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Hubis posted:Thank you. This is what I needed to be told. Seriously, I've been using a Ryobi TS for a couple years and have never been able to figure out how to use it in a way that feels safe, effective, or accurate. I just got a new Delta 36-725 and it's a completely different experience. Everything about the Ryobi TS is garbage. If you've got a good table saw that you use a lot, getting rid of the miter saw might be a better idea, since with a nice crosscut sled the table saw is probably just as good, if not better for crosscuts than the miter saw. I still like having a miter saw, especially for rough 2x4-style construction projects.
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Jan 10, 2020 22:48
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Knock the loose dirt off with a brush, use a damp rag to get the rest of it. Scrub with saddle soap, let it dry, then buff it off with a dry rag, then apply some conditioner. Mink oil is fine. I like Huberd's shoe grease (might darken the color some) or Obenauf's.
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Mar 12, 2020 17:20
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I. M. Gei posted:I would LOOOOOOVE to have a miter saw, but all of the ones with the features I want (dual bevel, sliding, stand included, laser guide, preferably a 12” blade) are way outside my price range at the moment. If you want to get into serious woodworking you're probably going to want a table saw. Since I've gotten a decent table saw, the only thing I want to use my miter saw for is cutting long boards to length (often, rough length). A table saw with a crosscut sled/a good miter gauge will do exact and repeatable cuts much better. I have a $90 Ryobi miter saw and a shop-built stand and it's basically everything I want. It would be nice to get a slider so I could handle more width, but I can always cut rough length with a circular saw or jigsaw and then get precise length on the table saw.
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Apr 7, 2020 20:34
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I want to get an air-powered 18ga brad nailer and probably a 23ga pin nailer as well. Is there such a thing as "good brands" for these? I have a brad nailer/stapler from Harbor Freight that I only use for invisible stuff because it leaves a staple-shaped indent, and like 20% of nails go in bent. Weirdly, the nailer/stapler is like $20, but a dedicated HF brad nailer is like $60. Any recommendations for these?
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Apr 23, 2020 21:28
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I'm a DIYer and hobbyist woodworker, and the Ryobi stuff is totally fine (except the table saw, do not under any circumstances buy a Ryobi table saw) so I'd rather spend half as much money and have to replace it in 5 years. I'm not on a job site, I'm not putting 40 hours of wear on these tools. I charge my batteries like once a month.
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May 9, 2020 17:11
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I just got an oscillating multitool for the first time and have already used it like 5 times why haven’t I always had one?! I hear everyone say this, and then the jobs they say are so much easier with it are things I've never had to do.
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May 14, 2020 17:24
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I've never used an angle grinder and I really don't want to. I don't feel the same fear with a router though. I feel like I might gently caress up my piece, but not my parts.
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May 19, 2020 08:16
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Agreed, for what you're talking about (planter boxes, fence stuff) you're probably going to be fine with a miter saw and maybe a circular saw. Miter saws are great at making crosscuts (across a long board) and, well, miter cuts. Circular saws are useful for cutting down plywood or other sheet goods, and with proper support and an edge guide can make acceptable rip cuts in solid lumber. There's all sorts of other stuff you can do with a circular saw if you're comfortable with it and willing to do some cleanup by hand. I've made a lot of planter boxes with just a miter saw and a drill for screwing it together. An impact driver helps it go faster, but it's not strictly necessary. I've never built a fence or a gate, but you shouldn't need a table saw for that. If you can get what you need to get done with lumber from HD/Lowe's/etc crosscut to length/cut at a miter, you don't need a table saw. edit: get clamps, at least one square (probably a speed square or a 12" combination square) and something you can use a long straight edge, like a good level
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May 29, 2020 07:08
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DreadLlama posted:Decks are just frames and you build decks with screws. Decks aren't under anything like the same loads as houses.
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May 31, 2020 20:00
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Bioshuffle posted:I need a drill for just all around usage around the home. I don't anticipate doing a lot of projects. What's a good starter drill? Will I see any difference if I use a Dewalt drill instead of a Ryobi? I like my Ryobi drill just fine, I do average around-the-house stuff with it as well as weekend hobbyist woodworking. The battery platform is also cheap and they have a ton of useful-around-the-house tools for it (dustbuster, weed whacker, etc)
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Jul 17, 2020 22:36
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Orvin posted:It’s time for me to start buying some cordless tools. My wife just ordered an outdoor playhouse for my kids, and putting it together with a regular screwdriver has my hand already cramping up. I figure I will be greatly annoyed at trying to use my corded drill as a screwdriver that much. They don't have an electric screwdriver on the 18V One+ battery platform, because it would defeat the purpose of a small tool like that. But if you want a cordless drill, which I think is good to have around for all sorts of home stuff, their 18V drill is perfectly fine and cheap. The old batteries were NiCad I think, and they were garbage, but the new (like last 10 years or so) ones are LiIon like everything else. Same form factor and voltage though, so they're compatible with old tools and vice versa. You might consider the drill and impact driver, which they sell as a bundle and is often on sale. It's very useful to have a pilot hole bit in the drill and be able to pre-drill and then drive screws without changing bits.
