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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003






I have that same impact driver but with a regular drill. It's loving awesome and the battery life is nuts.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Oh, I got the Hackzall for Christmas too. It's nice in that unlike the M18 Sawzall, it does work with the compact batteries; everything I've found says the M18 Sawzall requires the full-size M18 batteries, and while I might pick some up eventually, I don't use these tools often enough to justify them now.

I haven't used it much at all yet but it does seem pretty loving sweet.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Ha, five minutes on the regular capacity battery? Yeah, I can see why they don't bother letting it use the half-size one.

I do love how fast they charge. Lithium batteries are the poo poo.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





stubblyhead posted:

only if it doesn't use electricity.

Seconded. Make sure you keep a fire extinguisher handy with that not-Sawzall.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, you really want to go lithium ion if you are willing to spend any non-trivial amount of money on power tools. The same tool will perform better (less internal resistance in the battery), run longer (higher capacity), and will even run harder with a depleted battery (lithiums have a very flat power curve, right up until they fall off completely). There's very little that you would be able to do with a full lithium that you wouldn't be able to do with a 75% discharged one, and that's not the case with NiCd or NiMH at all.

Also, you can charge the batteries so much quicker. My Milwaukee compact cells will go from completely dead to fully charged in 15 minutes, so there's no worry about having to charge packs in advance of doing a job.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I'd still say that the biggest problem you ran into is NiMH battery chemistry. Compared to lipos they are absolute dogshit. I raced power tools RC cars back before lipo was a thing and NiMH was a definite improvement over the NiCd garbage, but ultimately still had most of the same problems; hot packs would have horrible performance, so the only realistic way to get a full charge out of a pack was to start with it pre-charged and have a new pack for each full charge you want to use. It would take you forever to get a full charge into a hot pack, and trying to do so was a good way to kill your batteries too.

Lithium packs, on the other hand, can be recharged much, much faster without overheating or damage, and will deliver more usable power over the charge cycle. A NiMH pack at 25% charge is going to be quite noticeably weaker than one at 75% or 100%. A lithium pack will feel just about the same from 90% to 5-10%.

That said, I'd expect even high-capacity lithium packs to have trouble keeping up on a workload like that.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Oooh, those look nice. I've got a Black & Decker RTX that's closing in on 15 years old and while it's served me well, it started making some unsettling noises while I was working on cutting a steering shaft. I should probably try pulling it apart to see if I can grease / replace the bearings.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, old cordless poo poo was just poo poo.

Power tools and R/C cars have a lot of crossover - up until the '90s there was no such thing as a dedicated RC battery, so the sub-C cells were the exact same thing you'd find in any power tool. It's not like the ones "made for R/C" were all that different, though. And while my dad didn't have any cordless power tools back then (as he thought they were all crap), we did race 1/12 scale.

Let me tell you this, 1200 mAh NiCd cells plus a stock 540 motor does not make for much in the way of power, especially when you want it to run for eight minutes. And that's exactly what was in a power tool at the time, except it would have a wiper-resistor style trigger instead of an electronic speed control. Cheap lithium batteries, even with brushed motors like in my non-Fuel Milwaukee M18s or my dad's Ryobi Ones, are what really changed cordless drills and the like from being "well, you don't HAVE to plug it in" to "holy poo poo this thing can get work done".

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





HF toolboxes are supposedly way better than anything else for the money. I can tell you that a cheap Craftsman box is not; they're not bad but they aren't what they used to be.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I picked up this two years ago and it's done quite well. The pole isn't as easy to extend / collapse as I'd like, but I'd rather have that than have it flop around.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Save your receipts because Kastein has found out the hard way how Ryobi handles warranties, but the tools honestly aren't bad.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





the spyder posted:

For anyone looking for shop lights/has a costco membership, check out the 4ft LED T8 style fixtures from Felt Electric for $39.99. They are pretty well regarded on garage journal.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270879

drat, I wish I wasn't completely tapped out financially from holidays / vet bills / life in general right now.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





oxbrain posted:

Those holes are supposed to be a safety feature. I'm not sure what they protect against, but they're OSHA standard.

I can't stand that type of air gun. There is no control over pressure and they're uncomfortable to use. Get something like this,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO6E1E

Air-injection injuries, I guess? But yeah they're very much intentional and not much you can do about them other than not use that tip or just use a different airgun like that one.

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, I'm quite happy with this set: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-blow-gun-set-68260.html

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Speaking of tool addiction, I started my M12 habit tonight with a screwdriver that was an open box special at my local home depot for 25% off.

