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Fein Multimaster is the same type tool as the Dremel Multi Max but industry quality. Fein sells an even stronger and more expensive version named the Fein SuperCut. This is really the home improvement super tool. I bought the Top version with several sawblades, some fugue handling accessories, delta sanding plates, dust extraction device and a nice case. Expensive but superb quality.
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Jan 24, 2011 21:17
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This is the problem when discussing tools with Americans. Ridgid barely sells any tools in Europe. Craftsman sells none AFAIK. This also means no Delta.  Milwaukee is sold but in low quantities. There's a lot of DeWalt but far from what it used to be. From what I've gathered, the aforementioned brands really make up the American market. I hear Bosch is on the rise in the US and smaller brands like Festool and Fein have their special niche. What about brands like Panasonic (makes some of the best drills in the world), Hitachi (all around good brand) and Makita (same here)? I bought a Makita drill/hammer drill driver combo when I was in the states last. I saw some Makita but not a lot. Think I saw some Hitachi at Lowe's as well.
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Jan 25, 2011 10:27
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ibpooks posted:All of those brands are basically average quality made-in-china tools with various different color labels on them. Now that Delta (except the Unisaw) is all china made, there is little variation between those brands. quote:Yes that's true, but there's also Black and Decker and Skil rounding out the bottom of the quality ladder. quote:Bosch is decent, but I could happily spend my entire life savings at the Festool dealer. They make fantastic tools, but only a limited line is available in the US due to some type of import restrictions and UL testing problems they've had. If you want to be even more of a tool snob and haughtily look down upon the plebs that toss money at the newly discovered Festool dealer, you should check out Mafell - http://www.mafell.com/ Germany has a long tradition of carpenters and woodworkers. Mafell is a small company that make excellent woodworking products for such tradesmen. It's right up there with Festool but even more obscure. Their plunge saw is flat out better than Festools TS55, simply because it's newer with more neat functions in it. They have several track saws that cost a fortune and look cool as hell. quote:I've seen all of them in the major tools stores. I own a couple Makita tools -- cordless driver, drill, corded jigsaw, maybe a few others. I think they've been making really nice products lately. Another German brand to check out - Metabo http://metabo.com/ - it's not Festool/Mafell quality, more Bosch/etc. But they too make some cool products. Their new drill driver has a pulse function similar to an impact driver which gives it around 100Nm of torque. It also has a quick-change chuck with a quick bit chuck and a 90 degree extension similar to Festool and Protool drills (the latter is owned by the same company that owns Festool. Protool is the construction line. Yay, more expensive tool to ogle at)
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Jan 28, 2011 09:43
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EGM1ZM?ie=UTF8&tag=jaybrewernet27-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000EGM1ZM This one?
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Jan 28, 2011 23:14
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Anyone have any insight on http://www.gmctools.com/ ? I don't know anything about the brand and I've never seen it in any of the European webshops. A small Norwegian shop is selling GMC tools quite cheap (guessing for a reason). On the other hand the shop also sells Triton with decent prices so I figured I'd ask. Thinking of buying one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Triton-SCA001-4-Inch-Benchtop-Cutting/dp/B000CSRD28 Apparently the saw is discontinued as Triton is under new management. I'm thinking of buying a welder and I've always used angle grinders with cutting discs to chop metal. The only thing bothering me is that the miter angles are 90 or 45 degrees only. Maximum cutting size is 2x2".
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Jan 30, 2011 23:49
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inspire posted:GMC is absolute garbage. I was given a GMC cordless from my stepfather and the batteries last about 10 minutes. Never was game to try anything else from them. You usually get what you pay for but my old boss bought an XU1(?) electric drill for $30 with a 1" chuck and it lasted forever. Ridgid seems to be setting up shop in Europe. Toolstop(.co.uk) is already selling plumbing tools and I'm hoping they will introduce some powertools in the future. More competition can only be good.
