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Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Sup guys. Just sold my G8 and am shopping E55s.

Cyrezar posted:

I've said it before but I'm not aware of a way to currently get more car for the money on the used market.

Some cool stuff about the car:

Its a fast as gently caress Mercedes that crushes pretty much everything on the road while being immensely comfortable and luxurious and cost about $21,000

Yeah, so that sums up my perspective too - bang for the buck is huge. I was considering everything under the sun but I think I'm sold (especially after driving one today.)

I'm looking to spend <$20k for the best example possible - the closer to $15k the better - so if you guys know of any undiscovered gems not on AutoTrader/CL/etc. let me know. I already know I'm going to need to fly for the right car. If I can move on it this coming week, I'd like to, as I have cash in hand and want a car of my own again.

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Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

That was quick. My '05 E55 AMG:



It's old man tan/silver/pewter with chrome wheels and no tint, but was a 1-owner car with a great service history and is in awesome shape. Cosmetics can be addressed. Or I can just leave it and surprise a lot of Camaros with my up-jumped European Camry. It was bulletproof on the drive back to Denver last night.

Now to go visit Kleemann in Colorado Springs...

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Cyrezar posted:

Nice find. I've only seen a few with the chrome wheels. How much was it if you don't mind me asking? How many miles? It seems these cars are still depreciating fairly quickly. For reference my 04 was about 21 including TTL fees w/ 53,000 miles.

Just under $17k, 99k miles. I figured I would rather have a car with more miles and one owner that was serviced its entire life at the same dealership, than a car with multiple owners and fewer miles. One owner E55s seem very rare anymore.

I very likely could have picked up an '04 with less miles for less money, but wanted '05+ for the steering rack update and was avoiding '03s like the plague. So far the car is awesome, even in awful 8300 feet density altitude air it ran a 13.4xx in the quarter on Friday, which is faster than my G8 GXP ever ran even after tune/catback/intake etc.

Tremek fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jul 8, 2013

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Just ordered a transmission computer from an '03 E55 AMG. Why you ask?

So I can do brake stand burnouts.

Mercedes in their infinite wisdom changed transmission modules and software in later model '05 and '06 E55s to prevent you from roasting the rears down to the cords. I intend to change this!

My trusty assistants reviewing my work to get to the TCU:



After digging into the footwell I determined that I do in fact have a TCU that's on the naughty list:



So, new TCU should hopefully be here by Monday. I will report back with what I hope is confirmation of rampant Conti SportContact 3 abuse. The real point of all this is to be able to warm up drag radials at the strip without putting the car into Dyno mode (which entails keying the car off and back on, getting into a diag menu, etc.) This should just be ESP off and go.

After this I will be looking into whether I can get a tuner to adapt the new (old) TCU to 3.06 rear gears...

Edit: on the subject of 3.06 gears, I'm looking for some. The stock 215mm ring/pinion gears out of non-Getrag 2005 through 2010 Chrysler and Dodge SRT8 6.1L cars will swap right into the E55 pumpkin. Anyone know of any 3.06 gears? The SRT8 guys are usually swapping to 3.23 or 3.55 or greater, so someone has to have a set of these sitting unloved on a shelf in their garage.

Tremek fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Jul 10, 2013

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

wallaka posted:

Eurocharged should be able to reflash your TCU. Don't know why you don't like the 2.65 gears!

Eurocharged is an option but it also requires sending them the TCU - they can't do it via the cable yet. There's also a few mbworld guys that tried to work with Eurocharged on this to change the ratios and apparently didn't get good outcomes but I'm not writing them off yet.

Kleemann's US HQ is also an hour south of me so I may work with Cory to see what can be done if he's interested as that's a really close resource. I need to get gears in hand first.

