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How awful can a harbor freight sawzall be? I use one about 2x a year, the batteries for my Hitachi cordless one just aren't cutting it any more. Is the motor going to explode and leave me with no hands?
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Jun 16, 2014 00:50
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| # ¿ Apr 18, 2024 18:57 |
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The One I Saw Was 20 I've gotten numbness from using my dad's Milwaukee cutting 20 4x4 fence posts off to size. Like 8 said I'd be using pretty irregularly hence wanting harbor freight. For example today I was building a playhouse out of pallets and a saw all would have helped cut a few pieces instead of dicking around with my circular saw.
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Jun 16, 2014 01:56
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Dragyn posted:...Speaking of vibration injuries. My dad has one of these oscillating tools and I will use literally anything else to avoid using it. Yeah I've used one and gone numb in 5 min
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Jun 18, 2014 02:01
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Splizwarf posted:What's the third thread-recommended cordless tool brand after Milwaukee and Makita? It's not Ryobi, is it? A friend is asking me for advice and the things he wants initially are a string trimmer, a hedge trimmer, and a small chainsaw; the first two tools put Milwaukee out of the running because they don't appear to make 'em. Scroll saws are used to cut intracate things for models or joints etc. generally thickness of 1" or less. Band saws are used for a bit "rougher" work or cutting boards / lumber and allowing some ability to turn the piece.
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Jun 18, 2014 20:59
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Ocilating tools are awesome especially for dealing with weird cuts.
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Aug 9, 2014 00:39
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Sointenly posted:So HF wouldnt take a 20% off coupon on any of the BF items. The coupons says "not valid for in store events" which probably was what got me. Honestly you're better off IMO. I used a 12" compound slider (not mine) when putting up a deck and it just felt like garbage.. On day 2 I grabbed my $99 Hitachi non-slider and did 90% of the work with it instead of the HF one. I can't remember the particulars. but it was hard to keep straight, it was out of adjustment a lot. The guard was being a pain in the rear end for larger pieces of wood. the exhaust port clogged up quickly.. I already have an old sears rip saw so the slider isn't a big deal to me but honestly if I needed to cut something wider than my 12" could cut normally I'd pull out my circular saw and go from there. Rotary tools are amazing.. one of those things you keep saying to yourself "when am I really going to use this" then you get one and it gets used a lot more. On my list next is one o them thurr fancy oscillating tools.
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Dec 2, 2014 19:32
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I know how awesome they are I've used one for the same mentioned deck project where we had to notch some wood and it worked like a champ ive had several projects where having one would have saved time.
tater_salad fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Dec 3, 2014 |
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Dec 3, 2014 01:36
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Sointenly posted:So there's this. At 23 bux for a can of gas how much do these use?
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Dec 15, 2014 21:24
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I didn't read thr amazon description long enough to see it was a 4 pack
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Dec 16, 2014 00:48
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Woo hoo my wife got my Christmas present and I couldn't help but see the 22' werner multi ladder in the garage when I got home tonight. Is there a reason to get a different brand like little giant or something else? Also adulthood is odd.. 16 year old me would have scoffed at getting a ladder for Christmas
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Dec 18, 2014 04:58
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Ive got a step ladder and an aluminum extension ladder but I love how easy the multi laders are.. especially since I have vaulted ceilings upstairs... to get my ext ladder upstairs id probably need to feed it through a window my stairs have a narrow tight 90° bend. Ive used a multi lader before and my only complaint is they are hell on feet if you are painting with them
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Dec 18, 2014 17:44
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Whale Cancer posted:My wife wants to buy me a miter saw for xmas. Can anyone tell me if this one is any good for home diy stuff. I've owned a similar saw for a while and it seed light use. I've nevet had a complaint about how it works. This is the saw I used in my story a few posts ago about a poo poo harbor freight saw.
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Dec 22, 2014 16:56
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Dragyn posted:This is probably the closest thing I can find to a "should I buy this?" thread. DO NOT GET A SINGLE STAGE Do you live in maryland where you need to clear 3" of snow once or twice a year? Yes: single stage is fine have at it No: go with 2 stage. You will not save your back trying to shove a single stage into snow that's deep.. you will.noy efficiently be moving any snow deeper than 3-6 inches. And you def won't be pushing past the snow (structural concrete) that the plow leaves on the apron. Source:im from buffalo and know that single stage snow blowers are a joke and mostly useless when they are really needed.
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Dec 30, 2014 04:32
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snickles posted:I got a bostitch 6 gallon compressor from my father in law for Christmas and when he was demonstrating it to me, he showed me his air gun. After returning home I bought a Kobalt branded air gun and it seems, well, leaky. The air pressure at the tip seems much lower than the one he had and a significant amount of air is lost via lateral holes on the air gun. Is this normal and I'm just misremembering the power of my f-i-l's air gun? When you say airgun, do you mean? Air Nailer Air Sprayer Air Impact Wrench Crossman BB Air gun?
