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How the hell have we functioned this long without a general tool recommendation/review/bragging thread? General Info The first question you should ask yourself when making a tool purchase is, "Am I buying this tool to use, or am I buying this tool just because I want to own it." The various tasks and hobbies we use tools to accomplish should be completely separated from the, completely different but legitimate, hobby of tool collection. Tools are great, they separate us from animals and help us stay busy in the garage on weekends instead of accompanying love ones to boring social events. So, if you have questions on which ratchet to buy or if you want to caution others about the ever dipping quality of Craftsman tools or even if you just want to show off your new shinny piece of metal let's do it here. Also, advice on how to convince loved ones about the necessity of owning more tools is always appreciated.
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Jan 24, 2011 19:53
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kid sinister posted:Their quality may have dipped, but their warranty hasn't! Free replacements are always nice, especially decades later when that tool now costs twice as much. It also applies to garden tools. I was mostly being tongue in cheek because anytime you talk about tools and tool quality you will eventually have someone chime in about how the mighty Craftsman brand have fallen. I actually own a ton of craftsman tools, a decent portion are older hand-me-downs though. I'd say, just stay away from their power tools, those have a crappy 1 year warranty and have turned to utter poo poo. I bought an old metal craftsman belt sander at an estate sale for ~$10 awhile back and I could have cried when I compared it to the 1990s era plastic belt sander I previously had. The motor, weight, tracking... everything was just so much better, even after being fairly heavily used and being 20-30 years older. The newer plastic one now gathers dust in a drawer somewhere, I keep meaning to try and dump it on my buddy since I know he doesn't have one. jackyl, as far as the harbor freight stuff goes I'll say this, if you need it to get you through 3-4 decent sized projects, you know what you're doing and possibly how to fix an occasional goof up then they will be fine. Most tile projects have the luxury of "throw out the bad tile, grab a new one." If you are rip cutting marble, start reconsidering. I've seen some pretty solid work on some lovely wet saws but I'll stop short of actually recommending any of those because I just can't bring myself to recommend Harbor Freight brand power tools. Most of my hate is due to personal and second hand experience on their longevity. No matter what you get, make sure the fence is micro-adjustable and that you have some money put aside for calibration tools to help you adjust it, if you don't already own some or can't borrow some. If you can adjust the fence and the arbor doesn't let the blade wiggle under pressure you'll have a fairly useful tool.
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Jan 25, 2011 00:36
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iForge posted:Craftsman 10 inch table saw Is that the ~$100 model they sell? If so, I nearly killed myself with that loving thing. I dismantled it and harvested the engine so that no one else could possibly hurt themselves on it. The stand was so flimsy that a 1/2" sheet of plywood made the whole thing shift unpredictably, the engine was always underpowered on anything harder than 2/4s and the safety attachments were so badly designed that IMHO they made the drat thing more dangerous.
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Jan 25, 2011 15:11
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Here's something I think most home owners should own. RIDGID Power Spin Drain Gun http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100048949/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 It's such a basic tool that I don't think the brand matters too much, but I really like this little drill attachment that I picked up a couple years ago. It always seems like the clog is a little past the 6' drain snakes and plunging is tiring. With this thing it's pretty straight forward, just put the drill on low and take it fairly slow or else the entire thing will tend to get tangled. Considering a visit from a plumber around here starts at $100 this guy has saved me something like $400 over 5 years between here and my wife's store. Of course, latex or nylon gloves and safety glasses are highly recommended.
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Jan 28, 2011 06:26
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Delivery McGee posted:But now I can't get the head back off. Sounds like it's fixed to me, then!
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Jan 29, 2011 17:54
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Anyone have recommendations on chainsaws? The one I have: http://www.poulanpro.com/node7967.aspx?pid=210963 is kinda poo poo. I mean, it works wonders if your just doing some branch trimming or taking down some 8-12" sapling but the moment you start getting into anything large it starts cutting like a hot knife into granite. Oh and just to give a full review on that chainsaw... It's fairly easy to start, engine holds up well but the chain has some real trouble staying tight. Luckily they knew about this flaw and provided a tool-less chain tightener that honestly is mediocre at best but at least convenient. Overall, if your not actually cutting large trees down you could do worse for the money. It just isn't big enough for the heavy jobs. Is there anything better that won't run me over $400 or so? Anubis fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Feb 13, 2011 |
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Feb 13, 2011 02:08
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I was always told that you don't want to leave air in there overnight, ever. Especially if it's going to get cold where you store your tank. Rust on the inside can lead to a pretty dangerous situation.
