|
I don't think this is the right thread, but maybe you guys know where to shoo me off to. I'm having a problem where one device sends signal to a CRT monitor through an HDMI to VGA adapter perfectly fine, but when I plug those same cables into a different device, there is no signal pushed and the audio port on the converter also doesn't work. The 2nd device works fine if I use HDMI cables on an HDMI monitor and if I use a different converter, it works, but the signal/audio (through a port on the converter) is lost every few seconds or so. I'm trying to figure out what I need to do or buy to make it work.
|
# ¿ Oct 28, 2019 03:08 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 20, 2024 03:26 |
|
So, I'm having the discussion over in the PC building thread a bit, but I figured I'd ask here too. In short, I'm looking for a new upgrade from my VG248. I initially wanted 144hz 4K IPS but quickly realized that's not an affordable thing yet. Sacrificing 144hz since I don't game primarily seems to be the wisest thing to drop out of the three options, so, looking at options therein, I found this: https://smile.amazon.com/LG-27UK850...ics&sr=1-3&th=1 Would anyone advise against this or is there something that offers the same at a cheaper cost?
|
# ¿ Jan 5, 2020 15:21 |
|
LODGE NORTH posted:So, I'm having the discussion over in the PC building thread a bit, but I figured I'd ask here too. Same page, but anyone have any guidance on a good 4K IPS monitor?
|
# ¿ Jan 6, 2020 03:47 |
|
K8.0 posted:That isn't a bad monitor as long as you realize that the Freesync/VRR on any 60hz monitor is basically completely worthless. It's a relatively higher end monitor, I personally don't see a reason to buy it unless you're making money doing photoshop or video work on it. 4K 60hz monitors are getting to be about as dime a dozen as 1080p monitors, you can search 4k IPS on Amazon and find a boatload of them. Well, my thought process is that I may not be buying a new monitor for another 2 years anyway, so for now, why not get something decent to good. I currently work off of a MG248Q, which isn't bad, but I kinda wanna start seeing 4K. I guess, at this point, I'm looking for what the best I can get for <$500 would be even if it means I have to sacrifice something. Like if I can go 2K, 144hz, IPS and be in a decent range etc. e: I've decided to sacrifice 4K in favor of 2K, so still an upgrade. Prices seem a lot more manageable. Now, to find the "really good" 2K, 144+hz, IPS options. LODGE NORTH fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Jan 6, 2020 |
# ¿ Jan 6, 2020 04:26 |
|
K8.0 posted:Nixeus EDG-27s v2. $340 right now. The stand is poo poo and the OSD isn't great, but the panel performs well and the Freesync implementation is great. You can spend more money and get something generally better, but the value isn't there. What would those options be?
|
# ¿ Jan 6, 2020 06:28 |
|
Stickman posted:What will you primarily be using the monitor for, if you're mostly not gaming? That should help with recommendations. Video and movie editing, design work, other basic computer things. The only real gaming I do on this is Remote Play from my PS4, but I haven't played a game on this thing in years, maybe.
|
# ¿ Jan 6, 2020 07:35 |
|
So uh, based off my recent questioning etc, should I just wait for these or will they likely sit around 1K in price? I was ironically just looking at the 27GL850B.
|
# ¿ Jan 6, 2020 09:11 |
|
nerdrum posted:Has Anyone grabbed an sr75 Samsung yet? 144hz with freesync, va, 2k and a great swivel screen, and apparently after calibration it's as good as a va can get? https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/samsung/space-sr75 Interested in this too. My current plan on action is to get a better monitor than the one I have now, but more or less stay on the cheaper (price) side and hopefully bump up to a 4K IPS 144hz some time next year or the year after that. e: Just gonna stick with looking for a 27GL850B and debating if it's worth it right now. e2: It's worth it, I got one for around $400. LODGE NORTH fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jan 11, 2020 |
# ¿ Jan 11, 2020 02:37 |
|
I just got the 27GL850B and man...having this much screen is kinda mind blowing. That paired with its IPS screen - whew. I have to actually turn my head to see some things.