2.63 is just ridiculous - 1st goes to over 50mph, and redline in 5th calculates out to well over 200mph. Going to 3.06 or 3.23 will help me get out of the hole significantly faster, traction allowing. At this altitude with a 2 ton+ car my 60 foots are terrible.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

wallaka posted:

Yeah, that was a little sarcasm on the gears. The reason I haven't swapped mine is because I wasn't sure about the TCU issues. AFAIK nobody can do it via cable yet though. I think some 3.x gears with a real limited slip will help immensely. My 60ft times suck but part of that is I still can't launch the car well with the 180mm crank pulley. I got better 60ft times from the stock pulley but better ETs and traps now.

I have to say that in day-to-day driving, the big pulley is king even if it might give up a little top-end power due to excessive heat. The torque hit is immense. Between that, a PLM intercooler and big pump, and shorty headers the car is a blast to drive.

All on the list. :devil:

Edit: TCU came today. Will report back on whether this changes my burnout capacity if nothing else. If we're good there, I will reach out to Cory & others accordingly...

Tremek fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jul 15, 2013

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

So a minor setback. Got the TCU, installed it - and the car won't even crank with the new TCU plugged in. Plug in the original TCU and the car starts right up.

Any chance anyone knows if there's some process to install the new TCU that I'm not doing - a reset or something? It's possible this TCU is either dead or won't work for this car, but there's a report on mbworld of someone else using this TCU. Model is A 033 454 14 32.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

E55 update: ordered the Eurocharged ECU + TCU tune. They can tune the ECU through the cable and someday claim to do the TCU in the same way but for now you have to send it to them... I'm going to send my not-working TCU and see if they can tune that and get it working for me, plus get the ECU tune in the deal. Excited to see if I can feel the difference, but they also do free retunes after mods and that's where the real value will be at in the future.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Doesn't seem like changing the oil would either solve your issue of the SC not working or be the cause of the issue, unless the issue is the SC has no oil in which case you're up poo poo creek.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Good news on the TCU front - sent off the TCU that didn't work to Eurocharged, and it has returned functional, tuned, and allowing for ESP-off burnouts!

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Devyl posted:

*edit* N/m, found it after digging through old bookmarks. turns out it WAS a 318ti, just with flat black paint. Totally not a Merc. Sorry guys :(

Don't buy that either!

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Did some stuff over the past few weeks for the E55. Plastidipped the grille and badges with anthracite (metallic) and I think it looks good:









So cosmetics aside, I want it to go faster. I live in Colorado and I'm at over 6,000 feet and the drag strip (Bandimere) is at 5800, and then when you add in density altitude of 8,000 to 9000 feet during race season - we don't make NEARLY as much power as the rest of you lowlanders. Like, 25% less than sea level. E55s that break into the 11s easily at sea level? Yeah, more like high 12s or low 13s here. Same goes for virtually everything. New Camaro SS are lucky to run low to mid 14s, a 4.6 mod motor Mustang runs in the 15s, a C6 Vette MIGHT break into the 13s, stock GTRs in the mid 12s - you get the picture.

Bandimere has a number of different series to compete in each year, and while I race with friends in Club Clash (where anything from 10.50 to 13.99 is considered 'Top Street' and 13.99+ is 'Hot Rod') I also want to run in a different series called King Street, which is 12.75 seconds or faster.

So first things first are addressing a few of the E55's shortcomings - namely cooling and the cooling path for the supercharger that is on the same circuit as the motor. To that end I had my local speed shop (whose team I race with at Club Clash) install a Eurocharged heat exchanger and a dad's coolant trunk tank, while also splitting the cooling system:







There's also a 2,000 gph pump inside the tank, so that plus the pump up front means a LOT of coolant moving through. At the track I could see that both peak temps were lower, idle temps above ambient were lower, and that recovery was MUCH better. This will help all future power mods, along with unlock some unrealized potential when we were circulating 180+ degree coolant through the supercharger. Bottom line is IATs are down a lot.