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Mar 3, 2011 22:11
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Cakefool posted:Does anyone have advice on airless paint sprayers? I have an entire house to paint, plus a shed later, I'm willing to spend up to £100 but less would be nice. I'll be painting with ordinary matt & silk emulsions & some sort of stain for the shed My advice is, don't. Maybe someone has better experience but those things (short of the very expensive professional grade which still makes a mess) are trash. You end up using a bunch more paint and doing a lovely job while your at it. But that's just my experience, maybe someone else knows a good one.
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Mar 29, 2011 14:09
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My Ryobi reciprocating saw got through a 1/4" thick 6" diameter steel pole. Frankly, any of them are going to be able to slice through soft pine like butter but when looking up reviews for your situation, find a tool who's batteries are high quality and recharge well. Then don't skimp on decent blades for it. Keeping a sharp blade on it will turn that sort of thing into a no brainier.
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Apr 21, 2011 16:14
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Sockser posted:Wooooo. Babby's first power tools Not sure you want to hear this, but if you take reasonable care of them those two will NEVER die. Old heavy B&D tools were the poo poo and outside of maybe needing a new arbor or a new cord you can expect to use those for the next 20 years or so.
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May 6, 2011 06:41
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The Human Cow posted:My girlfriend got me a Bosch router kit (this one) for my birthday, and I'm super excited to get home and play with it. I've used a router sparingly in the past but never had my own...is there anything important I need to know before I start messing around with it? It spins really fast, 10k+ rpm for most models. Be sure your workpiece is secured so you don't send something flying and be mindful of the sharp parts. Oh and always wear your safety glasses!
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May 6, 2011 18:19
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ibpooks posted:It's actually pretty surprising to me that (workman's comp) insurance companies haven't yet mandated SawStop saws in professional shops. Certain companies give fairly substantial discounts to people using Stop Saws already, honestly for a pro shop I can't understand why anyone wouldn't buy them. Even if the workman's comp insurance pays for the injuries and rehab you are still missing an employee and hence losing money when they are out. Full disclosure: I own one in my private little wood shop. My wife and mother both pressed me to spend the extra money for their own piece of mind. Gotta say that I think it's well worth it when I compare my setup to price comparable cabinet saws. Anubis fucked around with this message at 22:14 on May 25, 2011 |
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May 25, 2011 22:11
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Iskariot posted:I strongly dislike Sawstop because it's so obvious that the inventor is lobbying his rear end off for his product. He's a patent lawyer isn't he? I'm all for safety, I even support enforcing rules, but not due to some prick trying to get a license to print money. That's the industry line, sure. The other side is that when it first came out saw manufacturers were afraid that since a single guy managed to outdo all their engineers in designing major safety features (after years of saying that there was no possible solution) the lawsuits would start coming out of the woodwork, so to speak. So, when the saws first started being produced a fairly effective FUD campaign was launched pushing the same points you brought up along with claims that the system itself was unreliable. The truth might be somewhere in the middle of those two stories but if the industry really has been pouring millions of dollars a year into product safety like they claim then the fact that this one guy came around and managed to out engineer the industry's combined efforts then the man certainly deserves to get paid. Hell, paying him would likely be cheaper than all that R&D they claim to be doing all the time.