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Jul 19, 2020 17:52
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Elem7 posted:Impact drivers tend to run a little smaller than drills as well so there's that. One issue with Ryobi's cheap entry level drills is they're quite large compared to most modern equivalents, not really enough to be a problem in most cases but if that's really a concern for you it's something to watch for. The first drill I ever had was a Black & Decker 12V NiCad and after a year or so it needed a full charge to run for like 10 minutes of light use.
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Jul 19, 2020 20:20
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Any recommendations for a high quality hand saw? I'll be mostly using it for crosscuts on hardwood when I don't feel like using the powered miter saw. I bought a ~$20 Japanese Ryoba saw for basically this reason and I love it.
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Jul 20, 2020 00:50
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I bought a Delta 36-725 after Christmas, I'm very happy with it. It took a bit of fiddling to get the blade aligned, but for the price point, it's pretty unbeatable. If you have the space for it, I highly recommend it. My shop is very small (~9'x20'), so the table saw is basically the center of it, and it really only just fits. If you really need the jobsite size, I've heard good things about the DeWalt jobsite saw. Avoid the Ryobi at all costs. I thought that thing was going to kill me every time I turned it on.
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Sep 8, 2020 19:15
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I. M. Gei posted:Cool, thanks. Something like that corner cat is going to be your best bet for tight spaces. If that won't fit, you're going to have to hand sand. I don't know what you're trying to do, but "belt sander" and "tight spaces" usually aren't in the same sentence. Belt sanders are for quickly removing lots of material when you can easily move them around.
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Oct 8, 2020 08:40
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FogHelmut posted:It's a good idea to keep extra levels in various rooms around the house to make sure everything stays true, and you can't discount level apps for use in a pinch. This is assuming there's even a single thing in my house that's true, square, plumb, or flat.
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Oct 12, 2020 16:10
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So a while ago, before I had any idea what I was doing, I inherited a 12" Ryobi drill press. I used it a little, but it's mostly sat on the floor. Now that I'm doing more woodworking, I want to get it back up and running smoothly. It runs, but the handle for the speed adjustment is broken off:  While it's running, I can turn the "speed adjust hub" and adjust the speed between about 1300 RPM and 2800 RPM, but the manual recommends dropping the speed down to 500 for a 1 5/8" hole in wood. (Side note: is it really not recommended to use Forstner bits bigger than that?) I'm not sure I could get it that low with a handle, but I'm willing to try it. I guess my question is: how can I get the snapped off threaded part of the handle out? I can probably fashion a handle with a bolt or threaded rod and a shop-made knob. Alternatively, how could I drill and tap another hole in the hub there so I could put a handle in somewhere else? I know basically nothing about metalworking, but I have woodworking tools. Also, what sort of other maintenance should I do on a drill press that's been sitting mostly idle for probably about a decade? What do I need to lubricate, and with what lubricants?
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Oct 20, 2020 23:17
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SpartanIvy posted:Now I want to see Ryobi brand Velcro shoes Problem is you need a 1" wide hole in your heel so the battery can fit.
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Nov 3, 2020 00:07
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Listen, I don't know why it's SO HARD to get a recommendation for DECENT yak shears that won't break when shaving a very thick yak pelt, for under $300. I drove six hours to the yak supply store, why can't you just tell me which yak shears to buy. I need to finish my fence TODAY.
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Jan 5, 2021 18:28
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The only air tools I own are a brad nailer and crown stapler, but I'm primarily focused on woodworking.
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Jan 17, 2021 19:49
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SEKCobra posted:Guys, should I buy an air compressor? I just got a (small) rented garage and I am trying to figure out what I should put in there. Will I be using it, or is it just a waste of space and money? (Assuming I probably won't be using air-powered tools). What are you going to use it for? You're not using air tools, do you expect you're going to be filling tires or blowing something out frequently? It's up to you, but if you don't have a regular use for it, it's just gonna take up space. I have a compressor for air nailers, but the fact that I need to plug in and fill the compressor before I can use an air tool makes me not want to use it most of the time.
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Feb 6, 2021 10:40
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I had a miter saw on the floor (unplugged), tripped over it, pushed it down so the blade was exposed, and fell into a tooth of the blade with my shin. I still have no idea how I did it, but it kind of bruise-gouged my shin through jeans and I still have a scar/discoloration a year and a half later. I don't even think it bled though?
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Apr 13, 2021 17:35
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I have the Ridgid brad nailer and I've never had it jam or anything. But I also don't use it an awful lot.
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Apr 15, 2021 01:22
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I think my miter saw has a laser that takes AAAs, I've never used it. I think what it would be good for is quickly lining up against a pencil line. So in a situation where you're cutting up a bunch of framing lumber or something where 1/32" isn't a big deal, it probably lets you go faster, but otherwise I wouldn't bother. There's not an awful lot of differences between miter saws though, so get whatever fits your budget and has the features you want.