While we were at it I also wanted to make a little more power elsewhere, so the same shop installed a smaller supercharger pulley, idler pulley set, and a belt wrap kit:





Net effect of all this: I dipped into the 12s last Friday night with 8500+ DA and had very consistent runs overall. At sea level this car would likely be in high to mid 11s. Still a bit to go though to get to King Street. More to come...

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Cyrezar posted:

Very cool. Haven't taken my E55 to the strip yet but I have felt the difference in power after a few hard pulls when the supercharger just gives up and disengages.

What kind/size of pulley did you use? And what kind of tires did you run with?

Yeah, the pulley disengaging due to high IATs is disconcerting to say the least - feels like the car is about to throw a CEL at you, but it's just dumping timing and fuel and using the bypass in a heavy-handed attempt to keep from going kaboom... Even romping on it I haven't had the faintest inclination that it's going to engage the bypass with the new heat exchanger and trunk tank. Peak IATs on the track in 85 degree 40% humidity weather were 155f, and I'm pretty sure the bypass kicks in at like 190 degree IATs or possibly higher, which it's unfortunately very capable of reaching while stock.

The mbworld guys dug this up recently:



... which indicates that the car is already pulling timing at 95, 113, and 149 degrees in three different stages. Pretty low thresholds. If it's cool ambient temp with low humidity next week it's going to be interesting to see just how much faster the car can go when it's not getting raped by IATs.

The pulley is from the mbworld vendor shardul, and is supposedly equivalent to a 180mm crank pulley but I'm somewhat doubtful (as is the rest of the community) that the SC pulley is as effective as the crank pulley. The tires are Mickey Thompson ET Street II drag radials, which I have been driving around on for the past month and a half because :effort: and because wife's Cayenne had its coolant pipes go last month and that project (with Joewagon's copious assistance) became the priority. Last Club Clash this year is next week, so I will pull them off afterwards.


IOwnCalculus posted:

So rather than masking the badge, you can just mask the area around it and peel the excess off of the paint? That's pretty cool.

Yup, super easy to work with. Any overspray outside the tape you get on the car can come off with light wipes from a microfiber towel, and then the peeling off of the layer around the badge itself often just happens with removing the masking tape; there's a natural break between the badge and the body of the car where the plastidip will be weak, so as you peel (horizontal to the surface of the car - don't peel out towards you or it can rip the plastidip OFF the badge) it will pull apart without cutting, etc.

Neat stuff. Wheels are next for me, and then maybe the tiny sliver of chrome that wraps the entire drat car and is impossible to mask appropriately. :(

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

wallaka posted:

My heat exchanger pump was dead when I bought the car. The ECU would cut off the supercharger after two 0-60 pulls in 65 degree weather.

The PLM H/E and Meziere pump was a good upgrade. The only time since then that the compressor's been turned off is when the idler pulley disintegrated, and I live in Alabama.

Shardul hadn't come out with his pulley when I upgraded, does it snatch when the clutch locks up? It's a fairly irritating phenomenon with my 180mm.

Scary re: dead pump. I also installed the Bosch 010 pump as I didn't trust the pump that came with the car, which turned out to be the original.

With my stock pulley every time the clutch engaged I did get the belt chirp + a bit of jerkiness. Now the chirp is gone - seems like the belt + the belt wrap kit is pretty snug. With that said when the car is cold and in S mode it's very jerky at low throttle, but I can't tell if that's the tune, the pulley, or a combination or both. Just throwing it into C solves for the problem in the meantime.

I put the idler pulley set on for exactly that reason re: reports of disintegrating pulleys - figure it's preventative maintenance.

Do you have headers or any other mods beyond the 180mm pulley? I'm trying to figure out my next steps (figure if I should be thinking about injectors, looped fuel rail, etc...) to support headers, throttle body, etc. Swapping the rear gears from the super tall 2.62 to either 3.06 or 3.23 will help the car get out of the hole faster without having to touch the motor.

Tremek fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Sep 12, 2013

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

IOwnCalculus posted:

Speaking of high mileage bad ideas...