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May 26, 2011 05:18
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Iskariot posted:I haven't studied the actual Sawstop saws, just the mechanism used to stop the blade. It's pretty cool but misfires quite a lot if you're working with humid wood according to a British woodworking forum. If you are lucky you need to change the blade and mechanism, unlucky and the whole frame under the table becomes crooked due to the massive force of stopping the blade and motor dead. Small price for your fingers, pretty expensive if your wood piece was a bit damp. For what it's worth, there is an override mode for when you need to cut very moist wood or metal. That, of course, turns off the brake and you have to remember to do it for every cut. During that override mode the lights on the front will blink a certain way if the brake would have been engaged during the cut. Last year I did a series of tests with a piece of scrap 2x4 that I accidentally left half sitting in standing water. It took till the most wet part till the brake would have been engaged. Supposedly it won't go off for small nails either but I make an effort not to put anything with nails in it through my table saw so I couldn't report on that. If some people were interested I could likely do some more in depth tests on camera to see how moist the wood has to be before a brake would be engaged. Anubis fucked around with this message at 03:34 on May 27, 2011 |
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May 27, 2011 03:11
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Getting back to the purpose of the thread for a little bit: My trimmer head is a piece of poo poo that I've always hated. Takes me 20-30 minutes to load the drat thing and although I only have to do that twice a year it's annoying enough that often times I just don't trim for 4-5 weeks at a time if it runs empty. After talking to a coworker I picked up this: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202052369/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Assembly was fairly straight forward after consulting my trimmer manual on how to get the old head off. I didn't quite tighten it enough the first time but it didn't come flying off or anything, just wiggled very slightly. The good news: Works as advertised. I have a big yard and the entire back yard has chain link enclosing it but I only had to change the strings once. Changing them is quick and easy assuming you have some pre-measured and cut. I could see a potential problem if the string broke right up against the hole and you didn't have enough string on the inside to pull it through but in my one use that didn't cause a problem for me, and you could likely use another string to push the remaining string through, hopefully. It also enables me to potentially use a thicker gauge string line than the previous head, which I assume would both cut better and wear down slower. Overall rating: 4/5 Anubis fucked around with this message at 03:29 on May 27, 2011 |
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May 27, 2011 03:26
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I've seen railroad ties mean two different things. Landscaping timbers are significantly smaller, usually around 8' in length and about 6"x6" with rounded corners but they are commonly referred to as railroad ties especially at big box stores like Lowes. These can be treated with chemicals but should be clean from any pieces of metal that would mess up a blade. Second one is an actual railroad tie, usually reused. Those tend to have a bunch of nasty chemicals and possibly metal in them. Just so everyone is on the same page, which ones are you considering using? Anubis fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Jun 6, 2011 |
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Jun 6, 2011 22:07
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Has anyone used one of these alaskan sawmills before? http://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Chain-Mill-Model-G777/dp/B000AMFY90/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317916128&sr=8-1 Do they work well? I'm afraid my Poulan chainsaw might not have enough power but a coworker is taking down some black walnut trees and was just planning on burning the wood! I don't own a band saw and even if I did I doubt I could convince other people to help me process the logs quickly enough so I was considering going this route.
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Oct 6, 2011 16:57
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Hypnolobster posted:Ideally you need a chainsaw with a lot of rear end for chainsaw mills. I've done it with a Stihl 440 and 660 and it works fine, although it's still not terribly fast. Ripping with a chainsaw tends to clog up, get fairly hot and take quite a while. It makes some gigantic strings of wood rather than chips. Hmmm, I have a 46cc 20" Poulan. If the blades are sharp and time isn't really a huge issue (as long as it's not taking an hour per 6' or anything stupid like that) do you think I could handle 10-12" wide logs? I know I'd be way under powered for 16-18" but if I could even do a 10" wide run that would make it worth my while. The portable mill companies aren't really interested in coming out unless they are getting a couple hundred board feet. This thing wasn't that huge but it would be plenty big enough for me to get a few dozen board feet of hardwood out of it of plus I'd have a tool for next time I want to do something like this. (And having more tools is always better, right?)
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Oct 7, 2011 00:58
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ExplodingSims posted:So, I found this guy selling a 60 gallon air compressor for $100, and he just slashed it down to $75. Now, I guess he replaced the original motor with something smaller, and it would need a larger one to get back to full power. So any ideas how hard/expensive would it be to get a motor and install it on this? Any good recommendations for a motor while we're at it. Yeah, I'm with the guy above me. It's hard to tell from the picture but it looks like it's possibly been stored outside, which just screams rusted. If it's rusted or dented then it's not anything you want to mess with, an abused tank can blow with some non-insignificant force if you aren't careful.
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Oct 12, 2011 19:43
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Alright, so to further my efforts to become just short of competent at a wide variety of manly tasks, I am going to try and learn to weld this next year. This means buying an inexpensive welder that I won't feel bad about collecting dust if I hate it. I know it's a sore subject but I'm actually considering either: http://www.harborfreight.com/120-amp-arc-welder-98870.html or http://www.harborfreight.com/120-amp-230-volt-mig-and-flux-welder-97503.html With the second gaining a little preference since I could turn it into a mig setup later on in life. There are a few more options on Amazon but I'm a bit weary since I don't recognize many of the names and there wouldn't be a convenient store to return it to. Opinions/ideas?