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Feb 3, 2011 14:51
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Interesting article from the Toolstop blog: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/blog/2011/02/10/dust-anyone-not-with-metabos-kgs-plus-mitre-saws/ The earlier Metabo mitre saws where rebranded Elektra Beckum saws and Metabo let some of their saws trail behind in quality and features. You still see these blue Metabo saws sold. They are good options if you're looking for a cheap and easy saw but not up to DW, Bosch, Makita, etc. in quality. I would imagine they out-preform green Bosch, B&D, Skil, etc. simply because they should be more durable. These new, green Metabos look really nice. The dust extraction is probably the first to rival the omnipotent Kapex (Festool, sell your first-born and so on). No nifty solution to get rid of the long slide but you can't have it all. I'm loving the induction motor model. I'm thinking of trying that out with a Bosch mitre saw. The construction of the 10 and 12" dual-bevel models are just begging to have an induction motor. Edit: Oh, yeah. This is also interesting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xayc_0rB3es Not sure how the balancing bit works. Iskariot fucked around with this message at 13:11 on Feb 11, 2011 |
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Feb 11, 2011 13:07
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Bosch has both the green DIY version and the blue professional grade version of this tool. They even have cordless versions in both segments. Protip: Don't buy a cordless version. They are usually 10.8 or 12V with 1-1.3 Ah and they under-perform. http://www.axminster.co.uk/bosch-bosch-gop-250-ce-multi-cutter-prod833182/ This is the corded, industrial strength version. I haven't actually used this but even the green Bosch are viewed as nice for beginners. The Fein is fantastic but expensive. I bought it before Bosch had a blue corded version. Now I may have reconsidered. Bosch generally make great tools. The tool itself should have some weight. The green Bosch is quite light and will transfer more of the energy to your arms. The Fein is heavier and most of the energy will transfer to the work piece. The Fein is also a work beast. I've abused it to the point that the front end was too hot to touch and it kept going. After hours of scraping or sanding, you really want to have as little energy transfer to the arms as possible. Even with the heavy Fein, my fingers were tingling for a couple of hours. Had I done the same with a light tool, I fear my fingers would have fallen off. If you plan to use this now and then, any oscillating multi-tool will do. If you are like me and do some rather hefty home-improvements from time to time, the Fein will be worth the investment. It also works wonders as a delta sander and can be hooked up to a vacuum unit. The top kits of the MultiMaster have a quick release of the work piece. I also recommend to get a Top kit as the attachments are rather expensive. I imagine the blue Bosch will have cheaper attachments. TL;DR: Get the Fein or blue Bosch if you plan to use this for several hours. Don not get a cordless version. Get the Dremel if you plan to make a hole once a year or something.
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Feb 12, 2011 13:17
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Welcome to the club. You won't be disappointed. Fein seems to have dropped the price on the MultiMaster recently, especially on the Top kits. This is probably due to competitors launching their own tools. The only osculating multi-tool that can be said to be better is the Fein SuperCut. It's 400W instead of 240W (IIRC) but it costs an arm and a leg and is more of a specialist tool. You can see the SuperCut sold in special packages for carpenters, plumbers, electricians and so on. Prices I've seen start at around 1000 USD. I can live with my "cheap" MultiMaster. 
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Feb 13, 2011 00:12
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Perhaps a dumb question but what is the main purpose of a worm drive? Is it just a substitute for a circular hand saw (what you yanks call a Skilsaw, I guess) or does it preform another function? Anyone got any experience with a Makita MLT100? I don't think it's sold in the US and it's unknown in Norway. Reason I ask is that it's relatively cheap compared to other contractor/table saws. Some claim the motor is slightly weak and the blade protection is flimsy. I can change the motor if it comes to it and the safety gear can be modded. It sports a very large table for a portable table saw and a bunch of neat features. The fence looks a bit small but people claim it's preforming decently. I can always upgrade to some Delta or Incra contraption later on. I'm not so keen on shelling out 1000-1200 USD for a DW745 or equivalent from Bosch or Makita. I think I saw a DW745 on sale at HD for like $200 this summer. The price gap is just insane. I can't get a stationary table saw. I don't have a dedicated shop and I'm not able to get one anytime soon. I'm still on the lookout for woodworking machines that I can make portable but the largest units just have to wait.