This seems like the best worst idea.

I would look for a lower mileage example. Prepare for maintenance not unlike a car payment for a bit and then you're probably good to go for a while. I would predict stuff like Airmatic shocks all around, fuel pump/system, maybe a transmission. It's going to be $6-8k past the purchase price to get that thing good to go for a while and even then it's just going to have other random failures due to high mileage. That and it's an '04 - '05 and '06 are the preferable years.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Stealth Like posted:

I think all the newer ones go to 200, but it was a mix in the earlier years. The previous generation of my car goes to 180, but mine goes to 200.

'03-04 E55s went to 160 and the '05-06 (minor) refresh cars have a 200 mph speedo. If you run across an early car with the 200 mph speedo, it has probably had the instrument cluster replaced at some point.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

wallaka posted:

I have shorty headers, dry K&N air filters, and deleted the mufflers, but that's it. Basically a "stage 2" build. The next mod I'm thinking about is a TCU flash and then shorter diff ratio with a real limited slip. I've heard rumors about the SRT parts but need to do more research.

I have been doing a lot of the same research. Early SRT8 diffs carry the same 215mm ring gear as our diffs, and I think it's '05-'08 Chargers that are the target. Later versions of the same generation switched to (I think) a 225mm Getrag diff that won't work for us.

So a stock SRT's gears are 3.06, and there's also (expensive) aftermarket gear sets that go to like 3.23 and 3.56, but the latter I think would be way too aggressive. I'm thinking 3.23 + the Quaife LSD (may as well while we're in there - I don't get any wheel slip with the DRs now, but since we're there...) - should make this thing stupid quick off the line. Talked to a local shop and they said that book claimed it was a 12 hour job to get it out and back in, and both the guy and I were thinking that was ridiculous.

The biggest challenge is the TCU tune. There's a lot of mbworld FUD over who can or can't adjust the TCU to 3.23 gears. I think one guy has gone to 3.23, and a few others have gone to 3.06.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Cyrezar posted:

Here's my 100% bone stock 2004. Think I'm up to 63,000 miles now.





Looks good, I have to think that green is really rare. With the low mileage, I'm assuming you drive other cars more?

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Tremek posted:

I have been doing a lot of the same research. Early SRT8 diffs carry the same 215mm ring gear as our diffs, and I think it's '05-'08 Chargers that are the target. Later versions of the same generation switched to (I think) a 225mm Getrag diff that won't work for us.

So a stock SRT's gears are 3.06, and there's also (expensive) aftermarket gear sets that go to like 3.23 and 3.56, but the latter I think would be way too aggressive. I'm thinking 3.23 + the Quaife LSD (may as well while we're in there - I don't get any wheel slip with the DRs now, but since we're there...) - should make this thing stupid quick off the line. Talked to a local shop and they said that book claimed it was a 12 hour job to get it out and back in, and both the guy and I were thinking that was ridiculous.

The biggest challenge is the TCU tune. There's a lot of mbworld FUD over who can or can't adjust the TCU to 3.23 gears. I think one guy has gone to 3.23, and a few others have gone to 3.06.

Reviving this - earlier this year I found a Mercedes master tech that opened his own shop 3 miles from my house. He did a bunch of maintenance for me and everything went really well and I like the guy, so my E55 is at his shop now getting 3.06s plus a P30 perf package LSD installed. He thinks he may be able to do the TCU programming via STAR/DAS/whatever else he has at his disposal, so... We will see.

Also considering Kleemann headers before race season. Last, for content, found some SL55 wheels + winter tires on Ebay last month for a steal and got my Mickey Thompson ET Street IIs mounted on the back 9.5s and my ContiSportContacts up front on the 8.5s:



My aux. mechanic inspecting my work:



They're plastidipped black by the PO but I don't mind them tbqh. Either way, I like them, and the offset is virtually perfect - unlike the stock E55 wheels, they're now essentially flush with the fenders. Maybe polarizing, but I dig it.