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Apr 15, 2021 04:01
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nitsuga posted:Is the 40V Ryobi String Trimmer as great as it looks? I don’t need any other lawn tools right now, but I do want a string trimmer, and it looks like kind of a home run price wise. Could see myself getting a mower if my Snapper ever gave up the ghost too. My neighbor has it and I've borrowed it a few times. No complaints, it did the job fine.
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May 1, 2021 15:07
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There's some broken shatterproof glass in my alley, which I'd like to get picked up. I have a big Ridgid shop vac, would that handle it? Should I take the filter out first?
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Jun 4, 2021 19:32
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FCKGW posted:Got a new compound slider miter for my birthday, hopefully replace my 10+ year old 10" fixed Ryobi and my 7 1/4" sliding Kobalt Can this be stored so that the rails aren't sticking out the back? I need everything on casters in my tiny shop, so I can/will pull it out from the wall, but the extra depth is what's kept me from getting a slider. It's that or spend twice as much on the delta/metabo/bosch that have the whole glide thing.
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Aug 6, 2021 07:06
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Literally A Person posted:Anything but those loving "quick-grip" style shits. Never had one that reliably lasted more than a year. Like the Irwin Quick Grip ones? I use those and the DeWalt equivalents all the time, never had a problem with them. They're a little bulkier than F-style clamps so sometimes they're less than ideal to get in a tight spot, but otherwise they're great.
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Aug 13, 2021 18:10
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Johnny Truant posted:Thanks for the miter saw tips, y'all. Any thoughts on sliding/compound/compound sliding? Compound means you can both tilt the head (roll) to make bevel cuts and turn the head (yaw) to make miter cuts. For complex molding jobs that can be useful, but I've never had to make a compound cut myself. The sliding feature means you can cut significantly wider boards, but the sliding rails stick out the back on all but the most expensive models, so it takes up more space.
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Aug 30, 2021 19:22
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canyoneer posted:Doing baseboards in my house with a 10" Ryobi slider was so much easier than using the 10" non-sliding Hitachi. This was because I was cutting 4 1/2" baseboards though, so I needed the slide unless I wanted to flip the piece over and try to match the cut (NOT FUN). Weird, I can cut 2x6 on my 10" non-sliding Ryobi (at 90, not at 45).
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Aug 31, 2021 15:22
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I have the Ryobi Dustbuster and it whips rear end.
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Sep 1, 2021 03:52
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Alarbus posted:But it can be! Seriously considering de-converting my 7CF keezer and just using it as a freezer, then buying a 10-14CF freezer to convert to a keezer and using my 5CF freezer (which has food in it now) as a fermentation chamber. Then I can use my 4CF mini fridge as a dedicated seltzer kegerator. I have too many refrigerators.
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Sep 3, 2021 22:43
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NomNomNom posted:Biggest problem with a keezer is that moisture builds up and leads to mold inside. Mine mostly freezes, so I just have to take everything out and defrost now and then.
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Sep 4, 2021 01:54
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I. M. Gei posted:Why did you have to show me this website? Why must you make me want things I cannot afford? I have the original one (not the T2) but I love mine. Heads up, Ridgid is now branding what appears to be the exact same saw painted orange as the R4560: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-10-in-Contractor-Table-Saw-with-Cast-Iron-Top-R4560/315635451, in case you have a color preference, or one's on sale, or you have a gift card or something.
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Sep 14, 2021 21:33
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FISHMANPET posted:Ah poo poo I'm gonna need some clamps! Harbor Freight clamps are actually decent, and they're cheap as hell.
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Sep 16, 2021 19:58
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Sockser posted:Yup yup that’s the guy Metabo HPT has one now, and Ridgid is selling a rebranded copy of the Delta now.
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Oct 4, 2021 21:42
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I tend to buy 1lb boxes of screws so I don't need storage for a million larger boxes, and every box comes with a bit. I can't spin around and throw a rock without hitting a star drive bit.
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Oct 14, 2021 23:40
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heffray posted:Ryobi or Ridgid stuff from https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/ has been fine for me (18V brushless circ saw, Ridgid thickness planer, etc). Same. I've bought some recon Ryobi batteries as well for $20 a pop, haven't noticed a difference other than they've got the word RECON melted into the casing. I assume they replaced the 18650s.
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Oct 15, 2021 05:05
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Got a new-in-box Ridgid belt/spindle sander for $120 from a friend who's trying to get rid of a bunch of their dad's stuff after he passed. No idea how long it had been sitting there. The only thing that was weird is that most of the bottom of the tool (and sneaking up the sides a little bit) there was a bunch of machine oil. Like, it was pooled in the bag the tool was packaged in. I just wiped it off with shop rags. I'm assuming that was just there to protect parts from rusting/etc in transit, right? I don't need to worry that the motor isn't properly lubricated because all the motor juice came out after a couple years of sitting in a garage? I've just never seen that much oil on a tool before, especially one that's painted stamped steel for the top and plastic for the body. It runs fine, for what it's worth.
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Oct 17, 2021 01:53
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
The only thing the manual says is: quote:Lubrication
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Oct 17, 2021 18:06
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