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Jan 1, 2015 17:26
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If it's leaking out of the side its either not tight enough or its broken. Did you use Teflon tape on the joints? Were you using the same psi?
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Jan 1, 2015 19:40
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snickles posted:I do not know what PSI he was using but increasing it only seems to increase the loss out of the sides. I don't understand the design of the nozzles but the air holes appear intentional. The threaded parts are taped and there isn't any leakage that I can tell. There doesn't appear to be leakage around the quick-fit connector either. If you look at the brass nozzle in this picture you can see some holes on the side well beyond what would be seated in the fitting. The extension nozzle also has these holes. The rubber tipped nozzle doesn't have these holes and has a more robust airflow. Those look dumb no clue why there are holes in the sides. If your fils set didnt have this then his would def be more powerful.
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Jan 2, 2015 13:18
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Can we put in the op that the hf slider is a huge piece of poo poo.
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Jan 11, 2015 15:00
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Just so you know at least in nys if you make less than 200% of your areas median income you can get a free audit. Other cold states may also have similar programs
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Jan 23, 2015 03:29
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Based on the bathrobe.. these are pancakes. Still in the cake family but not a dessert cake.
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Jan 26, 2015 18:01
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stealie72 posted:Awesome thread. Sup brother from the same mother..... Ive got a erner folding multi position ladder and it sucks if you are on it for a long period of time.. boots help a lot.. I painted a few rooms with it in socks and never again. I think the load is 300lbs. Milwakre circular saw is the bomb for a not every day use.. its what I have.. And for a miter if you want a non slider I find my hitachi that you can get for 100 or less is good for weekend warrior stuff. Ive used a harbor freight slider and brought my hitachi because it was awful For coreless the m12 seems to be the hotness in this thread.. ive got a lot of old hitachi stuff but as the batteries die out illl probably upgrade to the m12s since they are litium. The m12s usually have good black friday or other sale packages.. usually buy a kit get a free tool. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 17:52 on May 4, 2015 |
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May 4, 2015 17:37
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Was just at everyones fave single use tool outlet and was given flyers sating that June 5&6 is the cheap tools extravaganza at harbor freight.
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May 23, 2015 02:33
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Catfish Stevens posted:Harbor Freight is having a 20% off sale for memorial day weekend. I need a tap and die set, time to toss the dice. 1 item with coupon.
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May 23, 2015 17:18
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I own thia good saw.. my fil has a harbor freight sliding miter and I went home and got this becauwe I couldnt use his piece o crap. This will be a good workhorse for daily use it just has some limitations on what it can cut. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Jun 20, 2015 |
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Jun 20, 2015 00:33
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^^^this is a real thing and it sucks.. When I was doing a deck I got a cheap foam cooler and made a "charge cooler" with chargers on one side and 2 freeze packs on the other.
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Aug 20, 2015 13:53
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Laminator posted:Welp time to drain the batteries and keep them inside Don't drain them to 0 because if they go below a minimum charge they'll die.
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Aug 21, 2015 23:54
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http://amzn.to/1Ef6Skq Is this going to be a piece of poo poo? It's less expensive than a harbor freight plunge router. I'm aspiring to start doing some woodworking. I've made a few items but want to round the edges. And it seems like a router is the way to go. I want a plunge router to make some interior cuts too. I'd be using it for maybe 5-10 pieces for my kids made from pine. If I'm any good at it I plan making stuff out of wood for sale on etsy or locally. At that point I'd want to upgrade to something not sucky and probably get a table /make jigs and all that jazz. Edit: also I'm cheap and like to spend as little money as possible. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Aug 25, 2015 |
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Aug 25, 2015 03:28
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That's kind of what I figured after looking into it a bit more after posting I realized that I don't need a plunge anything I am using it for will be okay to tip the router into, cutting a big hole in something or rounding edges are going to be the 2 primary uses I think. I also totally get the point of buying a good one now because basically you get to relearn how to use a good one instead of a fiddly poo poo one.
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Aug 25, 2015 05:05
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If the porter cable is able to go to plunge with a different base it looks like it'll cost about another 100-150 for the base.
