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Lifted up the floorboards downstairs and in what is becoming a pattern for this house found something underneath: The original owner also built it (in 1908) so I'm guessing this is some "tool that built the house" voodoo.
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May 31, 2017 16:02
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 21:00 |
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peepsalot posted:What prompted you to remove the floorboards, a mysterious hammering sound? Don't be superstitious, it was the wails of petrified children.
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May 31, 2017 16:10
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(used child's shoe found in the ceiling of the same room)
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May 31, 2017 16:11
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I'd love to get some nailgun recommendations from y'all. I'm UK based. I have about 250m of larch cladding to fit. It will probably be a hidden nail version. It's my understanding that these should be fitted with austenitic stainless steel ring-shank nails at least 2" long, and since it's siberian larch they recommend predrilling. First question; if I'm going to be predrilling anyway, is there much benefit to buying a nailgun, or should I just use a normal hammer or fix them with screws? (I have an impact driver already). If it is worth it then I may as well also do my own skirting and architraves with it, which I believe should be done with brads? If so then either the nail gun would need to take both, or I'd need to buy different nailers.
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May 12, 2018 13:59
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cakesmith handyman posted:Whilst you can fire 2"+ ring shank nails with a gun you're looking at a £500+ gun and gas and batteries before you even buy the nails. Screws should be fine I think, not from experience of Larch cladding however. I'd get an autofeed screw gun and a battery drill and dual-wield those bad boys. I think it's a both or neither situation, really. Having skirting/architraves done is reasonably high skill but commoditised, so if I don't have another reason to buy the kit I'll hire someone. What negative experience have you had with the larch? The spax screws I've been looking at state no predrill needed except for "very hard woods", though it doesn't specify what "very hard" means. Various charts seem to put siberian larch somewhere in the middle.
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May 12, 2018 22:09
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OK so I've just bought 300m of cladding and I'm gonna need to cut it. So, power mitre saw, right? If you have any specific recommendations that'd be splendid, but more practically are there any features of a mitre saw that you feel I should be looking for? While I'll only be doing a few actual 45 degree mitres, I'm told the best way to lap the boards lengthways is with a scarf joint, and there'll be lots of those. Uncut lengths around 4m.
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May 26, 2018 12:55
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Mr. Mambold posted:Who told you scarf joint was best? Maybe that's a regional thing? The carpenter who runs the cladding company I'm buying from. This is opposed to a butt joint. (you probably know that, just making sure I didn't miscommunicate) Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 14:38 on May 26, 2018 |
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May 26, 2018 14:36
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Let me clarify. The cladding I’m buying is designed to interlock row by row to provide a watertight surface. Since it’s random lengths I asked them what needs to be done when two boards are put end to end, how do I maintain the water tightness. He recommended a scarf joint, which from googling involves putting the boards together via an angled cut rather than normal 90• cuts.
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May 26, 2018 16:01
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:They are talking about where the boards overlap lengthwise. Not a mitered corner but I've seen people flip boards and 45 them. I've done them at 22.5 Yeah this. Though I didn’t have an angle picked out.
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May 26, 2018 16:08
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Squibbles posted:I'm no carpenter but I thought the way you kept cladding water tight was to overlap each row by about 50% then just make sure the butt joint on any particular row doesn't line up with joint on the row above or below. That way any water going through the butt joint gets blocked by the row below it. Not that kind of cladding; this profile is flat and interlocks a short way, so there will be a significant amount of face with nothing behind it. A tilting-head mitre saw is how I was expecting to tackle this, but I'm no woodworker either. TBH having these joints water tight is a nice to have, the wall behind is already water tight.
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May 26, 2018 16:26
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As it happens a friend has offered to lend me her saw so I'll see what it offers and buy my own only if it doesn't do the trick. Regarding scarf joints, this is perhaps better suited for the woodworking thread, but since there's some surprise here that that was the recommendation, would there be an alternative?
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May 26, 2018 16:32
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I mean, the guy said "scarf joint" so I assume he meant the longer version if that's what it is. I think it's moot, since I remembered I'm going to have to butt the boards up to the trim square anyway, so if I'm caulking that I may as well save effort and do the same on the mid-board joins.
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May 26, 2018 17:54
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I don’t know much about mowers so I won’t comment there, but have you ruled out some very beefy gas powered weed whacker devices? Seems like it might save you some time and money if you’re going to walk the trails anyway, and less prone to taking damage from twigs and rocks.
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May 27, 2018 15:02
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Speaking of drills, I can recommend Makita for ease of repair, I had to replace a burnt out motor in one and it was p simple.
