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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I see this a lot, which always makes me wonder - why doesn't the manufacturer just include something like this with the sander? Festools does...but its Festools and the belt sander is $750 so yeah. I always thought of Festools as overpriced "my cheaper version can do it just fine" until I started using them and of all the tools I would drop the cash on if I had it, would be their sanders with dust collection.
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Dec 30, 2018 07:23
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cakesmith handyman posted:The palm sander is crap, , don't know about the bigger sheet sander All battery powered sanders are crap.
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Jan 16, 2019 00:28
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AFewBricksShy posted:If anyone is interested in picking up a saw stop saw, do it before Friday, a price increase is going into effect on 2/1. I wonder if this has to do with being owned by Fe$tools or that under the Festools name a "cheap" flesh tech saw is being released.
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Jan 28, 2019 17:32
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If you have $75 extra pick up a spare break since those are going up too. Not saying you will trip it but if you do doesn't hurt to have a spare break on hand. Also make sure you look over the no cut list, anything conductive in the slightest can trigger the break.
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Jan 29, 2019 00:22
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B-Nasty posted:Bandsaws don't need no fancy electronical finger protection. If you do anything more than nick your finger with a bandsaw, you need to take up a safer craft, like pottery.  
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Jan 29, 2019 18:55
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B-Nasty posted:That probably hurt, but if you were using a table saw, you'd be hitchhiking with your right hand. I agree, if it wasn't 1/8" deep I would have just super glued it and went on my way. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Bandsaw=Bestsaw. Hard to hurt yourself unless you really try (I’m going to cut my whole hand off tomorrow, I’m sure) Laguna lt18 with a 1" resaw blade. Not fine tooth at all but makes a clean cut 
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Jan 29, 2019 21:45
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I love that all our pictures are all: "Who's the dumb rear end who stuck his finger in a saw?" 
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Jan 31, 2019 01:30
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Anyone else seeing that old video of the dude causing kickbacks on the tablesaw all over the internet today? Seems a bit odd the day before Sawstop raises their prices 
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Jan 31, 2019 19:13
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The video shows the guy "demonstrating" a kickback almost pulling his hand into the blade.
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Jan 31, 2019 19:36
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Mr. Mambold posted:In Ryobi review revisited and redacted hour, re: their 18v impact driver I thought was either crap or defective, it turns out the speed settings are also torque settings. So, its fine. I've never had an impact driver, so if that's standard, it's news to me. Thats not puke yellow, thats florescent green...Powermatic is the true puke yellow. edit: Like a 70's kitchen stained with nicotine
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Feb 12, 2019 06:11
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I have never heard of people color coordinating their garages or trying to match tool colors. Did this start with the whole "man cave" phenomenon?
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Feb 12, 2019 22:43
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cakesmith handyman posted:People have painted things from since they had paint, don't over think it. Fair enough.
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Feb 12, 2019 23:39
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Buy the Delta and get a shark guard they go on a nut behind the blade and work just as well as a riving knife. Only down side is you cant use it if you angle the blade. Don't use the micro jig, I have never heard good things about them. Also I don't know anybody who actually uses a blade guard, those things get in the way more than they prevent anything bad happening. I use a Powermatic PM66 5hp with a shark guard (sometimes) and have never had a problem with it.
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Feb 19, 2019 00:48
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Mr. Mambold posted:Or you can often get a single phase motor for the same price Or a converter for much less.
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Feb 19, 2019 16:22
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Dimes are tiny and hard to stand up on their own, I have always heard it as the nickle test.
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Feb 19, 2019 17:32
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Grumpwagon posted:Thanks, that's all great stuff! That's probably a good read on me that I don't mind fixing something up a bit, but I'm not going to be machining long lost parts. Little of both. Jet makes some great tools and some not so great ones. They are not known for table saws FWIW.
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Feb 20, 2019 16:29
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Oh yea I have over ear protection I use all the time. Think the particulate mask is good enough? Did you use something special for your aluminum? I thought you had to be really careful cutting some kind of metal but I forget which Cutting not really, welding galvanized will kill ya quick. Metal dust is also heavier than say saw dust so it doesn't really sit in the air. I have nothing to back this up so grain of salt and all that.