|
# ¿ Jan 14, 2020 22:45 |
|
Best Buy has the LG 27GL850-B back up on their eBay page https://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-UltraGe...L8AAOSw-qNdvMcH Amazon has it listed again as well, but it's not back in stock until the 7th of February. https://www.amazon.com/LG-27GL850-B-Ultragear-Compatible-Monitor/dp/B07TD94TQF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=lg+27gl850&qid=1579327985&sr=8-3
|
# ¿ Jan 18, 2020 07:15 |
|
ShowTime posted:I'm trying to find a 4k 144hz monitor and everywhere seems to be sold out. The LG 27GN950-B is the most recommended model, but i'm looking into other options that might be available. Anyone know where I can find one outside of Amazon/Best Buy or have another 4k 144hz recommendation? It's available from Adorama through eBay. There's literally one left from the time I'm posting this, so who knows if it'll still be there in x-amount of hours. https://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-27GN950...9EAAOSwhkdf4kd9
|
# ¿ Dec 26, 2020 09:53 |
|
I have a question I don't think anyone has a concrete answer for, but with 4K 144+hz IPS 1ms *toolman grunts* monitors retailing around $700 MSRP, does anyone see them dropping in price somewhere in 2021? I'm thinking to upgrade my 2K monitor to 4K and using the 2K one vertically in my setup, but I'm trying to figure if it's better to wait a bit for prices to drop or if my options will be the same a year from now as they are currently.
|
# ¿ Dec 27, 2020 23:08 |
|
Paul MaudDib posted:I don’t think prices will be hugely different in a year tbh. Monitors don’t generally come down quickly enough to make it worth waiting in general, and right now the whole industry is straining just to keep product on the shelf and it probably won’t calm down much until covid is over and people are going back to the office. This is good info, thanks for this. I may just have to take the hit and order the 27GN950-B whenever I see it around MSRP.
|
# ¿ Dec 29, 2020 05:30 |
|
I had the same problem, but my monitor is connected through a Hackintosh so there's not really any hope for me - or at least none that can be guarantee no problems. I ended up buying an Elgato capture card and just load up that app fullscreen and have my Switch plugged into it. It's probably the most expensive "make my life a tiny bit easier" thing I've ever bought.
|
# ¿ Jan 9, 2021 06:14 |
|
Amazon had the LG 27GN950-B renewed in stock for like $730, so I used a bunch of gift cards and rewards point and snatched that up real quick. Looks like it's in stock straight from LG as well: https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-27gn950-b-gaming-monitor Now to figure out the best way to mount two monitors when the desk has no wall behind it. Anything I should be aware of before getting some sort of double-arm screw mount in Amazon?
|
# ¿ Jan 15, 2021 21:44 |
|
DrDork posted:The Amazon Basic arms are pretty good. So is this one worth its price? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics...10745737&sr=8-2 It seems to do exactly what I'd want and need, but if I can get this for not $250, then hell yeah.
|
# ¿ Jan 15, 2021 22:24 |
|
So, Amazon completely boofed my order of the 27GN950-B and the last chat rep I spoke to said it was "missing" from the overall shipment and to give it a few days to be found, but I'm antsy that it's just lost/stolen. However, they had one as "Used: Good" and its condition is labeled as "Missing Bag / Filter. Missing bonus material. Missing manual. Missing software CD. Item will come in original packaging. Packaging will be damaged." This seems to suggest the monitor itself is fine, which is all I care about - I can get more DisplayPort and power cables wherever. I just don't know what they mean by "bag/filter" when talking about its missing items. I've only ever heard filters used when talking about monitors when talking about privacy screens and the like. Is there anything in this listing alone that should be worrisome? I mean, outside of the monitor going missing again, that is.
|
# ¿ Jan 18, 2021 07:01 |
|
DrDork posted:That's just a generic copy/paste condition block text that means "it was opened, the product seems to be there and intact, but we're not making any guarantees about accessories because we honestly couldn't be bothered to check." Like, there is not and never was any "bonus material" with that monitor. Here's hoping. They say they've found my other package, but I'm still not expecting anything to move or be delivered, honestly. Hopefully this "good" one is actually good.
