|
iForge posted:Ridgid 18 volt cordless power tools ($300 for a set of 3 tools, 2 batteries, and a charger?) I just want to add in here that this has not been my experience with this set. I got a deal on them in jan of 2010 when they were clearanced after christmas, but regardless, the drill and impact driver are great. It did come with the low AH batteries, so if you want more runtime, then you need to buy a set with the larger (heavier) batteries. I don't run into much of a problem because Ridgid only makes qucik battery chargers, so I'm not waiting long if ever for charging. The one disappointment is the cordless version of the fuego small-sawzall. It tends to overheat quickly, so the control chip cuts power so there is no threat of lithium battery pack ignition (all lithium ion tools have a chip like this, but most don't overheat as fast as this saw). Regardless the saw still has its uses. I might have a different opinion on the "value" if I had paid full price. But I'm more than happy with the quality of Ridgid drills and impact drivers. iForge posted:No. I believe that I purchased it before they offered that. This was 2005ish that I bought the set. Nevermind, we have different sets. Also they have always offered the lifetime service agreement/warranty, ever since they started selling Ridgid power tools. iForge posted:Ridgid palm sander($60?) Oh god yes I completely agree, and let me expand this to all sheet sanders sold at the big box stores, they are all terrible. People stare wistfully at festool catalogs, usually eyeing the saws and routers. However IMHO, the most to be gained with a Festool tool over a "regular" tool is in the sanding department. I use a finish sander for hours on end, day after day during the busy season for my business. I went through three of the ridgid sanders in one year. The balance and vibration would get so bad that the clamps for holding sandpaper on could no longer do their jobs. I finally bit the bullet and bought a Festool finish sander. It's been running strong for two years and shows no signs of letting up. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Feb 11, 2011 |
#
¿
Feb 11, 2011 20:00
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 19:09 |
|
|
dwoloz posted:I'll fulfill the bragging portion of this thread and let you all know I scored a Ridgid worm drive off Craigslist for 40 bucks. Going to officially retire my trusty but ragged Craftsman Nice, that's a good saw and you saved $120. Heavy, but what worm drive isn't?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2011 05:32
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:Perhaps a dumb question but what is the main purpose of a worm drive? Is it just a substitute for a circular hand saw (what you yanks call a Skilsaw, I guess) or does it preform another function? Check the woodworking thread for my posts about Radial Arm Saws (which ones to buy, which ones to avoid, and why they are the perfect solution for a situation like yours. A benchtop saw really isn't the answer to any question, if space and portability is the biggest consideration, get a track saw. If having the most capabilities in a given size, while costing the least is the main consideration, get a good old Dewalt or Delta radial arm saw. Also: You live in Norway? Find me a job and a worker's permit, and I'll bring you tons of tools, promise 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2011 23:40
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:Sadly no intel on Norwegian cabinet maker jobs. I found one though. Fancy building boats? Hah, no experience with that one, I doubt they'd hire a foreigner with no experience. I'm actually a letterpress printer by day, I don't think I'd want to do woodworking to pay the bills. Regardless, my point was that even though you have poor availability of tools and high prices, you could live in the US with tons of cheap tools and no social safety net, which would be worse. What is involved with importing tools from the UK or Germany? I know Norway isn't in the EU but don't they have free trade agreements? Would you be looking at other fees on top of VAT? I've seen many Inca tools on ebay.co.uk that I would love to have, but can't afford shipping them across the atlantic. Also, WRT 3-phase power and phase converters. If the RAS is 1.5hp and under, especially if it is 1hp and under, look into running it with a VFD rather than a rotary phase converter. The cost of small VFDs has dropped to where it is usually the cheaper option.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 16, 2011 17:49
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:$100 give you something like http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...catalogId=10053 I have the specific drill he linked to, it is a good tool. Also: seconding the rest of Iskariot's advice.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2011 18:56
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:Does anyone recognize what model DeWalt RAS this is: Judging by what parts are plastic and what parts are metal, I would guess that the saw is mid-to-late-70's vintage. At first I thought it was similar to a saw that an aussie user posted, but now I realize it's just a different color scheme on a saw that was available in the US. Given your limited options in Norway, I'd jump on it if it works. Making a new table is easy. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Mar 8, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2011 19:30
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:Tonight I am a vintage DeWalt RAS owner. Ok, I was wrong then, if it was made in Italy then it is likely a much better machine than the US machine which it resembles. A general cleanup of the bearings and ways and a good calibration can work wonders on a RAS. If it was made/sold as a 10" model, consider running an 8-8.5" blade. The blades are generally much cheaper and the motor will seem more powerful than it does spinning a 10" blade. Keep a single 10" blade around for when you must have the capacity. As always, a good place to start without spending any money is here: http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/dewaltrebuild.pdf GEMorris fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Mar 8, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2011 22:35