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Mar 1, 2019 00:26
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TheBananaKing posted:Anyone have any experience with cheap (~$30 or less) wood moisture meters? I've had a fairly substantial leak and I'd like to probe everything in the area to get a sense of how well it's drying and how far I need to go with my demolition. Cheap ones work but the leads tend to not get deep into the wood. They are great for drywall though. I have a harbor freight one and it works well enough.
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Mar 16, 2019 17:01
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make your own drawer organizers out of thin plywood. Put them tools to use!
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Mar 20, 2019 18:01
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:So I’m going to be replacing a lot of shoe molding in my house in the near future, so I imagine I will want to get a nail gun. Personally I hate electric nail guns. They never have enough punch and when the battery gets a bit low its even less. There is nothing more annoying than a half seated nail from a nail gun. Air power all the way, Give me that pft tst PSI punch. FWIW my cheapo HF nail gun has been abused to hell and back and still going strong 10 years later.
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Mar 22, 2019 16:19
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AFAIK that is pretty standard on all tables with a riving knife. You just take them out to do rebate cuts. Make a proper push stick. There are several designs out there but you want one that contacts the board across the top, not just a notch stick that pushes the back. Downward force on the piece will help prevent kickbacks. Something like this 
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Mar 26, 2019 19:14
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B-Nasty posted:Just pick up a push stick set like this one: https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71009-Safety-Package-5-Piece/dp/B00LPR5I1I those rubber grip flat bottom ones are not meant to be used to push the wood. The rubber will slip (I have seen it) not to mention get worn out making it more prone to slip. the little notch stick is a guide stick or push stick for bandsaws, I wouldn't trust one as a push stick on a table saw at all. What woodworker doesn't have scrap laying around? And a sheet of plywood is like $10, you should always have at least one in the shop to make jigs, shims, push sticks, etc. The most common cause of a kickback is downward pressure on the back of the board when it is not fully on the table causing it to rise in the blade.
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Mar 26, 2019 20:28
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:This is my fancy phallic push stick. I made it in three minutes and it cost $0 and it works great. Exactly, it doesn't have to be fancy and doesn't take more than a few minutes with a jigsaw. the flat tops are for jointer/sander control. I use these on the jointer for the flip down catches but if the stock is too thin, 2 of them with good amount of downward force works. https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIP-BLOC...122766233&psc=1 Micro jigs are crazy expensive and overly complex IMO.
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Mar 26, 2019 22:23
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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3247565 This the knob?
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Apr 8, 2019 17:39
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3rding the get a corded router. There is no reason to get cordless.
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Apr 12, 2019 05:45
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dyne posted:Well, not as a your only router. I have a cordless trim router that's always just set up with a round over or chamfered bit. It's nice not having to deal with a cord for quick edge treatment. My trim router is corded but I am  and have always used corded power tools so I don't get the need for cordless (except drill/drivers). I have the same feelings about lawn equipment; cordless? Stick a motor on it.
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Apr 12, 2019 23:28
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Bob Mundon posted:Not as cheap as when Lowe's was clearancing them out but still just dropped. Are these any good? Tight on space in my garage so the folding is pretty appealing, but not sure at what cost that comes. How much space is it actually saving? I don't know anything about that model but it feels like it wouldn't hold angles, in the long run, with unnecessary folding points.
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Apr 17, 2019 05:22
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Tres Burritos posted:Is something like this a really terrible idea? The filters are rated to 125 psi and my compressor only goes up to 116, so it checks out to me. Probably not OSHA approved but safe? moisture traps go on the outlet so it wouldn't effect the compressor safety at all. It might lower your PSI at the end of the hose though. Also where does that guy live that he gets a gallon of water out of a 20 gallon compressor? Are Husky compressors just poo poo?
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Apr 25, 2019 18:26
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Tres Burritos posted:What if I put a trap like that between the compressor and a tank? I bought some harbor freight tanks and the drain situation on them is sub-optimal. I was hoping I could dry the air between the compressor and the tanks so that they don't just explode one day because they drain lovely. Is that super dumb? If you have a ton of moisture then the traps are good, if not then don't worry about it. Just drain your tanks after every use. I have a HF compressor that has been running strong for something like 12 years. But I don't have any moisture issues. I also just realized I didn't drain it last night and we have had a ton of rain past few days 
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Apr 25, 2019 19:10
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why are you pre drilling for nails? Doesn't defeat the purpose/hold of a nail?
