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Gullous posted:My buddy in college had an '03 C230 KOMPRESSOR. It kept up with my modestly fast CBR600 F2 in a rolling drag, which surprised me. I'm trying to figure out how this is possible. Were you in 6th gear at 30 mph or weigh 500 pounds or something? From a roll that bike should keep up with my E55 and leave a C230 like it's standing still. That bike traps right around 120, and a C230 probably traps 30 mph less.
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Nov 28, 2010 18:17
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b0nes posted:Wasn't there a guy here with a 4 door Merc' that was supercharged? I wonder what happened to him and the car? It was probably me or Nait. I've had my 2004 E55 for two and a half years and 50,000 miles. It currently has 113,000 on it and runs just like the day I bought it. Actually better, since it has a 180mm pulley(13-14 PSI), tune, and air filters. It weighs 4,500 pounds with me in it and a full tank of gas and has ran an 11.96 @ 116mph in OK weather. Truly a remarkable car, and I've been very lucky and had no major problems.
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Sep 26, 2011 21:30
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wallaka posted:I joined the club! Nice! If you have any questions ask away and be sure to join https://www.mbworld.org it contains an amazing wealth of information.
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Nov 4, 2011 04:34
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wallaka posted:I never really paid attention to the fact that M-B made performance cars before now. I love it. The car is ridiculous, even more so since I installed that 180mm crank pulley earlier this week. I suppose headers are next after the heat exchanger and intercooler pump I've ordered come in. Did you get the EC tune yet? I've had my 180mm and EC tune for a year and a half now and absolutely love it! It's fun applying about 400 lb-ft to that crank bolt, isn't it? I just got my new rear rotors and pads in today. 116,000 miles on the stock rotors probably wasn't the best idea, but it will still suck your eyeballs out. This car never ceases to amaze me, especially during the colder months when rolling burnouts at 60 mph are the norm and fuel mileage barely creeps into the double digits.
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Nov 17, 2011 04:50
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sanchez posted:How reliable are the E55's, are they something that can be maintained without CPO and with some DIY? You will get a million different answers to this, but here's my take. FWIW, I purchased my car 2.5 years ago and have put 55,000 miles on it. In that time I have had both exhaust manifolds crack at the flange where it dumps into the pipes(welded long ago and holding fine. FREE), one wheel cracked(got knock off E63 wheels for $600), intercooler pump($175), Airmatic pump($100 used) and engine/transmission mounts($130). I have been relatively lucky. There are others who have racked up $10K+ in repairs in far less time and bitch and moan about how no one in their right mind would own one of these cars without a warranty. There are many known areas that can fail and be costly to fix, such as the Airmatic suspension, valvecover gaskets, fuel tank/pump, alternator, supercharger clutch, and the SBC(brake by wire) unit. Some of the stories you hear will be from people with a warranty who manage to turn a $1K job into $8,000 worth of work because they have a warranty and want every little thing "fixed" whether it's really broken or not. I would do the same thing. It's really luck of the draw. I feel that on the whole they are just as reliable as any other car, but when something breaks it can get costly in a hurry. I do all my own work, and I maintain that if the car is a daily driver and doesn't sit for weeks on end that it will break less often. You will go through rear tires every 15K or less, and brakes can be very expensive if you don't do the work yourself. I just replaced front and rear rotors and pads with Mercedes parts and spent about $550, which isn't bad at all. It's really a crapshoot, and if you budget for major repairs and never have to do them, then great! Even though you can get the car for $17,000 - $30,000, it's still an $80,000+ car when it comes to maintenance. wallaka posted:Yeah, I installed the pulley Monday morning, called up EC, and they set up a remote tune by 3pm. It went way easier than it should considering I was involved in the process. I was making GBS threads a brick trying to tighten that crank bolt. I thought the breaker bar was going to snap. I just switched over to some 245/40/18 all-seasons in the rear for winter, and they grip 100 times better in 30 degree weather than the Summer tires I had. I don't care how stupid it looks, I'm not going into a ditch this Winter. Here's what I do during the Summer. I think this was my 11.96 run. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffc1XBNlmyA Meathole fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Nov 17, 2011 |
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Nov 17, 2011 23:28
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mod sassinator posted:Comedy E55 option, with high miles you can find them under $20k. Random stuff will probably be broken, but the engine is pretty solid and drat quick. Wear items like brakes will not be cheap though. Wear items are actually not bad at all, considering the car. I did all four rotors and pads with OEM Brembo parts(except Porterfield front pads) for under $600. What will get you is stuff that shouldn't break but does occasionally, like the Airmatic struts, fuel pumps/tank if you're unlucky, ball joints(somewhat expected),exhaust manifolds, and cracked wheels. They're actually very solid cars, but be warned that engine and tranny mounts are a normal wear item, rear tires last 10-15K a set, and you'll never find a non-drag tire that even pretends to hook up. You can find them in the teens with 100K+ miles. Mine just rolled over 120K and I've been very lucky as far as maintenance goes.