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Nov 29, 2011 00:21
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Anyone have experience with this Grizzly band saw (or have other recommendations on the subject?) http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G0555-Ultimate-14-22-Bandsaw/dp/B0000DD0AC I'd like to stay in the $500-700 range (shipped) but if there just isn't anything that's going to not be a giant headache I could bump it up to maybe http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17091 or http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020041/18855/Rikon-14-Deluxe-Bandsaw.aspx That would mean I don't get a new lathe, though.
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Dec 16, 2011 23:55
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kdabr posted:The polar bear edition of that grizzly is the best bargain on the market, at $500 shipped. The rikon is obviously a lot nicer, but is nearly twice as much. I've used both, and for half the money, the grizzly is a nice saw (with an inexcusably bad included blade) Good call on the polar bear edition, it was $50 cheaper then the standard with the only difference being the paint. (Plus I think the all white looks nicer but that's not something I put a high value on with my tools.) Just bought it and hopefully it will be delivered next Monday or so.
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Dec 19, 2011 21:18
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Found this today on Make. For people who appreciate form over function, have some hand engraved hand tools to drool over. http://catharinekennedy.com/ Man, those are pretty planes.
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Jan 9, 2012 19:00
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wormil posted:Sometimes it seems the more I sand, the more defects I uncover and need to sand out. Woodworkers are notorious perfectionists, sometimes to a fault. I blame crappy veneers and plastics teaching us that the only texture an object should have is glassy smooth.
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Feb 10, 2012 21:42
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stubblyhead posted:I'd like to get one of those bladed head replacements for my string trimmer. I have an electric though, and the ones I've seen say they'll work with most gas trimmers. Is it ok to use these with an electric, or is there a model that is? I recommend something like this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=10946282&kw=trimmer+head&origkw=Trimmer+head&searchId=55743962514 If you aren't doing small trees or other bush type stuff that might require a blade, this is your best bet. It doesn't require the same kind of power that the solid blade ones do and if you find that you are underpowered you can just remove one of the sets of string and it should make it work, even if your electric is underpowered. The quick change is so much nicer then fighting the stupid normal stringers heads. Just cut and toss a few sets of replacements in your back pocket and the process takes about 5 seconds to swap out.
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May 14, 2012 16:14
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stubblyhead posted:It seems that Ace Hardware now carries Craftsman tools. Does anyone know if they also honor the lifetime replacement warranty on hand tools? I have something I want to get replaced, and the Ace is a lot closer than Sears is. Ace stores tend to be independently owned, as such it'll vary a bit store to store. Generally the policy is, if they carry it and have it in stock they will honor the replacement warranty but they aren't going to custom order a replacement to a tool they don't normally carry.
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Jun 10, 2013 18:50
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I think it's time I bought a chainsaw. My current project is rehabbing a fruit tree orchard. I've done fine so far with lopper, manual pole saw and chipper but now I have a bunch of larger limbs that won't fit into the chipper because they're too big or not at all straight. I don't think those little electric guys are worth the hassle, personally. My grandfather gave me one and anything above 3" seems to be a lot for it to manage. I have one of these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Poulan-PRO-18-in-42-cc-Gas-Chainsaw-PP4218AVX/202367634#.UbzZRNj3Pju as my "little" chainsaw. It's actually taken quite a bit of abuse from me over past few years. I've ran questionably old gas through it and it didn't gum it up, though of course there was a performance hit at the time. The tool-less tightening isn't horrible but I'd prefer a tool tightening system. The chain break did lock up and that took me about an hour to fix (read: rip off and carry on). Besides all my limb work I've used it to fell something like 8 medium to small trees and one ill-advised go with it as a really underpowered Alaskan saw mill. I did, just today, replace the whole side panel with the brake and chain tightening, because the chain tightener gears finally stripped plus my wife really didn't like the fact that I ripped a safety feature off a chainsaw. Then again, she has to look at my face if it snaps back at me and I can just avoid mirrors, so maybe that's fair. The part only cost $30 shipped from an online parts store and besides chains, gas and oil that's the only money I've put into it over ~3-4 years. All in all, it has it's problems and certainly wouldn't be what I'd want to use if I was doing this for a living but it's going to be worlds above what an electric saw can do. And if you get an electric you just know your going to have something become too big come falling out next week.