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May 13, 2019 16:25
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Jaded Burnout posted:Even when they're designed to balance well you're still lifting more weight, which leads to faster arm fatigue, which leads to decreased stability, no? which leads to bigger arm muscles. Work out while your working!
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May 23, 2019 19:50
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I picked up a cordless reciprocating saw to cut down some trees and it took all 4 of my 2.0Ah 20v batteries to finish my yard. Would a 5Ah battery last 1.5 batteries longer? I hate changing batteries but the yard is too big to drag an extension cord around and cuts too small to require a chainsaw.
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May 23, 2019 19:59
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8 gallon compressor and finish nailer will run you less than $200, only way to do trim IMO. The electric finishing nailers I have used were under powered half the time and nothing more frustrating than having to finish a half driven nail from a nail gun. Besides its nice to get that "psst pah" breeze on your face from an air gun when your hot.
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May 30, 2019 21:28
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I use a 10 year old Harbor Freight 8 gallon compressor and my nail guns are from around that same year too. Ran the compressor with a leak for a while so it never actually kicked off when I used it, I have dragged that thing around all over the place, and have never touched the oil. Nail gun spent a season outside in the rain and is covered in rust. Put a new regulator and hose on the compressor and that nail gun has never failed to fired. Both still work great to this day. I abuse the poo poo out of my tools and never fear the cheap stuff. I can't speak for China to UK sourced stuff though.
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May 30, 2019 23:38
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Jaded Burnout posted:Picked up the compressor yesterday and some accessories arrived today, so I've spent a few minutes refreshing my memory on how everything works. Get a couple 2x4s and go to town with the nail gun. Get it out of your system before you start work otherwise you will put 3(0) nails where 1 is needed.
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Jun 3, 2019 17:27
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Butch Cassidy posted:Makita's bumped up the list just behind a second string trimmer. Ryobi released the magic blue smoke while ripping a scrap board to level one wall of a raised garden bed, today. Was a pretty chill moment with Galactic streaming on the boombox. Grabbed my wife's to finish the cut because I wasn't feeling the handsaw and certainly not laying out a cord to haul out the proper circular saw for 18 more inches. Should have started with the proper circular saw  On Circular saw talk, my corded Skill saw is choking on 2" MCA soaked pine. Thought it was a dull blade but even with a new one it will stop spinning the blade (motor still spins). I am making the cuts using a speed square as a guide but wouldn't doubt if I am binding it a bit + wet wood. Question is, is the blade stopping but not the motor bad? Is it some kind of anti kick feature?
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Jun 4, 2019 18:34
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I am supporting the cut off with one hand while holding the speed square at the same time, saw in other hand with board supported on something. I wouldn't doubt I am flexing the cut off side on some cuts. These are ground contact pressure treated 2x6s still wet to the touch from the MCA (nasty poo poo to work with). I was more curious about the motor still spinning when the blade isn't as I can't recall ever having this saw bind up before. Interesting feature if it is designed to do that, I will have to look at the model number and do some research.
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Jun 4, 2019 20:24
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Any air related tool it is good practice to take apart all the fittings, teflon tape the threads, and put it back together. I have yet to see something from a factory not have some kind of leak.
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Jun 7, 2019 19:27
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If the threads spacing is good just Teflon tape them and don't worry about tapers or anything. Unless you plan to be unscrewing and swapping quick disconnects, once it's on and there is no leaking it's nothing to worry about. Should I bring up the differences in quick disconnects? Industrial, automotive, and ARO. 
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Jun 9, 2019 16:32
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tangy yet delightful posted:Anyone have a drill bit box preference? My current set are old, half broken, half dull. I'm considering just getting whatever Milwaukee puts out because it would match my impact driver bit set. Any impassioned pleas in another direction? At this point I'm also figuring I'll wait for father's day sales. I have a set of Milwaukee carbide bits for my metal lathe and like 4 harbor freight titanium sets for everything else. At $10 a set of 50 who cares if you dull or break one just grab the next. Pick up a new set when on sale or with 20% coupon. In other words if there are certain sizes you use often get one or two good ones and cheapo ones for the less used.
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Jun 10, 2019 06:16
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