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Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
I love Craigslist. I've been scraping the local CL looking for a drill press and here is what I got today:








A 1950's craftsman drill press in PERFECT condition except that the motor won't so much as make a sound. No matter, the seller threw in a perfectly functional 1/2 hp craftsman motor running at the same rpm. And a box with 47 drill bits. All told, $150. Any ideas how to get the belt pulley off the old motor? I've loosened the set screws but it doesn't want to budge. I think I'll just shoot it with wd-40 and gently kind of pry at it. Any other/better ideas?

Now I just need to sell the drill press I bought yesterday, before this beauty was posted.

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Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

kafkasgoldfish posted:

It's worth noting that this (or at least a generic 3 ton puller) can be rented at Autozone for free (with a refundable CC deposit).

Thanks for this. I went to my local Autozone, got a AC clutch pulley puller, and got the pulley off in 10 minutes. I had to improvise a bit since the shaft of the puller was too big to fit into the center of the pulley, but I was able to put some pieces of bar stock in there and get it off. Thanks!

So when you're putting a new pulley onto a motor shaft, you just make sure all the surfaces are clean and smooth and kind of tap it on, right?

Edit: The motor shaft I'm installing this pulley on has a flat side. Should I try and make the set screws contact the flat side so they'll hold on harder?

Uncle Enzo fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jun 8, 2012

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
So I've gone to put the pulley on the new motor and I have a problem: It's too loose. Instead of fitting very tightly like it did on the old motor, it fits closely but not tightly. It could fall right off, it's so loose. I measured the motor shank diameters with my calipers and they're different.

Old motor: .503"
New motor: .498"

It's only a matter of 5 thousandths of an inch, but it's the difference between a very very tight/interference fit and falling-off loose. Right now the set screws are all that hold the pulley on, and there's no way they're meant to stand up to a sustained 1/2 hp load. I'm a little mystified as to what I should do. Can I make the fit tighter somehow? Should I try and dig up a different pulley with a very slightly smaller inside diameter? Are these shaft diameters deliberately different or just machining differences?

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

Bad Munki posted:

It's for realsies time to buy a bandsaw. I talk about this about once a year around this time (my birthday) but this year, I have a shop roughly three times the size of my old one, and I'm going to be here for a while so I want to pull the trigger. Aside from the normal bandsaw stuff, my other primary use will also be to resaw logs/boards from various local hardwoods. With that in mind, I need a big resaw capacity, and I figure I'll need at least a couple horsepower. I would like to keep a budget of around a grand, although if I could get a hugely better tool for a couple hundred more, I could probably swing that.

I think last time I was looking, this Rikon bandsaw got some good recommendations, although it's a bit light on the HP. I'm also considering this Grizzly or possibly this slightly bigger Grizzly, both of which I like the stats on more than the Rikon. Any thoughts, here?

Here's a bandsaw for you:

An Oliver 30" bandsaw

Unfortunately it's somewhat out of your price range.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

t_violet posted:

$900. Not one of those insane deals you read about where someone finds a 12" jointer for $20 but a very good price for a 2004 Powermatic 66 with the extension table. It's a got a 5hp/1ph Baldor motor so it'll last forever (and is honestly more saw than I need but hey). These were around $3k-ish new.

I'm renting a truck with a lift gate to move it 'cause it weighs around 600 lbs. I've got some help to unload (not enough to just pick it up tho') but I'm a little worried about getting it off the lift gate and into the garage. (and hopefully, I'll be able to move it into my newly constructed garage around late fall but the permit process in Austin is ridiculously convoluted and I'm going to be doing the majority of the construction myself on the weekend so it won't be a fast project).

I'm so excited, I really figured I wouldn't be able to get a saw like this for years.

ETA: Hey, anyone here have any experience moving something that heavy? Googling gets me different opinions (like appliance dollies, just walking it by the corners which seems like it might damage it). I'm thinking I may need to take off the extension so it's not so awkward but I don't want to disassemble it any further (like taking off the table). They make a mobile base for this saw I plan to get eventually but I don't have it yet.