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Jun 15, 2013 22:31
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If we were to assume that money was of no object (it never isn't but let's go ahead and start there), what is the best hand drill (corded or cordless) in people's opinions? It's mostly for woodworking, so if that affects any opinions. I've been using a cordless ryobi 18v cordless (which has been reasonable but the batteries are dying) and an old 70/80s craftsman plug in that is slowly dying. Christmas time says it's time to get something nice. Currently looking at the Makita LXT218 combo: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LXT218-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B001EYUQPK Which has a very highly rated drill according to Consumer Reports. Anubis fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Dec 26, 2013 |
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Dec 26, 2013 07:01
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JPrime posted:Not sure if this has been posted previously, but I just got this from Amazon: Some days I look around this house and really doubt that half the drywall screws are properly secured into a stud... For the cordless tools that I was talking about earlier, I ended up buying a combo driver/impact milwakee 18v and then a tool only hammer drill to match. Expensive but hopefully they will make it 10 years. They all seem horrifically overpowered compared to most of what I do, so I'm trying to keep them all on low and be careful. 
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Jan 19, 2014 05:33
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dwoloz posted:Ive heard the saw stops can be inadvertently triggered by wet wood or metal. True? I mostly missed the sawstop chat! To verify the answer, yes. Usually it has to be something bigger than just a brad nail or staple but I try not to run that crap through my tablesaw anyway for sake of my blade. Wet wood is a pretty non-issue in my home tests, I finally got it to register (you can disable the feature and the lights will tell you if it would have triggered) by leaving a 2x4 in a puddle of water for a couple hours and running that through. If there's ever a question about it especially green wood or if I'm for some reason (laziness and my bandsaw has the wrong blade on) prepping an especially green piece of turning wood, I'll pop it into the ignore mode.
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Apr 16, 2014 02:31
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the spyder posted:Not so much a tool recommendation- but I need a new BBQ, any recommendations? I've cooked for years on charcoal and am not adverse to making my own. Propane is also fine. When you say BBQ do you mean BBQ or do you mean grill? Important distinction here. My buddy and I both have this guy: http://www.amazon.com/Char-Griller-2828-Deluxe-Charcoal-Grill/dp/B008IXFYJS which with the additional smoker attachment does a good job on ribs and the occasional brisket. It's lasted a number of years already without the best of care. It's certainly no Big Green Egg but it's also a few hundred bucks cheaper and can do a better job with large grilling tasks too. I wouldn't try to make your own unless you are decent at metal work already and you can source drums that you are 100% positive didn't have nasty stuff in them. Do not get a Webber. Those things are the overpriced junk of the grilling market at this point. But note that none of my advice or knowledge applies to propane.
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May 31, 2014 17:06
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Deedle posted:Any circular saw can make dadoes, as long as you can set the saw depth. I've only ever seen saws that take dado stacks over in the USA and Canada. Over here tool shops don't sell dado stacks, nor have I ever seen a saw that could mount one. Dear lord, that's horrible if true. Dado stacks are so nice for setting up a ton of repeatable cuts in a hurry.
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Aug 14, 2014 13:32
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melon cat posted:I'm in the market for a tilecutter, but I'm seeing them priced anywhere from $40 to $600. What's a good price point for a half-decent tilecutter? And what brands are good for a guy like me who's just doing the occasional re-tile? Usually this depends on A) what your tolerance for bad cuts are, most tile jobs it's really no biggie to toss a few tiles you screwed up on but if you are working with expensive stuff a bad cut could be a $20-100 mistake. Some tile jobs it'd be hard to notice and easy to cover up mistakes, others you'll end up regretting every single mediocre cut you make. It all depends on what you are doing. B) what's your tolerance for making a huge loving mess is. They will all make a mess, some of them will leak like crazy.
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Oct 6, 2014 12:43
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MrPete posted:No but I'd like to try one out. Hope it doesn't suck cos I just spent 37 bucks on a 3 metre tape! I demand a review when you get it. That thing looks awesome for woodworking.
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Oct 24, 2014 05:41
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melon cat posted:I've decided that I'm in the market for an air compressor. I saw a 100 PSI Campbell Hausfeld one at a local Cash Converter for $70, but I don't know anything about these machines. What features should I be looking for in an air compressor if I'm just going to be using it for inflating tires and brad nails? And is there anything wrong with buying this type of tool used? Used compressors, especially if they have been stored improperly, will have a lot of rust on the inside of the tank. In theory this could cause the tank to rupture under pressure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVP_A7eGYxw (No deaths here but someone did get badly injured...) Long story short, don't buy an old air compressor if you don't know how it was maintained, how old it is, if it looks at all banged up or if you don't know how to judge if a tank is rusted out from the inside. It's really rare that something like that would happen but it's not one of those tools worth saving $70 to buy a 15 year old version. As far as the size goes, me and my buddy use a 20 gallon tank because it's a pretty solid compromise between portability and usability. The big thing is the CFM though, not the actual tank size. With a good enough engine a 2 gallon tank could keep up better than a 20 gallon under powered tank. Bigger tanks just allow you to "cheat" on the engine size more. Noise is another thing I'd strongly consider if I was buying a new one because if you are running this thing indoors or inside a garage a compressor can be REALLY noisy. Like my wood planer isn't even that noisy.
