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As a Texas goon. I am -- after this utterly poo poo week -- about to change my approach to emergency prep, hopefully without descending into  or tacticool wankery.Do we have a thread dedicated to emergency tools/equipment recs? I looked at this and the outdoor subforum but didn't see anything that popped out. If I missed it, I apologize -- I've had no clean water to wash my face :shepicide
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Feb 22, 2021 01:25
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have to clean out the damned switch on my Bosch 1617 routers so often I can tear them down in about 4 minutes now. I also had to replace the main spindle bearing on one of them-it's less than 3 years old and it's not like it's running for hours a day (or even week). Pretty grumpy about them atm. Big fan of Makita 3HP plunge, but I also picked up for chump change, a smaller Hitachi with dual-base option and variable speed (which my old Makita doesn't have).
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Feb 22, 2021 01:25
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Trabant posted:As a Texas goon. I am -- after this utterly poo poo week -- about to change my approach to emergency prep, hopefully without descending into Please post you survival tools and preparations here, so I don't have to go find some other thread.
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Feb 22, 2021 01:33
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Trabant posted:As a Texas goon. I am -- after this utterly poo poo week -- about to change my approach to emergency prep, hopefully without descending into I mean....what do you think you need? Is this "generator and fuel storage, maybe some water storage" or "oh poo poo, houses should be insulated even if its normally hot here" or what? This could cross over into a ton of threads that already exist.
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Feb 22, 2021 01:37
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Motronic posted:I mean....what do you think you need? Some version of the former, at least for my purposes. Living in a condo means there's only so much I can change infrastructure-wise, so I'm looking to do what I can with power/water/heat/etc. In other words, I'm looking at power banks and 5-gallon jugs, others are probably looking at gasoline generators and 50-gallon drums. That's why I figured I might learn from a dedicated thread. If there isn't one but there's enough interest, I'll start one. Maybe we can crowdsource some wisdom.
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Feb 22, 2021 01:56
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Trabant posted:Some version of the former, at least for my purposes. Living in a condo means there's only so much I can change infrastructure-wise, so I'm looking to do what I can with power/water/heat/etc. oh when you said Texas I assumed you were on a big cattle ranch. For a condo I can help! I got one of these at the beginning of the eternal crisis, it works great for emergency power in a pinch (if you have a balcony?) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF6dR8fSGvU
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Feb 22, 2021 02:01
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GIP's got an emergency preparedness thread https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3941131
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Feb 22, 2021 02:18
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If you have a power tool collection, all the major brands have some sort of inverter tool for them which can provide limited power. The one I have for my Milwaukee M18 batteries kept my gas water heater thermostat and power vent fan going, and could also be used to power USB devices if I needed it. If you don't have a huge surplus of power tool batteries to use, you can always buy a dedicated power bank. The Goal Zero kits are highly thought of, although I have not used/owned one. They also support solar panels and charging from a vehicle if needed (via accessories). They have different models that provide different amounts of power. None of them will power a whole house for 3 days like we just had to suffer through, but you could keep a fridge going or maybe use an appliance or two for a while. However, to give you an idea how limited battery storage options are: the largest capacity Goal Zero power station is 6000 Wh and costs $5,000. That will power a generic 1500 watt space heater for 4 hours before being depleted. So without some form of power coming into it like from solar panels, or a generator, no power station backup would have kept the heat on. For heat you're going to need something like a propane or kerosene heater. As the owner of a kerosene heater, I would recommend a propane solution, like a Mr. Buddy heater. The biggest issue with these heaters is they release carbon monoxide and that poo poo will kill you if you're not careful. So you need to have some way to ventilate your condo. I used my kerosene heater sparingly during the day (never when I was asleep) and made sure to let in some fresh air every once in a while. Additionally I kept a carbon monoxide detector near me at all times. These solutions also require you to keep some