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Feb 15, 2011 11:13
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D-D-D-D-DOUBLE POST! On the subject of tools and woodworking, I recommend this blog: http://woodgears.ca/ Many articles on different woodworking stuff but some tool articles worth checking out as well. This: http://woodgears.ca/saw_arbor/index.html is probably worth checking out for all you table/contractor saw owners.
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Feb 15, 2011 11:59
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Way to crush my dreams, guys.  I know a contractor saw is far from ideal. My problem is that I have to wheel the saw outdoors from a small stall and everything has to fit through a 90cm door. I'm not so bothered that the table isn't comparable to a high end Delta. I just have to make due with something smaller and portable. The fence would probably be replaced at some point. I'm not going to buy anything right now so I'm still watching listings for used machinery like a hawk. Problem is, I can't really get a 30 year old beauty with a big-rear end cast-iron table as I have nowhere to put it. GEMorris: We discussed radials in the woodworking thread a little while ago. I'm still looking for one but the market for such tools is tiny in Norway. I had one prospect but I had to let it go due to having a 3-phase motor. A phase converter that can handle this would cost quite a bit. The woodworking thread is also why I haven't invested in a table/contractor saw yet. Still trying to find something more suitable for detailed jobs. Sadly no intel on Norwegian cabinet maker jobs. I found one though. Fancy building boats?
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Feb 16, 2011 10:30
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GEMorris posted:Hah, no experience with that one, I doubt they'd hire a foreigner with no experience. I'll buy from Norwegian shops when they are roughly comparable in price. I get an extended warranty as long as it's not bought through a company. Some shops also give extended warranty as a sales pitch. But when stuff costs over twice the amount UK-based shops offer, with shipping and taxes, there's no way. Norwegian shops are stuck in pre-Internet times where you have no competition and customers came regardless. We have competitive IT shops in this country so it's not just national expenses that drive prices up. The general know-how in larger HD/Lowe's equivalents is nonexistent so they can't argue that either. But, yeah. Minor annoyance for living in a safe and rich country. 
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Feb 17, 2011 14:55
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Slight exception in your listing there: Hilti. Probably the most durable brand of tools ever created. You seldom find hip and cutting-edge (terrible pun) Hilti tools. They sell tools simply because they last longer. I've talked to professionals that opted for something other than Hilti because the machines lasted so long they sort of went out of style. A bit weird but so they claimed. The hammer drills are probably the best in the world. Homedepot prices on Hilti are so insane compared to here. The Hilti drywall screwdriver, SD 4500, costs $99 at HD. I would have to give over $400 for it. Professionals here still buy them in spades because they are superior. Don't underestimate the joy of working with professional grade tools over DIY grade. I seldom buy anything DIY anymore even if it's a tool I seldom will use. It's not only the work hours you get from quality tools, it's overall quality. If a drill goes from, say, $50 to $100 by upgrading a Ryobi to a DW/Makita/Bosch/Milwuakee/Hitachi/Ridgid/Hilti, you have spent 50 bucks to get something that could last you a lifetime. $50 is nothing. Granted, a cordless drill will have it's batteries give out on it at some point but new Li-Ion batteries last a long time if you store and use them correctly. Also remember that once you have invested in a pack with a charger and a couple of ~3Ah batteries, you can buy naked tools to supplement your workshop.
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Feb 23, 2011 10:53
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truncated aardvar posted:I did manage to flip the quick release lever onto my knuckle which is quite bruised now and I'm having trouble bending that finger - an unforeseen danger. I'll keep my hand well down the body when I do this from now on! Luckily I have a fridge full of anaesthetic. It's worth the risk. I've tried the green Bosch with a bolt instead of the quick release and it was a PITA when you changed attachments rapidly.
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Feb 26, 2011 17:12
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$100 give you something like http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...catalogId=10053 I don't know this drill or even the brand but Ridgid is typically industry-type quality. It's hard to find something for $100 but if you spend $200 you get a nice drill, a charger and typically two 3Ah li-ion batteries. DeWalt, Milwaukee, Hitachi, Bosch, Makita, Ridgid and a couple of brands more. Stay clear of Harbor Freight-type tools.