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Oct 29, 2014 05:00
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melon cat posted:I understand. But how big of a compressor are we talking? Would that MAC700 I mentioned earlier be sufficient? The only mobility I'd ever need is to occasionally haul the unit into our house to use the brad nailer during renovations, and that wouldn't be too often. Get something just a little bigger than that. 3.5-4cfm should be good if you are careful about the impact wrench that you buy. For example this is a 720ft/lb 5cfm impact wrench: http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-1-2-in-professional-composite-impact-wrench/p-00919865000P Long story short, it wouldn't work well. However you could likely get away with this 500ft/lb 3.9cfm @ 90 version: http://www.amazon.com/BOSTITCH-BTMT72391-2-Inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00F3ZY508/ But hearing all your requirements let's try something completely different. How about you buy a giant gently caress off one that who cares how loud it is and then buy 2-4 50' hoses that are set up male to female (Or if you can find them I know they make 100'+ hoses) to stretch all the way into your house for when you need to do finishing nails inside the house? Or how about a 3rd option. What do we do when we don't have a strong enough tool? Buy more tools! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFRYlwnuNZ8 Fair warning, I've never done this and this guy might be a idiot or maybe a genius wizard because this looks brilliant but for all I know it could fail horribly. I might try it to set up a better wood finishing setup. the spyder posted:Some generally decently helpful comments about air compressors. I'll say this about this post: 1) Don't buy a used tank if you don't know how to tell if a tank is rusting from the inside. 2) The problem with HF pneumatic tools is not their longevity, it's their power to cfm usage. I have several and after buying some better ones I can most certainly tell that the HF ones were just straight up inefficient with their air use. I don't have a test lab to prove anything but I wouldn't trust their ratings, of course this doesn't matter if you buy a way too powerful compressor but you have to weigh the pros and cons there for yourself. Anubis fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Nov 3, 2014 |
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Nov 3, 2014 02:31
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bfads.net is always good for early scans. I'm really tempted by the 52" craftsman 20 drawer rolling tool chest. It might actually be big enough for me to store the majority of my crap where I can actually find it. Also, if I ever get gently caress You rich I'm just buying one of these and calling it done: http://www.amazon.com/Williams-WSC-1390SAE-Mammoth-Fractional-1390-Piece/dp/B00GQTVH24/ Anubis fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Nov 8, 2014 |
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Nov 8, 2014 02:42
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uwaeve posted:Here is the review of the Harbor Freight tool chest that convinced me to buy one. Guy dissects ball bearing tracks and crawls around on the floor comparing gussets or whatever. Cheap and works great. Hmm, that's pretty convincing. Right now, it'd be between 3 options. That craftsman 52" with the top included for $1k, the HF 56" set for $1,230 (bottom and top) or a wildcard option of buying 2 of the 44" HF bottom chests on sale and not bothering picking up the overpriced top piece which would run $700 on thanksgiving weekend. The big advantage to the craftsman is that I like the drawer setup a little better but buying 2 of the HF ones and having the option later on to add on if floor space becomes even more of a premium is drat tempting. Especially after reading the reviews. Ok, the space I'm clearing out on Tuesday (God willing) is 90" wall to wall. That pretty much means I have a divine sign to put in the full 88" of HF tool storage space, correct? Anubis fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Nov 10, 2014 |
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Nov 10, 2014 04:35
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I got those two 44" HF tool chests like I had previously said. Initial impressions are all very very good. I could have used one or two slightly deeper drawers so I could put my circular saw in but my routers fit and I now have a permanent enclosed place to put the vast majority of my stuff, which feels good.
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Dec 1, 2014 14:03
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 03:30 |
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Has anyone bought one of the Milwaukee M12 hoodies? I never knew such things existed and now am really curious how well they work.
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Dec 16, 2014 05:52
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