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Aug 25, 2015 12:38
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I wouldn't care about depth of cut adjustments foe the pkunge.. but.... I'd want it to hold the depth setting for the bit. Ie the rounding bit would need to be set so the flat piece isn't sitting 8n contact with the wood. the only reason I wanted plunge was to make the interior cuts easier so I didn't need to tip in.. I'm not going to set the depth At 2 3/4.. maybe.. just maybe I'd do a joint or two but that would be possible with a fixed base. For now I'd like to be able to cut out a pattern and use it to follow that then round edges of the finished product. For the do it by hand guy.. I mean you can start a car by hand too! I'd be looking at rounding around around 80 feet of edges each time I made one of these things. Plus if I end up making a stove or fridge play set using a chisel to knock out a 2 sq foot hole by hand in a piece of wood is not super exciting. If a $40 router worked I would rather do that especially since I've got like $15 in amazon bucks. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Aug 26, 2015 |
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Aug 26, 2015 01:59
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I'd be making playhouses (play stands) and wooden kitchens or other playsets. I want to do it primarily for my kids but wouldn't mind making them for others if I make jigs \templates The thing is that most of these qooden setsnthat aren't poo poo (mdf and fiber) use the word "waldorf" which adds like 50% to the price of what they should be.
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Aug 26, 2015 05:05
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Yes I know they will but again if a $50 tool and a $60 set of bits worked well enough to keep me from having to do the extra cleanup from a circular saw I figured why not. My next step if I can get folks interested is to make a proper jig for the cuts with my circular saw. That way I'm not spending 1/2 the time making them adjusting my circular saw guides and lining up drill holes.
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Aug 26, 2015 15:43
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So after poking around for best bang for my buck around I picked up a craftsman router the other day and so far seems good. 109 gets a 12 amp motor with soft start replaceable brushes and work lights. Fixed and plunge bases. I haven't played much with the plunge but it seems to hold its adjustments well. Unless you use the motor release and clamp it back again. (No clue why you'd do this) The collet nut is a bit sticky you think it's hand tight and let go of the bit and it drops in. This makes putting the bit in tricky and you need 3 hands to make it easy.. I'm going to clean it all up and see if I got some dust or a burr in there. Also included Carrying bag with interior pockets and straps. Dust collector with an adapter for hose sizes. Edge guide. Next step is to flush out my bit collection.. picked up a starter ryobi kit. My plan is to replace bits that break with bosch or smilar. Also pick up a 1" long flush trim bit with bottom bearing How are mlcs bits? They seem like they're really into woodworking and tools but never heard of em until I saw bits on amazon / their store.
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Sep 6, 2015 15:19
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Okay I'll check out Freud bits
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Sep 6, 2015 18:18
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Makita is a good brand Track saws apparently are all the rage with the kids these days. So I don't think you are an idiot.. unless you don't plan on cutting wood things in your lifetime then you are dumb.
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Sep 17, 2015 15:53
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Welp they all have their strong points Circular & guide: kinda does it all at an okay rate, will not work with small pieces though. Miter: good for cutting 2x wood (construction lumber) and small boards okay for smaller pieces. Table: good for ripping long / wide pices to length. Pretty good with smaller pieces. If you want to do any cabinetry (furniture) add a router to your list. Radial arm: pretty good combo for table and miter.. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Sep 18, 2015 |
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Sep 18, 2015 00:36
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I sold my radial arm in favor of a table saw because it scared me when ripping wood. I also have a circular saw, band and miter so I didn't see the need for a 5th saw. With the radial you have 2 choices when it's 90 degrees and you are ripping. Feed from the back where it'll grab the wood and shoot it like a rocket. Feed from the front where kickback is a serious bitch. Radial arm saws aren't around very much any more.. there's a reason, other saws can do a better safer job IMO. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Sep 18, 2015 |
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Sep 18, 2015 02:00
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King Hotpants posted:If I had to own one saw and only one saw, it would be a circular saw. However you said you're in an apartment, and any power saw is going to create a lot of noise and throw dust everywhere, so you're probably better off with a hand saw. Pick up a circular saw plus a guide. Don't pick up a saw if you are doing it inside in your apartment or balcony. If you are outside in the garage or parking area then okay.
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Sep 27, 2015 23:25
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The problem with craftsman is that they have a whole box full of ratchets for replacement. I know because I've replaced my flex head 3/8 long handled ratchet once a year. What's more fun than starting a brake job than a trip to sears for the yearly replacement?
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Nov 19, 2015 01:03
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Honestly get a kit from lowes or home depot and be happy they'll work and aren't going to be too lovely. If you want good then buy snapon or equiv.. but get ready to pay. Or.. buy kobolt then replace the ones That break with snapon now you have quality tools for the ones you use the most and decent for the occasional use ones.. this is what I did with router bits.. good for start then replace with great.
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Nov 21, 2015 00:00
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| # ¿ Apr 18, 2024 18:57 |
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Re ladder chat. Get the 22ft werner multi position that has a 300lb load and then you will be super happy. E: basically you will never need another ladder.. you can use it to paint to hit your roof, to do stairwell work.. Yea it'll be more than the $100 shakey rear end extension ladder.. but it will take up less space and replace your step ladder and extension ladder. Ee: if you can wait, see if it goes on sale this week, I got mine for 169. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Nov 23, 2015 |
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Nov 23, 2015 18:55
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