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Mar 4, 2011 16:08
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New li-ion batteries which are cared for and stored properly will last you very long. A professional tool will generally come with better quality batteries (the cells may be the same but the electronics will be better). The chargers are also tending to your battery. I have an old Bosch IXO that I got when they first came out, 13 years ago:  This little bugger is still going strong. I replaced it with a professional grade one a few years ago but the little IXO has seen it's share of abuse and I sure as poo poo didn't take care of the battery.
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Mar 4, 2011 17:28
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The Bosch 10.8V (all 10.8 and 12 volt series are the same voltage, it's difference is if they name them at peak voltage or sustained over a full charge) gets the best reviews in most European articles I've read. Bosch has a drill, a drill driver (no chuck) and an impact driver in the 10.8V series. They also have a multi-tool and a neat flashlight. Makita has a drill, driver and an impact driver. Flashlight as well IIRC. They also released a tiny circular saw in their 10.8V product line. Very cute! Usable? No idea. Milwaukee has a nice inspection tool which screams WANT for tool nerds. Think they have two flashlights, one LED, one Xenon. Metabo has also released a 12V line. I'd go with the Bosch if you find it at good prices. Just check that you get the latest model as Bosch has updated the line a couple of times after initial release. Hitachi and DeWalt are still sticking with the traditional bottom mounted horizontal batteries. Not nearly as sexy.
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Mar 5, 2011 00:46
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A keyed chuck require the mounting hole and teeth for the key where as a keyless chuck need that space for a decent grip. I've driven 5 inch hole saws with keyless chucks so if you're having problems, it's probably not tightened enough, it's meant to be slipping at high torque or bad chuck/bit? I haven't missed keyed chucks since forever. I have had to be mean to some cheap bullshit Black&Decker chuck and piss poor hole saw with a round bit end to make it stick. Jabocs(Makita uses this brand) is probably the largest chuck manufacturer. Röhm (DeWalt) is another. Most if not all proper tool brands use professional grade chucks. What one likes is a different matter. Edit: Correction to the above paragraph; Brands don't always stick to one chuck brand. A lot of companies have a drill with the Jacobs 500 series chuck, including DeWalt. Another topic: Does anyone recognize what model DeWalt RAS this is:  I'm going to look at it later today. If the mechanical and electrical stuff is in order, I'm probably picking it up. Around $250 but I'm going to try to bring it down. An old RAS with table is ~$500 here so I'm not expecting miracles. Edit2: AUGH! This is how a restoration should look: http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=8854 Iskariot fucked around with this message at 12:03 on Mar 8, 2011 |
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Mar 8, 2011 10:47
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Tonight I am a vintage DeWalt RAS owner.  The machine is a DW110. Made in Italy. Everything is tight and in working order but I bet this baby has gathered dust for 20 years so levers and knobs have to be forced open. The only broken part is a bit of the plate to the right of the blade where the guard is mounted. A bit is broken off right where the bolt should mount the guard. Haven't found my model on http://www.mtmc.co.uk/ but I'll keep looking. The motor runs fine and quietly. There is a small sound when I turn the spindle manually. Seems to be the right fan barely touches the hood near the axle. Nothing to worry about. I'm going to disassemble the whole thing and clean it before I make a new table. There's also a safety return mechanism that works but needs some love. Little to no rust to detect. Plenty of dust. Hell, I took off the front panel on the arm and I can't detect any wear where the bearings have been running. The wheels running inside the arm are covered in compact sawdust so I don't have the nice rolling feeling in the saw just yet. Will have to order that RAS book now, from Mr. Sawdust or whatever, and inhale tool refurbish forums. Also need to find a good blade. The 10" 90T blade that came with it is a little rusty.