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Mar 6, 2012 04:16
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Cyrezar posted:I've never heard of either of those being problems with this car. Sources? They're not problems, plain and simple. I daily drove my 2004 E55 for 4 years and 71,000 miles, and visited the MBworld forums daily. The only real issue with the transmission was the occasional connector plate seeping fluid(an easy fix), and a couple of people who did have the tranny start to act up, but they were pushing it, as in running 11.50's and under in the 1/4 mile on a very regular basis. I saw very very few cases of tranny and engine problems, and almost all of them were on heavily modified cars. During my ownership all I had to do was regular maintenance, which on an E55 includes motor and tranny mounts, crankshaft position sensor, brakes, and of course rear tires every 10-12K. They are actually very solid cars aside from the occasional fuel sender leak or air suspension issue. Mine had a 180mmm pulley and tune and ran 11.90's for the last 55,000 miles I owned it, with no adverse effects.
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Apr 10, 2013 22:31
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Cyrezar posted:Anyone with a 2003-2006 E55 ever do the valve cover gaskets? Looking at the DIY threads on MBWORLD it looks like a pretty straightforward job. Should have done them when I did the spark plugs 6 months ago, I'm approaching 70,000 miles now and they are due. Indy shop quoted me about $450 or so for the job including cleaning of the PCV valve. Normally I'd just pay it and be done with it but I just spent $2500 on brakes and tires and might need to spend some more on the suspension here shortly. I fixed a few airmatic issues myself(leaks and the pump), but in the 4 years and 70,000 miles I owned my E55 I was fortunate enough not to have a strut failure. I did replace the motor and trans mounts twice, and rear tires every 10,000 miles or so. My valve covers leaked from the day I got it, but it only used/lost a quart and a half every 10K, so I never touched them. I did research it and it looks really easy, I think there are a couple of good threads on MBWorld from Yacht Master and a couple of other owners. Next time you need brakes I suggest doing them yourself. It is very straightforward, and rotors are from Mercedes are ~$100 apiece, and the Akebono pads(with near 0 dust) aren't too expensive. Just remember to unplug the ESP/ABS so the pistons don't shoot out and maim your hand when some dumbass opens the door. Speaking of plugs, make sure you get the right ones. All of the parts listings I looked at list the wrong plugs, which are about 1/4" too short. I think the correct ones are NGK ILFR6A at $10 or so apiece(times 16) if I remember right.
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Feb 12, 2014 03:57
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Cyrezar posted:Did you do the airmatic maintenance and the motor mounts yourself? If so, how difficult was the job and what did fixing the leaks entail? Unless something explodes, the last two maintenance items left to do are change the transmission fluid and filter and the driver's side motor mount, which is partially collapsed. I also get an intermittent error message relating to the airmatic but haven't been able to find any leaks and my mechanic basically just said not to worry about it unless I notice it start to sag. He does strongly recommend the Arnott replacement struts which are only around $500 and have a lifetime warranty, he said the quality is outstanding and better than OEM. I believe the dealer charges about $1200 just for the part which is absurd. Sorry I'm a month late to the party, I never check this thread anymore since I sold the car. I did all of the work myself. The motor mounts are easy to unbolt(2 bolts), but the issue is actually removing them from the vehicle. You either have to remove the exhaust at the manifolds, unbolt the swaybar, or unbolt the steering rack and work them out. I did them the first time by putting a ratchet strap on the sway bar and pulling it down(with about 300 pounds), and the second time I unbolted the steering rack and pried it out of the way. In both cases the mounts barely slipped through. With the airmatic, I also had an intermittent warning and tracked it down to a leak in the junction block by the differential. I removed the offending plastic line, trimmed the end off, and reinstalled it. When the warning came back again down the road, I ended up having to replace the pump in the left front fender. It still worked and would raise the car with ease, but it wasn't building the pressure they system was looking for. I never did have any strut issues, but it worried me constantly. I traded in the car with 133,000 miles with the original struts still intact.
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Mar 28, 2014 16:54
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EAB posted:I really want a CLS55. Are these part of that "low build quality era" or are they generally pretty solid? That's how I felt when I bought my E55. I had always wanted one when they came out, and 6 years later the perfect one popped up for sale and I grabbed it. Very expensive things can go wrong, but I was lucky and was able to fix the few issues that popped up on mine over the 70,000 miles that I owned it. The drivetrain is basically bulletproof, and doing rolling burnouts in a Mercedes is always good for a laugh. I think the CLS was another 300-400 pounds heavier than the E-class, but when you're talking 2 tons plus it doesn't really matter. The supercharged 55's will definitely teach you that gobs of torque off idle is way more fun than something like an M3 or M5 with a more peaky powerband.
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Aug 14, 2015 19:01
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