Yep, the red tool pile is going to get larger.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





It's definitely a bigger presence than when I got my M18 tools a few years ago. I'd say Ryobi still has more space total, probably because they make more yard work tools that work in that system, but there is still a lot of Milwaukee.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Hubis posted:

It might be wise to start up the vac and spray some disinfectant into the hose though to tamp out any mold that might accumulate in moisture that got into the blower, though.

Oh just grab some air freshener, you pansy.

Source: During a not-short period at my first job, the drains for the soda machines were too horrifically clogged and the owner was putting off the proper fix (which ended up being ripping them out and relaying new pipe). So we used a shopvac when they'd back up, at least three times a night. Yeah. That's a smell I'll never forget. :kheldragar:

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





On top of that, they provide more useful power (lower internal resistance) and their discharge curve means they're nearly as powerful when they're about to run out as they are when they're full. They also recharge much faster. The only 'disadvantage' is that they require a bit of circuitry so that you don't over-discharge them.

Is the hammerdrill really worth it? AVE on Youtube has torn a few down and is generally pretty critical of trying to actually use the hammer functions on them. I've never had to drill masonry/concrete anyway, but if I was I'd go rent a proper rotary hammer.

I can go forever on my M12 and M18 batteries without recharging them when I'm using my screwdriver / drill / impact driver. The only thing I have that I've ever dumped a battery in one sitting is my M18 Sawzall, but even then I can have one charging and one on the tool and still be fine.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Looks like it should take anything up to 2" in length. I'm pretty sure brads are mostly meant to hold light things on - only place I've used my nailer so far is replacing some floor molding.

It is quite satisfying shooting a nail home with just a pull off the trigger and a quick pop of compressed air, though.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Josh Lyman posted:

What the hell. I might as well get Home Depot brand then.

You'd honestly be better off. The worst ratchets I still have in my toolbox are all Craftsman, whereas the ones I actually use are a mix of Crescent (Costco), Husky (Home Depot), and Kobalt (Lowe's). The Craftsman ones easily have the worst action with the longest swing needed to engage the next tooth, the least comfortable handles, and aside from a special long-handled flex-head, the shortest handle relative to the size of the ratchet. I have a Crescent 3/8" drive that's about as long as my regular Craftsman 1/2" drive, and that's without even extending the handle.

The only reason I keep the Craftsman ratchets is a) that flex-head is the only one I have and b) they're hand-me-downs from my father-in-law. So they're still "good" era Craftsman tools (he died in 1995 and bought these tools well before then), but compared to everything else I've got they're still junk. They feel much closer to the absolute garbage ratchets you used to get in cheap Chinese sets at the time, than they do to anything modern.

They've been riding on their name for a long, long time.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Josh Lyman posted:

Is something like this actually useful, where you can just pump the handle to drive the ratchet? http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-inch-drive-mach-series-ratchet/p-00944578000P

I have a much simpler version, no flex head or anything like that - you can twist the handle or swing it like a normal ratchet. It comes in handy sometimes but you really can't build a whole lot of torque with it. I think I prefer my zero-degree ratchet, honestly.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





wormil posted:

Lowes has one today for $15. Costco sells a SnapOn that people rave about.

The only SnapOn (which at Costco is in name only) LED I've seen there is a plugin light. It's also pretty awesome.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yes, it's awesome. It's an adjustable that actually works as a wrench, instead of just being a Swedish nut-fucker.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





peepsalot posted:

Are there any power screwdrivers you guys would recommend? I'm talking like a compact light duty thing, I have a bunch of small M3 and M5 socket head bolts I need to assemble, i think a little motorized driver would speed things up a bit. Preferably something that runs on rechargeable lithium batteries.

My brother got me this for Christmas and while it's not going to replace my Milwaukee M12 1/4" driver, it is surprisingly nice. It doesn't have a variable speed trigger, but it is a lot cheaper than the Milawukee, and charges on USB.

Out of curiosity, what are you assembling these bolts into? Something that small, I might still go for the M12 instead because of the variable trigger and the clutch setup - set it to the loosest setting and you can run stuff home really quickly without worrying about over-torquing it, and finish it by hand.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah then I'd lean towards a M12 driver with the clutch if you can swing the cost.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Archives posted:

Just get a longer hose.