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Mar 8, 2011 21:58
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I had to shell out the $250 for it but as I said, most cheap ones go for $500 and this guy had calls coming even as I was there. It's probably not a great find in the US but here it is. Saw an old ad with the same saw but better kept and a full table. Asking price was $1500. I've studied the blog that the guy that made the beautiful white RAS wrote but I can't find it anymore. Have to check my machine at work. I've read the PDF you linked a couple of times as well, GEMorris. Lots of great tips. The blog had more pictures of the process and that's always helpful. I'm not going full artwork with this thing, I plan to use it as well. I'm not sure I would have dared to fire up that white one. I searched high and low for a picture that fit this exact saw but I have yet to find one. The 125 looks like it but the guard is completely different. Worrying a bit how I'll find parts but I can always contact B&D/DeWalt directly and ask. I read somewhere that RASes use different blades than table saws, which in term use different blades than mitre saws. Do you change blades for ripping and cross cutting? Edit: Think about painting the body in black Hammerite. The one with the ballhammer effect. We used it back at the farm when I grew up and it's durable as hell. My father used to mix in 25% Owatrol into the paint and by then you could paint directly on rust. Also makes the paint thinner. This is the look: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5H5gNTQ8c9Q/TVwpAOVR2_I/AAAAAAAAD-A/NwVRzkKOWVM/s1600/P2163385.JPG Iskariot fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Mar 9, 2011 |
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Mar 9, 2011 00:18
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Here we go: http://dewalt925rebuild.blogspot.com/2009/12/day-1.html and his second RAS: http://dewaltgwiresto.blogspot.com/2010/02/before.html
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Mar 9, 2011 11:29
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Right, got a problem with the RAS. The bearings on the sled running inside the arm are as dry as nun's oval office. They are undamaged, yet, but I can't risk running the sled before they are properly lubricated. (Easy test to see if bearings are just dry and not damaged is to try to wiggle the two rings from side to side. If they are tight they are still ok. If you hear and feel crunching, you either have dust or sand in the bearing or the balls are starting to disintegrate. Open them up to verify) The bearings are stamped - is that the correct English term? Meaning the protective wall on the side of the bearing is metal stamped onto the assembled bearing. Doubt I can get those off without ruining the bearing. I can get a thin oil into them and thy ran much better after a quick squirt with a WD-40 alternative. But they are meant to run in grease and grease is thick and gooey. Any pointers? Ordered the Mr. Sawdust book today. Shipping was as much as the book but I figure who better to learn from? Also need to see the fabled table everyone is talking about.
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Mar 11, 2011 00:00
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tworavens: Congrats on a good deal and a very good drill. The new Bosch line is very much bleeding edge and you get a lot for your money. Now go find a naked impact driver to match the new drill. GEMorris: I've contacted a DeWalt service center here in Norway and set a guy to rummage through his old papers to find me some data. I think the 110 is pretty close to the 125 in design. I'll upload some pics and take some measurements over the weekend. Thanks a lot for the offer to help. I'm going to take you up on that if the local service center strikes out and I can't get anything from http://www.mtmc.co.uk/ - Their spare parts catalog is impressive. Need some bits for a Makita BSS 610 anyway. Decided to strip the saw down and refurb pretty much everything. Everything is packed with sawdust anyway so parting everything and giving it a good clean is in order. Still leaning towards the black Hammerite finish (hammer effect, like the current snot-green paint). Perhaps it would look cool with a Ferrari red?
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Mar 11, 2011 10:07
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What iForge said. Craftsmen here usually prefer Bostitch over Senco, Hitachi, Makita and so on. Some prefer a brand named Basso but consensus is that Bostitch is one of the best. I have a Hitachi myself and for a DIY-er with a tool fetish, a "regular" professional brand will do. Think I picked it up at Lowe's for 50 bucks. It's maybe 250-300 here. It' light, doesn't require much pressure and always drives the nails evenly in. Bosch also has a new line of pneumatic tools. They look well-designed.
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Mar 12, 2011 01:19
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Yet another update. Pulled most of the bits apart. Before:  How the blade guard works:  It twists on the motor axle and the lip folds over the guard, leaving almost half the blade exposed. Column showing some rust:  I ripped apart the sled and motor.  Cat was unimpressed. Wiring:  Motor ripped apart to check the sound and bearings:  You can see the inner workings of the manual brake on the motor. You push down a knob which lowers a brake pad down on the back rotor (not in the picture). Simple and functional. I'm going to clean it and semi-assemble before painting. The bearings are as new in the motor so there was no need to rip it apart. This is my latest problem:  One inch inside that hole there is a pin of some sort and I have no idea how to remove it. Only hole on one side and I can't find a manual for another model that shows me how it's done. Oh yeah, the blade that came with the saw is in fact a 12" 97tooth blade. I'm going to try to freshen it up wit some steel wool and see if it's any good on small, detailed work.