Tremek fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Apr 7, 2014

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Cyrezar posted:

How much did the LSD run you (parts and labor) if you don't mind? My E55 is bone stock right now but that's one upgrade I've considered.

I found a used P30 performance package LSD on mbworld.org for $500 shipped, and the 3.06 gears are out of a ~2006 Chrysler 300c SRT8 and were $125. So far mechanic says all pieces look good mechanically, so I figure a $625 parts investment + $? ($500? Hopefully? Will let you know when the car's done) labor is better than $1800 in parts (Quaife or Wavetrac are $1000-$1300, and Richmond 3.06 gears are $450) + labor.

Even if the Quaife and Wavetrac are overall superior pieces I'm hoping for my purposes the P30 will work well enough to let me turn TC completely off with the drag radials at the track.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Cyrezar posted:

Nice! Yeah the Quaife was what I looked at but the prices seemed to be close to $2,000 which is about what I'll probably end up spending refreshing the suspension when it comes time. You seem to know your poo poo when it comes to these cars, is this your first E55? Did you get one specifically to drag race?

First E55 for me - I had a G8 GXP before this and wanted to go faster for less, so E55 rose to the top. No more payments means more playing with the car!

Definitely not an expert but have been trying to read the Merc forums, and read between the lines sometimes... It's not a bad community all things considered but they're nowhere near the level of LS modders and the like and everything costs 3-5x as much. I didn't get the car just to drag race but since my friends have run Club Clash here at Bandimere for a number of years now it's fun to have a reason to go be social and do car stuff.

I have only had the car since last July but it's fun to get these incremental things done and see the results hopefully play out at the track and, uh, elsewhere.

Cyrezar posted:

Even factoring in the maintenance cost it's hard to beat the E55 as a total package, dollar wise.

That's just it... As sedans go it's still the most bang for the buck, even with the Airmatic and fuel tank drama.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

mafoose posted:

Speaking of drag racing mercs, my supervisor has a 2011(?) E class AMG.

He took it out to the strip, just for shits and grins. Only got 1 run in (due to wait times), and managed a 14.5 at 108mph. First ever time out at the track, not too shabby for 4450 pounds with a driver.

He bogged it off the line and then the traction control kick in which lead to a lovely 2.4 60'.

With that mph he should be deep in the 13s no problem! He's thinking of getting an LSD for his too.

Tell him his car's slow!

At 7800 ft. density altitude last year (left lane):



That's something like low 12s at sea level. His car should be in the 12s or at worst, low 13s if it's a 6.2 NA E63. If it's a 2012+ TT 5.5 E63 it should be a lot faster.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

wallaka posted:

Should be deep in the 12's with an E55, too. I had a 12.5@124 at 400 feet or so.

If you're referring to my times, altitude kills it. For reference, my E's faster than stock CTS-Vs on the same track and about 6-7/10th and 10mph down from a stock GTR, which would be mid to low 11s at a lowland track. At 124mph, you should be faster than 12.5? That's more like a 114-116 mph run... Guys at sea level with low to mid 120s are trapping mid-11s, and a guy just ran 10.39 @ 134 a few weeks ago.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

wallaka posted:

My 60 foot times were garbage. Never could get it to hook, probably because I'm a lovely driver.

Tires are the most likely culprit? ContiSportContacts don't exactly hook well. :) What were you running on it?

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

IOwnCalculus posted:

Yes and no. My dad took his C63 to the track this weekend and even with the same drag Nittos he had on his C6 (remounted, of course) he couldn't get past a 2.0 60'. He says part of it is he forgot to air them down enough, but a lot of it was also fighting the traction control - once it kicks in, it just falls on its face.

Where is your dad? I saw a C63 (6.2 NA) at my local strip this weekend for the first time. They were running 13.8 @ 105 or so. Thanks, altitude.