I'd say take the extension table off since that'll make it both lighter and easier to handle. Taking the table off might be a good idea if it isn't too invasive- if it's cast iron, that's going to be a large portion of the weight. You could put the table parts on a furniture dolly pretty easily. Past that the lift gate is a great idea and takes care of most of the problem. As for getting the saw on and off the lift gate and into your garage, your best bet is lots of people. Just get like 4-6 dudes and the job will take 10 minutes. Ask friends, neighbors, whoever. If that is for some reason totally impossible I'd get some of those slick plastic saucers, put them under the feet/corners, and muscle it a little at a time.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

dyne posted:

I probably had a dozen hours of use on it just from knocking down a bomb shelter in my basement.

Do you have any pictures of this? I'm fascinated by those kinds of structures, especially ones in private residences. How old was it? Was it fallout-rated?

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

thegasman2000 posted:

I will get some cutting discs and have a play. What sort of thickness of mild steel will a normal corded grinder cut? 2mm?

I like the makitas and my uncle owns a tooL hire business so discounts potentially. Anyone got experience if the sanders and other non drill cordless tools? Worth having?

A corded grinder with a cut-off wheel and patience will cut anything the wheel can reach. I've gone through a 42mm thick steel truck axle most recently. Takes a while and you don't get a photogenic, clean cut but a good part of that is just user error. When I take time I can get a pretty nice looking edge from the cutting wheel.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
So I bought a C-clamp at an estate sale today. Not a hundred percent sure how I'll use it, but you can never have too many clamps. It works like a charm.



8$

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

Slugworth posted:

Alright, I am confused. I get that things cost more than the sum if their parts, but in what way is even 60 dollars a good price for that? I am asking honestly, what am I missing?

As a person who is actually currently in the market for a combination square, the answer to your question is accuracy. There is a huge difference between something that "looks square" and something that is totally square, so that you can make repeating cut after cur after cut and not have small errors multiply over and over. For example, if you were cutting metal squares to lay flat on a surface, like tiling a floor. If a particular square you cut is a tiny fraction off square, no big deal right? But when your measuring tool isn't perfectly square, you make the same mistake over and over and your tiny error gets multiplied by 10 or 100 or 10000, and all of a sudden you've got a bunch of tiles that even though they are tightly butted together, are clearly not straight even to the naked eye.

And when you're machining or making tight-fitting parts, your errors get much more relevant even faster. A piston in a gas engine, for example, has to be the exact right size and exaclty square, or it will rub the sides and overheat if too big, or it'll let the explosion gases past it, leading to a huge loss of power and probably overheating and I don't even know what else.

So you're exactly right in that that seems like a huge amount of money for something you can buy one that looks just like it for $5 from Harbor Freight. The difference is the expensive one is correct to a tolerance high enough that you'll never run into it not being square, and the cheap one can get you into trouble immediately.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
It's strange for me walking through a hardware store and I see these kinds of things everywhere, everything adjustable and ratcheting etc. I bought an Ace-branded socket set for $20 that I've been really happy with, a cheap set of wrenches, and a deep-socket set for changing sparkplugs. It's a shame that people seem so intent on rather than having the proper tools having one tool that does the job really poorly.

Not that my stuff is like some top-of-the-line super nice tools, but I have never stripped a bolt yet.

Uncle Enzo fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Nov 16, 2013

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

ASSTASTIC posted:

What are people's plans for black friday? Anyone getting anything?

My wife and I usually buy some good sheets every black friday. Head out about 10:30 that morning after a leisurely breakfast, swing by the closest target, pick up a set of 800-ct king-size sheets for 40$. We got some flannel sheets last year that when it's cold out make you feel like you're being hugged by God. We might try and get another set this year. Maybe some cheap movies, good time to pick up some good flicks for 3$ each.

Tool-wise, I'm planning on making some wooden mallets this year for gifts. Is apple an ok wood for the mallet head?

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
I bought this Porter Cable corded circular saw several years ago and I've been really happy with it. Cuts strong and clean every time.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

Sagebrush posted:

So this is...a thing:

http://www.flamingsteel.com/my-vintage-tool-collection.php

Someone's vintage tool collection! There's some neat stuff he has in there for sure. But there's something...off...about the whole thing. I can't quite describe it.


"As you can see I can still lay down a nice bead like I used to years ago."

:v:

I'm thinking this guy was being ironic. I've got to imagine, although you never can tell on the internet

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

wormil posted:

I have 3 miter saws and would like to dedicate one to metal cutting, mostly aluminum, steel angle, light steel tubing. The internet tells me it's either a terrible idea or will be just fine if the blade is rated for the higher rpm of a miter saw designed for wood.