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Mar 13, 2011 17:11
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Deep inside the hole in the handle there seems to be a spring pin. I could barely make it out but I think I can see the hole in the pin and the split side. No chance to get a picture of it. It's just too small. It would be easy to insert it in the handle but how on earth am I supposed to get it out? Spring pins are usually made of hardened steel and the handle is basically made of hardened goo so drilling the thing out is the last resort. Could be some numb nut took it off at some point and just found whatever fit to put it back in working order. I'll use some cotton swabs and get the hole completely clean and try to verify before I do something drastic. I registered an account on owwm.org to lurk and post my findings. Not a single Elu or DeWalt has a handle just like the DW110.
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Mar 14, 2011 12:15
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iForge saves the day! (Smaller pictures this time) Result:  You can see the screw with the pin down there. I didn't do anything with it other than finding a screw that's just small enough for the threads to take hold and then using a hammer to pull it out. Great success! Also worth mentioning: Get an impact driver. I tear out rusted bolts that are tightened enough to nearly snap with ease. Little risk in damaging the head as well. Arm off:  Ripped to bits:  There! Now I can move it around without risking tearing a hole in the wall and the Mrs. won' t give me "the look".
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Mar 14, 2011 21:33
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oxbrain: I want it. I have most of my tools in crates and cases now and it's a pain in the rear end. iForge: Yeah, I would if the downstairs floor was subject to serious damage. It's an old laminate floor that takes serious beating before damaging and we're looking to renovate. I'm almost looking for an excuse. Oil won't do anything to it but it can scratch. Have to finish some home improvements before I start going at parts with the wire cup. Edit: Got to be organized! 
Iskariot fucked around with this message at 12:04 on Mar 15, 2011 |
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Mar 15, 2011 11:36
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Stuck how? Is the head on the bolt ruined or is it just rusted solid? I've extracted some bolts and screws by filing a track into them and gone to town with an impact driver. If the head is still intact you should just try an impact driver if you haven't. The difference between regular unfastening with a beefy drill and the driver is night and day. I've snapped the head of a hardened Allen bolt on a circular saw because I forgot it was a links bolt. All while holding the saw in one hand and the driver in the other. The torque must have been immense but nothing travels to your arms. Honestly, an Allen bolt would have med a hell of a lot more sense in my case. Getting a spring pin out from a one way hole is pretty high on the oh-gently caress-me list. Did some initial shining on the column last night. It's going to clean up good.
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Mar 16, 2011 10:19
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Ouch. I see. Still, I would have attempted using an impact driver. Whatever voodoo mechanical effect it has, it really works. (I know about the small strokes it does, but I don't understand why it blows pure torque out of the water). I never tested powered impact drivers until recently and they blew my mind. I was particularly troubled with some lovely screws that we call "French screws" here in Norway. Typically large wood screws made with some lovely steel. Regular unfastening would ruin the head or simply twist the head off. The impact driver tore them out like nothing. That said, I've done heating as well. You mess up the hardening if you heat it lots though but you probably want to change the bolts anyway. I have also made new tracks by beating down an old flat screwdriver with a hammer onto the bolt but YMMV and you can forget that with a hardened bolt. Works with soft screws, messes up the screwdriver.
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Mar 17, 2011 15:07
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Slung Blade posted:Holy gently caress, that thing is a tank What you mean is: Someone should get a Dr. Doom welding mask! Great find and congrats on the free 3-phase.