Related, got down to 12.8 @ 109 on my best run... Inching ever so slowly towards 12.75 and below. I'm hoping headers will push me well over the mark.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

If Medieval Thinker's E500 also has a trunk opener, that mechanism can go out and it's supposedly a bitch to replace up behind the liner on the driver's side of the trunk. Mine closes too quickly now and it will eventually break but I'm not interested in a $400 part that's still working.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Mr. Wiggles posted:

This is a good thing!

I notice a distinct disparity in this thread between the more vintage cars and the E55 etc. cars. I see it like the difference between old money and the nouveau riche. :wotwot:

If E55-driving, nouveau riche is wrong, then I don't want to be fedora-wearing, pipe-smoking ...right? gently caress.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

HotCanadianChick posted:



There are plenty of cars that are faster for less money, the big selling point of something like an E55 AMG or an M5 is that you get that performance without looking like a tool in a souped-up econobox with a cheap lovely interior. Also the E60 M5 and the Audi RS6 are solid competitors to the E55, and can be had for around $25-30k now

An E55 walks an Evo X in a straight line and for 2/3 the price.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

HotCanadianChick posted:

That's not a standard Evo X. It's an FQ450 or summat, bit more power than factory. (Only sold in the UK, but it is sold new, with full warranty).

Uh, so you're making an even worse comparison where it's probably equal in straight line performance for the equivalent of 3x 5x the cost of an E55 in the US?

quote:

Only 40 examples of the Lancer Evolution X FQ-440 MR will be produced, each with a £50,000 ($83,000) price tag.

Goddamn get out.

Tremek fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Jun 4, 2014

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

The 6.2 63s have motor problems too, buyer beware.

Maybe to put your wanderlust to bed here: I came from a manual G8 GXP to the E55 and the E55's a more-better car. 'Nuff said?

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

A used E55 runs about $20k, whereas the least-expensive ZL1 on cars.com is $43k which is not under anyone's definition "slightly more". This is pretty pro thread-making GBS threads HCC.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Tai-Pan posted:

I too am utterly confused by the SS. It looks like a rental car, isn't that nice inside and costs a fortune. Its like they needed some homologation for a racing class and put zero effort into it.

I like the understated sedan with a manual concept but it needs, at the very least, to look as cool as the Impala SS.

Otherwise GM already has a better version of this car on sale for less money: The ATS sport/CTS.

It's the RWD full-size sedan that Chevy's been missing since the mid-2000s Impala, and kudos to them for trying to have a halo sedan on the brand.

The 2015's getting the manual so yes there's that - as a side note I imagine that's going to squash the GXP manual used market, rather glad I got out of mine after driving it for almost 4 years with about $11k depreciation.

The interior's actually significantly nicer than, say, the Charger SRT8 - not sure what the bash there is. $45k really isn't a fortune for a dealer-new performance sedan, which is still less than any ATS 3.6 Performance package you can pick up off a lot (easily $50k with options) and that's a significantly smaller sedan to boot. ATS wheelbase is 109.3" whereas the SS is 114.8", of which every inch can be found (or lost) in the back seat if you ever cart around adults or kids in car seats. I think for a couple reasons those cars cater to different buyers. Don't forget that the SS is faster.

CTS is closer in dimensions but even more expensive. Same goes for a 335i, which is back in the more-like-the-ATS size. Overall the SS is, just like the G8 was, a great sedan with a too-humble exterior that will get remembered by enthusiasts as a fantastic sleeper but unloved by the market. I guess we can call it the Holden Curse, but considering they're stopping production (in what, 2017?) we won't have to worry about it anymore. :(

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Last comment on fuel economy: with both cars tuned, my E55 averages about 14.8 mpg whereas my GXP (LS3, same motor and essentially the same car as the SS) averaged 18.1 and could get 23-24 mpg at highway speeds. I think real-world MPG of an SS would be somewhat better than the EPA estimates.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Cyrezar posted:

This is one of the greatest threads I've ever read:

http://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w220/431985-ongoing-maintenance-repair-2003-s600.html

A guy buys a 2003 S600 (Twin-turbo V12 w/ hydraulic suspension) with 80,000 miles, at least 2 crashes on the vehicle history, chrome trim screwed to the body panels, and about 15 error codes being thrown.