|
# ¿ Jan 18, 2021 23:20 |
|
I got my "good" 27GN950 and I'm pretty sure someone just opened it and then packaged it back up. I can't tell what was used or not - only the power cable was outside of its original packaging. Amazon also thought it was wise to just ship this in the box itself, like blaring "LG GAMING MONITOR" box. Anyway, it's very nice, gonna need some time to get used to this whole "I have 54 inches a solid screen right in front of me" though.
|
# ¿ Jan 19, 2021 23:18 |
|
I'm sure this will be useful to some people, but there's a bug in Bug Sur 11.1 that breaks DSC. You can get up to 4K/120Hz with DP 1.4 non-DSC, but outside of that, you'll have to wait for Apple to fix the bug (which no one seems to be sure if they're fully aware of it or not) or downgrade to <11.1 somehow.
|
# ¿ Jan 21, 2021 06:37 |
|
gamer roomie is 41 posted:A couple pages ago I asked about gaming specs being overkill for a work monitor and found out that I don't need to consider those things, so I went with this one: Oh hey, just to update on this, I got the monitor and, to me, it essentially looks and functions like brand new. The box was clearly not factory sealed, and only the power cable was undone from its factory twist-ties. It looks like someone opened it, plugged it in, decided they didn't need it, and returned it. Worth noting, and outside of its condition, that you definitely wanna hit the "Amazon packaging" button or whatever it says. It came to me straight in the LG box, so a more nefarious Amazon person could've swiped it if they were desperate for a new monitor or something.
|
# ¿ Jan 24, 2021 02:32 |
|
Grapplejack posted:Is that still the best option for a mid-range 27" 1440p or is there a new thread baby? There’s the LG 27GN850 which I’m pretty sure is the same thing, LG just changes parts of the model for the year or something like that. They recently came out with the LG 27GN950 in 2020 that does 2160p/4K, but it’s still hard to find for MSRP. They announced an upgraded version of that that natively supports 165Hz without overclocking. The 950B supports 160Hz with overclocking.
|
# ¿ Jan 27, 2021 00:27 |
|
They 27GN950-B appears to be in stock at Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BCRYS6B?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image I have had nothing but problems trying to order a second monitor with Amazon, so there's that. I'd also suggest hitting the "Ship in Amazon packaging" button if you can. The box it comes in otherwise is the normal rear end LG box. LODGE NORTH fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Jan 27, 2021 |
# ¿ Jan 27, 2021 06:05 |
|
So, I need some creatives. I have a dual monitor setup, two 27GN950s, but boy, the RGB is loving annoying. My monitors aren't facing a wall, so whenever I wake them up, I essentially blind whoever is in the living "area" (it's an apartment). It's hilariously obnoxious. https://i.imgur.com/rcRfhiU.mp4 What options would I have to, like, cover this. e: Spoilered to not blind people, jeez.
|
# ¿ Jan 29, 2021 23:08 |
|
Handsome Ralph posted:oh man that's annoying. This works mostly, like 99% of the issue is solved by this. If you turn it off, it stays off while the computer is awake, but if it goes to sleep or shuts off and the monitors turn off, it blares when you awake it back up or turn the monitors on. Part of me is considering getting two matching monitor lights and then using their mounts on the back of the monitor to attach some black cloth or felt or *something* just to not have it blare like a UFO. mom and dad fight a lot posted:lol, RGB has gotten way the gently caress out of hand. It's absolutely horrible. My GPU is RGB heaven, but I have it facing a wall simply because I don't understand why I would ever want colors just flashing in my face while I'm on the computer.
|
# ¿ Jan 30, 2021 00:28 |
|
I have the dual monitor AmazonBasics one and it's been fine for me ever since I set it up. This one here: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Premium-Dual-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00MIBN71I/ This is the single monitor version: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Premium-Single-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00MIBN16O/ They sell ones that directly mount to the wall as well, but I'm not about to fill this post with Amazon links. The reviews do say there's a problem where the mount itself won't budge, but you just have to use the loosening tool thing a few times, then just work it until it starts to give.