emergency fuel laying around. Propane stores indefinitely and can be used to grill with too, which is another reason I recommend a propane heating solution. Just make sure you get your tank topped off before every winter if you're using it for grilling or what have you. If you're in a condo that supports having a generator, IE a balcony, I highly recommend a propane generator as well. I personally just bought a Honda EU2200i that has been converted to run on Propane and Natural gas. I am going to add a natural gas outlet from my house into my garage so that I can run a hose out from there to the generator to power it. If my natural gas fails, I can run it off a propane tank. at 2200 starting watts, it can run a single 1500 watt space heater as long as I have gas going to it. To get the power from the generator outside into my house, I will be installing a small transfer switch that will let me divert it's power to a few circuits like my gas furnace, fridge, gas water heater, and a bedroom. Another thing to keep in mind when shopping for a generator is noise. You probably don't want to be an rear end in a top hat blasting everyone's eardrums while the power is out and everybody is sitting in silence and freezing, so pony up the extra money for an inverter generator, or one that is reasonably quiet. If you're in a sketchy part of town, this also helps keep you from being robbed of your generator. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 02:24
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Thank you all for suggestions -- I'm already checking out the GiP thread for ideas. Re: heating, I'm generally SOL when it comes to any fuel-burning solution. The condo rules prohibit it, and even if I were to flaunt that by sticking a generator on the balcony, someone would turn me in. And to be honest, I wouldn't even be upset: the building has 43 floors and if they allowed any burners to be used, we would've gone up in flames long ago. Hell, we once had a floor basically flood due to the sprinkler system being extra-aggressive against a person's... candlemaking attempt. They started melting the wax or something, left it on the stove as they went to pick up a friend from the airport, and oops! That's not even considering the CO, which probably would've killed dozens by now. We just can't be trusted. I think we can handle the potential lack of heat, but my major concerns are potable water, ability to keep phones charged, and basic toilet hygiene. That's where I'll focus, at least to start and/or until we move to a single-family home.
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Feb 22, 2021 04:21
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SpartanIvy posted:If you have a power tool collection, all the major brands have some sort of inverter tool for them which can provide limited power. The one I have for my Milwaukee M18 batteries kept my gas water heater thermostat and power vent fan going, and could also be used to power USB devices if I needed it. When there's a power outage, it's all sketchy town. Also, if you own a generator, periodically check it during normal times to make sure it's available if/when it's needed. Like 2 people I know sorta didn't do.
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Feb 22, 2021 05:03
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This question is about chucks. The ones on drills. Let's say you've got one of these things: https://www.amazon.ca/Milescraft-1318-DrillMate-Drill-Guide/dp/B014A1Z92I The chuck says 1.5 - 10mm 3/8 - 24 UNF. And if I wanted to replace the chuck with a keyless one, the important thing I care about is getting one that is also 3/8 24unf, right? Is that the important bit of information? I don't know chucks. Will this chuck fit that drill guide? https://www.amazon.ca/HFS-Keyless-Drill-Drills-Thread/dp/B07G3TS6XR
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Feb 22, 2021 16:41
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Trabant posted:As a Texas goon. I am -- after this utterly poo poo week -- about to change my approach to emergency prep, hopefully without descending into I like this for disaster prep: https://www.theplacewithnoname.com/blogs/klessons/p/0004.html It's less potable water and generator and more total disaster (think hurricanes, floods, fire), but has a lot of good stuff to think about.
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Feb 22, 2021 16:57
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DreadLlama posted:This question is about chucks. The ones on drills. Yea I'd say its a safe assumption that the thread on the back of the chuck is 3/8 - 24 UNF if it says that somewhere. That means 3/8 diameter, 24 threads per inch for the threads. Yes that other one will prob fit. Why on earth would you want to replace a key'd check with a not key'd chuck, especially a POS like the one you linked?
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Feb 22, 2021 22:40
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If I use a manual screwdriver and don't want to scratch the paint off cheaper screws, is there something people generally use to put over the screw before I insert the screwdriver and twist? I hate it when you have some all-black setup and the screws are some crap that go metal right away, which stands out like crazy.