What about an abrasive blade? Both rated above the rpm of my saw.

http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Diameter-Reinforced-Abrasive-Thickness/dp/B0006NFFA6/ref=pd_cp_hi_2

http://www.amazon.com/Forney-71860-...#productDetails

I've used an abrasive blade in my circular saw for metal and had no problems. As long as it's rated for the RPM, go for it. I figure as long as I'm avoiding lateral stress on the blade and I'm inside the recommended RPM I'm good.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
I have a quite old, gigantic electric motor that weighs about 100 pounds that is rated by the General Electric Corporation at 1hp. It has zerk grease fittings and it's output pulley is slotted for two 5/8 v-belts in parallel. I got curious about how the very light little motor in my new shop vac can claim 3hp when it clearly is nowhere near as strong as the other motor. I ran into this article explaining pretty much everything a hobbyist might need to know about horsepower and motor ratings.

Turns out it's roughly 9 amps/horsepower at 115v AC, and the "Maximum Developed" horsepower that everyone puts on the box is 2-5x the actual, usable, rated horsepower. Good to know.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
Drillchat:

My el-standardo craftsman corded drill along with the rockwell clutch-activated power screwdriver:


My craftsman drill with my 1/2" chuck Van Dorn Big Drill:


My craftsman drill with my 5/8" chuck Van Dorn Really Big Drill:


Craftsman and Really Big Drill side by side:


Really Big Drill faceplate:


5/8" chuck
6 amp
450 rpm

I used the Big Drill to drive a 1/2" lag screw 5" long through one 2x4 and into the end of another. Didn't bat an eye. I haven't needed the Really Big Drill yet, but I plan on owning a house some day and I figure something to mix concrete with might be nice. I bought the two older larger drills at the same time as I bought a 5 foot long by 3/4 inch drill bit. Haven't had a need for that yet either.

By the way, can anyone offer any lubrication advice for my two Van Dorn Drills? They both run fine, but their gears sound a little dry. I'd love to lubricate them and I figure they're old enough that there is probably a way to do that. I don't see any external fittings, is my best bet just to open them up and see from there?

Uncle Enzo fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Mar 7, 2014

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

booshi posted:

I've been building guitar pedals recently which means a bunch of drilling holes in aluminum enclosures. With a hand drill and a vise I can drill holes pretty well and, if I take my time, in good position. However it's a bit of a pain and making me miss having a drill press to knock these out much more quickly. I live in a condo and don't have a lot of space, so anything full size is too much. The largest hole size I cut is a 1/2", which makes it a pain to find something smaller that has a chuck to handle it. Would an adapter work okay in smaller, "desk top" drill presses? Or can someone recommend me something (max $150-200) that I could get to suit my needs?

I got a desktop size 30's craftsman off CL for $150. It lives on my workbench and it is built like a tank. I'd try and get something older and used- estate sales around here (western NY) are good for old, sturdy tools.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

Mr. Apollo posted:

My cordless tools are a bit long in the tooth so I'd like to buy some new ones. I'm not a professional, this is just for around the house type stuff.

I assume all the major brands are more or less the same? I figure I'd buy one brand/series and stick with it so the batteries will be swappable.

I'm looking at getting a hammerdrill, impact driver, reciprocating saw, and maybe a cordless saw. I have corded tools too but I find myself reaching for the cordless ones more often.

I need a new miter saw too as my ancient cast iron Craftsman stopped working.


Ok and I don't mean to complain overmuch here but could we not talk about what kind of cordless tools to get here for the umpteenth time? That discussion has been gone over every other page for at least the last couple months. Just look back a couple pages and you'll see every aspect of the discussion from brands and battery types and voltages and brushless and tool-only-off-ebay

Yeah please just go with either Makita or Milwaukee

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

Tim Thomas posted:

I just pulled the trigger on a PCS Sawstop. On the one hand, that's a lot of furniture I could have just bought. On the other hand, holy poo poo I'm really excited about this.