|
# ¿ May 3, 2021 02:07 |
|
Alright y'all. I think a problem I'm having is based more around my monitor and what it is or isn't doing than anything else -- so I'm here trying to understand things. I have a 4K LG monitor, the 27GN950-B. I also have my Switch plugged into it via HDMI, one capable of 4K@60. I recently bought an mClassic, a device meant to upscale the Switch's 1080p to 1440p and do some nice scaling, anti-aliasing stuff etc to get a cleaner picture. I get a slightly cleaner picture...but no 1440p. No way no how. Here's DigitalFoundry's video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-NhX9-_KE0 Based off this video alone, I'm not entirely sure what the problem could potentially be. It states I won't get 4K, but I should be able to get 1440p fine -- but I don't. Here, the creator of the mClassic talks about how enabling 1440p should work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUL1TM8Do-M and another of him using a "hacked" one that enables forcing 1440p: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkcTnVSz0D4 In the video, he shows that forcing 1440p through magically works on the LG TV, so at least the same brand as my monitor, but in other places, the main reason people get stuck at 1080p (like I am, that's what my problem is) is because their TVs don't support 1440p at all unless it's forced -- but my monitor very much does support 1440p (unless there's something else at play when I set any of my devices etc to 1440p and it just...works). I did find a post on ResetEra where a guy explains...a lot of things. None of them really made sense in my head, but he's mostly talking about TV screens, so I can't necessarily imagine why I'd be having this problem on a PC monitor that does indeed support 1440p. Sorry to dump this longpost of info, but I'm just stumped. The mClassic is made in a way where there's nothing on it or about it that I can edit to fix this, so I pretty much know the way it is now won't work. But is there a device, a plug in, some sort of adapter, that I could get that would at least carry the weight in making the device work with my monitor to output 1440p?
|
# ¿ Jun 27, 2021 09:17 |
|
MonkeyFit posted:Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't upscaling directly from 1080p to 4k provide cleaner results than 1080p>1440p>4k? This I do not know. At this point, I’m just confused why it’s not working the way it “should” repiv posted:Have you tried connecting the monitor to your PC over HDMI and setting it to 1440p, to confirm it accepts that? Yeah, I get 1440p over HDMI when testing my PC and then I have my MiSTer (gaming thing) set to output 1440p at 4:3, but I think those options are technically “forcing” it out since they’re display options whereas the mClassic has no options to actually set the desired resolution.
|
# ¿ Jun 27, 2021 16:43 |
|
Thanks, that's what I was suspecting. It's funny -- at leas to me -- upgrading my monitor has this one very specific, niche drawback while everything else is vastly improved. I've ordered that EDID emulator, should be here tomorrow. Hopefully it fixes things and if not, Amazon has a decent return policy. Thanks!
|
# ¿ Jun 27, 2021 18:55 |
|
This thread would know more than I would about the ingrained differences in displays -- specifically the displays themselves, not really any of the "features" that come packed in with monitors and TVs, tablets etc. So, I'm looking to repurpose an old 9.7" screen to build a CRT-like mod... thing. It's this specifically: https://laserbear.net/shop/ols/products/97-lcd-shell/v/9.7LCDC-CRT-BLC The reason this thing exists is because *another* thing I'm into, the MiSTer project, has the ability to support the exact resolution old iPads would be at, 2048x1536. My question is if there's any difference between buying some seemingly unnamed 9.7" screen, IPS, at 2048x1536 versus some official scavenged screen from an actual iPad. I'm asking mostly because of a small section of video in a RetroRGB video where he does the installation with the Laserbear guy himself here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9D_q5HQQE90&t=225s Should be timestamped, but if not, around the 3 minute and 45 second mark. He says "Samsung screens are more coveted, but the LG screens are just about the same." I'm almost certain he means the supplier of the iPad screen, Samsung or LG based off this article on CNET. That being said, what makes the Samsung one "more coveted" than the LG one? I realize they probably are unnoticeably the same, but I'm super curious what would or could make one better if they're devised to have the exact same capabilities. And what could be the difference be between Samsung, LG, and the aforementioned seemingly unnamed 9.7" screen?
