:43
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Hmm. My printing issues might be deeper than a bad nozzle. I bought the nozzlex but promptly lost it because of family issues distracting me, so today I thought I'd swap on another cheap brass one and just see what I could do with it. A test print clogged after the first layer, and I noticed the hot end has some big globs of filament inside it. I assume it is getting out sideways somehow but I am not sure how. I put the nozzle on and tightened it while at temperature.
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Dec 22, 2020 07:45
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So I am guessing the bowden coupler in my hot end failed, which is apparently common in enders? Seems to match symptoms. I coupdn't even get the bowden tube out, no matter how much I depressed the clamp thing it would not come out without a pair of vice grips. In the mean time my bltouch flipped down and melted its end against the heated metal so all in all not a great day. Hopefully I can just plug a new one in. Long way of asking, is there a particularly good coupler and tube I should get? I'd like to replace both couplers because the other end doesn't like to release the tube either, and the tube didn't appreciate being vicegripped.
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Dec 24, 2020 21:59
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I found aquanet hair spray worked great in getting petg to adhere to my ender 5's bed.
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Dec 31, 2020 15:32
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Replaced my bowden tube and connectors, still had issues. Was watching a print when I noticed a weird, slight jerk on the tube. Looked closer and it happened again. Looked closer yet and saw the entire hot end had wobbled a little bit which had jerked on the bowden tube. Got the fan assembly off to get a look and one of the bolts holding the hot end on was very loose, so the nozzle was able to jerk back and forth a bit at random  No wonder I was getting weird issues that none of the standard diagnostics quite covered--just an issue too stupid to be common. This motion was jamming the bowden tube repeatedly against the holder to the point the teeth were gouging it, allowing it to move out of place and leak filament too. Anyway I got it tightened and reassembled and all and my first test print was perfect. Here's hoping this actually fixes everything, got something a little more detailed going.
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Jan 5, 2021 04:53
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I don't think it was my fault, since it came preassembled and I'm pretty sure I didn't mess with that bolt. But I still feel dumb for not noticing sooner. Just finished anorher print, both are about a million times better than printing them before. What a relief, this was driving me nuts. Now I can finish designing a rotating polarizer for my microscope instead of spending 400 dollars for a used one.
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Jan 5, 2021 05:17
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SpartanIvy posted:Man, I would have loving killed for a 3D printer when I was 8. Having the ability to design and print my own legos would have been a game changer.
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Jan 21, 2021 22:09
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My wiggly layer problem came back and it turns out the other bolt on my hot end managed to loosen itself. Not sure what's up with that but hopefully loctite is the answer. It's really nice to just tighten something a bit and go back to getting perfect prints. Two more specialized microscope adapters in hand today and another currently printing.
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Feb 3, 2021 20:03
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3d printers enable turbotinkering with so many other things though, so it should even out.
Scarodactyl fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Apr 2, 2021 |
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Apr 2, 2021 04:27
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I think one thing is that a lot of people will post about printer-relevant prints in a printer-focused space. I don't want to bore you all with the various microscope adapters I've been designing and printing.
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Apr 2, 2021 21:04
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I like mine a lot. I did have to locktite the bolts holding the hot end in position but other than that it's been good.
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Apr 5, 2021 05:13
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:How does it print? Fast? Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Any aftermarket upgrades I need to worry about? Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:If you can measure it for me I'd appreciate knowing the overall size. I know it's a big boy but I'd like to know if I need to buy a whole new table for it or not. Overall it took about an hour for me to assemble, and it has eaaily paid for itself just in weird microscope adapters I've been able to easily print (though I understand not everyone has a small business/hobby with tons of opportunities to save 40 bucks here and there if only you can make your own precise mechanical adapters).
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Apr 5, 2021 08:49
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 11:35 |
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w00tmonger posted:So this layer shifting I'm getting? What am I missing? I'm getting intermittent small shifts on my x axis. Tightened belts, levelled bed etc. Is this some slicer setting I need to change or something.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:58
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