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May 28, 2018 09:52
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Is there an equivalency between circular blades of different sizes and their number of teeth? As a blade gets larger you necessarily need more teeth to achieve the same individual tooth size. So if I'm thinking I probably need an 80 tooth blade for a 210mm saw for fine cuts on dense wood (though I could be wrong about that), what sort of tooth count would I be looking for at a larger blade size? Are there any advantages to larger blades other than the cut width? I borrowed a saw from a friend but it's one of the Evolution multi-purpose ones with a custom bore size and low-tooth low-RPM blade that I'd rather not use for my cladding.
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May 28, 2018 13:48
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Sounds.. complicated
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May 28, 2018 21:44
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After lots of comparison shopping I went for this boy: http://www.bosch-professional.com/middle-east/en/sliding-mitre-saw-gcm-800-sj-226567-0601b19000.html With an extra bosch optiline wood 2mm 60 teeth blade. I'll use the 48 tooth blade it comes with for cutting construction lumber.
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May 30, 2018 13:00
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Tim Thomas posted:that's a good saw, and your paint grade trim will be fine with the 48 Different use case, this is unpainted Siberian larch cladding.
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May 30, 2018 15:21
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Electric mowers have been the standard for longer than I've been alive. Flymo had quite a bit of mindshare for a while, their main selling points being a hovercraft effect which makes it easier to mow tight spaces as you can move it in any direction, and they compact quite well, supposedly. I've never used one.
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May 30, 2018 22:14
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tangy yet delightful posted:He's from blighty and with their 10ft x20ft yards they mow em plugged up. No way he means actually good battery powered mowers. Tim Raines IRL posted:huh, interesting. I had no idea that was a normal thing ~30 years ago, but I grew up in the woods. Yes this. Wired electric was (and for the most part still is) the norm on these shores. I've seen exactly one gas-powered mower in the hands of a regular resident in my 30+ years of life and that's the guy who lives across the road from me and uses it to overkill the 6x10 patch of grass in front of his house. Maybe he has a big back garden.
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May 31, 2018 08:51
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Just spent an hour setting up my new mitre saw. The fence was pretty fiddly to get square and equal, in the end I grabbed my longest level and used that as a baseline. I suspect my square.. well.. isn't. Glad I had some WD40 on hand because the blade nut was seized fast.
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Jun 5, 2018 23:31
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I needed a new plane because mine is cheap and crap. Rather than buy a new Stanley or what have you which have a bad rep these days, I bought an old one, in not bad condition. I don’t know the exact age but based on the packaging I’m going to say 70s. Now I need to spend some time tidying it up.    
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Jun 7, 2018 21:52
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£58 delivered off of eBay
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Jun 7, 2018 22:10
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A bit of a design flaw on the Bosch mitre saw 
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Jul 7, 2018 17:52
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:You dont need to use that clamp to cut through a 2x2, just hold it against the rail well clear from the blade with your off hand. Doesn't that post rotate out? Or switch the post to the other side so it doesnt hit the housing? Lol that is funny though I prefer to control the blade with my right hand and the offcut to the right is long enough that I want the clamp to hold it after the cut. I cut it left-handed this time. You're right, it could rotate when the support wings are extended and it has something to push against, that's probably the better move. It's more of an issue on the good wood where I need it well-clamped than this stuff.
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Jul 7, 2018 18:02
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Doesn't that post rotate out? Much better 
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Jul 8, 2018 18:50
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I've just bought a Bosch GKT 55 GCE with track. This being my first track saw, are there any useful little bits I should get too? I have a bunch of normal clamps about but nothing special.
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Sep 11, 2018 19:57
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:drat thats a sweet saw Thanks! I've been liking my time with the bosch mitre saw so it seemed like a good idea to stick with it, even if the blades aren't compatible sizes. Harry Potter on Ice posted:be aware it doesn't have a riving knife Good call. I'm aware of their purpose on table saws, how do you mitigate the risk with track saws? MrPete posted:For breaking down sheet goods I like to square the end after a rip, so would suggest getting the angle guide (FSNWAN) and an extra rail connector (FSNVEL) comes in handy if you for some reason need to attach both rails AND the square to do the long side. Fortunately I am in the UK! I went for a 1600 and 800 rail plus a connector, I'll keep these in mind if I see a need. MrPete posted:Other than that, I think the clamps (FSNSZW) might come with the saw now? Otherwise they are OK but expensive for what they are really. Look around for clamps to fit mafell tracks too, that's the oem for bosch. I hope so, because 30 quid for a couple of clamps, dang. Harry Potter on Ice posted:For sure, I remember your posts and you're clearly knowledgeable enough to speak on these things, the person buying their first track saw asking about blades who had trouble with their clamps blocking their miter saw housing might not I am not an experience woodworker  Case in point:MrPete posted:The stock blade is pretty good, have used it for plywood, mdf and hardwood. With the hardwood I just took itty bitty bites and even with the high tooth count it did OK. Infinity tools in the US has blades that will fit. Haven't bothered yet cos the stock one is still ticking along fine after 4 years. Just keep it clean and it cuts forever. You're supposed to use fewer teeth on harder wood? MrPete posted:As for square cuts... framing square yea? I'm poor so maybe $100 for the system is worth it but imo not necessary, but if you have the $ hell yea go for it. Buy all the sexy tools you can afford. I also mixed up jaded burnout with someone from the woodworking thread asking about ripping plywood down for block printing which probably wouldn't need that perfect 90 whoops! Right now I'll be using it for a) cutting down marine ply and b) trimming doors, i.e. replacing the things I'd use a jigsaw and mostly-steady hand for. I do have a few relatively narrow (~150mm) boards that need trimming along the width too, but it feels like that's not the best place to start with a saw like this.