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Feb 23, 2021 00:26
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ufarn posted:If I use a manual screwdriver and don't want to scratch the paint off cheaper screws, is there something people generally use to put over the screw before I insert the screwdriver and twist? This doesn't happen when you use a quality screwdriver of the appropriate size. Both philips and flat heads have sizes, although it seems few people know that. Higher quality flat drivers/bits are also "hollow ground" which provides a better mating interface.
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Feb 23, 2021 00:32
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I'm looking to change up my sharpening setup a little for chisels and plane irons. I currently have 3 DMT diamond stones (extra course, fine, extra-fine), which have worked pretty well for a while now. I've been rehabbing a bunch of old hand planes and chisels and it's taken a toll on the extra course especially. I think at this point, I'm mainly looking for guidance on something to help flatten the backs and establish the initial primary bevel that may work faster than my extra-course DMT. I'm leaning towards a cool grinding disc on a standard full speed 6" grinder (I already have the grinder), and possibly a course wet stone like the Shapton Pro 220. Any thoughts or opinions? I've been waffling if its necessary to step up to an 8" slow speed grinder like the Rikon 80-805, or just slap a $25 aluminum oxide wheel on my current grinder.
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Feb 23, 2021 01:19
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CarForumPoster posted:Yea I'd say its a safe assumption that the thread on the back of the chuck is 3/8 - 24 UNF if it says that somewhere. That means 3/8 diameter, 24 threads per inch for the threads. Yes that other one will prob fit. Because I keep losing the key. If that keyless chuck sucks, what's a good one? edit: Is this one better? https://www.amazon.ca/0-8-10mm-Chuck%EF%BC%8C3-Keyless-Professional-Electric/dp/B07TVDF5L4 DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Feb 23, 2021 |
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Feb 23, 2021 01:43
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I like this for disaster prep: Whoo boy, that's a lot of words. Good ones though -- thanks!
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Feb 23, 2021 03:20
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DreadLlama posted:Because I keep losing the key. If that keyless chuck sucks, what's a good one? I can’t tell you what the runout of a chuck is by appearance and the specs are probably lying. Can buy it and install it and put in a ground pin and take the readout of it. Or you could tie the key to the machine I’ve seen the same design of chuck have .001” TIR and .010”TIR The former is decent the latter is trash.
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Feb 24, 2021 04:36
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I would recommend buying from your local tool place or an online industrial supply site like msc or mcmaster so you know what you're getting vs amazon where you'll get God knows what.
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Feb 24, 2021 05:09
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i love the local used tools listings
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Feb 24, 2021 05:46
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Rutibex posted:i love the local used tools listings Mine are always just "good condition" where the photo clearly shows a tool that has been mistreated to within an inch of its life.
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Feb 24, 2021 07:13
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~Coxy posted:Mine are always just "good condition" where the photo clearly shows a tool that has been mistreated to within an inch of its life. And listed for anywhere between 95-150% of the price I can get it delivered new, to my door, from an online store. That scraper, for example, looks a lot like the one I can get brand new at Harbor Freight for about $10 after coupon.