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Mar 21, 2011 10:01
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Pro tip on rollers and the  of cleaning them: If you are going to wait X hours or a few days to to additional coats of paint, stick the roller in a plastic bag, pour some more paint into the bag and seal it. Works with both oil- and acrylic-based paint. Just get most of the air out of the bag, no need to vacuum pack it, and get the paint evenly spread on the roller so parts don't dry out. 30 second job.Both the roller and the extra paint in the bag will be good to go the next time you open the bag. Saves you the hassle of softening up the roller after residue stiffens it or, if you cleaned it under a day ago, getting the water still trapped in it out. (Acrylic paint)
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Mar 31, 2011 09:00
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Wera makes some of the best bits and screwdrivers you can get. I keep a bit set of their strongest type in my "work pants" at all time. The laser etched tip is like a slight serration running across the tip. When you apply force to the driver, it really bites into the screw. Personally I find Wera much nicer than Stanley FatMax, Bacho and other brands. Costly stuff though. You see the tip a bit better here: http://www.amazon.com/WERA-Screwdriver-Piece-Set-Laser/dp/B0039ZIQZY/ref=pd_sbs_indust_8 Iskariot fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Apr 8, 2011 |
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Apr 8, 2011 09:35
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Excuse the double post. New topic. Bosch really seems to be hunting Milwaukees 12V line: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/bosch-gsa10.8v-lin-10.8v-li-ion-cordless-sabre-saw-body-only-p15156 http://www.toolstop.co.uk/bosch-gos10.8v-lin-10.8v-li-ion-cordless-inspection-camera-1-battery-p15159 From what I've gathered, the various 10.8 and 12V lines are basically the same. Lines marked as 12V are measured when the battery is at the peak while 10.8 is the mean voltage over a full charge. I like the latter notation better but I'm betting some marketing people had their hand in this. A lot of contractors, electricians and DIYers are praising the smaller line, especially Bosch, as the tools are small, handy and packs a punch. My brother got a Bosch Monster pack for Christmas and they really are nifty. I still swear by my 18V Makitas as they are light for 18V-ers and I don't screw enough (terrible) to warrant a whole new line of tools. These professionals claim that the 10.8V-ers can do most of the jobs and they keep 36V-ers for the really heavy stuff. A Bosch monster pack (drill, impact driver, torch, angle driver) set you back around $600 in Norway so you should get plenty of good tools for a nice sum in 'merica.
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Apr 8, 2011 10:26
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I have the 18V Makita and it's excellent for light work. Battery holds its charge for a long time too if what you're cutting isn't too hefty (your example isn't).
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Apr 21, 2011 22:21
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I disagree. I also have both and since I rarely cut through massive steel beams, I just pick up the Makita (I have a corded DeWalt). It's light, there's no hassle with cords and the Makita even has cute LEDs in front. It's drawback is due to it's light weight, even with the battery, it vibrates during use. Nothing serious for small and fast work but I can see it get annoying if I was to use it for several hours on end. But then there's Hilti. I can't really argue with Hilti.
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Apr 25, 2011 23:20
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I agree on corded and heavy reciprocating saw if you're going to cut a lot of metal. Like a drill I prefer a small, not high-powered unit when I do smaller work. Less strain on the arms and more precision. If I were to get just one saw and heavy metal work was one of the tasks I had to handle, get a big corded unit. For my use, and what looks like truncated aardvar's main use, any saw will do. I would prefer a cordless simply because you get mobility and enough power. I agree completely on blades - make sure you have correct ones and they are sharp. My corded saw is actually a small DeWalt - DW304PK. I got this before the Makita, which I got as part of a larger deal. I wouldn't use the DW304PK for heavy work either but it has a really neat feature in the front. You can attach the blade horizontally so it can be used close to a wall or floor. This came very handy when I was removing a door frame close to a wall.
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Apr 26, 2011 13:53
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I own Makita 18V tools and I agree on weight and power you get from these light tools but to be fair, Makitas 18V line feels a bit dated compared to the latest Bosch and Hitachi lines. The new thing now is brush-less motors which both Bosch and Hitachi are implementing rapidly in most of their tools. DeWalt offer backward compatibility between Li-Ion and older tools which is nice. They have really powerful drills but they weigh a lot. Don't really know a lot about the typical American brands. All in all, you can't really go wrong with any of these brands.
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Apr 29, 2011 15:26
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Do not get the 90 degree drill driver. The regular drill does 90% of the work, the impact driver 9% and the lasting 1% is best done with the angle driver. It's really a "oh, cool" but never used type of tool. If you want to burn some $, get the impact driver with the drill. They are superb. If you're just going to buy one, get the regular drill.
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May 6, 2011 14:58
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