I saw an in-person sawstop demo at Rockler once, the guy just used a piece of chicken from his lunch. Kind of made me want to get one.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

canyoneer posted:

I need some way to cut quarter round moulding around cabinets on a laminate floor. I need to cut good 45 degrees. Are tiny little miter boxes like this any good for this purpose? I'm probably only going to use this once, so I'd rather spend $15 than $150 on a powered, big saw.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_48795-355-20-600_0__?productId=50168173

I have one too and I love that thing, if you're just doing a couple cuts here and there it's well worth it. Just be careful not to let the saw teeth abrade the side of the slot and it'll last longer.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
In reference to Harbor Freight tools, my favorite blacksmithing hammer is my HF 3lb cross-pein sledge. I tried every 3lb hammer at every store I could get my hands on and the HF one felt the best in-hand. I ground and polished the face and I love love love it- leaves a clean, round dimple in hot steel every time. I can swing for 1-2 hours before my hand even starts to get tired.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

His Divine Shadow posted:

And they lowered the price on that bigass jointer to 400e, pffff I can't fit in my workshop I can't fit it in my workshop I c-

do it you can always build a bigger workshop

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
At below-freezing temps the air will be bone-dry, air can hold basically zero moisture at those temps. As long as you keep the water off it the temperatures shouldn't bother it at all.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

Bad Munki posted:

Can someone please find that video of the guy in sandals demonstrating his "strong" "stronger" and "strongest" log splitting attacks? I'm not having any luck and it's so topical.

I know exactly what you're talking about, I have gifs on my computer at home

Edit: Found it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgyQQGPZwrk

Uncle Enzo fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Dec 2, 2014

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

armorer posted:

Where did this come from? Does anyone actually split wood like this (other than this guy)? He is taking 10 ft. leaps while swinging an 8 lb. maul over his head, in sandals.

I have no idea, the dude probably tried to impress his buddies one day when he was 14 and it stuck. His other videos are good too, there's a good one that (as I recall) has him using a winch to pull down a quite large tree, which falls close enough to him that he has to outrun the tree.

Dude's an idiot who thinks he has found a better way to swing an axe than the rest of us mortals.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
I'd say for overall versatility you just can't beat a decent circular saw. I bought one of those aluminum track/guides that you can clamp to plywood so you go straight, love it. You can work fast and if you take the time to clamp a guide you can do some very clean work. If you're just looking for something that'll pretty much always cut what you need, that's a circular saw hands down. I have a corded porter-cable with a cheap carbide-tipped blade in it and I've never had cause for complaint.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
I bought a Kobalt ~50 piece wrench set and I've been delighted with it. I use my deep sockets pretty frequently changing blades on my table saw arbor and they're a necessity for changing spark plugs.

That said, I've heard nothing but good things about the Duralast tools from Autozone and apparently their guarantee is pretty foolproof. You walk in, give them the busted one, they take your phone# for the computer system, you get a new one and walk out. They've got a large variety of tools with what seem to be good build quality.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

Laminator posted:

My Hitachi drill fell off my ladder and the base of the handle totally cracked off and separated from the body. Still runs fine, the wiring to the battery is intact, but not really usable - is this something that can be fixed or is it done for?

Plastic epoxy and a careful hand.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
Picked up a set of 4 micrometers in a case, 2 Starret, 2 Browne and Sharp. Some very slight surface rust, but that seems to be rubbing off with some 3-in-1 oil on a rag and some elbow grease. Still, I think it was worth :10bux:

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
You can get a rebuilt used stihl from most anywhere that repairs small engines. You should be in and out for less than 250, assuming you only need a smaller one.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
Christ is there any way to avoid or shorten the rechargeable tool talk? Page after goddamn page of Makita vs dewalt

Just loving buy one already, if you don't like it return it. If you're a home user you'll never push them to their limits anyways, if you're a contractor you'll have your own opinions.

How much time are you guys even spending more than 20 feet from an outlet? Just buy corded tools as you need them. If your jobs are small enough that they can be handled by a plastic thing you can hold in one hand, it's a small job. Buy whatever. You won't be able to buy batteries and chargers to match eventually anyways, they're consumer goods with a calculated lifetime.

Face it, your rechargeable tools are going to spend 99.99% of the next ten years collecting dust on the workbench in your garage. Eventually you'll buy some new ones, from whatever is available then.

They're all made in the same factory anyways.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
I own plenty of tools that outlived their original owners. Rechargeable tools won't. They were designed not to.