|
# ¿ Jul 16, 2021 21:18 |
|
Ultrafine’s are great for work. As far as I know, they max 60hz and have a pretty high response time, but that’s only something you’d care about if you do fast paced gaming a lot. Unless you’ve experienced 120 or 144hz, you wont really even know what 60hz looks like or why it’s “bad” for stuff. Absolutely great for work though.
|
# ¿ Jul 18, 2021 07:05 |
|
Boba Pearl posted:So, I don't know if this is a thing, but is there like wireless monitors, or monitors that run on batteries, or really light weight monitors that have a laptop kind of form factor? You're looking for a "portable monitor" but your use case sounds like a tablet would be a way better option.
|
# ¿ Jul 18, 2021 15:49 |
|
Boba Pearl posted:Can you hook a tablet up to a gaming PC? That'd rule, and be cheap. Well, it's good for everything else except the gaming, ha. Depending on HOW you game though, you could use a tablet to use that xCloud or Steam Link thing. It's just for quick sessions, it shouldn't be too bad. It's similar to my setup, but I'm on a Mac. I use my main Mac for obvious stuff, but then use my iPad as a leisure device to finish up documents away from my computer, but then in my bed sometimes to watch movies or shows etc. I could draw on it too if I had gotten the Apple Pencil. The PC counterpart to this should be easier to do, however. You could use Steam Link, which uses your computer's hardware anyway (and your internet speed etc) to push the game to whatever device (in this case, a tablet) is connected. Then add a stylus to that and you've got access to drawing stuff too. All the big brands have their own model of a keyboard case, like the Tab S7 Bookcase. It adds a keyboard and trackpad to that whole setup if you need one, but it's not mechanical and not really *meant* for gaming, but I'm sure it'll suffice. Hell, you could even get one of those weird Windows tablet/laptop combo things. Then you can just run any exe, but if gaming is your main thing, Steam Link may be your best option since it's not limited by the device's hardware. That being said, the tablet route is a lot of money, but it does semi-solve the wireless thing. It kills the need to move any wires and makes all of your stuff accessible wirelessly, but in that, you're buying a tablet, a keyboard + trackpad case, and then configuring everything. The portable monitor would just be a more lightweight monitor that's exactly what you're after. Lightweight, portable, has a built-in kickstand so it can plop anywhere, can run off a USB-C cable for power.
|
# ¿ Jul 18, 2021 16:57 |
|
Boba Pearl posted:If you don't mind, I'm going to take a few pictures of my goon hovel, because I'm wondering if one of those rotating arms could help? Given the overall space of your setup, it might be easier to make or set up various "stations" to do whatever it is you'd need to. Or, if you have the means to, you could change your desk to something more stable and add a monitor with a long arm, using the second monitor as a dual-display setup on the current build. You get one that goes into the desk itself, then you just swing it over to the futon when you want to play there. You could also pair that with a bluetooth keyboard, mouse, and/or controller, or just carry over the ones you have now there, but then you just add the burden of their respective cables. If you wanted to either be more or less insane, I can't figure out which, you could get a monitor paired with an arm to go here: I'm assuming that HDMI cable is for the monitor when you move it, but here it would connect to the monitor, and then just power it through a wall outlet somewhere. You may need to buy a longer one, I'm assuming, but they're usually under $10 on Amazon. These are all just ideas to save some space, really. The tablet idea eliminates the need for the wire-desk, and with its case, eliminates the wires needed for the keyboard and mouse. The monitor arm idea with the more stable desk saves the most space, maybe, as it doesn't alter some other thing in the space, but allows you to move the monitor to where you may need it. The monitor next to the TV idea only really eliminates the need for the wire desk, but keeps everything else where it is. Another easier idea may be just getting a portable desk and put some furniture moving pads under the legs so it can slide to and fro easily. If you mess with cabling to allow things to move freely everywhere in the room, it saves the most money, but then also lets you use your same desk with the same equipment anywhere you'd need it to be. Cabling may be the biggest issue here, though.