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:...Stuff... If the saw doesn't have exposed rust, or large sections of peeling paint, I would just clean it up and use it. Parts may be an issue, but given that it was made in Italy, it was probably another manufacturer's saw that was re-badged as a dewalt. Check some brands like Stromab, Omga, etc to see if you can find a saw that looks similar. For cross cutting I use a blade with a 5 degree negative hook angle, they are generally marketed/labeled as RAS or SCMS blades. They aren't absolutely required, but they do add a little extra layer of safety. For ripping I use a regular rip blade. Unless I'm ripping extra thick stock I use a thin kerf 8" rip blade that Freud sells for about $18.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2011 18:06
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:The bearings are stamped - is that the correct English term? Meaning the protective wall on the side of the bearing is metal stamped onto the assembled bearing. Doubt I can get those off without ruining the bearing. I can get a thin oil into them and thy ran much better after a quick squirt with a WD-40 alternative. But they are meant to run in grease and grease is thick and gooey. Any pointers? Pictures are going to help a lot in this case. If you are talking about actually taking the bearings apart, rather than just taking them off of the saw carriage, forget about it. Take a picture of the markings on the bearing and see if you can find a bearing supplier in Norway. Replacement bearings aren't all that expensive. If you can't find a local supplier, let me know and I can point you to some good American suppliers. If they don't want to post to Norway you can have them shipped to me and I will forward them on.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2011 02:17
|
|
|
Circus Pies! posted:The Avanti Pro 8 In. x 24 Tooth Stacked Dado Set from Lowes or Home Depot that costs about $50 is utter crap. Surprise surprise! Avanti is Freud's poo poo brand. The $100 Freud Dado stack from HD/Lowes is good stuff.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2011 05:31
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:However, other things in my life are vastly more important, so my 1942 Logan 10x32 sits, alone on a steel table in my garage Boy does that sound familiar....
|
|
#
¿
Mar 17, 2011 19:11
|
|
|
themachine posted:I went out tonight and bought this Milwaukee set here from Home Depot. Not a bad price, but man, That Sawzall looks retarded as hell
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2011 01:28
|
|
|
dyne posted:My only reservation would be about the sawstop gouging on the licensing of the tech if it were mandated by the government. To me this is the biggest issue anyone who isn't "anti-gubmit" should have. I'm not sure if any auto safety innovations (seat belts, airbags, etc) have been in the same situation in the past or not. However, as with all granted monopolies, the government should be in a position to regulate them. But good luck with that in this political climate.
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2011 17:57
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:I don't think a tablesaw is essential. This is the major point, while this discussion is going to get poo poo up with a ton of extraneous info, this is the point Nerobro is trying to make. And he is completely correct. You can certainly make dado crosscut groove and rip cuts on a Radial Arm saw. A bandsaw can be an amazing tool for ripping and when properly configured a single quick pass over a jointer will give you a surface cleaner than that from a table saw. Table saws are simply what "american woodworking" is built around, they are familiar, and it is largely a hobby/industry driven by traditionalists (read:old white guys). So everyone keeps thinking that they HAVE to have a table saw to do certain types of operations. That being said, I'm not getting rid of my Unisaw, but I certainly would buy a Sawstop if I had the money. We had them at school and they are a very high quality saw. BTW with all the hate on the SawStop guy; you guys know that B&D tried to rip him off multiple times right? They had the option to buy his tech like 5 years before the sawstop came out but decided to try and copy it instead. Boogeyman posted:He has a DeWalt 10" radial arm saw (model 7740/3421 type 3) that finally bit the dust last week. 7740's are common enough that you shouldn't really consider the cost of rewinding the motor, see if you can get some $ from any of the parts on old woodworking machines and then search craigslist for a new saw. If it was an older iron DeWalt 12" or so, I would say get the saw motor rewound. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Jun 2, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2011 05:20
|
|
|
Circus Pies! posted:What I got out of that was that you can make dado crosscut groove and rip cuts with a table saw rather than occupying twice the space with a radial arm saw and a band saw. So you crosscut 10' 2x4's on your table saw?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2011 17:03
|
|
|
ibpooks posted:About as easily as you could rip them on a RAS. Not even close.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2011 17:47
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:If you have one of those fancy crosscut sleds, I could see a tablesaw cutting crosscuts nearly as easily as a radial arm saw. But it's not going to be as safe. Nor as convenient, and said sled takes up extra room, and the original claim was that the table saw took up significantly less room (significant enough to comment about at least) than proposed alternatives. If you count the material movement room you need, nothing takes up more room than a table saw.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2011 19:09
|
|
|