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Feb 24, 2021 15:41
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SpartanIvy posted:For heat you're going to need something like a propane or kerosene heater. As the owner of a kerosene heater, I would recommend a propane solution, like a Mr. Buddy heater. The biggest issue with these heaters is they release carbon monoxide and that poo poo will kill you if you're not careful. So you need to have some way to ventilate your condo. I used my kerosene heater sparingly during the day (never when I was asleep) and made sure to let in some fresh air every once in a while. Additionally I kept a carbon monoxide detector near me at all times. These solutions also require you to keep some emergency fuel laying around. Propane stores indefinitely and can be used to grill with too, which is another reason I recommend a propane heating solution. Just make sure you get your tank topped off before every winter if you're using it for grilling or what have you. The indoor versions of the propane/ natural gas heaters are "supposed" to be clean burning with no carbon monoxide emissions. Natural gas and propane both burn clean if running correctly and the larger concern is typically oxygen in the air dropping too low. The reaction of burning consumes oxygen and creates water vapor and CO2 as a by product. If oxygen gets too low then you have issues with carbon monoxide creation. I have two natural gas ventless burners in my basement I run when I'm down there in the winter. I also have multiple carbon monoxide sensors at floor level (carbon monoxide is heavier than air) and I've never had one go off. I always crack a window and have fans to move air around. It's one of those things where there ARE risks but you can be safe about it easily if you just take basic precautions (move air, crack a window, be aware of yourself - headaches, woozy, etc.. which are clear signs that O2 is low, CO2 is maybe high, carbon monoxide is high, etc...). Don't run the heater at night when sleeping. Speaking of which, any sort of preparedness should include a good sleeping bag. It's zero energy required and you can get bags that sleep down to -30F.
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Feb 24, 2021 17:02
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Falco posted:I'm looking to change up my sharpening setup a little for chisels and plane irons. I currently have 3 DMT diamond stones (extra course, fine, extra-fine), which have worked pretty well for a while now. I've been rehabbing a bunch of old hand planes and chisels and it's taken a toll on the extra course especially. I think at this point, I'm mainly looking for guidance on something to help flatten the backs and establish the initial primary bevel that may work faster than my extra-course DMT. I'm leaning towards a cool grinding disc on a standard full speed 6" grinder (I already have the grinder), and possibly a course wet stone like the Shapton Pro 220. Any thoughts or opinions? I've been waffling if its necessary to step up to an 8" slow speed grinder like the Rikon 80-805, or just slap a $25 aluminum oxide wheel on my current grinder.
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Feb 24, 2021 19:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You might get more opinions in the woodworking thread. A grinder is good for establishing the bevel (6” with a good wheel is fine really) but isn’t going to help with flattening stuff at all. Norton makes some good cool cutting wheels. Tools for working wood sells them. Maybe like some good 80 grit sandpaper stuck to glass or a machine table or something for flattening big thing? When my diamonds get slow, scrubbing them with a toothbrush and mineral spirits or soapy water followed by blasting with a garden hose helps unclog them. This is what I would do. I had to do a double-take to verify you wanted to flatten with a wheel.
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Feb 24, 2021 20:12
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I also use a standard speed grinder for establishing my initial bevel, I think it's a white Norton 80 grit. Then I go straight to my extra fine DMT, then i do a final pass on some 1 micron diamond paste on a lapping plate.
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Feb 25, 2021 02:29
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You might get more opinions in the woodworking thread. A grinder is good for establishing the bevel (6” with a good wheel is fine really) but isn’t going to help with flattening stuff at all. Norton makes some good cool cutting wheels. Tools for working wood sells them. Maybe like some good 80 grit sandpaper stuck to glass or a machine table or something for flattening big thing? When my diamonds get slow, scrubbing them with a toothbrush and mineral spirits or soapy water followed by blasting with a garden hose helps unclog them. Cannon_Fodder posted:This is what I would do. I had to do a double-take to verify you wanted to flatten with a wheel. Meow Meow Meow posted:I also use a standard speed grinder for establishing my initial bevel, I think it's a white Norton 80 grit. Then I go straight to my extra fine DMT, then i do a final pass on some 1 micron diamond paste on a lapping plate. Thank you guys, I realize I was really asking two different questions, but didn't make that clear. The first being using a grinder to establish the bevel, and the other was how to flatten the back of chisels and plane blades. It sounds like a cool running stone on my 6" grinder will work fine, just need to choose between a white aluminum oxide, and one of Norton's more expensive 3X stones. I'll give my extra course DMT a good scrubbing to see if this helps unclog it and getting it cutting a bit faster again to tackle the flattening duties. Thank you for the suggestions! One additional question, maybe specifically to Meow Meow, Meow. Do you use anything special in terms of a guide or support on the grinder to keep the blade running across the stone straight? I've seen various jig/tool setups from Tormek, Vertias, Wolverine, or knock off's from Amazon. They all seem a bit more geared toward turning tools, and wasn't sure if they were necessary or very helpful when it comes to chisels and plane blades.