|
# ¿ Jul 18, 2021 18:50 |
|
Nemo2342 posted:So I just upgraded my second monitor, however the monitor stand I was using doesn't seem to have a long enough arm for me to angle the screen the way I want. Can anyone recommend something that will hold a 25" monitor and has an arm that's 17" or longer? I'm basically trying to set up my monitors like this: /-- where the two edges line up. I figure I'm probably going to have to adapt a 3 monitor stand, but thought I'd ask her first before I buy something. Does your diagram mean the bottom of the monitors are more outward, toward you? I feel like any dual monitor set should be able to do that. I have the AmazonBasics premium one and it goes about every which way possible. Speaking of monitors, here in the monitor thread, does anyone have any non-makeshift solutions to get rid of the gap between monitors? I took a photo of the back to show that I mean the physical gap, not something software based or related to the bezels. I could use some tape but that’s kinda makeshift. The monitors can be held together in place if I were to grab both sides and lightly push them together, but when let go, boom, gap.
|
# ¿ Jul 24, 2021 18:36 |
|
tehinternet posted:So I’m a former computer toucher and the way you get them lined up is push one of them a little more towards the other than would make them line up. When you let go (like you mention above) and it pushes away a bit, then you can line them up. Ha, that is indeed me. And thanks for the offer! I think I managed to figure it out, though. I think. If we take the side of the left one as space 1 and the side of the right one as space 10, then the problem is there’s a gap at 5. So I pushed the left one over a bit to 6, then pushed the right one to where 4 would be, and that kinda did the trick. All is well now.
|
# ¿ Jul 24, 2021 22:20 |
|
Nemo2342 posted:I want one monitor in the center facing me, and the other off to the side at an angle so I can view the entire screen. Ahhh, I get what you mean -- I'm just no real help here, unfortunately. However, I think my basic understanding of math might help. I'm getting all the upcoming numbers from here: http://www.screen-size.info/index.html If you have two 25 inch monitors, the width of one is about 22 inches, so two total would be 44 inches. To have one centered, you'd need to eat into that middle 22. Right now, if your monitor on the left at an angle is only going to about 20 inches total, the total width would be about 20 + 22 (since you can put the screen in the middle) then we can assume the other side can fit 20 too. So 20 + 22 + 20 gives you about 62 inches but add the bezels, probably closer to 64 inches. Using that 64" guesstimate, putting the 22 inch wide one in the middle. 64 - 22 = 42, so you're sitting right now with 21" [22] 21" which explains the overlap. This next part is assumption, but it should be groovy. Your current stand, assuming it has a max width of 64 inches for two 25" diagonally screens (width being around 22") then it gives you about 16" to play with. A 32" screen sits about 28" wide, so if you got the same brand, but one marketed to fit two 32" screens, and like, copy and paste the numbers and allotments etc above, a 32" dual stand would allow for a total width of 28". If we assume two 32" screens would produce the same problem above, it would sit like 26 - 28 - 26...on a 32" monitor. In your case, if you got it for your 25" ones, it would sit 29 [22] 29, which gives you more than enough space to fit your left monitor at and angle and then some. All of this may be wrong, but I think it's right. ------- That being said, if the mount isn't already...mounted...you could move the mount slightly to the left since you should have more than enough space to move the center monitor to the right as it stands (ha) now. Then, the more the mount is moved to the left, and the more the center monitor is moved to the right -- of the mount itself -- the more space you give yourself on the left to move that monitor about. This is a long effort post. I'm not even good at math, but I hope this is all right.
|
# ¿ Jul 25, 2021 05:27 |
|
So, my monitors, when I first got them a few months ago, naturally came with their stands and such. However, I immediately plopped them into my monitor stand, so, like What do I do with these? Do I just donate them somewhere...?
|
# ¿ Aug 7, 2021 22:23 |
|
TheDK posted:Put them back in the box, then put the boxes in your attic/closet with all the other tech boxes you've been hoarding for the one day you maybe sell something but secretly know you'll just keep moving from house to house forever sorry this got personal I may just put them in the luggage that we bought for the eventual vacation we'll never actually go on
|
# ¿ Aug 7, 2021 23:32 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 20, 2024 03:26 |
|
Have an odd question, but could someone share where the serial number is on LG (specifically UltraGear) monitor boxes? I've looked up pictures, watched a few unboxings, but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Are they shipped/sold without including it on the box itself?
|
# ¿ Jan 5, 2022 23:58 |