Tools: Dewalt, Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee: Just pick one Jesus

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

Fizbin posted:

I'm not sure if this really counts as a tool, but I'm looking for a fairly specific phone app to use at my job fabricating curtainwall. I often have to do basic math on lots of imperial measurements, but using a regular calculator I not only have to remember the decimal equivalents of each 16th, I also have to type them all in (~5 extra keystrokes). What I'd ideally need is a 4-function calculator, with a separate button for each 16th, that also outputs fractions, and that doesn't convert up to feet. I've done some searching but so far I haven't found anything matching my requirements. Any suggestions?

edit:Something like this, which is the interface for my saw stop
https://goo.gl/images/7BirYb

I know you asked for a phone app, but they make specialized construction estimation calculators for use with imperial units and fractions.

link

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
I wanted to chime in on the eternal "which ecosystem" of rechargable tools question: one tiebreaker you could consider is what tools other people in your social circle may have. I was eyeing Milwaukee stuff for a long time, but then the day before father's day I realized: my older sister who lives nearby is on DeWalt 20v. My dad who lives nearby is on DeWalt 20v. If I buy DeWalt 20v then I can borrow tools and batteries if they have something I don't. We'd be able to keep each other stuff charged if we were all working together, for example.

I ended up buying this Dewalt 7-tool set on sale from Lowe's for 399. I know the grinder doesn't have a ton of uses, but I am a hobby metalworker and occasionally cutting some hardened steel is a real use case for me. Plus if I need to cut mild I can use the sawzall.

A lot of goons don't get along with their families though so this advice might be useful to avoid lol

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
Relevantly, here is a pretty objective test of cordless sawzalls. Don't miss the fact that the Dewalt and Milwaukee saws outperform a corded Milwaukee sawzall. And those are the 20v tools, not the higher-end 60v saws you'd use if you were using that saw professionally.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDmagFLJqao

You can see the pretty typical result of Dewalt or Milwaukee being in first or second place with Makita following very closely, a strong finish from Ryobi, and the other cordless options he tests don't amount to much.

The same guy does a lot of very solid testing like this of cordless tools and his results mirror the thread's advice. Dewalt, Milwaukee, then Makita, or if cost is really a major problem Ryobi stuff is actually quite good for the price.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
Any ideas on when Father's Day sales will start? I want the DeWalt 60v chainsaw but I want to see if it goes on sale since I want their 20v ROS too.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

tater_salad posted:

Maybe not all I assume that this close to fathers day you're not going to see much of a sale on anything anymore, you'll see maybe 1 more push of instore stuff this sunday. I highly doubt I.m.geis spesificly requested miter saw is hitting a sale.

I can't speak for other retailers but Home Depot's Father's Day sales are most certainly not posted yet. I also haven't seen flyers from Aldi with their stuff yet, they always do tools that week.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

B-Nasty posted:

Leaf blowers will work a little, but you really need to involve a brush to dislodge the sticky lint clumps in the vents. I use one similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Holikme-Cleaning-Remover-Fireplace-Synthetic/dp/B07SQYX2FH

You attach it to a cordless drill and slowly insert the brush while spinning, attaching more extensions as you go. Use the leaf blower periodically while brushing (remove the brush) to blow out anything that has been dislodged.

The kit I bought had an end cap with a little port for the rod and spinning brush and a port for a blower or vacuum so you could spin the brush and blow at the same time. It worked really well, though next time I might just duct tape my leaf blower to the vent at the dryer end and blow it out.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

canyoneer posted:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-20-Volt-Brushless-Random-Orbital-Sander-with-Bag-Battery-Included/1001062236

$99 for a Dewalt 20v brushless 5" orbital sander with 2AH battery and charger. I've got this sander and I like it a lot. It is, unsurprisingly, a much better tool than the $40 corded Black and Decker it replaced for me.

Thanks a million! I passed on a similar deal last November and I've been waiting for it to come back. If you don't sign in to your mylowes account it charges you 75$ for shipping though, unless you select store pickup which is what I did.

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Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
Massive runout on the chuck. It's so obvious in the video, it's casual arrogance that their target market had no need to do things like "drill neat and clean holes"

I'm the feature of "has touchscreen"

No I'm the time you spend loving with an app or the tiny screen on the back to load the presets before you can use any of the features [not shown].

This drill is for drilling holes in walls to mount pictures. How many of those features are any use for driving screws or mixing paint or using it outdoors?

That's a sub- Harbor Freight grade drill. This thing cost 200+ bucks on Kickstarter and they're planning on retailing them for 300 bucks? At that price you're competing with (say) the DeWalt DCD999 which has an easily selectable clutch, a hammer drill, a vastly superior chuck, and if used with a 60v flexvolt battery, an absolute fuckton of power.

God bless you for posting this.

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