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Feb 25, 2021 20:38
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This is probably the right place to ask, I'm looking to set up dust collection for a belt grinder/sander and also adapt it for use with other power tools. Ideally I want to use the same thing, which is good for hot metal grinding sparks as well as timber etc. I can't remember the name of it but there's stuff that you use on CNC machines for coolant spray, it's like an interlocked blue hose kinda deal. Does something like that exist but bigger?
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Feb 26, 2021 07:17
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 I donno if I would want hot metal sparks going into the same bin as the sawdust
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Feb 26, 2021 07:24
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Loc-line is the coolant system you're thinking of. They make larger segmented hoses like this one : https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00387696
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Feb 26, 2021 07:31
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Rutibex posted:
Yeah this is a terminally bad idea.
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Feb 26, 2021 10:19
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cakesmith handyman posted:Yeah this is a terminally bad idea. Maybe damping down the sawdust with some linseed oil soaked rags would help
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Feb 26, 2021 11:49
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Vindolanda posted:Maybe damping down the sawdust with some linseed oil soaked rags would help Hook up a cooling mist of gasoline! And LocLine is $$$, the are knockoffs, but nothing interchanges, so caveat emptor.
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Feb 26, 2021 13:01
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sharkytm posted:Hook up a cooling mist of gasoline! If you're a 3d printer nerd there are plenty of free designs to make your own in whatever size and colour you desire.
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Feb 26, 2021 13:04
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Rutibex posted:
Yeah lol I worded that wrong. Normally I run the grinder with a water bucket underneath it and it's more that the dust extraction is there to catch the finer particles that get airborne. E: what I more meant was that it could resist hot grinds going through it if it had to, but it's not the primary use case McSpergin fucked around with this message at 13:18 on Feb 26, 2021 |
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Feb 26, 2021 13:09
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Anyway that's kinda what I had in mind. Ideally I want it to sit perpendicular to the belt so that it catches the fine dust, with the sparks doing into the water bucket this stuff Cheers for the help, that's the stuff I was looking for but didn't know the name
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Feb 26, 2021 13:15
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I use metal dryer duct. It's flexible and can be bent into shape. It works really well, and I see it in use in machine shops regularly, usually in conjunction with a fan to suck the dust away. You could also cover the inside of the stuff you linked with metal ducting tape (not regular duct tape) to keep the sparks from melting it. StuffMadeHere did this with his plasma cutter vent and it's holding up.
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Feb 26, 2021 13:25
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McSpergin posted:Yeah lol I worded that wrong. Normally I run the grinder with a water bucket underneath it and it's more that the dust extraction is there to catch the finer particles that get airborne. Just a thought - if you have a grinding room with an air cleaning system (which if you’re doing enough grinding to give it thought you probably should) then there can be issues of wood flour building up in the filters and either damp causing spontaneous combustion or a big and enterprising metal spark making its way into the filter full of tinder.
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Feb 26, 2021 13:29
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Falco posted:
I built a toolrest for my grinder because the stock one was garbage and didn't want to spend money on the veritas one (even though it looks really nice). I just eyeball it for for running across straight. If the blade is already 90* then its fairly easy to match. Also, I do a secondary bevel using an honing guide, so if I do grind it a bit off, the secondary bevel and honing guide squares and straightens it back up. Im not really too picky about it, I just want to get a sharp edge and back to woodworking as quick as possible. Here's the guide I made, fixed at 25 degrees. 
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Feb 26, 2021 19:47
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