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Sep 12, 2018 09:34
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MrPete posted:Other than that, I think the clamps (FSNSZW) might come with the saw now? Otherwise they are OK but expensive for what they are really. Look around for clamps to fit mafell tracks too, that's the oem for bosch. Confirmed no clamps included.
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Sep 13, 2018 14:45
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Thanks for that, it’s all useful information. I’m considering getting a decent table saw at some point. Not now, because I have lots of work still to do and no real use for it yet, but when I’m finally done with the renovation I’ll still have a bunch of custom fittings and furnishings to either buy or build, like stairs, kitchen, bed. I’m still on the fence (haha) about it because it seems you have to put a quite a lot of money in to get a saw worthy of that work, and the mats aren’t cheap either. This is why I decided against it last time round.
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Sep 14, 2018 08:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:I would wager that none of the big manufacturers have any desire to change battery standards anytime soon. They'll resort to tricks like Dewalt's 60V pack before they abandon an existing platform these days, especially when they're all trying to make their systems cover as wide a range of tools as possible. Except in the case where they're already supporting two standards, e.g. makita ditched their small magazine-style batteries for their smaller drills and impact drivers so they could consolidate them into their larger pack standard. Good in some ways, but the whole point of those smaller batteries is to keep the small drills light and well-balanced.
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Sep 17, 2018 08:35
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sawing tracks
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Sep 18, 2018 19:55
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cakesmith handyman posted:I don't know how to reply to that? Is my sarcasm detector broken? Yes
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Sep 24, 2018 19:21
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AFewBricksShy posted:Is there some sort of a "hand powered" C&C machine? Basically something that I could stick a router bit on to and using wheels have it move around the piece very accurately? Or have the table move around a stationary bit? https://www.shapertools.com/
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Sep 28, 2018 13:20
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Scheppach Precisa 6 on sale second hand for £2k less than new. If only it wasn't in Wales.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCHEPPACH-PRECISA-6-0-415V-12INCH-PRECISION-TABLE-SAW/323388710262
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Sep 28, 2018 17:27
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I've been faffing about over the purchase of a table saw for, what, a year? Instead of continuing to deliberate I cut my holiday 2 days shorter which more than covers the cost of a DeWalt DW745. I went for a high-end job site saw rather than a low-end cabinet saw because it seemed like a better return on investment and flexibility for keeping the dang thing around the place.
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Mar 26, 2019 15:48
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:that is a sweet saw, be careful yessir, the only thing that's a bit of a concern is that people are saying the riving knife sits higher than the blade so you can't do rebate cuts with it on, but we'll see. Kickback is no joke.
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Mar 26, 2019 16:04
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Isn't that adjustable? I would assume so, this is purely based on amazon reviews so it may just turn out to be someone who can't read the manual.
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Mar 26, 2019 16:34
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JEEVES420 posted:What woodworker doesn't have scrap laying around? Seeing as I'm my own on-site carpenter right now, I have stacks and piles of it. However.. B-Nasty posted:Personally, I don't find any pleasure in hand-crafting artisanal push sticks/blocks; they're just a means to the end that I actually care about. I'd rather have an assortment of lightweight plastic versions than clunky plywood ones, especially for $17. I do agree with this. However, they're a lil more expensive for the same set in the UK (not much, but enough) and it'll take me five minutes to jigsaw a rough shape, after which I'll have a better idea of what does or doesn't work for me.
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Mar 26, 2019 21:58
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| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 21:00 |
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BraveUlysses posted:get a microjig The weird £50 plastic cube with knobs on?
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Mar 26, 2019 21:59
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