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60 Hertz Jig
May 21, 2006

Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD1F7HD

Might go with this, why reinvent the wheel when I can just buy a pickle jar? Just wish it said what the measurement between the bottom of the jar and the basket is.

I have those exact jars and it's tight - about 2mm (the strainer has feet on the bottom that sit it above the bottom of the jar)

60 Hertz Jig fucked around with this message at 01:26 on May 20, 2020

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60 Hertz Jig
May 21, 2006
This month I learned just how important even a quick and dirty enclosure is for getting not-PLA to stick and print well. I ended up with a roll of PETG by accident and had the worst time getting it to stick to the build plate/avoid becoming a stringy mess.

I read a lot of people saying to use glue stick and assumed that was on the glass bed itself (just makes a sticky mess and didn't work at all for me). Blue painters tape followed by the purple glue was the trick. At this point it's difficult to get the prints off the bed.

A polycarbonate/plywood enclosure with an open top helped the rest. I will likely close the top when I go to direct drive and gently caress around with ABS, but for now things are great.

What a fun tool! I'm a machinist by trade and used to look down on 3d printers. Tolerances/speed/surface finish/etc can't live up to a machined part, clearly :jerkbag:. Then the pandemic hit and I found myself not able to spend any more time than necessary at work; side projects are dead. Turns out I can live with this printing thing after all and I'm am idiot for assuming otherwise. This hobby is fun and I've been able to make functional poo poo for friends already.

PETG:


PLA:


Assembled (note to self to line tape better next time):


Mounted:

60 Hertz Jig
May 21, 2006

Javid posted:

What causes this kind of failure? I wasn't watching so I didn't see what happened, just came back to this. It's like the print shifted under the nozzle or something.



It's supposed to be this thing:



Printed another one slightly smaller and it worked fine :iiam:

Check your belts. I had something similar happen to my v2. I have a direct drive conversion on it and the slots that hold the belts were dead sharp (not deburred) and quickly sliced through the belts enough to slip.

I guess that leads me to a PSA for PrinterMODS direct drive kits: check for sharp edges! It's also not a very refined kit, at least for the v2.

60 Hertz Jig
May 21, 2006

Scarodactyl posted:

I think one thing is that a lot of people will post about printer-relevant prints in a printer-focused space. I don't want to bore you all with the various microscope adapters I've been designing and printing.

Please do! I think most of us enjoy seeing the myriad uses for printers.

60 Hertz Jig
May 21, 2006

Ambihelical Hexnut posted:

--
I've been running enders and CR-10s for years now entirely by SD card and have a well-sorted workflow for that, but I have no familiarity with klipper, the SKR, or running a headless printer. The last time I tried doing any raspi/octoprint stuff was like 2015/16 and I hated it but I'm ready to get my heart broken again trying to get this one going.

I just installed Klipper on my Ender 3 v2, with Raspberry Pi/Octoprint/OctoKlipper plugin. Was using stock Marlin firmware before. The install was super easy using this guide (although I'm not using BLTouch and can't vouch for that). https://www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/kj2h5r/stepbystep_guide_for_ender_3_v2_klipper_w_bltouch/.
I bet it's similar for a Voron.

Most Enders apparently cheaped out on the stepper drivers and can't run Marlin's Linear Advance. This led me to trying Klipper which has Pressure Advance (a software based approach). It was incredibly easy to tune and my prints went from having some ugly over/under extrusion in corners and transitions, to very pretty prints.

See if there are any guides for the Voron & Klipper. It's made my printing far more enjoyable.

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60 Hertz Jig
May 21, 2006

Ambrose Burnside posted:

[Ultrasonic stuff]

I'm not sure how I'll fabricate the immersion enclosure, ideally I'd mill a slot in and partially hollow out a stainless steel bar to end up with a seamless, heavy-walled 'enclosure' that just needs sealing on a single face w some epoxy or sth, but I can't mill that myself right now so we'll see.

This is really intriguing! If you're posting about this project in the electronics thread or elsewhere, you should link it here. I think this thread has enough overlap with electronics tinkerers to be interesting.

Do you have a rough sketch/idea of what your enclosure would look like? I'm a machinist and there's a chance I could whip something up at work in my spare time. Likely wouldn't have to charge you anything either - I'm just interested in what you learn about the ultrasonic devices and that would be enough for me. I've been wanting to design an ultrasonic motor/vibrator/polisher (for deburring tiny parts) since commercial products are expensive.

If this is too far off topic, feel free to DM me.

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