Circus Pies! posted:No no no, I do that with my miter saw. I've only worked at one shop that had a RAS and no one ever used it, I gave it a shot and it did pretty good but nothing I couldn't do with a table saw so I ended up only using it if someone else was on the table saw or miter saw and I needed to cross cut something. I'm not saying to not buy one but I just don't care for them. Circus Pies! posted:rather than occupying twice the space with a radial arm saw and a band saw. So you occupy twice the space with two tools (table saw and mitre saw) to do the same jobs that you can do with a RAS and a Bandsaw or just a RAS alone? Do tell me more about your vaunted space efficiencies and how Table Saws can do everything. ibpooks posted:I said rip, not crosscut. Both tools have things they're good at and things they're terrible at. I know what you said, its just that you are wrong. Ripping on a RAS is easier than crosscutting 10' boards on a table saw. TouchyMcFeely posted:I was talking about the base model tracksaw vs table saw and RAS. It isn't really fair to pull out a unit with all those extra (and expensive) accessories and then claim that table saws or RAS' aren't nearly as ballin'. Sure it is. 1. There aren't any "cheap" track saws, $400+ is pretty much the price 2. Have you priced a new table saw at Lowe's or Home Depot? Even the lovely ones that I wouldn't wish on anyone are $350+ TouchyMcFeely posted:Dumb questions but what can you do with a table saw (or RAS) that you can't do with a tracksaw? I can't think of a way you could use a table saw that a TS couldn't do as well. After all, they're both essentially the same thing - the difference is one moves the wood and the other moves the saw. Repetitive rips, especially thin ones, get old real quick. Same with grooving etc. Setup of a table saw fence is super quick in comparison. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Jun 3, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Jun 3, 2011 15:37
|
|
|
The status quo absolutely hates being questioned. Doubly so with anything that Old White Men are traditionally associated with. Show me a rip that you can't do on a 12" RAS, and I'll show you a rip that you shouldn't do alone on any table saw short of very large cabinet saws that costs multiples of what a good radial arm saw will cost you on the used market. But hey, keep repeating that "common sense" "knowledge" without having much experience guys!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 5, 2011 05:33
|
|
|
grover posted:I put a small door in the side of my shop at the end of the workbench to let me run long stock right through the wall. Worked out GREAT. Were you using a thin kerf ripping blade? Or the same crosscut blade that you kept on the RAS for normal crosscutting procedures? Did you have the blade in perfect alignment with the fence? This is the main reason people have a dislike for Radial Arm Saws, it takes a good bit of effort to get them into perfect alignment (but the good ones will stay in alignment once you get them there). (and I know you weren't doing this grover, but I'll list it for others that may have an unexplainable problem) You weren't climb cutting by mistake were you? I have seen numerous instances where the operator simply failed to read the proper feed direction for ripping on a RAS. BTW for the haters, I mean getting them into alignment once, not every time you change the operation you are doing. Proper RAS's have taper-pin or wedge detents that return the saw to its proper alignment settings after you have set it up for a different operation.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 5, 2011 20:49
|
|
|
ShadowStalker posted:Looks like I know what I am getting for my birthday now. The wife needs to be a little more sneaky and not use our joint "Internet Orders" email account. I've been complaining about the crappy life of my 2 remaining 18v Dewalt XRP batteries and had already bought a Dewalt 20v set with a drill and impact driver. Looks like she ordered replacements for all of my 18v Dewalt tools. I'll have to post pics when they come later today. I hope you acted surprised anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2013 02:54
|
|
|
The problem with powered miter saws is that the dust collection is abysmal on all of them.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2021 02:41
|
|
|
Literally A Ghost posted:This is true but it really is the nature of the beast until you start buying cray expensive stuff. Like nearly only stupid people cray expensive. The problem is its just a function of the how the tool works, even the Kapex's dust collection isn't fantastic. Fwiw I use a manual langdon falls miter box for small stuff and an mft-like+tracksaw for big stuff / bevels.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2021 03:28
|
|
|
Literally A Ghost posted:I just have an air gun for my compressor. Boom. No more dust. Except in your lungs and all over your shop.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2021 04:03
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:drat, old school reppin. How exactly does a tracksaw lessen dust? Tbf, I've never set a miter saw up for dust collection, but I figured the exhaust nub at the end of the housing would be efficient if you replace the bag with an exhaust hose. Guess not, huh. Track saw has a blade that is almost completely shrouded and only projects exactly as far as it needs to, whereas a chop saw has a blade that is anywhere from 1/3 to 1/2 unshrouded, and the dust port is often much further away from the cut as well. If you make a track saw trim cut right on the end of a piece where you don't end up with an offcut, you'll still get some errant dust, but if it is a cut in the middle of a piece just a basic shop vac does a remarkably good job with dust capture. That said setup is not as quick as with a SCMS, i don't think anything will beat that tool for speed.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2021 19:13
|
|
|
I know this isn't the woodworking thread but just in case anyone didn't know, but was interested, Christopher Schwarz made The Anarchist's Workbench free to download
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2021 04:33
|
|
|
Shopfox is usually just Grizzly rebadged and sold in stores instead of direct.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2021 21:23
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 19:09 |
|
|
bobua posted:Expanding on this, they are usually made in the same factories with different levels of QA. Do your own QA when it arrives and be willing to send it back and try again. Yeah, *usually* was doing some heavy lifting in my original statement and should have probably been emphasized.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2021 21:38
|
|