He then painstakingly completes every repair himself and documents everything.


Unrelated, but I went and test drove some new Hondas yesterday to see about getting a commuter car. Drove the new Accord V6, Civic SI, and Ridgeline. They are all nice cars and I especially, and somewhat surprisingly, really liked the Ridgeline. Getting back in the E55 made them feel like toys though; from the second you shut the door you can tell the difference even after 10 years.




Tremek, did you ever get the LSD installed?

I did have both the LSD and 3.06 gears installed and now with my sticky drag radials you can hear a little chirp-chirp-chirp on slow corners. :siren:POSI POWER:siren:

Did it make much difference? Uh, well, not really. I still owe Weistec/BIP a log file of my car so they can figure out the shift points and send me a new TCU because I'm bouncing off of fuel cutoff at the top of 1st and 2nd at WOT which is not real awesome. But beyond that I think 2.62 -> 3.06 is pretty subtle overall, I didn't pick up much of anything yet in the quarter. I think headers are my next move and then a 3000 rpm stall torque converter after that. It's just money..

Re: Ridgeline, they're surprisingly neat trucks - the lockable trunk under the bed is badass - and they have been around since '06 MY so go find a cheap used one and beat it to hell.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

The big things that come to mind are Airmatic suspension part failures (~$500 or so per front strut for the fronts and about $900 for the two rear air springs from Arnott Industries. You can replace the fronts one at a time but if you have the rears fail you need to do both at the same time. I did my front right myself but I'll be taking it to the shop for the rears when they go.

The fancy SBC (electrohydraulic) brake system's known to have pump failures periodically - mine was replaced before I got the car so I'm probably fine for a while, but check to see if any prospective car you're looking at has had its done, I think it's a relatively expensive ($1200-$1400?) part.

The fuel pumps die a slow death - they melt their harness as they draw more current and start leaking eventually. GG, Mercedes. If the car smells like gas, welp. Mine shows no signs of this. The pumps are like $650 or so each and you will need to drop the tank and replace both at the same time.

There's a few other relatively minor things like ball joints that go bad over time but those are almost wear items. Notice I haven't mentioned anything about the drivetrain - it's known to be pretty solid.

Cyrezar, am I forgetting anything?

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

For what it's worth the last comparison review I saw of the GLK's small-crossover luxury segment I think the GLK came in last and the Q5 came in first, with BMWs, Lexus, and Volvo spread between. Also if it was me, I kind of want an SQ5 for no good reason whatsoever.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

There's a 2011 GL550 in my driveway... On loan from the MB dealer until Monday. Also looked at a brand-new Durango R/T and a Pilot today, the GL's definitely nicer.

Going to go compare it to a Lexus LX570 on Monday, though. Give me pros and cons as to which you would pick and why? My lizard brain keeps whispering that the LX would be infinitely more reliable, but the GL has something great to it too.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

We had a Cayenne (Turbo S, whee!) but we will need a 3rd row in a few months, hence the bigger models. I'm liking the GL so far... With a CPO warranty it should be fine.

Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

Nidhg00670000 posted:

No, I mean W210 E55s (NA V8, 350hp)? Can be had from $6k and up here.

You're doing it wrong.

Das Volk posted:

May I remind everyone that it's possible to make those sound like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5ZIomet8Yk

And therefore all arguments against owning one are null and void.

That would get old so fast.

In other news:



GL550 it is!

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Tremek
Jun 10, 2005

The GL550's for my wife, I still have the E55. STEP OFF HATERS

(ps the GL550's pretty drat fast for a big SUV and even has paddle shifters, that's how you KNOW it's fast)

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