Yup, I had to nail some baseboards in a cramped bathroom where I really, really didn't like the idea of having to try and swing a hammer around a toilet. Bought an air nailer, a long hose, and a few couplers to hook it to the compressor in my garage. Worked great and was still cheaper than buying literally any cordless electric nailer by a long shot.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Really short nails, all into studs, and this was a few months ago. Yeah, I would have noticed a long time ago if one managed to go into pressurized copper plumbing.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Methylethylaldehyde posted:

I got This guy right here, and it's basically the best thing ever. About as loud as your 20 year old fridge when it kicks on, goes from dead to full in about 90 seconds, and it's got a 5.5 gal tank, which is enough to run pretty much anything intermittently.

:monocle: That's pretty damned awesome and if my twin-tank Costco compressor ever goes, I'd look for something like that to replace it. However:

Frogmanv2 posted:

Pretty sure you can add another tank to the system though. Probably cost more than just getting a bigger capacity in the first place though.

Methylethylaldehyde posted:

If 60 gal tanks didn't cost me $600, I'd add one to the system and it would be perfect.

I though adding big tanks to small compressors was a no-no since you'd run through the duty cycle of the compressor / motor just filling it up?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I just snagged this jig for doing rip cuts with a circular saw, haven't had a chance to use it yet.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





In the RC world, it's brushless all the way because of the massively lower maintenance. But in power tools nobody uses the stupid hard high conductivity brushes so you aren't shredding commutators.

I'd pay a small premium, but I've never felt my M18 brushed gear to be lacking for power in the least.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





uwaeve posted:

Two random questions:

Are more expensive stud finders better at locating studs, or do they simply have extra features?

I have never been as happy with any electronic studfinder as I have been with this little thing. Seemingly none of my house's studs are where they should be, either at 16"-on-center or 24"-on-center, so stud-mounting anything has always been a pain in the dick. I've had electronic ones false-positive repeatedly, but this one never misses.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I love my OMT for scraping caulk out of the bathtub. Works insanely well without any real risk of damage to the tub.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





You are correct, when dealing with lithium ion cells the difference between 20V and 18V is basically the difference between fully charged and 'nominal' voltage. They're all "5SxP" packs, meaning some combination of at least five cells in series, and one or more sets in parallel. Compact packs are 5S1P, most standard packs are probably 5S2P, some of the monsters AvE has been taking apart look like they're 5S3P. Nominal is 3.7V per cell, so 5x3.7 = 18.5. Fully charged is around 4.1-4.2, so you end up with 20V.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Uncle Enzo posted:

Tools: Dewalt, Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee: Just pick one Jesus

Red Jesus is better than Blue Jesus!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





CharlieWhiskey posted:

I like to keep one of these in each car:
http://www.amzn.com/B00009OYGZ/

I think I stumbled across it in this thread!

This is a godsend. Also, Wera laser tip screwdrivers (when they're on sale - normal price might push "inexpensive" for most people) and Nejisaurus screw removal pliers.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Thanks for all the advice folks. After thinking about it some more, though, I've decided to just hire a tree service to deal with this.

Tree removal is high on the benefit/cost scale for me. The service I use has reliably removed trees for me a few times and every time they do it in less time than it would take for me to just un-bury the chainsaw from the garage, let alone figure out how to not kill myself with falling wood.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003






Practical and safe!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Rutibex posted:

I wonder if this will finally satisfy my tool lust.....


Metal Geir Skogul posted:

Get two angle grinders.

It will never, ever, be satisfied.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





n0tqu1tesane posted:

I've never understood why someone would want to pay over $20/gal for ethanol free gas with or without premix oil.

Of course, I guess everywhere might not have access to ethanol free at the gas pump like we do here, but still, paying that kind of money for gasoline seems insane. I buy lots of ethanol free for my boat, and keeping a few stabilized gallons back for my other power tools is pretty easy.

Motronic posted:

I can't get it (E0) anywhere close, and this several month old can of what I can get that also had marine sta-bil in it made it run like absolute rear end.

I don't think I can get E0 anywhere remotely near, except maybe race fuel. So yeah I pay a bit more for the canned fuel for the weed whacker, and I maybe go through a can every year or so.

I do dump StaBil in the C10's tank, but I've had bad luck with it in two strokes.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





B-Nasty posted:

Funny...I just got stopped at the local courthouse this morning for having that tool on my keychain. Luckily, all they do there is hang on to your keys and give you a claim ticket for when you come back, but if the airport catches that, you're going to lose it.

Yeah, given that I lost a Leatherman CS that way, that would probably still get caught.

Is there any sort of keychain multitool that has a blade useful for opening boxes (pretty much the only thing I use a knife for) and a decent screwdriver?

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





TooMuchAbstraction posted:


I hadn't realized that buying a dust collector was a project, though. :v:

Everything is a project if you try hard enough.

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